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NGH 38CC 4 stroke

Old 08-26-2014, 09:49 AM
  #951  
Heli-NuBee
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Just a quick update - I installed a Dave Platt spinner on the NGH 35 and did a bit more tuning while completing additional break-in engine runs. The engine now runs much smoother and my CMP BF-109 is now finally ready for its maiden flight.



Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:38 AM
  #952  
gjhinshaw
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What a beauty! Keep us up-to-date!! Oh... Don't forget... VIDEO
Old 08-29-2014, 05:57 AM
  #953  
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I had my maiden flights on the 109 Wednesday morning. The plane flew very well and the engine ran great. The only issue encountered was the tendency for the landing gear to bounce if one trys to turn the plane while at any speed on landing. Even slight corrections on the ground result in severe bouncing. I got away with it the first flight but the second flight resulted in a nose over and broken prop. I am not sure how to cure this issue except to let the plane roll out until very slow on landing. I used the retracts sold by Nitro planes for the 109 and they work well but seem a bit on the weak side for this plane. Here are some pictures of the maiden flights.



Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Old 08-31-2014, 01:30 PM
  #954  
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Originally Posted by Heli-NuBee
I had my maiden flights on the 109 Wednesday morning. The plane flew very well and the engine ran great. The only issue encountered was the tendency for the landing gear to bounce if one trys to turn the plane while at any speed on landing. Even slight corrections on the ground result in severe bouncing. I got away with it the first flight but the second flight resulted in a nose over and broken prop. I am not sure how to cure this issue except to let the plane roll out until very slow on landing. I used the retracts sold by Nitro planes for the 109 and they work well but seem a bit on the weak side for this plane. Here are some pictures of the maiden flights.



Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
109 looks great!! Landing gear seems to be a problem across the spectrum. I am still repairing wing internal structure on the ESM Corsair!! The ESM gear for that model is not up to supporting a 20 lb model. If it fails again I will have to look for better gear. Quite frankly, it really p###es me off because the ESM gear isn't the cheapest to buy in my country.
One day a model manufacturer will spend a little more on landing gear, a price I would pay when buying the model, and they will provide gear which is up to the job.
Then they will have a winner and sell bucket loads of models!!!!
Ahhhhhh well...... it's nice to dream.....
Old 08-31-2014, 05:33 PM
  #955  
Basil Yousif
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The Nitro Warbirds are not setup for retractable landing gear. I have the P40 Warhawk 1.40 and had to peel back the coating and completely rebuild the structure in the wing to hold the ESM air retracts. It was a big job to rebuild it and make it strong enough and not ruin the model as you cannot get any parts of even another complete model right now. It's looking good with the NGK 38cc motror can't wait to fly it. After I complete the plane and move to the finish work I will cut out some sour cream plastic containers and use them for wheel wells. The containers have a ridge that will go over the top so all the cutting won't show. Simple method but it works.
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Last edited by Basil Yousif; 08-31-2014 at 05:39 PM.
Old 09-02-2014, 12:49 PM
  #956  
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OK, it is time to move on. I am now installing my NGH 38 GF engine in my GP Giant Super Sportster. I will post additional details and pictures in the near future.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Old 09-04-2014, 11:16 AM
  #957  
Basil Yousif
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Your lucky at least Nitro Planes has your Bf109 kit on closeout for around $200 right now. I wish I can get a backup P40 kit for if something happens to this one but I don't think Nitro Planes is going to carry these large Warbirds anymore. Supposedly there making too much profit on the foam stuff to mess with big planes. I agree with them the profit margin is much better when you make planes out of flying packing material!!
Old 09-05-2014, 02:36 PM
  #958  
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I did a test run on the NGH-38GF engine powered GP Super Sportster today. I got the engine running much better. The low needle was quite rich and tuning helped the low end shaking. However, the engine bolts came loose in less than five minutes of running from vibration. This engine runs strong, it is a shame that it has so much vibration. I rechecked the prop and spinner balance but they were good. I had blue locktight on the engine bolts, maybe I need to go to red locktight. I will keep tying, I think it will be worth it in the end.



Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Old 09-05-2014, 04:18 PM
  #959  
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Originally Posted by heli-nubee
i did a test run on the ngh-38gf engine powered gp super sportster today. I got the engine running much better. The low needle was quite rich and tuning helped the low end shaking. However, the engine bolts came loose in less than five minutes of running from vibration. This engine runs strong, it is a shame that it has so much vibration. I rechecked the prop and spinner balance but they were good. I had blue locktight on the engine bolts, maybe i need to go to red locktight. I will keep tying, i think it will be worth it in the end.



best wishes and good safe flying.

heli-nubee (aka roger the radial rabbit)

well nuts.
Old 09-06-2014, 12:55 AM
  #960  
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ditch the standoffs, and use a nylon mount :-)
Old 09-07-2014, 04:27 PM
  #961  
AlexL
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Very good info being shared here, thanks a lot guys.


Alex

Last edited by AlexL; 09-09-2014 at 05:33 PM.
Old 09-08-2014, 02:47 PM
  #962  
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Double entry, sorry.

