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Old 01-26-2016, 06:03 AM
  #2151  
ahicks
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As one that's just replaced a crank due to a badly worn crankpin, and hearing how quite a few others have gone through the same, I hesitate a little saying prior to saying good.

That said, I'm willing to recognize the fact there is very likely a metallurgy issue (lack of proper hardening) in play. Stuff like that easy to get wrong on new engines. My hope is that issue has been fixed on the newer engines, as well as the replacement cranks they're selling. Regarding that, the jury is still out and will be for another year or so. It's going to take a while for them to prove they have it right this time.

Note that other 10cc engine manf's are suggesting that much leaner oil ratios are OK to run once broken in - and I haven't heard much about bottom end issues with those engines. Could be better bottom ends, or just as likely, not as many of them actually flying, getting enough time on them to start showing issues. Time will tell. The 10cc class is still young....
Old 01-26-2016, 07:01 AM
  #2152  
DCGayhart
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I have owned three. The first was the unpumped and with the exception of the sensitive needle I think they a wonderful little engines. I still have two of the pumped ones and they run great. The carb fastening screw fell out of my newest engine and I'm going to call Horizon today for a replacment. Horizon has been great to deal with so far.
Old 01-26-2016, 08:33 AM
  #2153  
DCGayhart
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Originally Posted by DCGayhart
I have owned three. The first was the unpumped and with the exception of the sensitive needle I think they a wonderful little engines. I still have two of the pumped ones and they run great. The carb fastening screw fell out of my newest engine and I'm going to call Horizon today for a replacment. Horizon has been great to deal with so far.
Horizon is sending me a replacement carb retainer draw bar set for free. I suggest current owners of the EVO 10cc check theirs.
Old 01-26-2016, 08:56 AM
  #2154  
ahicks
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Good plan. If you haven't already done so recently, checking the fuel inlet nipple to make sure it's snug, may be a good plan as well.

During my carb update this past weekend, I noted they're still using a very similar gasket, if not the same one, on that inlet nipple. That's the one that disintegrated/turned to mush on both of my engines. Home made gasket transferred to it to prevent another round of issues caused by that. -Al
Old 01-26-2016, 02:12 PM
  #2155  
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Originally Posted by silverwings
jspauld2,
If I send my crankcase in to Horizon, will they install the pressure tap in it for me?
Rick
Rick, unfortunately we are unable to do that. We can provide the parts, but you will have to make the change yourself as we cannot guarantee the engine after the modifications.

Originally Posted by ahicks
Those considering updating their older Evo10 engines with the new pumped carb might want to reconsider.....
.....
Yes, it's out of warranty. -Al
Ahicks, if you wish to send your engine in we would take care of it regardless of the warranty period. As others have said, there were some metallurgy issues early on. We will stand behind this product and I recognize that this issue was not your fault. PM me if you wish to get the engine fixed and I will get it taken care of.

Edit: I just re-read your later post and it seems like you already replaced the crank. Either way PM me if you have any other problems.

Thanks,
Jimmy
Old 01-26-2016, 04:59 PM
  #2156  
hairy46
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My Evolution 10 is new in box. But that said it is a out two years old. Run it or make any changes?
Old 01-27-2016, 06:13 AM
  #2157  
DCGayhart
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Originally Posted by ahicks
Note that other 10cc engine manf's are suggesting that much leaner oil ratios are OK to run once broken in - and I haven't heard much about bottom end issues with those engines. Could be better bottom ends, or just as likely, not as many of them actually flying, getting enough time on them to start showing issues. Time will tell. The 10cc class is still young....
Has anyone tried using less oil in the 10cc after the break-in? I now carry two can of fuel to the field. 20/1 for 10cc, 40/1 for my DA and DLE engines. Sure would make it simpler if I could us one fuel. By the way I have been using 40/1 in DLE for years with no problems. I use Redline synthetic oil with premium gasoline.
Old 01-27-2016, 06:23 AM
  #2158  
DCGayhart
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Originally Posted by hairy46
My Evolution 10 is new in box. But that said it is a out two years old. Run it or make any changes?
I would say it depends on you application. If your airframe allows you to mount the recommended tank on the center line of the carb the engine should run fine. When you tune the engine make sure you hold the plane in a vertical position at full throttle to confirm it doesn't lean out to much when the fuel is low (treat it like a two stroke glow engine).
Old 01-27-2016, 07:17 AM
  #2159  
ahicks
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Test flew the new pumped carb setup yesterday. Tank located all the way back against the wing tube, and unlimited vertical, with no sagging/change in note of engine still possible. It's easily pulling fuel a good 14" in this install.

