morecashthansense

hi Steve,
botth my new engines were set to 35, because of the pipes I have reduced the timing to 33 to get slightly cooer running. Have you tried the usuall problems by eliminating any switches or voltage regulators in the power supply to the ignition, also check the wiring is correct ie not going into the tacho output?

Joystick TX

I'm not sure how any of the usual problems you mention would change the timing curve of the modules. Did you look at the timing curve data? Two types of modules were tested with the exact same setup, several of each type was also tested, one type was the RCEXL A-01, the other was the A-02, the only thing that was different was the modules. The charts for all five modules tested were essentially the same.

morecashthansense

Hi Steve,
Of course the problems noted above would not change the curve, however I have seen plenty of set ups where a faulty switch and or a regulator on the ignition power feed has caused all sorts of strange behaviour and can be hard to diagnose hence my suggestion to plug a battery directly into the excell box to eliminate any variables if you are getting strange and/or rough running. I will try and post a link to one of my motors set in a test bench if it would help to hear another one.

morecashthansense

Hi
this motor was filmed during its first set up session it is nowtting a lot more top end revs.

http://youtu.be/f3g_etCkY7U

Joystick TX

Appreciate the help, but there are earlier posts that you missed. This is my fifth gas engine, two FPE's, two Syssa's and one DLE, and I have over 1,300 flights on this aircraft alone, so I know what an engine is supposed to sound like and I know how to tune one. It runs great with the standard RCEXL A-01 ignition module. For the first hour of operation, it ran great with the original DLE A-02 ignition module. I have over 100 flights with the engine running on the A-01 module. The only difference that I can determine between the two modules is that when the original A-02 module was working, the engine would idle at a much lower rpm, around 1,300 rpm, without quiting. Since I like my low end to be 1,700 RPM, going lower is not helpful to me.

morecashthansense

I wonder if the strange ignition curve has been designed to help tuned pipe use? In DLE's add they do push the 'easier to use a pipe' bit a lot.
Would the 'hump' in the curve assist in anyway with the transition onto a tuned pipes 'power band'? (probably not to lower revs)

Looking at my latest module there is a sticker on the back saying special for DLE 35R with a manuf' date of 30\8\2012 and a serial number of 0076548 model A-02 this and my other both idle at 1530 no lower which is fine.
Does your service centre still maintain that the timing should be 46degs seems very wrong that I seem to recall seeing on Rexcell's website somewhere just the 2 units one at 28 degs and one at 35.

Just re looking at your curve graph my first thourght would be that this curve has been set to assist with starting and to minimise any kick back

Joystick TX

The notch is way above the rpm for starting. The module uses the dwell time between the ON and OFF signal from the Hall sensor, at the starting rpms, to set the delay to make sure there is no kickback.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

New to gas engines - what temp range is normal for this engine and what temp is too hot? I'm setting up my onboard telemetry and need to know the operating range.

thanks

montemadness71

I need some help. I have a DLE35R. I have ran it 5 times. It runs great, Idles great. But its a pain to get started. Have to flip it with full choke like 20 times. All it will do is pop. Take the choke off, flip it like 25 times to get it to run. My arm is ready to fall off LOL. I have checked the to make sure the choke is fully closed. I even richen the low end some. It doesn't seem better. Now I think I have it too rich on the low end. Any ideas?

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

First things first, if you are running the stock DLE spark plug, pull it, then chuck it as far as you possibly can into the largest body of water closest to you. Then pick up a fresh NGK CM6 plug and install.

you'll be glad you did.

montemadness71

LOL. That was the first thing I did.

CARS II

My Feedback: (7)

You could get a CM-6 from TH.


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYZP5&P=ML

rica1

My Feedback: (32)

I don't know how familiar you are with gas engines, if you are, just ignore this. Close the choke, open the throttle about 1/4 of the way. With the ignition on, flip smartly until the FIRST pop (no more), open choke all the way, open throttle just above idle and should start after 3-4 flips. If it doesn't start after 10-15 flips, it may not be getting enough gas to prime it. You can try choking it again until it pops, If it doesn't pop, pull the plug and see if it's flooded. Have an experienced gas guy take a look at it for you.
How much time or fuel have you on/through the engine? Also, read some of the other posts on how others do it and that should be close to how it should work for you. Let us know what you find out.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I've found 2 things when it's hard to get that first "pop".

First is soldering the hole in the choke plate closed, and while you're at that project, make real sure when the choke butterfly closes, that it's closing completely and sealing against the carb throat all the way around. Doesn't happen often, but you do hear about that butterfly being off center, or the screw that secures it to the shaft being loose.

Second is fuel drain back, where the fuel lines are emptying out. This is generally due to a dry carb, or an air leak. If you're running the tank dry when you quit flying for the day, you might reconsider that practice. Leaving fuel in it keeps the check valves set to go for the next time. Doesn't allow them to dry out. If your fuel lines are clamped with tie wraps, often they'll actually create a leak by pinching the fuel line where it crimps. Really small tie wraps, wrapped around the fuel line twice will eliminate that potential.

Once you get it to the point where it will "pop" a little more easily, and it's still generally hard to start, often the low speed needle is set on the lean side. Easy starting is one of the good reasons for leaving your low speed tune a little on the rich side... Don't go for the steady/even idle. It's a single cylinder 2 stroke engine. They should be allowed to have an idle that might better be described as "lumpy".

Once you get it dialed in a little closer and get to know it a little bit, you'll fall in love with the engine like the rest of us have. Best of luck, -Al

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Soldering the holes in the choke plate is a good mod. Another thing that I am finding is when the fuel line from the tank is long, it just takes that much longer to suck fuel up to the carb. On the last 2 setups I have made, with DLE 55's, I got the tank closer, running a shorter tank line, and it primes up very quick.

