New Evolution 10cc gas engine
05-03-2014, 08:28 AM
#1777
If you can't get one from Horizon you should be able to use the one from Rcexl. The only question might be the resistor value.
http://www.rcexl.com/news/Accessories/6.html
http://www.rcexl.com/news/Accessories/6.html
05-03-2014, 09:16 AM
#1779
My Feedback: (10)
The muffler is horrible. Compare it to an os muffler. Half as thick and the centerbolt is only 2/3 the diamater or less. I swapped out the muffler from an os. No problems since with no modifications. I tried all of the recommended fixes. None would hold more than three to four flights before it was loose again.
05-03-2014, 02:18 PM
#1780
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Location: Fresno,
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My experience with my 10 CC has been mixed. When running properly, it peforms pretty well with power about the same as an OS 46 AX nitro engine. But, reliability has been inconsistant. The engine seems to quit suddenly with no apparent reason. It has done that off and on since new. The spark plug wire cap would not lock on to the plug from the start and had to be wired on to make it stay. The quiting thing has become worse over time and I can not get the engine to run at all not, just short spurts and pops. Yes, I have checked and cleaned the spark plug which did not help. I strongly suspect that the ignition has been a problem from the start. I have about 12 to 15 flights on the engine now since performing the recommended break-in. I also have a 20 CC engine but have had a much better experience with that engine.
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
Best wishes and good safe flying.
Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)
05-03-2014, 02:59 PM
#1781
I would say it will "fly" it but will it be enough to allow it to perform very well ? At 9+ pounds I'm not sure. I think the magic number for weight is 7lbs for very good performace on a plane with this engine. I've seen this plane fly at the field with electric and glow but I really don't know how well the plane flies as far as drag, efficiency, etc....
05-05-2014, 09:07 AM
#1782
My Feedback: (2)
2 questions
1. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 10GX
2. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 15GX
I need to take a carb apart to clean dirt out of it, however I've looked through both my manuals and several places I've read "if you have set the initial low speed needle valve correctly you will be within 1/16" of the correct setting... great.. but nowhere do I see how to initially set it correctly... I've read through both books 2-3 times now...I'm either missing it or its not there.
help?
1. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 10GX
2. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 15GX
I need to take a carb apart to clean dirt out of it, however I've looked through both my manuals and several places I've read "if you have set the initial low speed needle valve correctly you will be within 1/16" of the correct setting... great.. but nowhere do I see how to initially set it correctly... I've read through both books 2-3 times now...I'm either missing it or its not there.
help?
05-05-2014, 09:30 AM
#1783
2 questions
1. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 10GX
2. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 15GX
I need to take a carb apart to clean dirt out of it, however I've looked through both my manuals and several places I've read "if you have set the initial low speed needle valve correctly you will be within 1/16" of the correct setting... great.. but nowhere do I see how to initially set it correctly... I've read through both books 2-3 times now...I'm either missing it or its not there.
help?
1. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 10GX
2. what are the default starting needle valve settings for the low and high speed needle valves on the 15GX
I need to take a carb apart to clean dirt out of it, however I've looked through both my manuals and several places I've read "if you have set the initial low speed needle valve correctly you will be within 1/16" of the correct setting... great.. but nowhere do I see how to initially set it correctly... I've read through both books 2-3 times now...I'm either missing it or its not there.
help?
Baseline Needle Valve Settings
Your engine comes from the factory with the
needles set at the first run baseline settings
(High-Speed: 2 1/4 turns out, Low-Speed: 5
3/8 turns out). No adjustment is necessary.
If you find you need to move the carburetor
back to the baseline settings follow the
procedure below
Edit:
I don't see that section in the 15Gx manual. I have the 15GX too but I don't remember what the turns were when I set it up. That would be something for Pete/Horizon or someone with a new 15GX who could count the turns on both needles. I would say they are going to be close to the 10GX but that is just a guess.
Last edited by flyinwalenda; 05-05-2014 at 09:48 AM.
05-05-2014, 09:49 AM
#1784
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The base setting for the low speed assumes a 1.5 mm throttle opening. The engine comes with a special metal insert for making sure you have the proper throttle opening. I have somehow misplaced mine.
05-05-2014, 09:57 AM
#1785
My Feedback: (2)
Thanks Brian,
so thats the 10GX, Does the 15 use the same settings? I had only skimmed the 10GX manual as its the 15 that needs the cleaning, page 8 of the 15GX manual talks about telemetry then goes straight into startup procedure...
