raron455

My Feedback: (38)

HELLO, I AM STILL HAVING SOME ISSUES WITH MY OLDER BRISON 3.2. I WAS HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE ABOVE IDLE AND FULL RPM, I MADE ALL KINDS OF ADJUSTMENTS NEVER FIXED IT SO I ORDERED A NEW CARB. JUST PUT IT ON, GOT IT RUNNING AND IDLING PERFECT BUT MID AND FULL THROTTLE ARE JUST NOT RIGHT, SPUTTERS AND ACTS LIKE ITS MISSING. I TRIED ADJUSTING THE MIX AGAIN, STARTED WITH THE HIGH, TURN IT IN TILL IT STARTS TO FALL OFF, THEN BACK IT OFF ABOUT 1/8 TURN THEN DO THE LOW SIDE, IT ACTUALLY RUNS WORSE THAN MY STARTING POINTS OF 1 1/2 ON THE LOW AND 1 1/8 ON THE HIGH. HAVE NO IDEA OF WHATS WRONG WITH IT. I BOUGHT THIS USED EARLIER THIS YEAR IN A WILD HAIR EDGE. FOR AN ENGINE WITH SUCH A GOOD REP I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT MISERY. I AM RUNNING A MIX OF 80:1 WITH PREMIUM FUEL AND AMSOIL. ENGINE WILL START AND RUN PERFECT, A QUICK BLAST TO FULL THROTTLE AND IT WILL TRANSITION OK BUT NOT RUN RIGHT AT FULL RPM, BACK IT TO MID RPM AND DONT SOUND RIGHT, BACK TO IDLE AND ITS PERFECT. I CAN USE SOME HELP PLEASE

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

Tell me a little more about what you have and what you have done with it .
1) What ignition does it have ?
2)Is it mechanical or auto advance ?
3)Have you verified the igniton timing and how did you do it?
4)What spark plug are you using and what is it gapped at ?
5)What prop are you using and what RPM are you getting at full throttle ?
6) What is the carb number (WT 76) ?
7) What ignition battery are you using?

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I would start by ditching your fuel mix. Get some Penzoil or the like and mix up some 40:1. Check the plug gap, should be close to .025. Ignition battery voltage should be no more then 5.5V. Check for any air leaks. But for gods sake, get rid of the 80:1.

raron455

My Feedback: (38)

1. cd elecrtronic ignition by CH electronics

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

80:1 is a road to eventual failure. . . . May be the problem all along?

Pull the muffler and look at the piston? are there vertical galled streaks on the piston/ring?

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

I use Zinger 20X10s on my Brison 3.2s. The RPM is 7200. With 20X11s, I get 6800. That 22X10 sounds like a lot. I use 87 octane gas with Sthil HP mixed at 50:1. The CH ignitions are great, but like everything else, they can go bad. I never go to the field without a spare and in the past few years have had to replace one. Check the sensor connector. The solder joints on the male and female sides are prone to failure and it's hard to detect. You will have to remove the heat shrink tubing to find out. I've had several failures there and had to resolder them. Here's a link to a classic video that one of the regulars here posted. It will help you with the timing. It should 28 degrees BTDC at high speed and around 4 degrees at idle. Also check the ball links on the connecting rod from the carburetor to the timing ring. Those threads get stripped sometimes. Dan.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFp...?v=GBXFpxWg7vY

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

A couple more requests .
Can you post a close up well lighted picture of the electrode end of the spark plug you have been using .
A picture of the ignition timing ring showing the pickup sensor gap
look on the C&H module for etched letters ,there should be a date and possibly an S or Synch also etched . On your engine with mechanical timing there should NOT be an S or Synch.

You have the correct plug , correct carb. ,adequate battery size .
The prop may be a little too much load untill the engine is running properly but once tuned right and runing correctly the engine should turn a 22x10 around 7000 rpms.
I would put a 22x8 xoar prop on it to get the best out of the engine while tuning.

If you can, post the pictures and we will continue.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

I prefer the BPMR6F plug for that engine and that cylinder will accept either the "F" tapered seat or "A" washered plug.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The NGK BPMR6F tapered seat spark plug is perfectly interchangeable with the NGK BPMR7A or Champion RCJY6Y or 7Y gasket type spark plugs as far as the engine is concerned.

Besides, the NGK tapered seat spark plug is much smaller on the top porcelain side. This makes for a neater engine installation. This is a common swap and I have several engines that have been done this way.

