Charley

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Hello all,Quote:Originally Posted by earlwb
Nice,let us know how it goes. Post some pics too. Everyone loves pics.
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Dunno what RCU SW is up to. Happy it accepted the post at last

Tried to run it this morning. All I got out of it was an occasional pop as my starter spun it. So I pulled the plug and grounded it to the case; got an occasional anemic spark. My fault, I was trying to use some old 1A to 2.3A batteries that I dug out of the old stuff. bin. Now began the parade of old, recently recharged receiver batteries. Pop, pop...... I finally found a 4.8V, 1600mAH pack I'd made up last year from Rayovac cells. It showed signs of life so I put it onto the charger. While waiting for the charger I wasted time checking other things.

So it's getting hot in the side yard, there's a pool party going on over the back fence and the charger hasn't beeped but WTH; I hooked up that old 1600 pack and she fired right up! Yippee! It would rev up and idle but was pretty loud in an enclosed space with the straight pipe. So after about a minute I shut it down. There was a thunderous silence from the pool party area! Then I heard, "WTH was that?" I figured that was enough for the holiday!

So I put everything away for the day. At least I know it runs and I need fresh batteries. The more I spin it the better the compression gets. I have some A123s form an old DeWalt power pack. I bought that pack when A123s were new in the hobby. Made a 4 cell pack just to get familiar with them. That pack will still fly my Super Sportster EP after all these years.

Anyhoo, going to make a 2 cell LiFe pack for the NGH ignition. I'm going to buy some new batteries also.

Attached is a pic of my engine stand,

CR

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acdii

If you plan to use Life, do yourself a favor and use a regulator. Even though they claim to work with 8.0 volts, there are still guys having them fail on Life. For me, sticking with good ol reliable NiMh 5 cell 2000 mah packs for the Ignition, as have not had a single issue with them and they are not expensive either.

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Well, the RCE ignition I have is model A-02, says on it 4.8v/8.4V. My fully charged 2 cell LiFe battery is 6.9V, so it's in the usable range along with the 5 cell NiMH for allowable voltage. After 1/2 hour of running today, it's down to 6.72V, no load, after several hours at rest.

No argument with you however, I tend to stay with the NiMH cells because they can be charged in the model, unlike the LiPos that lots of folks want to use. But the A123s can be charged in the model too and I already have them! I'll order some new batteries for the airplane, probably 6V NiMH for the flight pack and 4.8V NiMH for the ignition. The RC Excel gurus say that the spark isn't any hotter if one runs over 4.8V. I have no data that says otherwise so........

CR

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Hans,

I finally got a couple of sustained runs out of my GF-38. At full throttle with a 18X10X2 wood Zinger prop, the engine RPM was about 6,000. This with the open pipe and on 20:1 break in fuel, 91 octane, no alcohol. My test altitude is ~1700 feet MSL. Temp 80* F, H ~35%. I suspect the 18X10 is too much prop right now.

CR

timmybeetle

Hello

Thanks for info.
But I think you need 95 octane fuel, and a 18X8 brake in prop.
In my german manual they say it;s better to mount engine on plane, when it runs stable fly with it, it's better for cooling and heat built up for cylinder head.
at the moment I fly my plane with 3 blade 18X10 Mejzlik prop, just need a long start run, but it flies great and landing are now out of the book ha ha.
maybe I try octane booster, just to get some more RPM during start? If I do I report about my findings.

keep us updated.

grts Hans

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Hans,

Ran it today on a 18x8 MA Scimitar prop, which is a narrow blade compared to the Zinger. Tached ~6500 RPM, still on the break in fuel with open pipe, conditions about the same as last time.

Unless your engine is detonating on the fuel you're using, you won't get more power by increasing the octane. I wish I could get 95 octane pump gas but it isn't available here. Highest is 92 and that's 10% ethanol.

I'm going to put the HK muffler on before I run it again. It barks like a nitro engine. Maybe I ought to ritchen it up a bit; the exhaust is pretty dry but the plug is black.

I'm flying blind here. What does everyone think?

CR

timmybeetle

Hi Charley

Maybe after a few tanks of gas you must improve RPM.
Just check you'rs valve clearance.
I adjusted my timyng less pre ignition ( I gess around 35degrees now)
Hope you will get some better RPM out of the 18X8 prop, on youtube there are video's and they reach 7400RPM?????

grts Hans

DaveHickey

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Test since deleting folder.

CR

Boboeing

Thinking about putting one of these on a 86 inch Phoenix Stinson Reliant. I get good top end power. Xoar 18-8 7400 RPM. Valley View 19-8 7000 RPM. Valley View 20-8 6700RPM.( I think the Valley View wood props are same as Falcon.)
My only complaint is that below 2000 RPM vibration amplitude increases significantly. At 1700 RPM it really has the shakes.
So ...I'm looking for suggestions on how to smooth out the idle. Maybe check valve clearance, Use higher octane fuel. Retard timing a bit. Anyone out there have success in smoothing out their idle?

tyor

try to retard the ignition, it will help.

