New Evolution 10cc gas engine
07-25-2015, 02:02 PM
#2076
The CDI ignitions supplied with the EVO gassers are designed to be run on up to a 2S lipo. Even the old ignitions that were strickly limited to 4 cell battery input could get flakey with a battery that was not holding up under load. Running these new HV ignitions on 4 cell Nimh is marginal at best.
When you get down to the 10cc size, ditching the second battery and going with an IBEC is a good move.
Pete
When you get down to the 10cc size, ditching the second battery and going with an IBEC is a good move.
Pete
One problem I found, that is common to most of the CDI's that say they will work with 4.8 volts to 8.4 volts, is that they are very sensitive to lower voltages compared to the old CDI's. BTW the 4.8 volt number is not really a "minimum" voltage, it is a "nominal" number, it actually represents about 4.1 to 5.8 volts for the operating voltage depending on the battery type. They won't work with lower voltages like the old CDI's that were designed for 6 volts MAX.
If an ignition battery eliminator circuit (IBEC) is used with a 4.8 volt pack, the ignition will be getting about 1.2 volts LESS than the battery voltage. The new CDI's will quit at about 3.2 volts, at the input to the ignition, which means 4.4 volts at the battery. The old 4.8 to 6 volt range CDI's would work with a battery voltage down to 4 volts, or about 2.8 volts at the CDI, so they did not have the problem unless the battery voltage dipped lower than 4 volts during aggressive flying.
I found this out when I used an IBEC in order to get an electronic switch to cut off the ignition. With the 4 cell NIMH battery pack, the setup would only work with fresh batteries, after a few minutes, or under a heavy load, like knife edge flight, the battery voltage would drop too low for the CDI to work properly and the engine would run rough and much slower.
The bottom line is that the new CDI's need about 400 more millivolts, on the low end, to operate than the old CDI's. I'm sure that was the design trade-off to get the expanded voltage range of 4.8 to 8.4 volts (actually 3.2 volts on the low end) from the old range of 4.8 to 6 volts (actually 2.8 volts on the low end) without doing a major design change. The manufacturers have never said that the "actual" minimum voltage for their ignitions have gone up by 0.4 volts. The NIMH five cell pack, or 2S pack will prevent the low voltage problems with the new ignitions.
Last edited by Joystick TX; 07-26-2015 at 05:17 PM. Reason: Correct error, reversed low end voltage
07-26-2015, 05:14 PM
#2077
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I just bought this and installed it on my Kadet Senior as a radio test plane. Haven't read the entire thread but is anyone using a different fuel mixure other than 20-1? Engine runs very nicely, better than I expected.
Last edited by DCGayhart; 07-26-2015 at 05:17 PM.
07-27-2015, 03:56 AM
#2079
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X2. To avoid multiple mixtures laying around, I switched the 20's and 30's I run over to 20:1 as well. Yes, a little more oil on the bellies of those, but not enough to make it worth messing with multiple gas cans. No other noticeable down side after 2 seasons now.
07-27-2015, 04:15 AM
#2080
If you decrease the amount of oil, you decrease the life of the engine. That may not be a big issue if you don't fly a lot.
Before I got sick, I was flying one of my planes, with a 30cc engine on it, 300 to 400 hours per year. I ran 2-1/2 to 3 gallons of fuel a week through it. My engine would need an overhaul or major repair, usually bearings, at around 500 hours. That is about 10 years of flying for most people.
If I used 50% less oil I would NOT expect to get 250 hours, it won't be linear, with half of the recommended oil I may only get 125 hours before something breaks or wears out. Oil plays a big part in keeping the engine cool. The manufacturers do a lot of testing to determine the "optimum" oil required for each engine design. They do error on the side of more oil is better, by a small amount, to allow for engine mounting in free air vs cowled and hot vs cold days.
More oil means more goo and possible plug fouling, what the manufacturer recommends is the optimum, and less oil means more engine wear. Pick one.
Last edited by Joystick TX; 07-27-2015 at 04:20 AM.
07-27-2015, 06:20 AM
#2081
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Thanks for the quick reply. I fly a lot. I have gas engine from 10cc to 215cc. DA to Moki. All the others get 40-1, guess i'll keep a small can around for the little bugger!
