captinjohn

I do not know who done the safety wire job in the photo...but it will fail in time. You need to twist the wire all the way from each bolt-head to where it meets. Best to look at some samples that are done correct. They also make a special tool for doing safety wire jobs.

wind junkie

My Feedback: (1)

If you're going to say it's wrong, and then say "go look at some correct ones" I think it's up to you to provide that information. [>:]

I was sure to figure 8 it so each would tighten the other. I also used loc tite. I've used this technique before on other installations with the same size motor and it worked fine for a few years now without failure.

But yes I'm aware there is an optimum technique which can be found here:

http://www.slideshare.net/juandigita...e-presentation

I mostly wanted to show the new Jtec design which allows access to the heads and the super dewalt drill bits.

captinjohn

wind junkie, I am sorry I did not post a link like you did. I had to run and pick-up some epoxy glue. Some engines shake so bad they challenge the saftey wire much more. Your engine probably was not that rough. My post was meant to be just a general imformation thing, and I was going to add a link. Take Care & Best Regards Capt,n

Bill Vargas

My Feedback: (5)

Safety wire is used to secure many items to include bolts,,, etc. When properly done the bolts will not back out. However, when the safety wire is done incorrectly, the wire will break and the bolts will loosen up and/or fall out.

In the pic you provided, the wire needs to pull the bolt head in the tightning direction and be slack free. Our little engine bolts need to have the proper washer and lock washer under the bolt heads also.

As for vibration, these little engine vibration levels are nothing when compared to the areas of a full sized F4 Phantom exhaust area that have lots of safety wired bolts,,, talk about carpal tunnel

Have a look at the attachments for safety wire illustrations,,, A good size "Steel" safety wire to use is either .025 or .032


BV

jorgeneo560

i had a dle 35ra engine and had the same problem, and its not posible with rear exhaust to run the engine and once it hot re-tightend the screw ,that solution is very clever, plus in modern engines the muffler hole for the screw is to small to put any wahser and the other probelm is the hole is conic, so even if you could put a washer it's not going to do a ****, but that solution is the best,solution so far is to put the engine in a vise, heat the holes with a torch (just a litte, had to reach 200 c° only) and then put the gasket and the muffler and tightend, also if you had a tig welder you can use hexagon head screw and tack one side of the bolt, use a high amperage fast little touch and it weld fast and it dosent going to had engouht time to melt the gasket