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Gas ignition options

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Old 10-10-2012, 06:25 AM
  #26
MTK
 
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Default RE: Gas ignition options


Quote:
ORIGINAL: KitBuilder

MBRIG:
" Zenoahs too expensive? Did you add the ignition battery cost and hassle of charging?"

Dont have any issues with batteries or charging... I fly electrics and glow both using all sorts of batteries and I have the charger to handle it all so that cost is not a concern. Just seemed the Zenoahs were pricey and with one heading to college in and one in pvt school... I'm jus being frugal where I can.

The DLE looks to give me more motor for less cost. If only money wasn't an issue .

My understanding was with the magnetos the timing didnt advance or retard with engine speed but stayed constant as the magnets passed by??

All good info here... Im a bit away from the purchase but hoping Santa will pick one up for me so I can spend my saved up beans on the 1/4 DR1...
You can't go wrong with either the Syssa 30cc of the DLE30cc. They have proven themselves over the last 2-3 years to be very reliable with super field manners. To me, the single bolt prop install of the Syssa is worth more. I also hear good things about the RCGF32 cc which is the least expensive of the bunch and Mintor 33 . All of these come with rcexl CDIs.

If you want terrific power in this size and large prop turning ability, then the OS33GT is the one.... The OS also has a single bolt prop install which wins points with me every time... BTW- I drive all of my gas engines with the Tech Aero IBEC. The convenience of arming and disarming the CDI from the transmitter plus the weight savings on smaller airframes these engines are intended for, make this device worthwhile. It is a simple installation that you will learn quickly in a few minutes particularly since you are experienced modeler....
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:34 AM
  #27
acdii
 
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I found having to use two batteries a plus, the 4* I had the DLE20 in needed nose weight, putting the packs in the nose reduced how much was needed.  

Whichever one you go with, it is ALWAYS a good idea to use an Opto kill switch so you can kill the ignition with the TX, especially if you know your plane is going in.  Pretty sure I saved the engine from serious damage when the wing snapped and I was able to remote kill the engine. 
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:45 PM
  #28
captinjohn
 
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Read and search more.....yourself ! http://www.patentgenius.com/image/4188930-2.html
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:32 PM
  #29
Scota4570
 
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We are talking about a BUSA 1/4 scale Fokker DR-1. I have flown my BUSA Fokker D-7 with a 39cc chainsaw conversion, a 50cc chainsaw conversion, and a G38. All worked fine. The two conversions were electronic igntion. The G38 has pleanty of power, hand starts easy, and is utterly reliable. All of the engine installations required lots of lead in the nose to achieve balance. BUSA suggests a G-26 on their webpage, insufficient in my opinion. With a G38 you can forget about ignition batteries and BECs to power your igntion. This is a good thing. The extra weight is good in this application. There is nothing gained with a light modern engine. It will cost a lot more and you will just end up strapping more lead in the nose, 7-pounds of lead in my case. You can pick up a nice G38 for around $150? I traded a little conversion engine for mine. People who don't know better don't give these engines the respect they disserve. They are the best affordable engine for these short nosed WW-1 biplanes IMHO. Call BUSA and ask them!

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