Rudolph Hart

Hi quick and mknutson thanks for the info.In the past with my glo saitos i go to any bearing shop with the old bearings i've pulled.They mike them up and give me ngk's which have been good so far.

kwik

Yes....

When you say "I go to any bearing shop" you probably mean that you physically walk/drive to a shop in your town...

When I say "I go to any bearing shop" I mean going to a web-shop on the internet....because my town is quite small.....

So, Marks input here is very valuable to me, and probably many others if the day comes ( I certainly hope not) that I need a replacement.

nudger

Hi
Any of you guys having your motor hesitate or cough when going inverted.

Cheers Nudge

kwik

Mine does not. I have done nothing to avoid it either.

affas

No, running just smooth in all positions.

Will make some video next time!

SrTelemaster150

You might try putting an inline check valve (out) in the breather line from the nipple in the bottom of the case between the cam housings. Then, D&T the case on the bottom between the cylinders & install a nipple & unchecked breater tube. (If the OEM breather nipple is in the rear position, D&T the front position between the cams)

This will scavenge more oil through the bearing that is giving you problems.

The dual carb glow version of the engine (FA300TTDP) has in/out check valves in those positions for use as a pressure pump for the fuel system. I have run gallons of fuel through my FA300TTDP W/no issues. Perhaps the added oil flow over that middle bearing is helping W/long term reliability.

Even W/O a check valve in the rear breather, it will still move oil through the bearing & cam area.

I installed a outlet check valve in the cam housing of my FA180 & it moves a good, steady dribble of oil through the tube. I still used the standard breather nipple/tube arrangement on the OEM rear breather.

MKnutson

Kwik,
The bearing numbers I wrote down are the Actual industry standard numbers off the bearings that I took out of my engine. When you look up those #'s at VXB's site, they show you all the choices that they have available in any given size. The 6903 center bearing doesn't look like the one in that pic., I think they just show a generic bearing there. What "OPEN" means, is there are no seals or shields. The front bearing is a double rubber sealed,- center is open,- rear is open. You need the open bearings inside for the oil mist to pass through for lube. I wouldn't pick the cheapest for the engine, but look at the specs on them then choose. The factories never tell you the industry #'s, just thier own part #'s. It's almost always cheaper to go direct with the real #'s.
Sr Telemaster 150, those are cool little check valves, where do you get those?

Mark.

kwik

Got it, Mark. Thanks !

Didn't know those numbers were a standard. Good to get info from experts.

SrTelemaster150

You have to buy them by the pair, IN/OUT. The inlet check has a fine screen filter. They are standard equipment on the FA300TTDP. They are used in conjunction W/a bleed off needle valve as a fuel pump.



You can [link=http://www.advantagehobby.com/26420/SAI130T68A/]BUY THEM HERE.[/link]

Here is how they are situated on the FA300TTDP.


You can't use them as a fuel pump unless you emply a bleed-off regulator, but they will still force the blow-by oil through the middle bearing & cam area. I also believe that it aids rocker/valve guide lubrication as the inside of the rocker boxes are always well oiled when I remove them. The same system can be employed on a single cylinder like this.


The new FA180 back cover has a boss cast in for the outlet check, but I think it is better to force the oil through the rear bearing (on a single) & the cam/tappets W/an outlet check in the cam area.


I haven't run ther FA180HC W/the rear check in place but even W/the standard rear breather nipple/tube & the front check in the cam housing, there is steady dribble of oil coming out of the front check valve.

Today looks like a good day to compare RPM/power gains/loss so I will do some runs W/and W/O the rear check valve as well as comparisons of the FA180 carb/manifold & the FA150 carb/manifold.

nudger

Thanks Kwik and affas
How is your 57 kwik,have you got it sorted yet and how come you dont get it sorted under warrenty.It should be 3 years shouldnt it?

cheers Nudge

kwik

Hello again Nudger. New ignitions, free of charge from Advantage Hobby, are stuck in Norwegian customs.