Another trick, initially, when starting my gassers, I go full throttle, ignition off, choke closed, and then I rock the prop back and forth a bunch of times to get the fuel up.

I will say that I have a harder time getting my 35RA started than my 55 or 20 though. At least a small standard electric starter is enough to turn it over.

MTK

At first glance, it sounds to me that you may be flooding the engine. My 35 is the simplest starter of all my engines, with 1-2 flip starts every time. However, I first made certain that the reeds seated flat on the housing. No big deal, the reed housing was removed, cleaned of any flash, and flattened on a pice of plate glass and 400 wet or dry paper, and a drop of oil.

Let me suggest that you check your gas lines for air leaks and fix them if there.
My starting method is simple but different than what you typically see for gas engines. Mine is more typical of glow starts:

Closed choke, ignition off, full throttle
Rock the prop between TDC and BDC about 10x, until you see gas moving into the carb. If everything is tucked away on your model, then figure out what it takes on the bench first
Opened choke, ignition off and full throttle, flip the prop 2-3X. Just like large glow starts
Throttle to a hair above idle, ignition on, flip the prop through smartly. It should start in 1-3 flips

Michel

Hi
To the above post + 1, ,........... a well tuned engine is harder to start , than a , " RICH " engine

montemadness71

Thanks everyone for your reply. I went for the easy way first. I did find my muffler was loose. Then I tried what some of you guy suggested. The full choke full throttle. Rotated the prop around 10 times. Then put the throttle just above idle, full choke. Ignition on, 2nd flipped it fired. Took the choke off, flipped the prop about 8 times fired right up. I was even able to lean the low end back to were I had it. I will be taking the motor off to check the carb bolts as well. Thanks again everyone.......

Joystick TX

Sorry for the belated reply, I thought I had posted this a looooong time ago.

Thanks for the help. It was a voltage problem. The A-01 and A-02 modules will not operate over the same voltage range. I knew about the upper voltage change to allow for the new battery technology, but what XCELL failed to mention is the change in the lower voltage requirement.

I found that the DLE A-02 ignition does not work well with the 4 Cell NiMh batteries and any type of Ignition Battery Eliminator (IBE) circuit. The voltage can dip as low as 4.1 volt which is too low for the ignition to operate properly. The dip will not show up on a voltmeter. The A-02 RCXEL module likes to have the regulator set to 5.5 Volts.

The important thing is the "and". If you are using the 4 Cell NiMh batteries AND an IBE circuit there can be a problem because the IBE circuit will drop the voltage to the ignition and cause it to fail to fire properly. The engine will be hard to start and will run erratically.

Joystick TX

I just installed a new DLE-35ra engine on my new Bell Hop, an 87" wingspan, 10 lb 14 oz, mid-wing, sport plane that is almost finished. Ran two tanks of fuel for the initial break in. Using a Xoar 19-8 prop, getting 7,800 rpm. Engine has been very easy to hand start and idles like a champ.

Tucci454

My DLE35 RA is giving me fits lately. Got it used, ran great for 3 or 4 flights. Took it out to the field one day, and it would start, but wouldn't stay running. Acting like it was running out of gas. Brought it home, pulled the carb, took it apart, blew everything out and put it back together. Replaced fuel tank (because I wanted a larger one), replaced the feed line and filter, set the needles to factory positions. Started it, and it ran great again! FOR 3 FLIGHTS. After those flights I took it to the field after about 9 days. It started right up, but the high end seemed rich for a minute or so after start. It came out of it, so I flew it. Went fine. The second flight that day, again it started right up, but the transition was crappy for about a minute after starting it. Came out of it, so I flew it again for about 10 minutes. Acted fine in the air. After landing, it stalled on the roll out. Now it's back to the original problem.

Anyone know where to get a carb kit for this thing? I haven't been able to find one in stock anywhere.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

The second flight that day, again it started right up, but the transition was crappy for about a minute after starting it. Came out of it, so I flew it again for about 10 minutes. Acted fine in the air. After landing, it stalled on the roll out. Now it's back to the original problem.

Was following your other post, but sometimes a problem is easier to pick out when the issue has been worded differently. This sounds like it could be a lean low speed setting.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Sounds lean to me also. If lean, it won't transition to full throttle until it warms up. Has the engine actually been tuned for normal operation or just set to default needle values? Needles may have to be opened or closed from these defaults for best operation.

From there, is the screen in the carb clean.

If needed, a Walbro K20-WAT carb kit is what you want and should be available from any good gas engine shop or from multiple online sources including Ebay. Insist on a genuine Walbro kit so you know you're not getting some Chinese knockoff and cost should be under $10. Oregon and Stens kits are also acceptable if you can't find the Walbro one. Same p/n.

Tucci454

I did tune it a little initially, when I first put it on the plane. It just needed a little leaning on the high to improve RPM. After it started acting up, so many people recommended I put the needles back to stock, so I did that the first time I took the carb off to clean it. It ran fine with the needles there for 3 flights. Although with a little less RPM wide open.
I say the first time, because I just got done doing it again. I'll see what happens in the morning.
One thing to note, I tried starting it again tonight just before I pulled the carb off. I got a back fire with flame through the exhaust. I sanded the reed block while I had it apart this time, just in case.
The thing that stymies me is it runs so good when it stays running.

Thanks for the part number on the rebuild kit. Got one coming.

Tucci454

It's a two stroke, for Pete's sake. It's not rocket science here....