triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

You can not no how little I really care.You can not no how little I really care.You can not no how little I really care.

Whew, I've heard that so often it . . . . . phew!

SrTelemaster150

What's a not no?

Turk1

Great, Im glad to be confirmed. But you can not no how little I really care.

the pope

Hi there Turk you do know that i care but not in a creepy way !!!!!

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

I am still on the test stand but there's a little too much Vibration. Is this normal and will change when it get's into the plane or should I keep running it. Can anything be causing it.

Turk1

Howdy ANZAC, when will you do have a brandnew NGH 4 St.? Unfortunately I cant contain any bigger plane to put one of them.

the pope

Howdy Turk , I was almost tempted getting one of there 35 2 strokes from H.K. I ended up getting another brand . The price was is pretty good . I have been keeping a close eye on the 4 stroke threads but seeing that a few have had issues I havent got one .I know what you mean about not having room but that dosent stop me and shouldnt you . I just got a blackhorse ryan sta that the 4 stroke would have been a good fit . Had to do a bit of a tidy up in the spare room ( plane room ) to fit the big box in . I always get $ for xmas birthday and fathers day so its a bit hard for the misses to belly ache and Its better to ask for forgiveness rather than permission . Cheers and remember Anzac day is not too far away although having hordes of drunkin aussies over there is probably not something you guys look forward to . Cheers buddy

Turk1

Hi ANZAC, Ryan is a good plane , here a flying friend has one but I dont remember the brand. I was having 2 .46 size PT19 but both got RIP. I truly recommend you a 38 CC 4 St. which I think got rid of childhood problems.
I believe tight screws, good calibrated carb and cam adjustments and carefully adjusted ign. timing while WOT running ( ringing ears BCCHI ) and a well charged battery will give you a great running engine.
Young ANZAC s will be welcomed, no matter how they would have enjoy and fun.

flycolorado

Gents,

I've been following this thread for quite some time trying to decide if I could pass up a gas 4-stroke for $330 shipped. Long story short, taxes came back and so I bought one. I must admit I was a little hesitant based on initial findings mostly by Sonnich. Thanks to his great information an numerous posts I decided I had the ability to make the 38 run. FIrst things first, I checked the valve clearance and they were very tight. Then after checking all of the bolts for tightness (they were) and assembling it I made my first modification. Like all, the timing was an absurd 40+ degrees. I slotted the pickup and used a smaller screw on one of the mounts to attain as close to 30 as possible. If I ever tear the motor down I'll re-drill the pickup in the correct location. I also set the needles to 1 1/2 out as they were clearly just assembled in an arbitrary position and it would not have run with the low at less than one turn and the high at over 2 turns.
Running: It tried to get it to draw fuel to no avail. I disassembled the carb to see if I had installed the insulator backwards (with the hole on the wrong side) but no, it was correct. I poured small amounts of gas into the carb directly and it would fire on the 3 flip but would not draw more fuel. I tried this about 4 times with no success. Off to watch the 4 man Bobsled finals!
I was about to make gaskets as Sonnich had demonstrated and decided to give priming the carb old school a try. I pulled of the line for the pulse and place another line of tubing on it. You suck on the tube which moves the diaphragm lifting the needle off it's seat and turned it over a few times. My test stand tank is above the carb so it siphoned fuel into the carb and filled it up. Still needed a splash of gas in the carb but it fired up and ran! I was able to get a reliable 2000rpm idle and transition was good. I didn't bother with the tach on the high end as it's only got 10 minutes of runtime but it ran well. I'd say it vibrates as bad as one of my SPE 26cc's at idle but smooth's out in the midrange. Not sure what I'm going to put it in but I'll be running it a whole lot more before I do. Thanks to those of you who have posted so diligently, it's been great reading and a great help. I hope this motor works well for me (and the rest of us).

flycolorado

Here's a clip... Also a picture of my latest project, an early 2000 ISC International Extra 300. I won this at a local hobby shop about 18 years ago and finally decided the put it together. I guess you could say the Olympics inspired the color scheme! G26 going in this one.