Boboeing

Thanks tyor,

Did the following and it seemed to help reduce vibration and the shakes at idle:

Smaller diameter prop. Reduced size from 20-8 to 19-8.
Retarded ignition a little which lowered top end by 200 RPM.
Used 93 octane gasoline.

Still have sufficient power, I think, for 18 pound Phoenix Stinson Reliant. With 19-8 prop now doing 6850 RPM.

John Sohm

My Feedback: (9)

acdii

It may have been replaced with the 30CC.

https://www.agaperacingandhobby.com/...?productid=929

Glad I got the pair I did when I did now that they are no longer available, not even from HK.

DaveHickey

Pricey but still listed on Ebay. D.H.

ernestino

mchandrayan

Don't think the 30 replaced the 38.
Two are different displacement and power
Still available from https://www.justengines.co.uk

acdii

It replaced it in the line up, the 38cc is more than likely discontinued now. I guess you didn't click all the way through on that site you listed because they are also out of stock. HK has been out of stock for over 6 months now. They are usually the first to get them too.

mchandrayan

Yes, saw that later that Just Engines are also out of stock.

dr.tom

Hi,
just got mine from justengines.uk
scrolled all pages,
thanks for the tips, (checked all, and moved HAL sensor to min advanced position around 25-28°, as much as plastic holder would let, maybe I can make holes in it a few mm longer so it can slide more..., it was like 40ish° stock!)

running happily, looking forward to trying it in FW190

youtu.be/wEXL8iZ-lY0
youtu.be/r8A5d3lT85Q


it has 60min on 3000 rpm, consumes around 220 ml /h , insane!

dr.tom

Here's it in FW190 taxiing for now

youtube.com/watch?v=EOnpLEQY8vw
youtu.be/Jd9JFyNqxZw

DaveHickey

Motion RC is advertising the 30 and 38cc 4 stroles in stock right now here in the US.

cathurga

Hey all,
I am looking at getting one of these engines, and have been going through this thread, reading with some interest. It seems like its the usual hit/miss on the quality, with some glaring errors, most of which seem to be fixable. It sucks that we have to do all these mods that should have been thought out properly during design, but then again, they are pretty cheap so might be worth a punt.
I have a Saito FG radial 60cc, actually a pair of them, and they have not been without their problems, but I wont go into detail here.
Two of the main issues with the Saito is the ignition set at around 44Deg BTDC.....seems like these guys have the same misconstrued idea the more timing is better. Not COMPLETELY wrong, but just wrong in this application. Its not easily remedied without modification, if you want to get the timing to 38-30Deg, although it looks like people have got it as close as 33-34Deg just by moving the sensor to the extremity of its adjustment. Since the rcxel ignitions use a curve that is 28deg max, it looks to be a case of you either have easy starting and good idle with less then perfect top end power OR, hard starting and lumpy idle with better top end performance. It would be nice to have an ignition system that would top out at 34 deg at the top end, and then retard to 5 Deg when starting..
The valve lifters is a concern if they are not a smooth transition on to the cam lobes, but it seems some isolated cases of bad wear....is this still an issue with ones that have done some 'time'?
The gaskets between the carb and the plastic heat insulation block is easy enough to remedy....we dont want unregulated air!
The thing that interests me the most is the crankcase lubrication system. From what I can see, there are TWO hoses from the crankcase to the inlet manifold, I dont see how they differ in function. One seems to be connected to the centerline of the crankcase, and the other lower down, and they are both connected to the inlet manifold. Why two? Is one to drain the oil? from what I can see from posts here is that one of them fills with oil during running...what I dont understand, since I dont have one, is WHY there is also a breather nipple on the cranckase underneath? Surely, if this is open to the atmosphere, then there WILL BE unregulated air coming into the crankcase from the breather and then through one or both of those tubes to the inlet manifold.....that is not good. Some have said that one of those pipes is just connected to the carb pulse point, which makes sense but even ONE of those venting through the crank is going to cause unregulated air.....surely....unless I am not seeing things as they are...

Thanks for any info you can pass on.

tyor

The two hoses is one for lubrication and one for pulses to the carb pump. I have 2 of this engine and they just run and run, never quit. so I dont think it is a problem with unregulated air trough that hose

cathurga

Tyor,
Thanks for your feedback. I hope that if I do take the plunge and get one of these, that it runs as well as yours. I have not kept track of everyones changes, but did you change the timing away from factory or are they stock.
I am sure that if they are running well you wouldnt want to change anything, but still dont know how this engine could possibly be running as well as it could, if there is air getting into the manifold, from an open source to the atmosphere, AFTER the carburettor, it doesnt make sense to me. Unless, and I dont know how they have done it, considered open air getting in like it does.
I am scratching my head here a little, just trying to work out the theory...

Regards