SrTelemaster150

I used a Hobbico 90 size starter to start my FA-180s for years. It would melt the brush mount if I cranked too long though. I just upgraded to the Hobbico 180 starter so I'll see how that goes.

The Ghost

Hi All,
Mine arrived, runs very well after a couple of adjustments. Any one tried running smoke on these engines.
I have set up mine with a temp and RPM sensors for telementry in the TX.
I have made up a similar fitting like Digshome, just waiting on the tap and die to arrive.
Will look at setting up smoke after I get the exhaust system setup.
I used a geared starter from Hobbyking with a 3000mah 4cell LiPo

Cheers

discus-fly

Also got mine started today for the first time. Found hand swinging on a 20 inch prop not to be an issue so no need to buy a starter, at least for initial running in. Success in starting only came after squirting fuel into the exhaust port, so wondering if this will be a repeat feature.

Did get a couple of abrupt stopping from idle which lossened the prop, so slightly worried regarding this problem.

Further running had to be aborted due to a noise and smell complaint from the wife, so further running in my garage is a non starter.

spaceworm

[QUOTE=discus-fly;12012005]...
Did get a couple of abrupt stopping from idle which lossened the prop, so slightly worried regarding this problem...
[/QUOTE

You could try a locking nut (Nylock) for the prop nut. that way, if it does loosen, you won't lose it and the prop or get the prop in your face. Or, use two prop nuts. Tighten the first one against the prop, then hold it with a wrench and tighten the outer nut against the first one. Works for me. Good luck.

Sincerely, Richard

tyor

Didnt yor engine came with a lock nut for the prop discus-fly?

I also use the geared starter from hobby king, with that big silicone cup it is easy to start even without a spinner mounted.

I love my 2 ngh gf38 engines. but I got a new engine yesterday, it was a different world but a different price to

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHr6L00OmKw

discus-fly

Yes did use the locking nut as supplied using the cone inwards towards the prop, so surprised it losened.

Arm is a little sore from starting attempts yesterday so no running in today.

AlphaWhisky

Hi All,

I was lucky enough to be given (most of) one of these today. I write (most-of) as it is was supplied without the electronic ignition unit and stand-off mounts. Otherwise it is in excellent little used condition. I have plans for it but will set it up for a bench-run first. I`m not very experienced with gas engines so have a query or two ......

Can someone confirm that just about any single ignition unit will do here - such as is used with the likes of DLE 20 and DLE 30 engines? Also, can someone please confirm the length of the standard stand-off mounts.

I am considering this engine for use with maybe a 1/4 scale DH Tigermoth ( 88" span) or possibly a Gloster Gladiator of around 72" span. I think it might be a little too hot for the Tigermoth. Has anyone any learned opinion on that?

How does this engine compare with the likes of a Zenoah G-26 for performance?

Your thoughts/opinions will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Alan W

discus-fly

[QUOTE=AlphaWhisky;12013809]Hi All,

I am considering this engine for use with maybe a 1/4 scale DH Tigermoth ( 88" span) or possibly a Gloster Gladiator of around 72" span. I think it might be a little too hot for the Tigermoth. Has anyone any learned opinion on that?

Mine is going in a Fair 1/4 scale tigermoth, yet to establish it actually fits though. Aware from the scale drawings I did it was very tight particulatly on the height of the engine.

Use of a custom exhaust will also be necessary

ALFIEV

Awesome Tyor, I am envious!! Well.... I could buy one of those.... if I sold my car
What are you thinking of running it in (what model)?

tyor

the saito goes into a polikrapov I16 from modellbaumuder. It`s alot of work. The kit is only a molded fiberglass fuse and foam wings covered with balsa. Pluss some fiberglass parts. vs ca 2meter.

ALFIEV

Love it! I know it's off topic in this thread, but perhaps you could let me know when you have made a video of it in flight and I can check it out. I am always interested in seeing different models/engines flying.

Alf

tyor

I think you can use a regular rcexel ignition.

dogshome

Looks like a potentially difficult flier - like a Geebee!
Do you have a build thread elsewhere on RCU?

dogshome

DISCUS - Strange you have a motor with no mounts or ignition??? I can understand the engine getting damaged and/or the mounts, but not the ignition pack.

I would say power of a DLE30. ASP180 on glow fuel is similar. 18*8 on the ASP or 19*8 on the NGH. I think either of those aircraft sound right. The only thing is the cowl/radial diameter on the Gladiator - but my YAKs have huge bucket cowls and that doesn't seem to make much difference! The last inch of prop does most of the work

Zenoah 26 is a 16*8 and quite a bit less Ooomph.



What's the story with it? I haven't run mine yet and it feels a bit clunky/unsmooth compared to a run-in ASP180 when turned over by hand. I have two ASPs on Walbro carbs. Couldn't start it? Crashed it?

AlphaWhisky

Hi Guys, Thanks for the replies.
Discus-Fly - I favour the Tigermoth at this time. I scratchbuilt a nice little 1/8 scale one some years ago and intend to basically double the size this time. First check suggests the engine will fit well, and yes, I have an idea for a simple custom exhaust system.

TYOr - I suspect you are right about the Rcexel ignition. That will be easy to check out.