Telemetry is a huge asset to help you tune
your engine. The ignition module is even
capable of communicating with Spektrum
telemetry systems directly so you won’t have
to add an additional RPM sensor. You will
need to connect the Evolution Ignition
Telemetry Adapter (EVOA107) between the
RPM port on the ignition unit and the RPM
port on your Spektrum telemetry module in
order to utilize this feature. Telemetry systems
other than Spektrum may require a dedicated
RPM sensor.
We recommend using the Spektrum DSMX Full
Range Aircraft Telemetry Module (SPM9548)
in conjunction with the included adapter. This
system allows you to see real-time RPM and
temperature readings from the engine.
The temperature sensor should be wrapped
around the base of the spark plug on the
cylinder head. Using telemetry gives you an
accurate representation of actual temperature
and rpm figures during use, and warnings
can be set to go off if your engine is getting
too hot.
The temperature range can be 275–300ºF
on average. Set your maximum temperature
warning to go off if the engine exceeds 350ºF.
If your engine is continually near this peak
temperature or higher, immediately decrease
throttle to bring the temperature down. If this
continues to occur, land the airplane and add
additional baffling to your cowl. It is not good
for the engine to run at temperatures this high
and could cause damage if not attended to.
11
Now that you have the baseline needle valve
settings, you are ready to start your engine for
the first time. With the 15GX it is very
important to allow the temperature to
stabilize above 170°F (75°C) before making
any adjustments; adjusting prior to the engine
warming up will lead you to inaccurate
settings. As the engine warms up you will
notice the rpms naturally rising.
If you do not have a temp gun or have sensors
installed on your engine, allow the engine to
run at half throttle for at least 45 seconds before
attempting to set the high-speed needle.
If you have accurately set the low-speed
needle as described you should not need to
adjust it.
Priming
1. Make sure your ignition is off.
2. Open the throttle fully and, either by holding
a finger over the carburetor intake or
the muffler exhaust, flip the propeller 6
times.
3. Remove your finger from either the carburetor
or muffler exhaust and flip the engine
another 6 times.
4. Close the carburetor completely with your
throttle stick and then open it two detents
from closed. This will allow the engine to
start at a high throttle setting.
Because each fuel system and installation
is slightly different, you may find the need
to modify the above procedure for your
individual setup. The above procedure should
work for most installations.
so thats the 10GX, Does the 15 use the same settings? I had only skimmed the 10GX manual as its the 15 that needs the cleaning, page 8 of the 15GX manual talks about telemetry then goes straight into startup procedure...
Telemetry is a huge asset to help you tune
your engine. The ignition module is even
capable of communicating with Spektrum
telemetry systems directly so you won’t have
to add an additional RPM sensor. You will
need to connect the Evolution Ignition
Telemetry Adapter (EVOA107) between the
RPM port on the ignition unit and the RPM
port on your Spektrum telemetry module in
order to utilize this feature. Telemetry systems
other than Spektrum may require a dedicated
RPM sensor.
We recommend using the Spektrum DSMX Full
Range Aircraft Telemetry Module (SPM9548)
in conjunction with the included adapter. This
system allows you to see real-time RPM and
temperature readings from the engine.
The temperature sensor should be wrapped
around the base of the spark plug on the
cylinder head. Using telemetry gives you an
accurate representation of actual temperature
and rpm figures during use, and warnings
can be set to go off if your engine is getting
too hot.
The temperature range can be 275–300ºF
on average. Set your maximum temperature
warning to go off if the engine exceeds 350ºF.
If your engine is continually near this peak
temperature or higher, immediately decrease
throttle to bring the temperature down. If this
continues to occur, land the airplane and add
additional baffling to your cowl. It is not good
for the engine to run at temperatures this high
and could cause damage if not attended to.
11
Now that you have the baseline needle valve
settings, you are ready to start your engine for
the first time. With the 15GX it is very
important to allow the temperature to
stabilize above 170°F (75°C) before making
any adjustments; adjusting prior to the engine
warming up will lead you to inaccurate
settings. As the engine warms up you will
notice the rpms naturally rising.
If you do not have a temp gun or have sensors
installed on your engine, allow the engine to
run at half throttle for at least 45 seconds before
attempting to set the high-speed needle.
If you have accurately set the low-speed
needle as described you should not need to
adjust it.
Priming
1. Make sure your ignition is off.
2. Open the throttle fully and, either by holding
a finger over the carburetor intake or
the muffler exhaust, flip the propeller 6
times.
3. Remove your finger from either the carburetor
or muffler exhaust and flip the engine
another 6 times.
4. Close the carburetor completely with your
throttle stick and then open it two detents
from closed. This will allow the engine to
start at a high throttle setting.
Because each fuel system and installation
is slightly different, you may find the need
to modify the above procedure for your
individual setup. The above procedure should
work for most installations.
