NGH 38CC 4 stroke
#851
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I believe Pardal stated he had too much play in the bearings so he machined some bushings to replace them?
See post # 37
See post # 37
Last edited by mogman; 07-13-2014 at 05:44 PM.
#852
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Yes, the original design have roller bearings in both ends of connecting rod but the first set of bearings failed and I checked 0,05 mm clearence ""in a 10mm bearing size"". This clearence is good for 100>150mm shafts with rollers. I bought new bearings and got the same clearence, so the ckank rod and piston pin seens to be undersize.
I reard in a forum about issues on damaged crank pin an by the pics it seens to me the cause was excescive clearence.
CURE: Buy a rod o TM-23 bronze and machine a bearing for the crank pin and a bush for the piston pin.
I reard in a forum about issues on damaged crank pin an by the pics it seens to me the cause was excescive clearence.
CURE: Buy a rod o TM-23 bronze and machine a bearing for the crank pin and a bush for the piston pin.
Last edited by PARDAL; 07-13-2014 at 06:58 PM.
#853
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Hi Pardal
I am going to try using Hobby Kings Prop balancer to externally balance the motor. If this is an abject failure I will copy your internal balancing. Any thoughts?
I am going to try using Hobby Kings Prop balancer to externally balance the motor. If this is an abject failure I will copy your internal balancing. Any thoughts?
#854
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Hi,
Long itens can not be balanced properly in a single plane. See, props have big diameter relative to its boss ( hub ) thickness and can be balanced staticaly in a single plane, even big plane props.
The wheel/tire of your car is relatively wider and must be balanced in both sides, dinamicaly.
The HK prop balancer may be good to balance a prop, just the prop.
Th distance tween prop and crankshaft is too big. You must balance the crank and the prop separately, I dont realyze other way.
Long itens can not be balanced properly in a single plane. See, props have big diameter relative to its boss ( hub ) thickness and can be balanced staticaly in a single plane, even big plane props.
The wheel/tire of your car is relatively wider and must be balanced in both sides, dinamicaly.
The HK prop balancer may be good to balance a prop, just the prop.
Th distance tween prop and crankshaft is too big. You must balance the crank and the prop separately, I dont realyze other way.
Last edited by PARDAL; 07-17-2014 at 04:11 AM.
#855
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My Mid-West AT-6 ready to fly, we will see how it goes this weekend.
16.5lbs, 86" span, NGH 38cc on 18 x 10, Robart retracts converted to electric.
I am getting about 6350 rpm on the 18x10, should pull it ok.
16.5lbs, 86" span, NGH 38cc on 18 x 10, Robart retracts converted to electric.
I am getting about 6350 rpm on the 18x10, should pull it ok.
#856
That is pretty neat that Pardal machined a new connecting rod for the engine. Nice job then. it does look pretty good too. I can see that as being a good solution for a undersized crankpin and wrist pin.
#857
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Earlwb, I did not machined a new conrod, only the bearing and bush.
I took off the bearings an pressed the bushes.
It took me more time shopping the bronze rod than machine the bushes.
I took off the bearings an pressed the bushes.
It took me more time shopping the bronze rod than machine the bushes.
Last edited by PARDAL; 07-18-2014 at 02:13 PM.
#859
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No need to change anything.
Mine flys very well as it is.
I have installed the engine in nylon mounts, and they take up an incredible amount of the vibration of the engine.......I could almost say it is smoothe running :-)
Its not as powerfull as I want it to be, but it is reliable at least.
Mine flys very well as it is.
I have installed the engine in nylon mounts, and they take up an incredible amount of the vibration of the engine.......I could almost say it is smoothe running :-)
Its not as powerfull as I want it to be, but it is reliable at least.
#860
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And it has needle bearings from the factory.
Agreed, that they are not a tight fit, but it doesn`t seem to be an issue.
Will have to see in a few 100 hours if there is any wear.
#861
I see no reason to change anything in the engines, unless you just really want to. I would not use ceramic bearings as they are way too fragile for a RC engine especially a four stroke engine. Leave the ceramic bearings for the serious competition people.
#862
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Earlwb is right, 'I see no reason to change anything in the engines, unless you just really want to'.
-Properly fit, ball/roller bearings are better than plain ones, unless particular applications.
-Properly fit, ball/roller bearings are better than plain ones, unless particular applications.
#865
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Hi there not trolling or anything like that BUT your going to have a lot of $ in that bird . Wouldnt you be better off with a better more reliable and more expensive brand of engine ? I dont see how saving a few $ here is a wise move . Cheers the pope
#868
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Well, flew the AT-6 today for the first time, as previously posted, the plane weighs 16.5lbs, running a 18x10 Xoar wood prop at @ 6400 rpm, flew like an absolute dream, I was amazed at the speed it had, must have been around 50mph and sounded just awsome. Only issue I had was it wouldn land, wanted to float on and on, on the third aproach I managed to get it slow enough to make a good landing, I think the engine idle noise makes you think it's low but it isnt, I can lower it a lot more which will help.
