coleman fuel
06-01-2012, 07:48 PM
#28
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RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: av8tor1977
Yeah, ''oil'' and ''Coleman Fuel'' and ''Avgas'' seem to bring out the worst in people....
I have the same problem as you.
Let's go off topic. What's better, an Extra, an Edge, a Sukhoi, a Katana, a Giles, or a Yak?
AV8TOR
Yeah, ''oil'' and ''Coleman Fuel'' and ''Avgas'' seem to bring out the worst in people....
I have the same problem as you.
Let's go off topic. What's better, an Extra, an Edge, a Sukhoi, a Katana, a Giles, or a Yak?
AV8TOR
06-01-2012, 11:21 PM
#29
RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: WindGap
I use coleman fuel in my coleman lamp. Stuff works good.
I use coleman fuel in my coleman lamp. Stuff works good.
I had a Coleman gas stove that gave me fits every time I went to use it. Finally, we were boat camping at a lake and I fought with the darn thing for an hour making breakfast. I finally got done, and we all ate breakfast. Then, without saying a word, I calmly packed the stove up, threw it in the boat, went out to the middle of the lake, AND THREW IT IN!! No more Coleman fuel problems for me....
AV8TOR
06-02-2012, 04:14 PM
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RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: earlwb
Coleman fuel is OK in the smaller engines. The lower octane rating is not normally a problem unless the engine has a fairly high compression ratio. It is useful; if in your locale you are cursed with the horrid ethanol laced fuels they sell. Some of the substances in that fuel tends to dry out the flexible rubber like parts in the pumper cartbs. I have found that the SEF or Tru-Fuel brands of pre-packaged gasoline work really well. You just add extra oil as needed, depending on your engine. They sell the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot or seven your LHS if they sell PowerMaster fuels. Ordering it by the gallon from the LHS is a good way to get the stuff as it is cheaper by the gallon of course, rather than the quart containers at the stores.
I think the main problem with the ethanol laced horrid gasolines we are are cursed with, is letting it dry out or evaporate inside of the carbuertors and pumps. I think it is better to simply kill the engine, drain the fuel tank and plug the vent and carb so as to prevent it from evaporating as fast. Everytime it evaporates it takes away some of the flexibility or resiliency in the flexible rubber like parts inside the carb. I had gotten to thinking about it a while back and it dawned on me that when i get done using my gas trimmer or lawnmower, I kill the engine and leave it like that. But with many people's RC plane gas engines, they tend to run the fuel out of the carb and drain the fuel tank. So I think emptying out the carb leads to the rubber parts in the carbs going bad faster than if you don't. But then maybe it is all a pipe dream and I am totally wrong. But the experiment for me at least is still ongoing and working so far.
My other thought was that the gas trimmer, chainsaw, leaf blower companies were all using different rubber parts inside the carbs than what the RC gas engine companies are using. While we are using lots of ethanol laced gasolines in the USA, most everyone else isn't. So the parts they use could be the problem. But this thought may be incorrect or true, I don't know. The companies don't tell me what they use for parts.
Coleman fuel is OK in the smaller engines. The lower octane rating is not normally a problem unless the engine has a fairly high compression ratio. It is useful; if in your locale you are cursed with the horrid ethanol laced fuels they sell. Some of the substances in that fuel tends to dry out the flexible rubber like parts in the pumper cartbs. I have found that the SEF or Tru-Fuel brands of pre-packaged gasoline work really well. You just add extra oil as needed, depending on your engine. They sell the stuff at Lowes or Home Depot or seven your LHS if they sell PowerMaster fuels. Ordering it by the gallon from the LHS is a good way to get the stuff as it is cheaper by the gallon of course, rather than the quart containers at the stores.