http://youtu.be/jBAU8s-ANmY

Heli-NuBee

I just ordered a NGH-GF38 engine. I plan to install it in my GP Giant Super Sportster. The Sportster calls for a 33 cc engine. I hope this is a good match.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

Turk1

Hi, FlyColorado, enjoy your new baby. No need to drilling to have better ign. timing. Simply file the sensor holder slot to allow more towards retard. Not enough material to keep it ? Use bigger washer on holder screw. Im not sure but I guess you may have less vibrating engine by playing that ign. timing

flycolorado

I forgot to mention one important thing regarding the timing... The way the prop hub is broached (machined) there is several degrees of slop on the woodruff key. If you rotate the hub clockwise (as viewed from the front) until it contacts the key, when you tighten the prop it will retard the timing a few degrees further. I'm making the assumtion that the rest of them were made ths way. If I find that the prop hub does not hold this position I'll have to make a custom fit key to properly hold the hub in place.
In all honesty, if I still had access to a machine shop I'd simply make a new hub with the magnet in the proper location.

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

A few degrees plus or minus around 30 degrees makes no difference in performance. Use the 28 degree method and if it moves out to 30 and a little over that won't be a issue.
Use a Caliper a calculator and this Formula -
(Prop hub Diameter in mm) x 2.44 = (Distance in mm from center of magnet to the closest edge of the hall Sensor when engine is in TDC)

I am researching this as I am getting ready to work with my NGH 38cc ignition. I've been playing with this formula on my other new gasser engines like my DLE20. It works good and you don't need to get any timing wheels which are complicated to use.

weccjc

My Feedback: (1)

I noticed the same thing and wrote to NGH twice to explain the issue even sent a video of the excessive play but they did not understand at all so I ordered a box of 4mm x 5mm woodruff keys and machined them to fit. Originals are 3mm x 5mm. Zero play now, just piece of mind knowing that it is fixed.

http://monsterfastener.com/itemview.aspx?itm=WKS-078

ALFIEV

Okey dokes... after more running I am pretty happy with how this engine is going. Still not much luck starting from cold without manual prime, but usually can start when warm with just the choke. Not using an electric start yet, still on the way apparently. Running XOAR 18X8 I'm getting top rpm of 6800 and idle 2000 rpm. XOAR 19X8 is tops at 6200 rpm and idle at 1800 rpm. Good transition and a clean plug.

Not sure now what prop to use. I like the XOAR laminated props, and I think I'll run with one of those. The model will be an ESM Corsair weighing probably (still building) 19-20 lbs. I hope this engine will do it!!!!

SJN

your low speed needle is probably set a little too lean for easy starts..........but it is probably set perfect when it runs.........its a comprimise.

Captain John

Just finding my last post ...then my user name got mixed up?????

captinjohn

OK ...I got that glitch fixed I hope!

captinjohn

flycolorado I would not run your engine in real cold weather to break it in. Maybe in a somewhat heated garage, and have a way to divert the exhaust out-doors. On above 32 degree days you can also use the stretch part of a sock to place around the cyl. This will allow it to warm up better & more even. If you got a temp gun...use it & see. Best Regards Capt,n

captinjohn

Google puregas.com and you will find places near you to buy a very good gas that has no ethanol crap in it to ruin your engines carburetor parts. It is 92 octane & is a very good storage fuel. I have used it 3 years now...love it.

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

+1 for Pure Gas... I have been ethanol free in my planes and my vehicle for several years and couldn't be happier.

captinjohn

After you sold the Cap & bought a new Airplane, have you flown the new airplane yet with the NGH 38cc engine yet. Was the Cap too tail heavy? I got a Cap just like it on a trade & wonder what engine to put on it? Thanks, John

ALFIEV

Thanks SJN, I will continue to run it on the test bed and might try a bit more rich at the bottom. Don't want to go to rich because it'll probably start to run dirty and foul the plug.

We'll see.

Alf

simone76

Hello, the cam shaft popped off my standard gf38 before i could check the mark alignment. Can someone show me how the mark should be aligned to get proper cam timing please?
Thanks in advance