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What IBEC to buy?

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Old 02-20-2014, 12:50 AM
  #126
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Given the original question presumes IBEC, my response is Tech-Aero Ultra IBEC. Simply no better solution available. Noise isolation, adjustable voltage, remote switchable (via assigned channel), fail-safe, high visible LED status indicator (I chose blue), and reliable.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:09 AM
  #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marksp View Post
Given the original question presumes IBEC, my response is Tech-Aero Ultra IBEC. Simply no better solution available. Noise isolation, adjustable voltage, remote switchable (via assigned channel), fail-safe, high visible LED status indicator (I chose blue), and reliable.
I agree.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:21 AM
  #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
It's a single solid state device, a battery and mechanical switch would be way more prone to failure.

I'm sure Ed will correct me if I'm wrong but the IBEC also acts as a voltage regulator. As long as the input voltage is 6V the output is 5.5 no matter what the current draw from the ignition. With nicad and switch, I would expect to see maybe .5V drop from idle to full throttle. We all know that the ignition current draw is not a constant.
That's correct, the Ultra IBEC has built in voltage regulation. DIrtybird's assumption that an engine would be hard to start is incorrect.
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:37 AM
  #129
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tech aero has a jumper you can change form 5.1 volts to 6 something volts depends on what you do with the jumper i just leave mine on the 5.1 volts and i run A123 flight packs
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:43 AM
  #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJRCFLYER2 View Post
That's correct, the Ultra IBEC has built in voltage regulation. DIrtybird's assumption that an engine would be hard to start is incorrect.
You are reading the average voltage. Get yourself an oscilloscope and look at the pulse. It will be less than 5.5 at the point of firing I can guarantee it.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:51 PM
  #131
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And how would this be any different then running a 4 cell Nicad? I always get a kick out of guys who want to set up elaborate tests involving oscilloscopes, frequency generators, network analyzers, synthesizes ect and then argue with guys who have been using the item being tested in the real environment for years with great success. Yes there will be a voltage drop as the coil discharges and that will be true no matter what you are powering the system with. Running the system with a regulated power source will give the most stable input voltage available. I hate when people argue a point through mis direction.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:58 PM
  #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apalsson View Post
The very best Ignition Battery Eliminator is a 4-cell 1,000mAh - 2,000mAh NiMH or NiCd battery for your ignition (assuming it's a Rcexl).

Pros:
Simple
Cheap
Less prone to failures
Works every time

Cons:
Doesn't feed the gadget drive of the owner
Less likely to cause a situation where a new plane is required

I go one better & use the same for my Rx.

1000mah will fly a CH-Ignitions single cylinder module for over 1 hour. I alternate charging the Rx battery & Ign battery between flights.


K.I.S.S.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:11 PM
  #133
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This thread is absolutely hilarious. And near 100% is based on opinion, the one fact that is most important is neglected (The individual). Who gives a rats rectum about anyones background, simply put the T-A IBEC works very reliably, whether we need one or not is up for interpretation. But guys feel so strongly they are wishing to take it off site to argue their point, hilarious. I personally use them because I can, I want to, I like what they offer, and so on!!!!!!
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:17 PM
  #134
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Man Ace, if you were in front of me I would give you a High five and buy you a beer.
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:30 PM
  #135
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Got that right!!
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:36 PM
  #136
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I fly with a 3500 Mah NiCad 6V ( 5 cell ) pack with my Tech-Aero IBEC. I aways charge to peak and check the Mah. I flew three 10 minute full flights and wrung it out. I came home and topped my battery off. It took 350 Mah to top off the battery. That equals about 115 +/- Mah per 10 minute flight. I could safely use the 50% rule for total battery capacity usage and literally fly my 50cc Ultimate for 180 minutes. That is 3 full hours of fun on a 3500 Mah pack and still carry 1800 Mah for the 2.4 Ghz flight system. WAY more than enough and proof of very low power Mah consumption. Double that for a twin and you still get 90 minutes of thrills and still use only 50% total battery capacity. That is a lot of time in the air and a lot of gas through your engine. I am glad that I use Lipo's in my Tx though! I think with the new high discharge Lipo's there is no reason to not use them on ignitions. Especially with the 50C and up Lipos.

Last edited by Speedy-Gonzales; 02-20-2014 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:14 PM
  #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acerc View Post
This thread is absolutely hilarious. And near 100% is based on opinion, the one fact that is most important is neglected (The individual). Who gives a rats rectum about anyones background, simply put the T-A IBEC works very reliably, whether we need one or not is up for interpretation. But guys feel so strongly they are wishing to take it off site to argue their point, hilarious. I personally use them because I can, I want to, I like what they offer, and so on!!!!!!

