G62 idles but won't do much more
#28
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Riverton,
WY
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Oops[:@] your picture is a jump start unit NOT a full CDI conversion. Look at the mag coils on both engines one of them should be mounted upside down. Remove the prop hub on the reversed engine there should be 2 key ways in the flywheel. Without the upside down coil and retimed flywheel your timing is WAY OFF.
TKG
TKG
#30
My Feedback: (34)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Keller,
TX
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Just reading through and thought I would chime in. Recent experience with a Kault engine begs me to ask the questions. How old do you think these engines are and do they still have points for ignition firing? Thats all I got...Chiming out..
#31
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
My thought was they are talking about engines that came with CD or has been converted to CD Ignition................Points are a thing of the past!...........
Capt,n
Capt,n
#32
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hartland,
WI
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
OP here.
The pic included beforeis not my engine, but it is similar, in that it has a black coil mounted to the left side of the engine right under the cylinder, a Hall sensor, a too nice machined bracket to hold the sensor, and a smaller ignition box than I am used to seeing. The coil has a red wire that goes to the ignition unit, and the plug wire. The ignition unit has a black wire to ground, as I remember.
I remember this product you mention, a jump start unit, but I have no info about it.
The photo on the craftsman stoolbelow is a jump start engine, again, NOTmy engine, and mine does not have the mag coil you see in this pic. I only provided the other picto show how the carb was mounted. My engine does NOT have a mag coil. My carb is not mounted like this one, it is mounted like the other pic.
The second pic, which shows the rear of someone else's engine, is a dead ringer for my engine, carb and throttle linkage.
Sorry for the confusion, I was lazy and should have taken a pic of my engine. I'll try to do thatwhen I get home.
Rikk
The pic included beforeis not my engine, but it is similar, in that it has a black coil mounted to the left side of the engine right under the cylinder, a Hall sensor, a too nice machined bracket to hold the sensor, and a smaller ignition box than I am used to seeing. The coil has a red wire that goes to the ignition unit, and the plug wire. The ignition unit has a black wire to ground, as I remember.
I remember this product you mention, a jump start unit, but I have no info about it.
Look at the mag coils on both engines one of them should be mounted upside down.
The second pic, which shows the rear of someone else's engine, is a dead ringer for my engine, carb and throttle linkage.
Sorry for the confusion, I was lazy and should have taken a pic of my engine. I'll try to do thatwhen I get home.
Rikk
#35
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Somewhere,
DC
Posts: 9,825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
The black thing under the carb is from Horizon or B&B...sometimes the pulse passage is so close to the main hole the pulse leaks...Get a new gasket, check the block for cracks, and hot stuff the new gasket to the top surface of the black rotator block ..Pay attention the the edge of the pulse passage, it's less than 1/16 from the hole, that's where the leak is....Hot stuff that edge AFTER the block is mounted to the cylinder.Thought you said the carb bolts DIRECTLY to the cylinder ? All this conjecture would have been unnecessary if you had only said there was a black block under the carb....
#36
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hartland,
WI
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
There was an alarm going off in my head ... don't post this picture ...
The pictures were there to answer the person who was asking me about the carb being possibly rotated ... I just wanted to show how it was mounted, which is stock, I believe.
I do not have a jump start. There is no source coil.
My ignition module is bare aluminum. I can't get at it easily to read the words, but I THINK it was a C&H. I'll verify when I get home tonight.
Thanks to everyone for the support so far.
Ineed to develop some more information for you guys to chew on - at this point, I think we've identified all the rocks to turn over, and now it falls to the technician (me) to turn them over. Let's see what happens when I swap carbs.
The pictures were there to answer the person who was asking me about the carb being possibly rotated ... I just wanted to show how it was mounted, which is stock, I believe.
I do not have a jump start. There is no source coil.
My ignition module is bare aluminum. I can't get at it easily to read the words, but I THINK it was a C&H. I'll verify when I get home tonight.
Thanks to everyone for the support so far.
Ineed to develop some more information for you guys to chew on - at this point, I think we've identified all the rocks to turn over, and now it falls to the technician (me) to turn them over. Let's see what happens when I swap carbs.
#39
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Riverton,
WY
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
OK different engine than picture. So we're back to pumping the carb and timing.
On timing remember to time the actual spark not the location of the magnet. Checking the magnet is OK for a ballpark thing.
A bad pump port is about as good as a blocked gasket in making things bad. Its very rare but I have seen junk in a brand new Walbro carb, so switching the carb is a good plan.