I think the main problem with the ethanol laced horrid gasolines we are are cursed with, is letting it dry out or evaporate inside of the carbuertors and pumps. I think it is better to simply kill the engine, drain the fuel tank and plug the vent and carb so as to prevent it from evaporating as fast. Everytime it evaporates it takes away some of the flexibility or resiliency in the flexible rubber like parts inside the carb. I had gotten to thinking about it a while back and it dawned on me that when i get done using my gas trimmer or lawnmower, I kill the engine and leave it like that. But with many people's RC plane gas engines, they tend to run the fuel out of the carb and drain the fuel tank. So I think emptying out the carb leads to the rubber parts in the carbs going bad faster than if you don't. But then maybe it is all a pipe dream and I am totally wrong. But the experiment for me at least is still ongoing and working so far.
My other thought was that the gas trimmer, chainsaw, leaf blower companies were all using different rubber parts inside the carbs than what the RC gas engine companies are using. While we are using lots of ethanol laced gasolines in the USA, most everyone else isn't. So the parts they use could be the problem. But this thought may be incorrect or true, I don't know. The companies don't tell me what they use for parts.
06-02-2012, 05:56 PM
#36
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RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: fred985
the cure for the alchol in the gas is an easy fix. take a 5 gal jug and put 2 gal of water in it. then put 2 gal of gas in and let it set for a few days. the alky will go into the water. and you have alky free gas left over. no more problems. i pour the gass out slowly and when i get near the last i put it into as tin can so i can see the water under the gas and carfully pour it out. this was i loose only a few ounces of gas.
Seems like a great idea.
I think the octane rating would be lower after removing the alcohol, though probably not enough to be concerned about.
I remember a few years back before alcohol was mandated in auto fuel. With the blessing of STC paperwork, auto fuel was commonly used in small full scale aircraft. The STC that permitted the use of auto fuel did not allow alcohol (and far more importantly, alcohol would damage the rubber parts in many old fuel systems). As some fuel had alcohol and some didn't, and it didn't have to be labeled at the pump, there was a tester available that was a simple graduated cylinder. You filled it up to the first line with water, then filled it to the top line with fuel and then shook it. If there was alcohol present, the clearly visible water/fuel line would then be above the initial water line.
I'll have to try it myself, but I do wonder, what does the resulting alcohol free fuel smell like?
Way back when I used to say, "I love the smell of 80 octane in the morning!"
the cure for the alchol in the gas is an easy fix. take a 5 gal jug and put 2 gal of water in it. then put 2 gal of gas in and let it set for a few days. the alky will go into the water. and you have alky free gas left over. no more problems. i pour the gass out slowly and when i get near the last i put it into as tin can so i can see the water under the gas and carfully pour it out. this was i loose only a few ounces of gas.
Seems like a great idea.
I think the octane rating would be lower after removing the alcohol, though probably not enough to be concerned about.
I remember a few years back before alcohol was mandated in auto fuel. With the blessing of STC paperwork, auto fuel was commonly used in small full scale aircraft. The STC that permitted the use of auto fuel did not allow alcohol (and far more importantly, alcohol would damage the rubber parts in many old fuel systems). As some fuel had alcohol and some didn't, and it didn't have to be labeled at the pump, there was a tester available that was a simple graduated cylinder. You filled it up to the first line with water, then filled it to the top line with fuel and then shook it. If there was alcohol present, the clearly visible water/fuel line would then be above the initial water line.
I'll have to try it myself, but I do wonder, what does the resulting alcohol free fuel smell like?
Way back when I used to say, "I love the smell of 80 octane in the morning!"
06-02-2012, 06:46 PM
#37
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RE: coleman fuel
You guys make this way to complacated, Here is Wisconsin, we have 10% ETHNOL in all our gas for the past 20 years. In the Milw area we even have EPA screwed up gas.
That being said. 7 years flying gassers, from G62's, Q45, Q35, DLE 55, JBL 15. I use reg 89 octane gas 32 to 1 with regular old Lawnboy ashless oil. I HAVE NOT, burned up, blew up
or ruined an engine. Regular mantance ( not much ) all fly when ever required at the the flight line.