Check out page #11 of the 10GX manual:
Baseline Needle Valve Settings
Your engine comes from the factory with the
needles set at the first run baseline settings
(High-Speed: 2 1/4 turns out, Low-Speed: 5
3/8 turns out). No adjustment is necessary.
If you find you need to move the carburetor
back to the baseline settings follow the
procedure below
Baseline Needle Valve Settings
Your engine comes from the factory with the
needles set at the first run baseline settings
(High-Speed: 2 1/4 turns out, Low-Speed: 5
3/8 turns out). No adjustment is necessary.
If you find you need to move the carburetor
back to the baseline settings follow the
procedure below
05-09-2014, 05:35 PM
#1790
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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LOL.........so I have a little under 1/2 gallon thru my engine; using a 10X6 APC Sport prop. The engine is running pretty good right now but will sometimes die on me when I throttle back after a full throttle climb.......like when doing a stall turn and I've started my vertical downline. I put an "idle up" on a switch and that has helped.
I changed the prop to a 11X7 today but before I did I put a tach on the 10X6......15,400 rpms at full throttle; the 11X7 is spinning at 11,400. The engine has a nice idle around 2400 rpms (no forward roll on pavement) and the idle up is approx 3400 rpms. Probably won't even try a 12X6 at this time; the 11X7 seems to pull the plane around pretty good for SPA Novice class.
I changed the prop to a 11X7 today but before I did I put a tach on the 10X6......15,400 rpms at full throttle; the 11X7 is spinning at 11,400. The engine has a nice idle around 2400 rpms (no forward roll on pavement) and the idle up is approx 3400 rpms. Probably won't even try a 12X6 at this time; the 11X7 seems to pull the plane around pretty good for SPA Novice class.
05-14-2014, 06:24 PM
#1791
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: MARIETTA, GA
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Falcon,
I have a NIB Tower Kaos 40 ARF that I was going to fly with an OS56 fourstroke, but I recently acquired an Evo 10cc gas engine. The mounting dimensions are the same as a 46 or 55. What do you think?
We had met a few years ago at an SPA contest in Paulding County. Hope to fly some SPA soon!
Thanks,
Cesar
I have a NIB Tower Kaos 40 ARF that I was going to fly with an OS56 fourstroke, but I recently acquired an Evo 10cc gas engine. The mounting dimensions are the same as a 46 or 55. What do you think?
We had met a few years ago at an SPA contest in Paulding County. Hope to fly some SPA soon!
Thanks,
Cesar
05-25-2014, 06:45 PM
#1792
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: , OK
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My 10cc is giving me fits......I can get it to run great wide open, and idle. I'll be taxing around the yard great. It will idle a full tank out no problem. It doesn't go lean when held vertical at idle or wide open. Now, for the problem.....If I go from idle to wide open fast it will 85-90% of the time perfectly, jumps wide open. 10-15% of the time it will sputter and quit. Like, if you are going around and open it up, it will die......I have it on a new plane, and I'm about ready to pull it off and sell it. I don't want to trash this plane!
Any ideas?? I have re-plumbed the entire tank today, checked the clunk, reset the needle valves.....I'm running a APC 12x6 prop, 91oct fuel with Husqvarna oil, all mixed fresh today also, poured the other tank into the mower to see if that changed anything, nope.....Still runs the same.
IDEAS???
Thanks,
Chris
Any ideas?? I have re-plumbed the entire tank today, checked the clunk, reset the needle valves.....I'm running a APC 12x6 prop, 91oct fuel with Husqvarna oil, all mixed fresh today also, poured the other tank into the mower to see if that changed anything, nope.....Still runs the same.
IDEAS???
Thanks,
Chris
05-25-2014, 09:15 PM
#1794
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tacoma,
WA
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My 10cc is giving me fits......I can get it to run great wide open, and idle. I'll be taxing around the yard great. It will idle a full tank out no problem. It doesn't go lean when held vertical at idle or wide open. Now, for the problem.....If I go from idle to wide open fast it will 85-90% of the time perfectly, jumps wide open. 10-15% of the time it will sputter and quit. Like, if you are going around and open it up, it will die......I have it on a new plane, and I'm about ready to pull it off and sell it. I don't want to trash this plane! Any ideas?? I have re-plumbed the entire tank today, checked the clunk, reset the needle valves.....I'm running a APC 12x6 prop, 91oct fuel with Husqvarna oil, all mixed fresh today also, poured the other tank into the mower to see if that changed anything, nope.....Still runs the same. IDEAS??? Thanks,Chris
05-26-2014, 03:08 AM
#1795
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: saluda,
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Ernie is right..i had to open my low end around 1/4 to 1/2 round more on low end..Have to be patient with this engine..May want to use the smaller prop like the book says on first couple of flights..i would keep the load off the engine with larger props until you have run several tanks in the air..the abc cylinder set up on gas makes it little tempermental until its broken in..then its same every flight..Just don't let it idle too low while breaking in..Keep some throttle too engine while flying..Its a different engine from what you are used too with glow.You can start leaning the low side back down once its broken in some..