DOGSHOME - The engine was given to me by a prolific modeller. It is in excellent undamaged condition and surplus to his requirements. He was using the stand-offs and ignition unit elsewhere and far be it for me to rock the boat. Another thought... I have a 90" Eindecker currently a little underpowered with a Zenoah G-26. It occurred to me I could try the NGH 38 in the Eindecker and use the Zenoah in the Tigermoth perhaps ....?

Alan W

tyor

I dont have a build thread here om rcu. I may start one But i have som pics. in this album on fb. https://www.facebook.com/tom.nohr/me...1302624&type=3

i have a thred on a norwegian forum. but with alot of talk in norwegian
http://www.modellflynytt.no/showthre...modellbaumuder

tyor

I had som trouble to get one of my gf38 running good, it was the last one. Th ignition said 4.8-8.4v I tryed it on 4.8v. It was idiling ok but vont teke higher rpm than 2500. then itt startet to miss fire. switched to 6v and the engine run nice. I also throw away the made in Kina sprk plug. and put in som NGK cm6. I use only ngk plugs in all my gas engines.


I have started a thread on my polikarpov here if someone is interested.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...l#post12014544

AlphaWhisky

Further to my original post #1107, can someone please advise the overall length and internal configuration for the standoff mounts originally supplied with this GF38 engine.

Is the standoff plain bore or tapped? If tapped, what thread size and is it tapped at each end or right through?

Thanks,

Alan W

The Ghost

Alan,
The original stand off's are 55mm long and tapped both ends M5x0.8

Cheers

discus-fly

Alpha Whisky; Did a quick fit check of the engine in the Flair 1/4 scale Tigermoth and it would appear that the GF38 does indeed fit, although a custom exhaust will be required.

Second topic to all is that I need some more advice on hand starting.

Have tried closing the choke and turning the engine over anticlockwise about 6 revs with the throttle fully open. Then connected the battery and attempting a start with first the choke closed. This does not get the engiine to fire at all.

So the only way I can currently start the engine is to prime the exhaust with fuel and then hand crank it over with the choke open.

Sure this method is not going to be practical when installed in the airframe, so how do others prime the engine?

tyor

If handstarting i have 1/4 trottle choke on and cranking til it start and let it run for some seconds. Stop the engine if it dont stop by itself. Then turn the choke off and crank til it start. it my take some time to get it to start with the choke on, if you not have run the engine for some days.
If the engine is mountet inverted it can be a lot of oil on the spark plug that make the starting difficult. It can help to take out the plug and wipe off the oil.

on a warm engine it should be easy to start whitout using the choke. You can try to open the low speed needle 1/4 tur and se if that make it is easier to start

AlphaWhisky

Discus Fly,

Re exhaust system for Gf-38 into the Tigermoth, I`ve done a rough sketch of what I had in mind and will try and attach it here... I used a similar system on an 80" scratch build Spitfire some years ago and it worked just fine. Engine there was an OS 1.08.

The basic muffler is to be cut from scrap Ali. box section, approx 1 1/2" x 3/4" x 2 1/2" long. Weld a top and bottom to the box and weld selected exhaust pipe (1/2" dia Ali. tube) into the lower end . I don`t have facilities for welding aluminium so had it done at a local boat builder shop. Amazing what a few beers can achieve ..... To fix the muffler in place bore holes right through the box - clearance holes on outer face so cap-screws fix inner face direct to the engine. A spacer could be used between the muffler and the engine, but probably not required in this instance. I sealed the outer head-clearance holes in the outer face of the muffler using small tabs of beer can material glued in place with high-temp silicon on the Spitfire, but JB Weld may well work here.

GHOST - Thanks for details re stand-offs - just what I needed.

Regards,

Alan W

discus-fly

Hope you have not drilled the exhaust AW as that config will fowl the bottom of the engine cowl. On the Flair kit the engine head is about 1/8 inch clearance to the bottom. So the exhaust needs to run backwards as a box section andf then extended out using the tube.

The Ghost

AlphaWhisky,
Have you looked at http://www.christiantraders.com.au/c..._Adapters.html, with one of there Flexible exhaust kits, you would need to make up an adaptor as shown in the photo. Will be tapped out to 14x0.75 to take the RCS14x75/90 adaptor, just another way around the tight cowl.

Cheers

AlphaWhisky

I haven`t drilled anything for this one yet. Method I sketched is based on what I used on a Spitfire some years ago. In that instance I used a bigger box section and tapered the profile to follow the cowling profile. The simple attachment was the practical key to its success. For this one it appears there is plenty of room to the rear so your suggestion to run the box horizontally and weld the exhaust pipe vertically may well be the answer.

The Ghost,

I contacted Christian Traders soon after I acquired this engine looking for a set of stand-offs. They no longer handle NGH products so I haven`t looked there further. I may well check their flexible gear further down the track.

In the meantime I intend to beam-mount this engine vertically on a simple plywood mount and test-run it primarily to check for vibration etc. The fact that I will test it vertically and later intend to use it inverted shouldn`t have any affect on it`s overall performance should it? I`ll intend to use a 19 x 8 wooden prop.

Alan W