New Saito 4 Cycle Gas Engine, 3 Cyl FG-84
#152
Thanks Adrian.
One last question before I buy a new ignition system. I hooked up my 3 cylinder Saito radial ignition module, attached a battery, removed the spark plugs & fitted them in the plug caps.
There are strong blue sparks at each plug. Is it possible there could be no sparks under compression?
I cannot get a pop out of any cylinder when trying to start the engine. Fuel is getting to the cylinders, as the plugs get wet.
One last question before I buy a new ignition system. I hooked up my 3 cylinder Saito radial ignition module, attached a battery, removed the spark plugs & fitted them in the plug caps.
There are strong blue sparks at each plug. Is it possible there could be no sparks under compression?
I cannot get a pop out of any cylinder when trying to start the engine. Fuel is getting to the cylinders, as the plugs get wet.
#153
My Feedback: (11)
I may say 1 but not all 3 of them...
How do you connect the wires? the wires out from CDI falls on the engine naturally .
The wire in the middle is CYL #1 , right wire #2, Left is #3 and that is with you as a pilot in the "sit"
Not from the prop site.
Maybe is to much fuel that kills the spark, USE a 7.4 V Battery.
I have the CDI for those, Email me in case you need a new one.
How do you connect the wires? the wires out from CDI falls on the engine naturally .
The wire in the middle is CYL #1 , right wire #2, Left is #3 and that is with you as a pilot in the "sit"
Not from the prop site.
Maybe is to much fuel that kills the spark, USE a 7.4 V Battery.
I have the CDI for those, Email me in case you need a new one.
#154
HT leads are on the correct plugs. I am using a 2 cell lipo with good charge.
It did start for a few seconds yesterday & idled perfectly. Advancing the throttle caused an eratic running like the spark was cutting on & off.
I stopped the engine to inspect the electrical connections. All looked fine, but it never started again after 3 hours of trying.
I am fairly certain it is some electrical problem.
It did start for a few seconds yesterday & idled perfectly. Advancing the throttle caused an eratic running like the spark was cutting on & off.
I stopped the engine to inspect the electrical connections. All looked fine, but it never started again after 3 hours of trying.
I am fairly certain it is some electrical problem.
#155
My Feedback: (11)
The cutting on off could be from too rich...but I am not there to see/hear.
Take plugs out and heat them out like in good old times on the stove to dry them up or put ne.
Reset the carb to factory settings.
If you have a RCexl tachometer use it to see if you get signal from sensor and start from square 1.
Take plugs out and heat them out like in good old times on the stove to dry them up or put ne.
Reset the carb to factory settings.
If you have a RCexl tachometer use it to see if you get signal from sensor and start from square 1.
#156
Thanks Adrian for your help.
I changed the plugs twice. Carb adjustment was tried at factory settings & many positions around the proper settings.
Not one cough would the engine give.
I have ordered another ignition from the UK.
Once it arrives, I will post the results.
I changed the plugs twice. Carb adjustment was tried at factory settings & many positions around the proper settings.
Not one cough would the engine give.
I have ordered another ignition from the UK.
Once it arrives, I will post the results.
#158
Hi Guys.
My Saito 84 has been a great engine.
A bit difficult to start, but I have always just injected some gas into the open carb before each start.....a little annoying, but got used to it in my Yak 3U.
Now im in the process of installing it into my waco, and I had to remove the carb to remove the mounting place so I could install longer engine mount bolts........and then I saw a huge problem....
The carb spacer with the cutout for the pump vacume line was installed the wrong way around, so instead of vacume to the pump in the carb, it was actually venting to the atmosphere, and sucking in air........
Its amaizing that my engine ran without the pump....I cant believe it myself.. How can it run at all without the pump pulse ?
The very first time I started my engine ages ago, it was only running on 1-2 cylinders until I richened the needles......now it makes sense, as it was sucking in air before the carb, and running lean.......I did not think much of it at the time.....
I just counted and reset my needles. Manual says 4.5 on the low, and 2 on te hig needle. I have run mine at 4.75 on the low, and 5 on the high needle screw.
Unbelievable....as my engine was actually running great. :-)
I hope it runs just as well with the pump working :-)
My Saito 84 has been a great engine.
A bit difficult to start, but I have always just injected some gas into the open carb before each start.....a little annoying, but got used to it in my Yak 3U.
Now im in the process of installing it into my waco, and I had to remove the carb to remove the mounting place so I could install longer engine mount bolts........and then I saw a huge problem....
The carb spacer with the cutout for the pump vacume line was installed the wrong way around, so instead of vacume to the pump in the carb, it was actually venting to the atmosphere, and sucking in air........
Its amaizing that my engine ran without the pump....I cant believe it myself.. How can it run at all without the pump pulse ?
The very first time I started my engine ages ago, it was only running on 1-2 cylinders until I richened the needles......now it makes sense, as it was sucking in air before the carb, and running lean.......I did not think much of it at the time.....
I just counted and reset my needles. Manual says 4.5 on the low, and 2 on te hig needle. I have run mine at 4.75 on the low, and 5 on the high needle screw.
Unbelievable....as my engine was actually running great. :-)
I hope it runs just as well with the pump working :-)
#159
My Feedback: (2)
You are mistaken.
According to your,picture the pulse hole is located in the pulse channel. While the hole is not directly over the hole in the carb it is still allowing the pressure change necessary to operate the pump diaphragm.
Idealy yes the hole in the spacer should be directly over the hole in the carb.
According to your,picture the pulse hole is located in the pulse channel. While the hole is not directly over the hole in the carb it is still allowing the pressure change necessary to operate the pump diaphragm.
Idealy yes the hole in the spacer should be directly over the hole in the carb.
#160
no, the gasket/spacer was covering the whole channel.
I should have taken the pictures a few days ago when I found out, then you could clearly see only one indentation in the gasket on the opposite side of the gasket cutout.
I put it back together the propper way a few days ago, and now you see the indentation on both sides of te gasket.
I should have taken the pictures a few days ago when I found out, then you could clearly see only one indentation in the gasket on the opposite side of the gasket cutout.
I put it back together the propper way a few days ago, and now you see the indentation on both sides of te gasket.
#162
im still assembling the plane.
I have just reset the needles to factory........and test it when I can
This is how it ran before......i bet setting it right it will run like crap :-)
And here it was running for one of the first times with the factory needle settings out of te box..........and aparently the carb port blocked.
I have just reset the needles to factory........and test it when I can
This is how it ran before......i bet setting it right it will run like crap :-)
And here it was running for one of the first times with the factory needle settings out of te box..........and aparently the carb port blocked.
Last edited by SJN; 03-06-2018 at 11:42 AM.