sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

This engine ran BEAUTIFULLY in a Hangar 9 T-craft. Unfortunately, I wrecked that plane REALGOOD(lol). Nose-in, full throttle, total re-kit.

The motor was sent to Ralph C for assessment and possible repair. He gave it a clean bill of health after fixing the bent crank and I've had it on the shelf ever since.

Last week I assembled a Seagull Cap 232 (65" ws version) and installed the G20. The problems started right away. The engine is exhibiting the following issues:

1. Once warm (head temps around 170 (I have a telemetry module) it will not hold a real idle. I can get it to "sort of" run around 2200 RPM or higher, but it still dies in the air (2 dead sticks on maiden day...once resulted in damage to the airframe).

2. Once warm it "hangs" on transition from WOTback to idle.

3. If Itweak the needles to 100 RPMrich of peak at WOT on the High End and lean enough for a good transition on the low end, the engine heats up quickly and exhibits lean running symptoms. If I then richen things up, it surges on the low end (will not hold a steady RPM), WOTis obviously fine, but slightly lower RPM. Even rich, temps seem a bit high (260 after sustained WOT). I have an intake scoop cut in the cowl with baffles that butt against the cylinder fins. I haven't flow it since I added telemetry, soI don't know what in-flight temps are.

I was thinking all of this pointed to an air leak, so I've sealed the isolator and carb with Wurth DP 300(it's a non-silicon based, easy to clean up, high temp sealant). I was careful to keep all air passages clear. Ihave disassembled the carb, cleaned the screen and checked the diaphragm. The needle valve seems to operate freely, but it's heard to tell if there are contaminants.

I'm stumped. Like I said, Ralph gave it a clean bill. This engine is still basically brand new, you can still see machining marks on the piston. It's got about 1.5 gallons through it, but it DIDseem to be running really well on the T-craft (nice, low idle, smooth transition, etc.). I know the crash damaged it somehow, and maybe it's time to call it a total loss...but I don't want to give up yet.

FWIW, the ignition is stock Zenoah on a 2200mah 1s lipo.

Any pointers would be helpful.

karolh

If Ralph gave it a clean bill of health then it should be good to go, so here are a few questions. Firstly, how long has the engine been sitting idle, and secondly, did you send the engine and complete ignition to Ralph?

Karol

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

Sorry to hear of your mishap . I have been running a G20 on a Seagull YAK 54, and when I lost a wheel in flight, my one wheel landing was not a thing of beauty, tearing out the landing gear. After repair, I found the ignition had been somehow damaged and could not get the engine to start and run. It would pop, but not run. Replacing with an Rcexl solved the problem. From your description, it sounds as though your ignition seems to be working, but something is amiss with the carb. Possibly the metering messed up or other internal problem.

Me, I would try another carb to see if that is the fix. Good luck to you.

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

I sent everything.

I am thinking it is a carb problem.

Also...it sat for about a month.

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

Ignition does seem fine. When it's cold, it briefly runs normally, then it starts these antics. Makes me think there is something happening with the isolator...My isolator was cracked and Ralph gave me a new one. I'm wondering if there is something not sealing after it gets hot...can't be the isolator itself...perhaps a new gasket is in order. I've ordered an aluminum isolator (can't remember who sells it)...maybe that'll be the ticket. We will see. It definitely acts like an air leak.

There are NObubbles in the fuel line while running...

Someone here in Utah is selling WT540 and WT345 carbs for 11 bucks a piece. I'm picking up one of each...but I doubt either one will work on my Zenoah (was just going to have them around for parts or to play with and learn a bit). I don't know enough about carb specs...does anyone know if either of those will work?

karolh

My G20 gave me a really warm time solving a problem recently which initially seemed to be a carb related one, but which turned out to be a partially clogged felt filtered tank clunk on the carb's feed line causing very erratic running.

Karol

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks! I'll check the tank...it's new...so there is a possibility I missed something before installing it and there is a particle clogging the clunk.

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

I am on the road right now, but once I get home I will do the following:

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Send it back, I'll send you a whole new G20..With EXL ignition..No charge....[8D]

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

Holy S&^T that is NOTnecessary...but I will take you up on the offer!

Just so you know, at no point did Ifeel this was your fault...at NOpoint...I figure there is a problem with the carb and that + my being a dumb ***** is making it difficult to find the problem.

I'll pull the motor and ship it out Tuesday. Again, Ralph, I hope you don't feel I'm trying to squeeze you for help here...you were nothing but fair on the repair.

karolh

That's just how he is and that's why we his customers think so very highly of not only his engine expertise, but also his customer service ..... it's second to none.

Karol

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

Well, Ralph has certainly made another evangelist for his services/knowledge/products.  Simply amazing.

karolh

Remember tp keep us updated on the outcome of this, which no doubt will be to a satisfactory end.

Karol

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

I got the engine in from Ralph, and have decided to put it in a brand new Hangar 9 1/4 scale cub.  As such, I won't be using a tuned pipe, but I WILL be reporting back on how she performs!

karolh

No surprise here regarding Ralph's actions. Did he mention what was the problem with the engine you sent him?

Karol

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

Didn't run it yet...
No matter, it will be made into a G20 UL project, ultra light..cut off any extra casting, lightweight hub, cylinder fins turned, 3/8 carb rotator...

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

Got the cub almost done.  I'm out on work for 4 days, but once I get home it shouldn't be more than a couple of hours of finish up.

sirzepp

My Feedback: (1)

10 flights in on my G20 with Ralph's ignition. It's awesome. This is more than enough engine for a Hangar 9 1/4 scale cub...scale-wise it has the power of a supercub...so still over powered, but not ridiculously so. I have spent a couple of hours in the pattern, doing wheel landings and seeing how long I can hold the tail off. Even brand new, the G20 didn't miss a beat. It DOESseem smoother and more responsive with Ralph's ignition system, and it certainly uses less power. I am running dual 1700mah Life packs w/Tech Aero IBEC (ignition is running off rx packs) and I flew it 5 times yesterday, about 10 minutes a flight, and each pack had 300 mah burned off when Icharged (so a total aircraft-wide consumption of ~600 mah for 50 minutes of total flight time).

I'm stoked...Zenoahs are SMOOTH compared to my DLEs. I like the power to weight of the DLE stuff, but with Ralph talking about "ultra light" G20s...I'm thinking Imay do that for my next small gas plane.

karolh

I've got one of Ralph's "ultra light" G20's and it's a keeper for sure.

Karol

apalsson

My Feedback: (1)

+1 to that!

I have a couple of Ralph's G62 Lite engines and the workmanship on them is second to none.
Cost wise, they beat ANY Chinese ABC engine hands down
Value wise, there is simply no comparison