ameyam

Being new to gas and coming from glow airplanes, everyone specifies to use a nyrod throttle linkage to connect the throttle to the servo. You know, something like this

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFU90&P=ML

But I am personally yet to undertsand how this works. I mean, if is there a nylon rod instead of the regular throttle push rod and do the metal push rods screw in both sides? If so, how flexible does it need to be? The throttle linkage on my Phoenix Extra 330s with Dle20 is fairly straight with little or no bend. Can someone explain this system?

Ameyam

repinfl

My Feedback: (40)

I still use metal push rods for throttle BUT I use a nylon clevis NOT metal to connect to the throttle lever on the engine.
With 72 mhz there was a school of thought that any metal to metal conections would cause RF interferance but I do not think
that is such a problem with the 2.4 systems. If you use the nyrod it comes with a short section of all thread that screws
into the the inter nyrod and allows you to use a clevis but again they are supplied with a metal clevis!!! For me the nyrod
is great where the linkage is not straight.

ameyam

So the nylon rod interconnecting rod between the metal bits at both ends?. Actually, I was of the same impression, so I had ordered 12" 4-40 pushrods with the intention of putting ball links both sides. But I have two issues

1) The throttle servo is next to the rudder servo. This is a 60-90 glow airplane that I am converting to gas. So any possibility of radio intererence must be avoided. I am using a 2.4ghz setup

2) The 12" pushrods are not long enough to reach from the throttle to the servo. I could try a coupler or brass collet or something. But it the nyrod is required, thats what I will need to get

Ameyam

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Your Phoenix has tons of room, so get creative.

Make a new throttle servo mount up near where the fuel tank used to go (while still maintaining access to it),
then mount the fuel tank back closer to the wing tube. Should knock off several inches for the Nyrod (Sullivan)....
...........or 4-40 threaded rod & ball links.

K-Bob

My Feedback: (1)

For a smaller gasser I would install 256 all thread ( I believe they supply them in the package) in each end of the inner nyrod then use 256 ball links at both ends. Nice and simple with no binding. I would never use plastic clevises.

dirtybird

My Feedback: (5)

Its simply an old wives tail that you cannot use a metal push rod for the throttle control even when using 72PPM. What you need to do is avoid a metal coupling at the throttle end. There is no reason to avoid plastic quick links as very little thrust is involved.

ameyam

I have all-threaded 4-40 pushrods with matching ball links. I think the ball links will serve the purpose as there is no metal to metal contact with them- the bit that you screw onto the rod is plastic so there is no metal to metal contact.

On second thoughts, if I simply get some scrap nylon inter-rod from a fellow flier, say 2-3", then screw in 2-56 on both sides with ball links, will that also serve the purpose? Basically, I am trying to avoid ordering internationally due to the expense

Ameyam

ameyam

Will this also serve the purpose if get 2-56 ball links locally?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK057&P=9

The Sullivian ones are quite expensive to ship (dont know why)

Ameyam

karolh

Yes that will work quite nicely.

Karol

Ernie Misner

You might notice a little change in throttle trim with different temperatures using the nylon rod as compared to steel....

Ernie

TomCrump

Or you may not. I use nyrods for throttle, in most of my models. I've never experienced this problem.

ec121

My Feedback: (2)

I like the ball links because they allow me to drill the pushrod hole a little off and the throttle arm doesn't bind because of the angle.

spaceworm

The bolt-through ball links also will not come off like the snap-on kind might.

Richard

ameyam

I am thinking just moving the throttle servo forward a bit and using standard pushrod with ball link both sides. Should I consider a EZ connector on the throttle servo- you know the one with the screw that tightens on to the pushrod?

Ameyam

spaceworm

No, I would not use that kind of pushrod connector for any application. I recommend using bolt-through 2-56 (or 4-40) ball links both ends.

Sincerely, Richard

dogshome

#2:- Definitely don't use the screw clamp connector.

One thing about straight pushrods and engines:- they work fine with steel balls (heli style ball links) but the brass ball type (sold for aircraft) fret and wear fairly quickly. Useable, but not ideal.

Balls of Steel are what you need!

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

I have had that problem, this stuff is very sesitive to temp changes despite the BS written on the package, and the longer the length of nyrod, the worse it gets. I now splice in 2-56 rod and just use a small 2-3 inches piece whe I need the extra flexability at the servo and throttle end.

Ernie Misner

I'm thinking some folks might live in a more temperate climate without the temperature swings.

Ernie

ameyam

I sourced my LHS and got two things / issues

1) I got 2-56 pushrods and ball links for the same. I am told that 2-56 is good enough for throttle but I am concerned with this ball link

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK090&P=7

I think the ball link is too delicate for the job and they dont have anything else in that size. They dont have a bolt through ball link.

2) I was also told that this type of connector on the throttle servo horn will do

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAHE6&P=ML

I do have nylon nut for this connector so it wont come off the horn but I am concerned that the screw-down will not be sufficient grip. I have used these aplenty on glow planes without problems

Please suggest

Ameyam

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Only a couple of input points for this subject.

1) Never, ever use any type of E-Z connector on a critical component of a gas engine powered plane. That only invites disaster.

2) Instructions for using a nyrod are included in every package. Read them and continue accordingly.

ameyam

Well, then should I simply put a z-bend with a retainer on the pushrod on the throttle servo horn side? The avoiding metal to metal contact part is met by attaching the 2-56 ball link at the throttle side. I am still concerned that the ball link is snap on and not bolt through

Look, dont get me wrong here. If I can get it, I will use the nyrod connection. There a couple of problems

1) It costs more to get the connection that anything I can compare. Ordering through tower, if I use UPS shipping, it will cost nothing less than $50 shipping for a $7 item and if I selece USPS there in no guarantee when or if it will come

2) http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFU90&P=ML

isint available till mid Oct

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFU92&P=ML

is but so far no one has been able to tell me difference between them.

I have in hand 2 Nos 12" 4-40 fully threaded push rods which are just too short. I have 2 Nos 30" 2-56 pushrods but they have one side threading and I dont know how to thread the other. I an not sure regarding 2-56 threaded couplers either because they require soldering (these are available locally, do I use simple electrical solder wire?). Also, the available 2-56 ball links are snap on (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK090&P=7) and not bolt through.

3) Locally available pushrods are in mm (2mm, 3mm etc) and there are no ball links available locally in mm sizes.

The difficulties due to non-availability of the parts is basically driving me up the wall

Ameyam

spaceworm

A "Z" bend on the servo end of the pushrod is fine. The bolt through from Tower hobbies of the size and type we have been talking about is Tower stock number LXD912 (Dubro part number 2135). If you click on the double ended ball link on your referenced page and then click on possible substitutions, you will see the single ended Dubro ball links I reference here.

Follow the nyrod instructions as suggested above.

Good luck, it really is not rocket science[8D]

Sincerely, Richard

Valve floater

Just make sure you don`t use all metal to metal. Like adding an extra antenna you don`t want. Serious radio interference.Make sure you do a radio test with the engine running and walk over 100 yds from the plane. Ask me how i know? been there. Almost lost a plane to it. Going to 2.4 was like night and day to help on the intererence issue with me on gas engines.

Ernie Misner

Didn't you consder that the chatter from those floating valves could have been a major contributor to the RF interferance?

Thanks,

Ernie Misner

Valve floater

LOL. yeah i made that name when i flew only Saito 4-strokes. I would lean it out too much and try to float the valves.