07-27-2015, 08:17 AM
#2082
I would love to know how that Kadet does with this engine. I have/had a .65 Satito in mine. Plume worn it out I put so many hours on it. I will rebuild the engine. Just want know how well it powers the plane and if it cruises the plane at maybe 1/2 throttle.
ken
ken
10-02-2015, 07:29 AM
#2085
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I now have three gallons of fuel through this engine. It's a nice little engine. Thinking of buying the Seagull Radial Rocket for it. Who make an in-cowl muffler that works well with this engine?
10-07-2015, 03:59 AM
#2086
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Any thoughts on an external fuel pump VS pressuring from the exhaust?
My 10cc / Meridian was out at the club after about a two months, wouldn't start to save it's life. Disassembled the carb at the field and found it to be full of black deposits - what i am guessing to be residue from the exhaust. So just thinking out loud to put some kind of fuel pump that would eliminate that dirty feedback to the fuel system.
Other than this, it's a great little engine.
My 10cc / Meridian was out at the club after about a two months, wouldn't start to save it's life. Disassembled the carb at the field and found it to be full of black deposits - what i am guessing to be residue from the exhaust. So just thinking out loud to put some kind of fuel pump that would eliminate that dirty feedback to the fuel system.
Other than this, it's a great little engine.
10-07-2015, 05:05 AM
#2088
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Any thoughts on an external fuel pump VS pressuring from the exhaust?
My 10cc / Meridian was out at the club after about a two months, wouldn't start to save it's life. Disassembled the carb at the field and found it to be full of black deposits - what i am guessing to be residue from the exhaust. So just thinking out loud to put some kind of fuel pump that would eliminate that dirty feedback to the fuel system.
Other than this, it's a great little engine.
My 10cc / Meridian was out at the club after about a two months, wouldn't start to save it's life. Disassembled the carb at the field and found it to be full of black deposits - what i am guessing to be residue from the exhaust. So just thinking out loud to put some kind of fuel pump that would eliminate that dirty feedback to the fuel system.
Other than this, it's a great little engine.
10-08-2015, 08:14 AM
#2089
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And speak of the devil! A new pumped Evo10 is out
http://www.horizonhobby.com/10gx-10c...etor-evoe10gx2
http://www.horizonhobby.com/10gx-10c...etor-evoe10gx2
10-08-2015, 12:37 PM
#2090
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And to save you the trouble of looking, the carb is on back order (35.00). Ordered one anyway.
Really looking forward to a chance to ring one of these out with the new carb....
Have one of these on the way:
http://www.generalhobby.com/skyline-...een-p-359.html
Really looking forward to a chance to ring one of these out with the new carb....
Have one of these on the way:
http://www.generalhobby.com/skyline-...een-p-359.html
Last edited by ahicks; 10-08-2015 at 12:41 PM.
10-09-2015, 05:58 AM
#2095
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I haven't seen where they put the port on the 10cc engine, but there were some pics of the 8cc engine floating around with this carb installed, that showed the port installed in a transfer port right behind the carb.
Myself, I don't think specific location that important, as long as you are somewhere within the crankcase pressurized zone. The bigger deal will be to select a place with sufficient "meat" to hold the threaded fitting. I'm pretty sure once a few are done a good place to install will become known/popular. Shouldn't be that big a deal afterward. -Al
Myself, I don't think specific location that important, as long as you are somewhere within the crankcase pressurized zone. The bigger deal will be to select a place with sufficient "meat" to hold the threaded fitting. I'm pretty sure once a few are done a good place to install will become known/popular. Shouldn't be that big a deal afterward. -Al
10-09-2015, 07:23 AM
#2096
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It looks to me like the case is drilled in the same location as the 15cc engine. That should be an easy mod if it has enough meat as AHICKS stated. The BIG improvement I see is the muffler. It looks like it is only 2 pieces not 3. DC let us know how it looks. If it does not leak I will order one with a new carb.
Bruce
Bruce
10-10-2015, 09:13 AM
#2099
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Just arrived. If you wanted a smaller muffler sorry this one is 7/8 inch longer. Muffler has no pressure tap and the long bolt holding it together is gone. I'm assuming it will be cleaned than the former. They did include a silicon exhaust diverter. The filtered clunk is not included. I'll try and run it tomorrow.
Last edited by DCGayhart; 10-10-2015 at 09:16 AM.
10-10-2015, 09:54 AM
#2100
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I just read the manual and the filtered clunk should be included. I will call Horizon Monday. The exhaust muffler exit cannot be rotated hence the diverter. Will be interesting to see how it reacts to my 12oz tank. Small props and breaking tomorrow.
