CB36

Hi,
I have a Fuji 32ei, with after-market CH ignition. I have not used it much, mainly due to it's difficulty to start first time of the flying session. Hand starting is just about impossible. I bought a monster starter that will spin it, eventually drawing fuel to get it running. I have to use a lawn tractor battery for the starter.

I'm pretty sure it's a fuel draw issue, as giving a squirt into the carb will produce a short burst. I would have thought that spinning with the starter, ignition off would prime it in no time, but It takes quite a bit of cranking to get it to run. Once it has started for the session, I can give it a flip by hand and it cranks right up.

Is this common for Fuji's? It's on a Giant Super Sportster that has yet to be maidened. I hate to quit on it, but if I have to, maybe next season I'll spring for a DLE 30 for it.

Suggestions?

Thanks All.

hauckf

I had a similar problem with the Fuji 32ei on my Giant SS. The problem was that the screws that attach the carb to the isolator block were just a tad too long and were bottoming out on the engine head, which prevented a good airtight seal between the carb and the block. The problem was easily solved by adding a washer to each of the carb mounting screws. You might check that out before tearing into the carb, fuel system, etc.

BadAzzMaxx

Double check to make sure your choke is closing all the way.

You can solder the hole in the choke and it will help it to draw fuel faster.

If you are using a two line fuel system with a T for fueling, Check to see it the line is dry after you fuel, If so the engine has to draw fuel all the way from the tank each time you fuel and then crank the engine.

Milton

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

After checking for loose parts and possible vacuum leaks at the carb and adapter gaskets, the pump diaghrams in the carb could be dry and not working after setting for a while . I would get any air out of the line to the carb and get fuel to the carb and if it wont pull then take the diaghram covers off and wet with fuel and un-stick the fuel inlet needle and diaghrams. be sure to clean the fule inlet screen while you are in there .If it wont draw fuel after wetting then install a carb kit and retune. It is not uncommon for the diaghrams to fail after setting for a few months.

MarvinLoomis

My Feedback: (20)

I've had a similar problem with a BT-24EI. I reset the needle valve lever height, replaced the diaphram and still had a problem with it drawing fuel. I finally found a small hairline crack in the carb insulator block around where the carb bolt goes into the block, replaced the block and made a world of difference. It is still a bit hard to start the first time when its cold. I have found that by rocking the prop back and forth at tdc until you feel it try to fire, then give it a good flip. Usually starts first or second flip. It have been very frustrating with this engine trying to make it start, but I think I have finally found the problems and have the right proceedure to get it started! Hope this helps you out!

Charlie P.

I've got to rock the prop with the throttle at 1/2 about 25 to 30 times to draw fuel into the carb. with my magneto Fuji.  Close the choke, flp the prop until it pops, open the choke and it starts on the second flip. 

CB36

Thanks for all the advice.

A question....while "bumping" the prop at TDC, it sounds like you have the ignition on? I assume you have a firm grip on the prop and can feel for a kick.

MarvinLoomis

My Feedback: (20)

You got that right, a firm grip, with a glove on, ignition on. You will feel the the pressure when it tries to fire.