So, been a long time coming but I would reccommend this engine on Price and power, it's obviously not great quality but if you give it a good long run in, set the valves frequently I think it is worth getting. I have many engines ranging from small two strokes thrugh Saito fourstrokes, DLE gassers all the way up to my Laser 200 Vee twin and most recently my Saito FA 325 radial (oh, and a Honda 4 stroke overhead cam GS25) and this engine is worth every penny (in my opinion of course)
So, been a long time coming but I would reccommend this engine on Price and power, it's obviously not great quality but if you give it a good long run in, set the valves frequently I think it is worth getting. I have many engines ranging from small two strokes thrugh Saito fourstrokes, DLE gassers all the way up to my Laser 200 Vee twin and most recently my Saito FA 325 radial (oh, and a Honda 4 stroke overhead cam GS25) and this engine is worth every penny (in my opinion of course)
#869
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Hi Pope!
I own three Lasers, all bought second hand and I'm considering buying a new one! Only one of the three is in a model, an old 90 in a plan-built Senior Telemaster, so I'm going to have to build two models to take the 70 and the 150v!
I don't sell Lasers but the factory will sell you a new one at a very reasonable price!
I own three Lasers, all bought second hand and I'm considering buying a new one! Only one of the three is in a model, an old 90 in a plan-built Senior Telemaster, so I'm going to have to build two models to take the 70 and the 150v!
I don't sell Lasers but the factory will sell you a new one at a very reasonable price!
#870
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I have the Laser 200 Vee in my 1/4 scale Balso USA Fokker DVIII and it is the best glow engine I have ever owned, I am actually a UK national and when I used to fly in the UK they always seemed too expensive but are comparible to Saito in cost and are very very well built, a little underpowered due to the small bore carbs they use to suck fuel without tank presurisation but run so sweet with onboard glow.
#871
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gjhinshaw
, I refer to post #858.
What is the
weight and wing area of this beauty?
What speed You want to fly it?
The Connie is a composite plane.
I want a gas engine, NOT Nitro!! These engines are a okay engines and are as good as any other engine. You just have to break them in correctly. I would like to find another gas engine that small that would fly the model! But why pay for a "NAME" when you can buy the same thing from a NO-NAME company????? The Laser's are okay engines, But they are NITRO!!! Don't want to fiddle fart around ALL the time with setting them!! Start the gasser up and GO FLY!!!
#872
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Fair enough its your plane . I would just hate to see something go pear shape if the engines were not performing correctly . Anywho good luck and that plane is a beauty , congrats. Cheers the pope
#873
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[QUOTE=Telemaster Sales UK;11844466]Hi Pope!
I own three Lasers, all bought second hand and I'm considering buying a new one! Only one of the three is in a model, an old 90 in a plan-built Senior Telemaster, so I'm going to have to build two models to take the 70 and the 150v!
I don't sell Lasers but the factory will sell you a new one at a very reasonable price! [/QUOTE)
Hi there T.S. I saw you were from pommie land and thought you might be a retailer . Believe me the thought of owning a laser has crossed my mind . Maybe one day . Cheers from the pope
I own three Lasers, all bought second hand and I'm considering buying a new one! Only one of the three is in a model, an old 90 in a plan-built Senior Telemaster, so I'm going to have to build two models to take the 70 and the 150v!
I don't sell Lasers but the factory will sell you a new one at a very reasonable price! [/QUOTE)
Hi there T.S. I saw you were from pommie land and thought you might be a retailer . Believe me the thought of owning a laser has crossed my mind . Maybe one day . Cheers from the pope
#874
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All up flying weight is about 100 pounds. Wingspan is 176", Speed??? Scale all the way!!!
The Connie is a composite plane.
I want a gas engine, NOT Nitro!!
The Laser's are okay engines, But they are NITRO!!! Don't want to fiddle fart around ALL the time with setting them!! Start the gasser up and GO FLY!!!
The Connie is a composite plane.
I want a gas engine, NOT Nitro!!
The Laser's are okay engines, But they are NITRO!!! Don't want to fiddle fart around ALL the time with setting them!! Start the gasser up and GO FLY!!!
I was seriously thinking of buying an NGH but they have received mixed reviews in this thread so have decided against it. Several contributors, having been disappointed with the quality of the original engineering, have seen fit to dismantle their new NGHs and replace components with parts they've had to machine themselves. I have never heard of anyone doing the same with a Laser.
Pope, three points. Firstly, I'm not a retailer but I used to import the Telemaster range into Europe until Hobby Lobby decided that they would deal with all Telemaster enquiries centrally, and no, I didn't owe them any money! I'm not clever enough with computers to be able to change my "handle."
Secondly, new Lasers are a bit cheaper in England than their OS or Saito equivalents. You may order one directly from the factory. They export to the Antipodes.
Finally, if you must refer to the country of my birth as "pommie land" please use a capital P and L!
#875
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HA ha ha ha ha try that with hobbyking!