Alex

Last edited by AlexL; 09-09-2014 at 05:54 PM.
Old 09-09-2014, 08:42 AM
  #963  
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I used red locktight on the engine bolts that came loose and let it cure for a full day. I then ran the engine again and did some additional tuning. The engine is running much better now but still has some vibration but much less than before. The bolts seem to be holding, at least for now. I may actually be ready for a maiden flight with the GP Giant Super Sportster powered by the NGH 38GF engine.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Old 09-11-2014, 03:00 PM
  #964  
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I had my maiden flight today using the NGH 38GF engine on my GP Super Sportster. The engine ran very well and flew the plane just fine. However, three of the four engine mounting bolts were loose after a seven minute flight. I hate to give up on this engine because it does run well but still has much to much vibration. I will play with it a bit longer and may try the nylon mounts rather than the stand offs but I am afraid it will follow the same path of my Saito 180 which I sold to others because I could not solve the vibration issue.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Old 09-11-2014, 03:57 PM
  #965  
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Originally Posted by heli-nubee
i had my maiden flight today using the ngh 38gf engine on my gp super sportster. The engine ran very well and flew the plane just fine. However, three of the four engine mounting bolts were loose after a seven minute flight. I hate to give up on this engine because it does run well but still has much to much vibration. I will play with it a bit longer and may try the nylon mounts rather than the stand offs but i am afraid it will follow the same path of my saito 180 which i sold to others because i could not solve the vibration issue.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-nubee (aka roger the radial rabbit)
Back up that nylon mount with WELL NUTS in the firewall. They ready do work!

http://www.lowes.com/Hardware/Fasten.../N-1z0yk2b/pl#!
Old 09-12-2014, 04:38 AM
  #966  
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While still available, I recently grabbed a new cam shaft, since it seems this part gets worn fast. I noticed the new one gives a more advanced valve timing compared to the old one. I didn't take any picture, but i look forward to bench test it as soon as possible. Anyone noticed or have some experience about it to share?
Old 09-28-2014, 04:24 AM
  #967  
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Originally Posted by simone76
While still available, I recently grabbed a new cam shaft, since it seems this part gets worn fast. I noticed the new one gives a more advanced valve timing compared to the old one. I didn't take any picture, but i look forward to bench test it as soon as possible. Anyone noticed or have some experience about it to share?

with new cam shaft, some dremel work on sharp edges in intake section, playing with needle settings and ignition timing only managed to get 7050rpm at maximum, with biela 16x10 3 blades. Hoped something more, never reached the peak at 7200 anymore.
Old 09-28-2014, 05:51 AM
  #968  
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try to adjust your ignition a little, to 4-5 degres earlier
Old 09-28-2014, 10:32 AM
  #969  
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It will be interesting to see how you get on with this. Tyor could well be right, he has had good success with his NGH 38 on that propellor. I could only get about 6700 rpm on mine. I went to a 2-blade XOAR and did advance the timing a little. I was able to get about 7000 rpm. I also changed the position of my valve timing gear. I had previously retarded it, and although the engine ran far smoother it did loose a lot of rpm. I put it back to the factory position and this restored my rpm considerably.
I know my inaccurate "tinkering" will probably frustrate some of the more learned and experienced 4-stroke gas engine experts. I should buy a timing gauge and do things properly aye!

Good luck and please keep us posted with your progress!

Alf
Old 09-28-2014, 06:11 PM
  #970  
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A timing gauge is a good tool, but with it we locate the advance angle, say, 28 degree, at ZERO rpm.
It was supposed the spark to retard to 5 degrre BTDC at 2000 rpm and no retard above 5000. It is noted it doesn't happen but at 5000 the ignition use to retard about 5 degrre, so the spark go to 28 - 5 = 23 degrre BTDC so the need to advance 5 degree or set, with timing gauge, an advance of 33/34 degree BTDC to get an actual advance of 28 degree. This in noted in motorcycle ignition also.


still alive and flying.

Last edited by PARDAL; 09-28-2014 at 06:14 PM.
Old 09-28-2014, 07:47 PM
  #971  
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hmm I thought it would ignite earlier when the speed increases. say. 28degree at idle and something like 33degree at 5000rpm
Old 09-29-2014, 01:27 AM
  #972  
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Originally Posted by tyor
hmm I thought it would ignite earlier when the speed increases. say. 28degree at idle and something like 33degree at 5000rpm
Nope.
Eletronicaly one event can not be advanced but retarded from one moment.
You set maximun 28° and it delay to 5 degree at low rpm.
The fig is only an aproximation of what happens.

when we advance phisicaly the spatk, the curve rises closer to ideal.
In some engines the delay is so much you can not get the engine started.
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Last edited by PARDAL; 09-29-2014 at 01:37 AM.
Old 09-29-2014, 06:46 AM
  #973  
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I missunderstood your last post. The timing we set the ignition to is the max advance we can get and it wil be delayed to a lower degree on low rpm
Old 09-30-2014, 02:36 AM
  #974  
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Originally Posted by tyor
try to adjust your ignition a little, to 4-5 degres earlier
actually i tried moving the pickup and the max rpm i managed to get been just slightly over 7000rpm as stated. There must be something else... what cam timing has who got more rpm? Where the cam shaft dot is?

my engine is the 2 piston rings "not pro" version.
Old 10-12-2014, 09:49 AM
  #975  
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no luck still, didn't change the cam timing yet, switched to a 18x8 2 blades biela and only managed to get 6600-6700 rpm, even playing with ignition timing. I don't understand this lack of performance, and why before it peaked at 7200 rpm with biela 16x10 3 blades, giving good flight performances, and then never more. Engine got fully inspected and no issue found. On next weekend i will field test it as it is, will see if sailplane will get off water.

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