Also noted that dry carb startup was very easy compared to bigger gassers. I was expecting it to take forever, but very pleasantly surprised when it coughed to life after cranking just a few seconds. Original carb much harder to start after just running it out of gas....

Needle adjustments settled right in. Carb came preset pretty rich. Experience taught me the 5 3/8 low setting should be closer to 5 so I started there. High was set on ground by peaking. After flying found the high was one click rich and low was spot on (sea level/air temp 70 degrees).

Bottom line, I really wish this carb would have been on it when I got it. Buyers of the new engines will be playing with something done right. Nicely done Horizon!
-Al
Old 01-27-2016, 07:35 AM
  #2160  
jjoos99
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Originally Posted by ahicks
Test flew the new pumped carb setup yesterday. Tank located all the way back against the wing tube, and unlimited vertical, with no sagging/change in note of engine still possible. It's easily pulling fuel a good 14" in this install.

Also noted that dry carb startup was very easy compared to bigger gassers. I was expecting it to take forever, but very pleasantly surprised when it coughed to life after cranking just a few seconds. Original carb much harder to start after just running it out of gas....

Needle adjustments settled right in. Carb came preset pretty rich. Experience taught me the 5 3/8 low setting should be closer to 5 so I started there. High was set on ground by peaking. After flying found the high was one click rich and low was spot on (sea level/air temp 70 degrees).

Bottom line, I really wish this carb would have been on it when I got it. Buyers of the new engines will be playing with something done right. Nicely done Horizon!
-Al
so what do you think Al, I have my engine that has only been run once on the ground. Engine is about 1 1/2 years old. Should I just go ahead and buy the pumped carb and drill the crankcase? I bought this plane for my katana and on my maiden flight day I had the wings leaned up against the truck and backed out of the garage and ran right over the wing. Crushed the wing several inches back from the leading edge. Just got it rebuilt and will be ready to fly it this spring.
thanks
jeff
Old 01-27-2016, 08:47 AM
  #2161  
ahicks
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Hard to make that call for you Jeff.

Pulling the engine down, picking a good location for the pulse port, drilling and tapping, cleaning, then reassembling? Some will have no trouble with any of that. Others might be a little hesitant with some or all of those operations? I enjoy doing this kind of thing and have been doing it since I was a kid.

If you're up for it, I say sure, it's worth the trouble for those looking to get 100% from their engines and consistency is important. Somebody flying it in a Cub or a trainer that's not flown over 1/2 throttle often? Maybe not so much.

Regarding having the work done for you, maybe not so apparent on first thought is the potential bonus of a chance to have them check out your crankshaft while the engine is apart? -Al
Old 01-27-2016, 04:12 PM
  #2162  
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Originally Posted by DCGayhart
Has anyone tried using less oil in the 10cc after the break-in? I now carry two can of fuel to the field. 20/1 for 10cc, 40/1 for my DA and DLE engines. Sure would make it simpler if I could us one fuel. By the way I have been using 40/1 in DLE for years with no problems. I use Redline synthetic oil with premium gasoline.
Wouldn't even consider it. Been running 20:1 Klotz after 1g of 20:1 dino-oil and it's still going strong.
Old 01-27-2016, 05:29 PM
  #2163  
hairy46
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Thank you!
Old 01-30-2016, 05:39 AM
  #2164  
DCGayhart
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I read a report on it in the latest AMA mag about the OS GGT 10. They said they couldn't get it to idle under 3000. I'd love to see one first hand.

Last edited by DCGayhart; 01-30-2016 at 05:41 AM.
Old 02-08-2016, 02:58 PM
  #2165  
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Default Os gt 10

That could be true. I have had one for around 6 months. I do like the engine. It is a powerhouse. I run 40/1 fuel mix. I have had a very difficult time with the low end as I messed it up when I first got the engine. Finding the sweet spot has been a challenge. The reason your able to run a 40/1 mix in this motor is because it has bearings where as the Evo is a bushing motor. You will need to always run your mix at 20/1 on the Evo. Overall I would take the OS over the Evo any day. I also have the OS GT 15. I have not had a bit of problems with that one. It runs and idols perfectly.

