av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Does anyone have a source for parts like elbows, pipe, etc. to make up a home made exhaust header? I wrote DA and they never wrote back...

AV8TOR

BadAzzMaxx

https://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.d...op.php?lang=EN

Sometimes it takes weeks to get them.

Milton

aerobear

My Feedback: (4)

I've bought unadvertised KS parts from DA but if they don't respond then that's a big roadblock. Aircraft International also stocks some stuff but probably just to support the engines they sell. Probably the same for DA. The don't list 20mm sizes for example. http://www.aircraftinternational.com...aderParts.aspx

I just got this DLE 20 stuff from KS in Germany along with a bunch of other stuff. It took about 2-3 weeks to the US. Their web store never gives any kind of order confirmation or any other kind of communication like shipping cost but it does work. I was slightly surprised by the final cost being a little more than what I had thought it would be.

KS covers a wide variety of engines so even if yours is not specifically covered you can usually find an exhaust stub that is close enough to your engine to work with minor dremel work. You just have to look through the dimensions they list for each one. The DLE exhaust stub in the picture is not made for a DLE 20. I wanted to use 20mm tubing so I modified a stub made for a different engine.

The price of silver is sky high right now and that has raised the cost of the silver solder.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Ok, thanks guys!

AV8TOR

spaceworm

Hardware store or plumbing strore. Or, Toni Ckark has kits and parts for headers. My other PC has his web address, but you could easily google him up.

skip1320

You have Part number for stub/header you modified,Thanks

spaceworm

Here is the webpage for Toni Clarks header/muffler parts for one of the engines he sells. He has other parts for other engines. http://www.toni-clark.com/ftp/cat_11..._1_2010_en.pdf

aerobear

My Feedback: (4)

The KS website is a bit confusing since there are often two part numbers listed on the same page for the same item. The number listed first seems to be what they really go by.

I picked this [link=https://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/neu/showarticledetails.php?lang=EN&anr=1342]1342[/link] stub since I wanted to use the smallest 20mm tubing.

KS lists [link=https://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/neu/showarticledetails.php?lang=EN&anr=1461]1461[/link] as fitting the DLE 20 but this looks totally wrong.

For use with 22mm tubing [link=https://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/neu/showarticledetails.php?lang=EN&anr=1422]1422[/link] and [link=https://www.krumscheid-metallwaren.de/neu/showarticledetails.php?lang=EN&anr=1427]1427[/link] look like they may fit with less modification, just slot the bolt holes a bit.

Tony Hallo

I used K&S several times, works great

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Nice work. How did you swedge the pieces to fit together, and is that bronze braze you used? Or silver braze?

Thanks,
AV8TOR

Tony Hallo

Silver solder, the parts are fit to provide an overlap where possible. The joints are are much stronger when in shear. They make a flux for stainless that doesn't made the black stains but I have not tried it yet. One trick I did learn at the welding supply to clean the majority of the flux off is to imerse the part in a bucket of water as soon as the flux freezes, this mades clean up easier. I found the flux to be glass hard once it cooled. Glass bead blast works well also.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks. Yeah, I've had the same flux problem when brazing with bronze. You're right, quenching the part does make most of the flux pop right off, but it still makes me cringe to quench a hot part. Always makes me think it is going to get brittle and then be more prone to vibration cracks.

AV8TOR

dadragon

Hey bear thanks alot for the parts site I'm working on making a radial exaust for an AD-1 skyraider 1/4 scale using a 170 flat twin those parts will make the job so easy( I will tig the most it and boot it in 2 places.DADRAGON.