However, the spark plug shielded boots are a different size. Both sizes are available from RCEXL.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Unless retrofitted with a shielded cap, most of the old Brison engines just used a rubber plug cap with separate ground lug attached to the cylinder. These will attach to most any plug type. Of course, it a metal cap is used, it should properly match the plug style chosen.

raron455

My Feedback: (38)

here are a few pix

raron455

My Feedback: (38)

and a few more pix,, didnt see anything scribed on the engine, and on the ignition module box, the only thing scribed on it was on the back, it was 04 04 guessing thats the date. I am going to try and check the timing using the method on the video that All Day Dan posted (thanks) and try to see what the timing is,, if I cant figure this out I guess Ill have to remove it and send it to brison, Gonna keep working on it though,,thanks for any help,,Lord knows I need it

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

Use the video that was posted by All Day Dan for checking the timing . Be sure that the throttle is wide open when checking the timing that way it wil be at max advance. To adjust the timing on the Brison adjust the length of the linkage that goes to the timing ring . I would set the timing at 30 degrees before TDC at wide open throttle . It doesnt matter what the idle timing is at this point . Get a new plug and gap it at .020 . Set the needles initialy at 1 -1/2 turns open each.
1)Start the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes

2)If it won't idle then lean the low needle only enough to get a steady idle that doesn't load up .

3)Run up to wide open throttle a few times to check throttle response if it stumbles lean the low needle a little more .

4)After warming the engine some more open to WOT and adjust the High needle to max rpms period . NO more No less ,Max PRM . This is where a tach is your friend.
Make adjustments slowly and in small movements the width of the screw driver blade at a time and allow 10 to 20 seconds for the adjustment to settle in.

5)Once the High needle is set rturn to idle and start leaning the low needle gradualy untill the engine does not respond to throttling up then start richening the low needle in small movements only enough to get a good throttle responce . There is no need to go any richer on the low needle than what is needed for throttle response.

6)After the low is set only rich enough for throttle response Go WOT again and set high needle for max rpms again using a tach ,again no richer than Max RPM's.

7) Reduce throttle to the point where the mid range is at its roughest (usualy about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle . Lean low needle only enough to slightly smooth out mid range roughness but maintain good throttle response (you cant get rid of all of it)

8) Go WOT and again set High needle for Max Rpm one last time

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

If these adjustments are done right the engine will hesitate slighlty when accelerating from a cold start . You will need to allow the engine to warm a little while before it will take the throttle.
Once warmed the throttle responce should be instantaneous. If not only richen low needle enough to get a good throttle response .

I would also advise to add a static vent line to carb diaghram vent . A quick search should get you a link to doing this .
This modification will reduce fuel mixture changes that happen when air born ( most engines will go much richer in the air than they were on the ground )

I know you have probably done these adjustments previously but try them as I have posted them and post your results .

raron455

My Feedback: (38)

CK1, I followed your directions to the letter, here is the result. I started with the timing, it was 21 degreess at wot, i set it to exactly 30 degrees  btdc at wot, i then put in a new plug gapped at .020, then set both needles out  1.5 turns. I fired the engine up and immediately knew this was a different engine. i adjusted the carb just as described, no miss, no sputter, got a great transition to full throttle max rpm with the 22x10 prop hit 6720rpm, throw the stick back down to idle and the engine goes to a great steady idle, then floor it great transition back up to max rpm. running fantastic, needles didnt take too much adjusting. i would say this thing is running perfect and is an absolute beast. i have a few questions, i am running the 80:1 mix with the amsoil and premium, i run that because my manual recommends that and alot of other brison owners run that mix,,is that ok i know some other members stated thats no good earlier in this post.  Also i seen some air bubbles in my fuel line while adjusting (although the engine never missed that i heard),,this setup does not need positive pressure fron the muffler does it?  CK1 I want to thank you for taking the time to help me, i was right on the edge of pulling it and sending it out for repair. I am truly thankful, you helped me fix this problem, and if you come to waco texas you look me up,,there is a steak dinner here with your name on it, thank you so muck SIR.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

raron, thanks for posting the great results. Those engines are work horses and last indefinetely. Since they don't use reeds, you don't have them to worry about. Dan.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

raron455,
No possitive pressure is needed. The carb has in internal fuel pump.
I would look into the air bubles in the fuel line .It could be nothing but it would be wise to check all lines and fittings including inside the tank.
I ran amzoil Saber at 100:1 in my engines for years with no problems . I have changed to Stihl Ultra but only because of avail. and pricing not because of any issues with Amzoil. The secret is proper tuning and cooling . I see no issue with using it at 80:1 as Brison recommended . Let the oil wars begin.

BTW , If I ever get to travel to Waco I may take you up on your offer.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Amsoil Saber at 80:1 is not too bad. If your piston looks good now, there's probably no reason to change.

I'm not a Amsoil man for I have a twin Brison 6.4 that was burned up by a guy running Amsoil at 100:1.

It has now been repaired with new pistons and rings. I guess that's good for I got it real cheap.