05-26-2014, 04:13 AM
#1796
You don't say how many gallons of fuel are through it . It takes a long time to fully break-in and along the way the low&high needles need to be tweaked . As others have stated , the low end needs some adjusting. This has to be done using very small turns then adjust the high end and fly it ....lather, rinse, repeat . It's much easier to tune once several gallons have gone through it. Had mine out for the first time this year and had to make a tiny adjustment to the low end and that was it.
Perhaps start over and reset the barrel adjustment and then the needles .
Perhaps start over and reset the barrel adjustment and then the needles .
05-26-2014, 10:42 PM
#1797
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Tacoma,
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Ernie is right..i had to open my low end around 1/4 to 1/2 round more on low end..Have to be patient with this engine..May want to use the smaller prop like the book says on first couple of flights..i would keep the load off the engine with larger props until you have run several tanks in the air..the abc cylinder set up on gas makes it little tempermental until its broken in..then its same every flight..Just don't let it idle too low while breaking in..Keep some throttle too engine while flying..Its a different engine from what you are used too with glow.You can start leaning the low side back down once its broken in some..
05-28-2014, 03:25 PM
#1798
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I have about a gallon thru it. It ran ok all weekend, but I was afraid to ever slam it wide open in fear of it quitting. I thought that would be a sign of it running to lean on the low end, die when accelerating. I do the fuel line test, (pull it off while running) and it just keeps running till it quits, like it's the perfect needle setting, not speeding up or slowing down. I'm going to break my other one in on the test stand and let it run all weekend long to hopefully solve this problem!
I got my muffler to stay on with lock tite, but it's still making Black goo from the joint in it. The exhaust is still pretty bad, but better than it was at first. I went with gas thinking it would be cleaner....
I did the break-in per the book, 10x6, 11x6, and now a 12x6 prop. Planning on going to a 13x4 or 5 soon for some more thrust.....Flying on a high wing Hobbistar .60 I made like a bush plane, so I want thrust not speed.....
I got my muffler to stay on with lock tite, but it's still making Black goo from the joint in it. The exhaust is still pretty bad, but better than it was at first. I went with gas thinking it would be cleaner....
I did the break-in per the book, 10x6, 11x6, and now a 12x6 prop. Planning on going to a 13x4 or 5 soon for some more thrust.....Flying on a high wing Hobbistar .60 I made like a bush plane, so I want thrust not speed.....
05-28-2014, 03:56 PM
#1799
This is an ABC engine so it takes a long time to fully break-in. After 2-3 gallons the deposits get less but it will never be as clean as a ringed engine on a lighter mix. After 3 gallons I get some slop on first starts(probably too much prime) but the running deposits are lighter than a typical glow engine.
Get that muffler tight. Take it apart and re-do it. That small leak will create running issues.
Get that muffler tight. Take it apart and re-do it. That small leak will create running issues.
05-28-2014, 04:58 PM
#1800
Join Date: Jul 2002
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I have about a gallon thru it. It ran ok all weekend, but I was afraid to ever slam it wide open in fear of it quitting. I thought that would be a sign of it running to lean on the low end, die when accelerating. I do the fuel line test, (pull it off while running) and it just keeps running till it quits, like it's the perfect needle setting, not speeding up or slowing down. I'm going to break my other one in on the test stand and let it run all weekend long to hopefully solve this problem!
I got my muffler to stay on with lock tite, but it's still making Black goo from the joint in it. The exhaust is still pretty bad, but better than it was at first. I went with gas thinking it would be cleaner....
I did the break-in per the book, 10x6, 11x6, and now a 12x6 prop. Planning on going to a 13x4 or 5 soon for some more thrust.....Flying on a high wing Hobbistar .60 I made like a bush plane, so I want thrust not speed..... Nice STOL job on the bush plane!!!
I got my muffler to stay on with lock tite, but it's still making Black goo from the joint in it. The exhaust is still pretty bad, but better than it was at first. I went with gas thinking it would be cleaner....
I did the break-in per the book, 10x6, 11x6, and now a 12x6 prop. Planning on going to a 13x4 or 5 soon for some more thrust.....Flying on a high wing Hobbistar .60 I made like a bush plane, so I want thrust not speed..... Nice STOL job on the bush plane!!!