Heli-NuBee

Yup, the Evo 10 CC engine powered Pheonix Spitfire performed very well today. I guess the spark plug was the problem.

Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

superfli

My Feedback: (42)

Take a look at the old plug. See if you can turn the white insulator. If it will turn you were loosing compression.

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

Awesome man... glad you got it running!!!

My rules for these small gassers is to always keep a couple spare plugs on hand... its solved a couple odd problems for me...

mpascual

My Feedback: (1)

Try the iridium spark plug from RCEXL.
On gas engines, it last longer than standard spark plug and give you better idle.
Unfortunately, the iridium spark plug does not work well with methanol fuel on nitro to gas conversions , becausee the spark acts as a glow-plug with the iridium tip.

Regards

Heli-NuBee

Here are a few pictures of my Evo 10 CC engine in action.



Best wishes and good safe flying.

Heli-NuBee (AKA Roger the radial rabbit)

Fixit49

I to had the spark plug cap come apart on me when I was fitting the cowl on a plane. Broke at the 90 degree bend causing a no start condition due to no ground for the CDI ign unit. Replace by Hoizion under warranty. Very careful when removing cap for engine maintenance .

JoeyCoates

Well, after doing a lot of reading I went ahead and ordered a 10GX for my Kadet Senior ARF, this will be my first time using a gas engine in over 30 years of flying. It is going to replace a RCV60-sp that while a neat engine is really kind of gutless, and it does not idle down very well at all even with an onboard glow system. Getting the Kadet down with the RCV turning a 16x12 prop at 2000 rpm's is not always real easy. It is also a heavy engine at 21oz so the 10GX is only 1oz heavier and as I mentioned there is already an onboard glow so the weight of the extra battery should wash. Anyway, I am expecting much better performance out of the Evo engine as well. It is rated at 1.68hp whereas the RCV is rated at .9hp and it flies like it. I had to do a slight dive to pick up speed just to do a loop!

I do have a question though, do you think that this engine would be capable of running a smoke system? I have never tried one before as I have heard that glow does not run hot enough to do a lot of good, but gas engines do. I would think that I might have to use a different muffler although I do not know this, anyone have an idea as to what muffler I could use for this size engine/mounting pattern that is made for smoke? The kadet has plenty of wing area to carry the load, I was able to fly it off of water even with the RCV even though it was not very robust. I know it is not a performance aircraft, but the slow speed might make for a nice thick smoke plume with the correct setup.

Any tips are appreciated!

josephcraig

The 10cc is a great engine.Only thing is the evo 10 takes a while to break in.So don't get expect to run perfect until couple of gallons has been burned.Lot of guys have bought the macs muffler cause the original is not easy to seal up.I tried everything with the factory muffler using sealers.I ended up taking it apart and removing orings between center extention and using no sealer and tighten it and first couple of flights and had no more problems.Make sure you use fuel tank filter and extra fuel filter.I have both 10 and 15cc.I run my low speed needle richer than factory setting on both engines and tune high side down once broken in.Just my preference.Others may tell you different,Throttle response seems so much better this way and pulls so much better.Hope this helps.This needle setup may not work for you.It has a wide band that will work on low end needle.Good luck.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

As previously mentioned read through this thread and you will find all of the tips and tricks. Yes it does take a long time to properly break-in and along the way you need to keep fiddling with the adjustments but when you get over the hump the engine comes alive and you will not have to touch the tuning much.

As far as a smoke system, I would be leery of it as the engine's carb really requires good pressure from the exhaust to run properly. I am not sure how the carb will react after injecting smoke fluid into the muffler to burn. If I were to experiment I would try it well after 3 gallons have been burned and it is well broken-in.

JoeyCoates

Thanks guys, I have started to read though the whole thread, a lot of pages to read. I believe I might have a Pitts muffler running around somewhere, is there any performance difference when using a Pitts style muffler? I had it on a 55ax in a Funtana X50 but later switched to a Tower 46 muffler. I could hardly believe the difference, gained 900 rpms same fuel and prop by going to that $15 muffler.... Anyway, I will go ahead and get to reading, I am looking forward to my first foray into gas engines.

josephcraig

I may have worded the needle settings a little wrong.You may have to run low side little richer to begin with until broken in and then lean as needed until broken in..Seemed to work for me.

JoeyCoates

Well, so far I have only had a chance to run my engine once before mounting it in a Phoenix Models Decathlon. The airframe calls for a 46-55 2c so I am hoping that the gx10 pulls it along nicely but not expecting unlimited vertical either.

Anyway, the question that I have for you guys has to do with my cowl opening size and exhaust area. This is my first gas engine and I know that they tend to run hotter and need more cooling than equivalent glow. I have the off cylinder side of the cow set up with a baffle to direct incoming air onto the engine and the cylinder side opening has been opened up some to un-shroud the carb venturi. I am going to include some pictures. So do I have enough of an opening or should I do something else to the cowl? I really do not want to overheat it.

Thanks

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I would suggest you leave the cowl off for a while, to get to know the engine a little AND too make sure nothing you have going on with the cowl is making it overheat. The experience of running without will let you know about any issues right away when you put it on. The idea of blocking the one side is probably a good one.

I have this same combo ready to maiden, but I went with the engine on it's side and a Bison Pitts muffler. Not sure I would do that again because the engine sits very high within the cowl. We'll see how it all works out.

