dle 20 break in
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dle 20 break in
I have a new dle 20 the manual states to use a 30 to 1 fuel ratio for at least 2 hours at 4500 rpm can I break this engine in using a 14/8 prop and a 32 to 1 fuel ratio and not void the warnty
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RE: dle 20 break in
A 14x8 prop may be too small. I'd use a 16x8. The oil questions will start a oil war on what is best. Use any good syn. oil at 32 to 1. Set the needles for best performance and fly. Also if the engine didn't come with a NGK plug get one and throw away the Chinese one. Use only a 4.8v ing. battery.
When you have time. Read the following. I know lots of pages. You can skip about half, but there's a lot of good information in the thread. Dennis
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9863953/tm.htm
When you have time. Read the following. I know lots of pages. You can skip about half, but there's a lot of good information in the thread. Dennis
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9863953/tm.htm
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RE: dle 20 break in
Mix ratio is fine, but do NOT break-in on the ground!
That 4500 rpm/2 hours is one of about 7 errors in TH/Hobbico/Hobby Svc DLE20 manual.
Prop it the way you'll end up flying it, tune it correctly, then go fly it.
Also, put an NGK/CM-6 plug in it, the stock DLE/3 plug has reliability issues for some users.
NGK's actual stock number is 5812
Honda number is 98052-56471, it's an NGK CM-6 in a Honda box.
Jody's gas engine tuning tips (pdf files);
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10293852
More info on the DLE20cc.......
NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9863953/tm.htm
LOADS of relevant info there, most notably the very first post.
That 4500 rpm/2 hours is one of about 7 errors in TH/Hobbico/Hobby Svc DLE20 manual.
Prop it the way you'll end up flying it, tune it correctly, then go fly it.
Also, put an NGK/CM-6 plug in it, the stock DLE/3 plug has reliability issues for some users.
NGK's actual stock number is 5812
Honda number is 98052-56471, it's an NGK CM-6 in a Honda box.
Jody's gas engine tuning tips (pdf files);
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10293852
More info on the DLE20cc.......
NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9863953/tm.htm
LOADS of relevant info there, most notably the very first post.
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RE: dle 20 break in
I dont want to start an oil war everybody has their own type they use. the reason for a 14/10 prop is the ground clearance on a skybolt sorry I said it was a 14/8 its a 14/10 prop I have a MT 35 that uses 32 to 1 crrc 40 that uses 40 to 1 a dle 20 that uses 30 to 1 an a rcg 20 that will be here today the reason iam asking is I want to use one mixture (ratio) for all the engines is more oil better or worst?
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RE: dle 20 break in
Use larger wheels- 3.5". Use foam if you are worried of the weight. You dont need a 14x10 on a skybolt. I just maidened my Phoenix Extra with a 16x8
Ameyam
Ameyam
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RE: dle 20 break in
ORIGINAL: Antique
More oil is better, proven many times....32-1 is fine for any 2 stroke on the planet...
More oil is better, proven many times....32-1 is fine for any 2 stroke on the planet...
Pennzoil at 32:1 will work fine on every single one of the engines you have listed (plus many others) from the first start onwards.
#13
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RE: dle 20 break in
ORIGINAL: Antique
More oil is better, proven many times....32-1 is fine for any 2 stroke on the planet...
More oil is better, proven many times....32-1 is fine for any 2 stroke on the planet...
But too much oil is way better
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RE: dle 20 break in
Actually, I have found a time where more oil is not better. But it is because of the oil itself.
I was using Castrol TTS 2T Synthetic until recently (I changed to another brand because of the viscosity requirements of one of the enigne manufacturers I use plus I can get it even easier than the Castrol). For some reason, if you mix the Castrol at more oil than about 35:1 the engine runs pretty badly with a lot of coughing and spluttering - doesn't deastick, it just farts around a lot.
I was using Castrol TTS 2T Synthetic until recently (I changed to another brand because of the viscosity requirements of one of the enigne manufacturers I use plus I can get it even easier than the Castrol). For some reason, if you mix the Castrol at more oil than about 35:1 the engine runs pretty badly with a lot of coughing and spluttering - doesn't deastick, it just farts around a lot.
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RE: dle 20 break in
ORIGINAL: aussiesteve
.............runs pretty badly with a lot of coughing and spluttering - doesn't deastick, it just farts around a lot.
.............runs pretty badly with a lot of coughing and spluttering - doesn't deastick, it just farts around a lot.
{now, clean off your keyboard again}
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RE: dle 20 break in
ORIGINAL: a1pcfixer
Hey, I know that person![&:]
{now, clean off your keyboard again}
Hey, I know that person![&:]
{now, clean off your keyboard again}
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RE: dle 20 break in
too much oil can be a problem. Bearings have a clearance. The engine designer specifies the oil ratio to achieve a desirable oil film thickness under the design load. More oil does nothing but get squished out of the bearing. On hot surfaces it simply leaves heavy residue behind. not desirable.