On timing remember to time the actual spark not the location of the magnet. Checking the magnet is OK for a ballpark thing.
A bad pump port is about as good as a blocked gasket in making things bad. Its very rare but I have seen junk in a brand new Walbro carb, so switching the carb is a good plan.
#40
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
ORIGINAL: Lightning Fan
No black block.
Bolts directly to engine.
I'm pulling the pictures please disregard them.
I'll post pics of my engine.
Lesson learned.
No black block.
Bolts directly to engine.
I'm pulling the pictures please disregard them.
I'll post pics of my engine.
Lesson learned.
No carb insulator? [X(] May not be your current problem, but will be when the carb vapor locks![] You need to isolate the engine heat from the carb with a heat insulator of some kind, either the stock one or a twister block. Of course a gasket on both sided of the block also. Good luck.
#42
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fort McMurray,
AB, CANADA
Posts: 4,121
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
If you want the best carb rotator blocks in the world talk to Antique (Ralph) as he makes them. Your engines with run much better with the carbs insulated from the cylinder. Better yet pull both engines and ship them to Ralph and you will have the best running 62's period.
#43
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Hartland,
WI
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Solved.
We all knew that this would not end well for me.
I'm writing a full description of the problem for those that might encounter this later.
Those of you that voted for the pulse port were right.
I pulled both carbs in order to swap them. It is the first time I have had the carb from the good engine off. To my surprise, I found three pieces between the carb and the engine. A gasket, a thin (1/16") plastic piece, and another gasket. On the bad engine, there is only one gasket.
Now, I've read about the need for the insulator for vapor lock. But as far as I knew, all it did was insulate. Wrong.
On my G62's, the pulse port hole on the engine does not line up with the porton the HDA-48D carb ... exactly. Theyare offset from each other about 3/16". When you look at them quickly, it looks like they would line up ... but noooo. I'll refrain from asking the ****** why it is like this, and accept that it is.
On my good engine, the plastic piece has the hole only lined up with the engine side, so all it does is provide a small amount of insulation. However, the GASKETon the carb sidehas a slot cut into it, to allow the pulse to travel through one gasket hole, through the plastic piece, and then get diverted to the carb hole through the carb gasket. When I looked at both carbs closely, there were knife scratches in the carb surface where the gasket had been slotted to allow this porting to occur.
Pic 1,2,3 my engine. This is MYengine. Not a jump start. The other pics in earlier posts are NOTmy engine. Sorry for the confusion .. it comes from trying to answer several people at once, but everyone thinks you are addressing them. My mistake (among others).
Pic4 the Bad engine, the contra rotating one, as it looks when you pull the carb. Note the only thing between them is the gasket ... no block or insulator. See how the pulse ports SEEM to be aligned?
Pic 5 the good engine carb separation parts. There is another gasket left on the engine, so there are a total of three parts. Note the slot cut in the gasket in the pic, lower right. Note the gouges in the carb from cutting the slot. The plastic 1/16" separator is on the left ... it's hole aligns with the port on the engine. The gasket slot covers both engine and carb holes.
Pic 6 gasket in place as I found it. This is how the pulse gets to the carb.
Pic 7 as the plastic separator would go on.
I have not tested it yet ... I'm out of time and I need to rethink the carb mounting now. I took it at face value that the carbmountingwas OK on these engines, which was stupid, given the history of the plane. I need to research parts that might be used, and determine what to do with BOTH carb mounts now that I see how it works.
If I missed the clues that you guys were giving me about these holes being offset in earlier posts, sorry for that.
Ilearned a lot about G62's in the last two days, which is a good thing.
Thanks to all for hanging in with me, sorry for the picture confusion midway through, and I hope this helps other guys that might see these symptoms. A particular thanks to Mr. Cunningham, who has provided great advice and offered to fix it for free. Of course, I am darn gladI did not take him up on it now ... oh, the razzing I would have taken! It is already going to be sooooo bad!
Good night all,
Rikk
#47
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Riverton,
WY
Posts: 3,114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Got to have an intake manifold, Going by a bad memory but if you look the pump hole in the cylinder and the carb may be in different places. I think the intake has a wormhole to move the pump pulse to the right place.
#48
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
ORIGINAL: Antique
The optical kills might be the problem..
The optical kills might be the problem..
#49
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Fredericksburg,
VA
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: G62 idles but won't do much more
Very interesting thread. I learned a lot and VERY thankful that I, too, have a G62 with EI modified by Ralph Cunningham that I bought brand new out of the box from him. Thanks!