Don't over think this................. gas, oil, fly!
Chris923
That being said. 7 years flying gassers, from G62's, Q45, Q35, DLE 55, JBL 15. I use reg 89 octane gas 32 to 1 with regular old Lawnboy ashless oil. I HAVE NOT, burned up, blew up
or ruined an engine. Regular mantance ( not much ) all fly when ever required at the the flight line.
Don't over think this................. gas, oil, fly!
Chris923
06-07-2012, 08:05 AM
#38
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RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: acdii
I found Coleman fuel works good for cleaning the slime off the plane after flying a glow engine.
I found Coleman fuel works good for cleaning the slime off the plane after flying a glow engine.
06-07-2012, 09:32 AM
#39
RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: dirtybird
One of the most dangerous things you can do is use gasoline as a clean up fluid.
ORIGINAL: acdii
I found Coleman fuel works good for cleaning the slime off the plane after flying a glow engine.
I found Coleman fuel works good for cleaning the slime off the plane after flying a glow engine.
Its not gasoline. However it is only very slightly less dangerous.
06-08-2012, 02:20 AM
#40
RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: chris923
You guys make this way to complacated, Here is Wisconsin, we have 10% ETHNOL in all our gas for the past 20 years. In the Milw area we even have EPA screwed up gas.
That being said. 7 years flying gassers, from G62's, Q45, Q35, DLE 55, JBL 15. I use reg 89 octane gas 32 to 1 with regular old Lawnboy ashless oil. I HAVE NOT, burned up, blew up
or ruined an engine. Regular mantance ( not much ) all fly when ever required at the the flight line.
Don't over think this................. gas, oil, fly!
Chris923
You guys make this way to complacated, Here is Wisconsin, we have 10% ETHNOL in all our gas for the past 20 years. In the Milw area we even have EPA screwed up gas.
That being said. 7 years flying gassers, from G62's, Q45, Q35, DLE 55, JBL 15. I use reg 89 octane gas 32 to 1 with regular old Lawnboy ashless oil. I HAVE NOT, burned up, blew up
or ruined an engine. Regular mantance ( not much ) all fly when ever required at the the flight line.
Don't over think this................. gas, oil, fly!
Chris923
06-08-2012, 04:35 AM
#41
RE: coleman fuel
Why pay a high price for coleman fuel. Av-Gas is easy to get (no smell) and so is recreational gas. Look for it here. http://pure-gas.org/ Capt,n
06-08-2012, 09:43 AM
#42
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RE: coleman fuel
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
Why pay a high price for coleman fuel. Av-Gas is easy to get (no smell) and so is recreational gas. Look for it here. http://pure-gas.org/ Capt,n
Why pay a high price for coleman fuel. Av-Gas is easy to get (no smell) and so is recreational gas. Look for it here. http://pure-gas.org/ Capt,n
06-08-2012, 10:06 AM
#43
RE: coleman fuel
I think the fuel issue is something that is impossible to answer correctly. It is like everything causes cancer nowadays, the air we breathe, the water we drink, the food we eat, plus genetics make some of us even more susceptible too.
So many years ago, leaded gas was bad for a model engine, then it was the oils being used, the old synthetic versus mineral versus castor oil issues, nowadays it is the ethanol laced gasolines versus the simpler white gasolines or unleaded gasolines. Throw in Coleman's lantern fuel to muck it up a little more.
Soooo. any news on the real model diesel engines that can burn pump diesel?
So many years ago, leaded gas was bad for a model engine, then it was the oils being used, the old synthetic versus mineral versus castor oil issues, nowadays it is the ethanol laced gasolines versus the simpler white gasolines or unleaded gasolines. Throw in Coleman's lantern fuel to muck it up a little more.
Soooo. any news on the real model diesel engines that can burn pump diesel?