Superfli
Old 02-08-2016, 05:38 PM
  #2166  
ahicks
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Originally Posted by superfli
That could be true. I have had one for around 6 months. I do like the engine. It is a powerhouse. I run 40/1 fuel mix. I have had a very difficult time with the low end as I messed it up when I first got the engine. Finding the sweet spot has been a challenge. The reason your able to run a 40/1 mix in this motor is because it has bearings where as the Evo is a bushing motor. You will need to always run your mix at 20/1 on the Evo. Overall I would take the OS over the Evo any day. I also have the OS GT 15. I have not had a bit of problems with that one. It runs and idols perfectly.

Superfli
Nope. It's set up with a needle bearing on the big end of the rod.
Old 02-16-2016, 05:34 PM
  #2167  
ahicks
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Big grin here regarding my out of warranty crank issue. Horizon is taking care of it. It's not that this is a huge deal financially, it more the fact they've stepped up and taken ownership of the crank issue. This says a ton about the management there - and the backing they get from Horizon.

That said, doing the crank and rod replacement yourself may not be a good plan. I'm left with the distinct feeling this would have been a non event if I had just sent them the engine. That will be how I handle this issue on my second engine for sure (I have 2 of these). When I get it back, THEN I'll do the carb conversion. That's the plan anyway. -Al
Old 02-16-2016, 07:34 PM
  #2168  
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I bought my engine last winter and was wondering if horizon is saying when they fixed the crank issue? Or is an issue of repairing the problem as it occurs?
thanks
Jeff
Old 02-16-2016, 08:57 PM
  #2169  
ahicks
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Jeff, after my experience, thinking that if you show them a bad crank, they'll take care of it - in or out of warranty. Pretty sure they have the original problem handled, but the jury will be out for a while, until we see for sure. -Al
Old 02-17-2016, 06:29 AM
  #2170  
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As we discussed many times here, the crank pin issue was on the early production engines. How many of them exist/existed? Who knows. Could they still pop up now ? Absolutely ,as an early engine could have been sitting on a shelf for months before it was sold. Horizon Hobby is a very good company and they will support the product.
Old 02-17-2016, 04:00 PM
  #2171  
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I wonder if its just a few in the early batch or all of them . I have one and Im tempted to get a new crank from the get go but not if its a isolated prob. Has anyone posed that Q to Horizon ? Cheers the pope
Old 02-17-2016, 05:03 PM
  #2172  
ahicks
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With their policy of taking care of crank issues out of warranty, not sure why you wouldn't just run it until a problem becomes apparent?
Old 02-17-2016, 06:39 PM
  #2173  
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I live here in Aus so if it does damage to the piston and liner as well as maybe the bearings i may as well toss it in the bin . After warranty issues I;ll be stuck with and its way out of warranty . Im done with getting the 1st of anything .Was going to jump on the frsky horus tx but after the taranis and its different versions and other products new to the market no more .I got a da 50 instead and by the time i save for the horus hopefully any issues with that will already be sorted .cheers

Last edited by the pope; 02-17-2016 at 06:44 PM.
Old 02-18-2016, 05:13 AM
  #2174  
ahicks
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I get what you're saying. Not saying it isn't possible, because I know better, but you don't hear about them coming apart and going into total destruction mode. Most all have identified the problem prior to that.
Old 02-18-2016, 08:10 AM
  #2175  
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Originally Posted by the pope
I wonder if its just a few in the early batch or all of them . I have one and Im tempted to get a new crank from the get go but not if its a isolated prob. Has anyone posed that Q to Horizon ? Cheers the pope
Not every engine had the problem. It was an isolated case with a few of the early engines. It is entirely possible that you may have one of the bad cranks. We will stand behind the product regardless.

I have not seen a case in which the crankpin failure destroyed anything else in the engine (bearings, liner, piston, etc.). I would recommend running the engine as normal and only check into it if you notice any irregularities.

Thanks,
Jimmy


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