Will most likely have it here in a couple of days.

Government wants VAT.

nudger

I know what you mean about the government Kwik


Nudge

kwik

hehe !

Rudolph Hart

Just finished running the 57 for and hour and am stone deaf.First with the 22x10apc at the 6500 benchmark then a 24x10 mas wooden for a max of 4900,the engine ran a bit hotter but should be good for low to mid fives in flight.

Rudolph Hart

Ran the engine today all good pulls a 24x10,a bit hot engine temp wise and running rich good transition,crankcase felt a bit hot like you could keep your finger on it for five seconds or so.Get 6500 with a 22x10apc and 4800,9 with a wide blade master wooden.First flick starts but by golly it takes a bit of patients(SP) to choke the fuel supply off like three minutes after you pinch the fuel line i was getting wankers cramp,and then the engine smoothed right out,was worried that it was to lean and getting hot.Sounds like awesome

kwik

In my opinion, a 24x10 is too big for the engine. 22x10 is best. But hey, I am not the most experienced guy around here.

But the rpm drop at 24x10 is significant....and would explain at least some of the temperature.....

I have baffeled the cylinders as best I can in order to cool them as much as possible.

If one where to stop it by pinching the fuel line, I would like some sort of valve for it. But havent found one yet, so that
is science fiction to me so far. But yes, I see they recommend it in the manual to save the membranes in the carburator.

Very strange, to have membranes that dont like gasoline......funny that, when you think of the old advice regarding an ordinary walbro carburator; Keep a little gasoline in the tank, just to keep some moisture in the carb to avoid the membranes drying out......

SrTelemaster150

I think a 22 x 8 would be even more appropriate. Since your FG 57 is turning the same RPM on the 22 X 10 as my 300TTDP CDI, it should turn the 22 X 8 likewise @ 6900-7100 RPM.

What is your max RPM? Is it the same 8400 as the 300TTDP?

Rudolph Hart

No it's 7000 max which is why i wanted a bigger prop,could'nt get a 23x10 at short notice.Would anyone guess how much a 23x10 would unload in the air?

Rudolph Hart

Hi kwik you are right the 24x10 feels a bit much for it on the ground i wonder about in the air tho as i don't plan any 3d flying with it.Can you post a pic of the baffles you made as i'm about to do my cowl.You can block the fuel off with a du-bro easy filler connection,hav'nt fitted mine yet.Will find out if there is a reason for the recommendation to run the carb dry now.

SrTelemaster150

That's dependant on the airframe.

A P-51 will gain a lot more speed & unload the prop a lot more in the air than a Stearman.

the pope

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmm wankers cramp !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rudolph Hart

Oh i certainly suffer from that more than most

Rudolph Hart

Well if you feel like commenting popey you could come up with something usefull that may benefit other people here..do you run a gas engine with ignition perhaps.My preference would be that you do and it's a fg57..are you having problems with it and can we help?

Ernie Misner

How do they keep the Saito gassers from running too hot on gasoline? Different valve seats or? Doesn't gas run hotter?

Thanks, Ernie

the pope

Howdy there O.F. since when has the pope had something usefull to add despite a few billion people hanging off of my every word . I do indeeed have 4 gassers . 1x dle30 , 2x 22cc mintors and 1x rcgf 15 cc on the way as we speak. I dont have much experience with gas ( well bugger all actualy ) as the mintors are going into planes that need a bit of work to fit . Its not unusual for me to buy engines and then search for a plane to fit ! A bit rse up but what the heck . I usualy have the engines sitting around for a few years before there fired up . I have also been practicing my pitstops for this weeks Bathurst . Ive managed to go to the dunny , pour myself another lunatics soup ( bundy) and get back to my chair all while the adds are on . Unlike you , my misses wont do it and if she caught me sneaking home with a 57 saito gasser I would be nailed to the cross for sure ! Cheers the pope