Two thumbs up .......with a Beer Have one T-A IBEC and two Wike and have never had trouble in 3 years.........I like them.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:37 PM
  #138
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I have never recorded an inflight "brown out" low volt 3.6 volt occurrence using the setup I have now with 2.4 Ghz system. Not even close. I even decided on a whim one day to go out for a few flights without charging from the previous day. I know .....a true risk , but I checked my batts over real good with a load meter before flying and put another three flights up without an event recorded in the flight data log. With the JR and Spektrum receivers, if you have an in flight event, the satellites will be flashing showing that a signal failure has occurred.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:59 PM
  #139
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Just ordered Three. Thanks for all the perspective

Pete
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:51 PM
  #140
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Gort....Klatu....Varinga!!!
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:56 PM
  #141
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OK if you think this is hilarious and irrelevant why do you bother posting?.
I enjoy it because it shows to me that anyone that can manipulate a set of sticks proficiently thinks he know everything.
When yoiu draw current from a source, The voltage you get will depend on the internal resistance of the supply. A regulator will add to the internal resistance of the battery and will result in less voltage you can get. The regulator will control the voltage at other times but you dont need it then.The best regulator for your purpose is a simple diode. You can get one from radio shack for about $2.00. But you dont even need that if you use the battery the ignition was designed for.
If your objective is to impress everyone with how much money you can spend or how many pretty lights you have, I can't argue with that.
Bye
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:57 PM
  #142
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LOL,

I believe you mean "Klaatu barada nikto"

Pete
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:59 PM
  #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acerc View Post
This thread is absolutely hilarious. And near 100% is based on opinion, the one fact that is most important is neglected (The individual). Who gives a rats rectum about anyones background, simply put the T-A IBEC works very reliably, whether we need one or not is up for interpretation. But guys feel so strongly they are wishing to take it off site to argue their point, hilarious. I personally use them because I can, I want to, I like what they offer, and so on!!!!!!
From my viewpoint, it is just a normal model airplane thread. A fairly civil one at that. Maybe some popcorn and a beer are in order?
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Old 02-20-2014, 04:41 PM
  #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Truckracer View Post
From my viewpoint, it is just a normal model airplane thread. A fairly civil one at that. Maybe some popcorn and a beer are in order?
You know, that sounds like a preagnant idea.
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:21 PM
  #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtybird View Post
OK if you think this is hilarious and irrelevant why do you bother posting?.
I enjoy it because it shows to me that anyone that can manipulate a set of sticks proficiently thinks he know everything.
When yoiu draw current from a source, The voltage you get will depend on the internal resistance of the supply. A regulator will add to the internal resistance of the battery and will result in less voltage you can get. The regulator will control the voltage at other times but you dont need it then.The best regulator for your purpose is a simple diode. You can get one from radio shack for about $2.00. But you dont even need that if you use the battery the ignition was designed for.
If your objective is to impress everyone with how much money you can spend or how many pretty lights you have, I can't argue with that.
Bye
Ok well first off a lipoly battery has less internal resistance then a nicad. Second the regulator will level out the voltage as more current is needed. A nicad will just drop voltage as current demand goes up. A higher voltage battery with a diode will have the same issue. The IBEC sells for 45.00. A nicad and good quality switch will run just slightly less. In 15 years of flying gasoline engines I have seen more battery failures then ignition, regulator or switches so IMO removing one battery from the mix is a reliability upgrade. What else ya got Dirtybird?
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:22 PM
  #146
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I like these 2. Click on the deer. She's a cutie! I think Dirtybird is becoming agitated and needs some humor.
You ever hear the joke about the father explaining to his son the difference between theory and reality?
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:48 PM
  #147
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Don't forget I can turn my ignition on and off from the transmitter and DB can't!

.
Genius...Sheer Genius
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:09 PM
  #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtybird View Post
OK if you think this is hilarious and irrelevant why do you bother posting?.
I enjoy it because it shows to me that anyone that can manipulate a set of sticks proficiently thinks he know everything.
When yoiu draw current from a source, The voltage you get will depend on the internal resistance of the supply. A regulator will add to the internal resistance of the battery and will result in less voltage you can get. The regulator will control the voltage at other times but you dont need it then.The best regulator for your purpose is a simple diode. You can get one from radio shack for about $2.00. But you dont even need that if you use the battery the ignition was designed for.
If your objective is to impress everyone with how much money you can spend or how many pretty lights you have, I can't argue with that.
Bye
Those may be very true points of interest, but in your quest to be right at all cost you neglect to account for those that use batteries that would fry an average ign. All that you speak may be true but it is a real turn off to those looking for a simple answer (Yes or No) to a simple question. Therefore by your quest to be intellectually correct at all cost you neglect to take into account that most of us could care less about all that mumbo jumbo. If asked a simple question give a simple answer, if the one inquiring wants more they will ask.
As to why I post, well as I stated before-BECAUSE I CAN AND WANT TO AND I LIKE AGGREVATING THE AGGREVATORS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:12 PM
  #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy-Gonzales View Post
I like these 2. Click on the deer. She's a cutie! I think Dirtybird is becoming agitated and needs some humor.
You ever hear the joke about the father explaining to his son the difference between theory and reality?
And here I thought they were the same, damn you dad!!!
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:15 PM
  #150
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Everybody loves a great pilot, right up to the point where he starts telling you how great he is.
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