The specified oil ratio for an engine is specified for a reason. Stick to it.
The specified oil ratio for an engine is specified for a reason. Stick to it.
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RE: dle 20 break in
I seriously doubt that using a 20-1 oil ratio would be so much more than 32-1 oil ratio to cause the oil to be squished out of the bearing..Got any technical info we can read about to show this information ? OR tell me about the ball bearings skidding around in engines with double sealed ball bearings filled with grease ? Electic motors that run for years..
Chainsaws that normally run for 500 to 1000 hours ....ALL 3Ws and DAs with 3 double sealed ball bearings...HMMMM ?
Chainsaws that normally run for 500 to 1000 hours ....ALL 3Ws and DAs with 3 double sealed ball bearings...HMMMM ?
#20
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RE: dle 20 break in
Steve, I'm a little surprised you have had trouble with the Castrol at rich ratios. I've run it at 32:1 in a DL50, 2 DA50's and 1 DA100 and it ran flawless for me.
+1 on Ralph's post (Antique) about the sealed bearings on the gassers - On a similar note I've got a SuperTigre 90 that I converted to spark/gasoline several years back. It's been running at 16:1 as has my Converted SuperTigre G51 without any bearing trouble at all. The G51 is turning just over 15,000 on the ground. Neither engine has any roughness in the bearings.
+1 on Ralph's post (Antique) about the sealed bearings on the gassers - On a similar note I've got a SuperTigre 90 that I converted to spark/gasoline several years back. It's been running at 16:1 as has my Converted SuperTigre G51 without any bearing trouble at all. The G51 is turning just over 15,000 on the ground. Neither engine has any roughness in the bearings.
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RE: dle 20 break in
Michael,
Just a suggestion, I also converted a Skybolt, and went with a Master Airscrew 14-8 3-blade and Tru-Turn Spinner for clearance. I know everyone recommends wood props, but with the 20cc, the MA seemed to work well. It turned out to be a really good combination, the Skybolt was a screamer at 127 MPH with great vertical and overall balance. Unfortunately, I dumb-thumbed it on a speed pass, resulting in a crash. Assembling a new one now. Great choice of aircraft, one of my favorite flying models.
Just a suggestion, I also converted a Skybolt, and went with a Master Airscrew 14-8 3-blade and Tru-Turn Spinner for clearance. I know everyone recommends wood props, but with the 20cc, the MA seemed to work well. It turned out to be a really good combination, the Skybolt was a screamer at 127 MPH with great vertical and overall balance. Unfortunately, I dumb-thumbed it on a speed pass, resulting in a crash. Assembling a new one now. Great choice of aircraft, one of my favorite flying models.
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RE: dle 20 break in
well I havent run this engine yet the weather is bad BGCombs sounds like the 3 bladed prop is a good match this is a built skybolt not the arf so the weight is a little more I like the looks of the 3 bladed prop and the spinner
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RE: dle 20 break in
I wish biela made a prop in that size, but they start at a 16" in the three blades. I like the smoothness of the three blade. The only issue I had was getting the jam nut tight enough to keep the propblades off of the spinner cone. I ended up cutting two discs of emory cloth with holes in the middle to put between the spinner back plate and thedrive washer, and the prop and spinner back plate. This gave enough bite to keep the prop locked to the spinner backplate, and the spinner back plate locked to the drive washer with everything tight.
I'll bet the kit version is stronger than the ARF. I wish I had the time to build, the Skybolt is such a nice airframe. There is a kit cutter in Camden, SC who wants to make a Skybolt kit at 50-80cc size if he can get a set of plans to re-scale. That would be a plane I'd make time to build. Please post some pictures when you get it put together.
Thanks,
Byron
I'll bet the kit version is stronger than the ARF. I wish I had the time to build, the Skybolt is such a nice airframe. There is a kit cutter in Camden, SC who wants to make a Skybolt kit at 50-80cc size if he can get a set of plans to re-scale. That would be a plane I'd make time to build. Please post some pictures when you get it put together.
Thanks,
Byron
#24
RE: dle 20 break in
ORIGINAL: michael wood
well I havent run this engine yet the weather is bad BGCombs sounds like the 3 bladed prop is a good match this is a built skybolt not the arf so the weight is a little more I like the looks of the 3 bladed prop and the spinner
well I havent run this engine yet the weather is bad BGCombs sounds like the 3 bladed prop is a good match this is a built skybolt not the arf so the weight is a little more I like the looks of the 3 bladed prop and the spinner
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RE: dle 20 break in
the kit is a old one that i got from one of the guys i fly with he built it strong the covering is not the greatest due to the age of the airplane I just want to fly to see if it holds together then I will recover it I flew it once with a st 75 it flew nice but had a lot of weight in the nose to balance it I figured with a gas engine i wouldnt have to add that much weight to it wrong still had to add a lot of weight about 16oz