Mods include rudder servo in back (for increased options when it comes to setting the CG), and carbon fiber tube installed in the really soft alum. struts. The rest of the package all looks good. It's right at 7lbs ready to go. Looking forward to the chance to maiden... -Al

JoeyCoates

That sounds like a pretty good idea. I actually mounted all three servos it the rear opening on the radio tray instead of the middle opening where the instructions call for. I then made a tray in the area the servos were supposed to be in for the battery and reciever, I will post a picture on the build thread though instead of high jacking this thread. I think your idea for breaking in with cowl off probably sounds the best though. I have an eagle tree telemetry system but I need to order a new temp sensor as the old one split. I will more than likely put it in for a while to monitor Temps with cowl off and then once installed to see where I am at.

Thanks

karolh

The section of the engine that needs cooling most is the cylinder and ideally one should try to direct incoming air in and around the cylinder fins. The other area of major concern is getting rid of hot air from the exhaust as quickly as possible, hence the rule of thumb of having the exit hole 3 times the size of the inlet, not always necessary depending on the install but a good reference point.

Karol

jspauld2

Unfortunately the 3 to 1 rule is not a good starting point. Pe Reivers had a really, really good forum that had research, examples, and information regarding cooling of model engines (as well as dis-proving the 3 to 1 rule). I just noticed that it has been removed, so unfortunately I can't hyperlink to it. Sometimes it works out that the 3 to 1 rule will work in a particular installation, but it has nothing to do with the rule itself being correct. It is always best to use telemetry or testing when you begin cowling an engine to determine if you have enough cooling air moving through a cowl. Pressure differences cause air to move from one location to another. One good way to create a low-pressure zone is to add a ramp (or louvers) to an exit hole. This does not always make sense for a scale airplane, but it is an effective way to provide some airflow.

Keeping track of temperatures when cutting holes in your cowl is the best way to monitor the effectiveness of your cooling. There is no magical formula that will work for every airplane installation.

Thanks,
Jimmy

JoeyCoates

I placed an order for a few more temp sensors for the Eagle Tree system and I already have the remote dashboard that can be set to sound an alarm once a preset temp is reached. What cylinder head temp would you start to get concerned at? I already have the system installed in the airframe, I just need to hook it up to the computer and complete the programing and presets at this point and then it is ready to go.

Thanks

denonpmb

Hello folks, wow, long history on this thread. I just bought an EVO 10GX, and was anticipating putting it in my Escapade 52.5". This plane is somewhat overpowered with the current OS FS 70, but was wondering if anyone else has tried the Evo in it? The plane flies beautifully, but not positive where I would fit the ignition module and extra battery.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I can help regarding the second battery. Go with an 18-2300 mah LiFe for your flight pack, and use that to power the ign. module as well. No problems.

jspauld2

Sorry for taking so long to reply. I would set your alarm to go off at 300°F. If you can maintain the operating temperature below this, the engine should be getting enough cooling. If it is consistently above 300, reconsider the cooling.

Thanks,
Jimmy

JoeyCoates

Thanks Jimmy

denonpmb

I understand the ability to do that, but I hesitate to do this because although I used BEC circuitry in my RC cars, I dont like the idea of my Rx battery becoming drained. I can handle deadstick landings, but "dead plane" landings are a different story. Based on the current flight characteristics of this plane, I think it can handle the extra battery weight just fine. I was hoping some others with this Plane/engine combo could weigh in on how it flies.
the new engine arrived yesterday and I am really eager to get it ready to go and sew how it performs.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Planes are not like a car running an ESC. I've never seen the scenario you describe (leading to dead receiver).

First, to be concerned about draining an 1800-2300mah LiFe, you'll have been flying for quite a while. I've been flying a DLE 20 powered 70" Revolver on a single battery setup for 3 seasons now, with big digital servos on everything. It's been proven to fly 7 to 8 flights between charges routinely, and this plane is generally flown pretty hard. Not something that's just going up for a few laps with some touch and goes thrown in. Because the 2200 mah genuine A123 is not being pushed hard at all with this setup, it's generally charged every other outing. That why I suggested an 1800 might be plenty for your application?

Second, if the battery voltage were to drop into dangerous territory, the ignition module will put the engine into "limp mode" causing the engine to loose power, but it will STAY RUNNING, enabling you to land with the engine running! Going around may be a little dicey though....

Third, these optical switches also demand a solid signal from the receiver telling it to maintain power to the ign. module. If, for whatever reason, that signal is lost or erratic, the switch will shut your engine down. Your receiver at this point, should still be on line.

My point is that if you end up with a dead receiver in the air due to a low/dead battery, the engine will have quit long before that. The battery sizes I've suggested should allow plenty of flying time, and, the setup I'm suggesting is a popular one, often used up into the 50cc class planes.

denonpmb

Thank you for the explanation.About 2/3rds of the folks at my flying field fly large gas engines and they mostly reciprocated what you said. Good information, and also avoids the extra battery weight and additional charge jack, so I suppose that is the way I will go. I still hope someone might pop in with one running in this same plane to let me know how they view its performance. I expect that it should be almost as good as the FS 70 currently in the plane.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Looking at the commonly used prop sizes, my bet would be you'll get similar performance - once the 10 is broken in.