stuka

My Feedback: (62)

I have a question regarding the input voltage. I have been getting different answers in regards to the voltage. Are you guys running LiFE or lipos on these ignitions? Are you running a regulator on them? I just installed one and on the ignition box itself says operating voltage 4.8-8.4 volts. I have installed some of these without regulators and a 2 cell LiFE without any issues, but had someone say he burned up ignitions running LiFE's without a regulator. So whats the facts?

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

If they are rated for 8.4 v you have a newer one.

I run them on A123 with a drop down diode from WrongwayRC but mine are stamped to 6v

mpascual

My Feedback: (1)

See the sticker of your ignition module :

-> Model A01 -> 4,8 to 6 v : 4 cell NiCd , 4 cell NiMh (better SANYO eneloop) , Life 2S and LiPo 2S WITH VOLTAGE REGULATOR under 6V
-> Model A02 -> 4,8 to 8,4 v : 4 or 5 cell NiCd , 4 or 5 cell NiMh, 2S Life o 2S Lipo . No regulator needed.

Best regards

Tone Price

A 2-cell LiFe battery is still 6.6v which would be over the old "6v" ignitions. Technically, you should not use any battery (w/o a regulator) that shows over 6v fully charged. It is always possible someone has plugged in their LiFe battery and had no problems however based on the numbers, however, we at TBM do not recommend it based on the numbers.

The best thing to do is just read the label and make absolutely sure you don't exceed the max voltage and stay within operating voltage in general. We have always recommended the [link=http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/QPR.html]SmartFly 6v ouput 3A continuous Regulator[/link] for the older DLE ignitions which had a 6v cap.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Thats cool and probably works great but for 1/3 the price you can get a diode that works just fine.

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

And for that third of the price you get the extension with the diode installed, if you 'wanna do the diode install yourself it's less than a buck....

Maybe TBM is trying to redeem themselves a bit after going several years of treating us (customers) like crap???????

Tone Price

A lot of people enjoy a nice finished product they can "plug and play". There are options for everything out there. I personally have not once purchased a computer off the shelf. I prefer to buy all the pieces, customize, and save money getting the best bang for my buck. There are plenty of people who do the exact opposite because they don't know how, don't know why, or don't have time to build the PC themselves.

This is a perfect example of why someone would buy a finished regulator rather than other options.

Post some links to the diodes you're talking about so others may learn alternative routes, lets keep this thread informative and productive!

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

For the record, my peronal experience with TBM has always been positive and while paying tax is a bummer, regular mail is next day delivery so it works out.

I don't think I've ever met Tone but I've definately spoken on the phone and I hope you make it to Festival of Giants, FX3D, or 3D Bowl, I always enjoy hanging out with Gene at events.

http://www.shop.kavarootusa.com/cate...?categoryId=10 the diode's are wired up and ready to go from WrongWayRC

Single diodes for A123's, dual diodes for LiPo/LiIon

stuka

My Feedback: (62)

Thanks guys for the info. Where can you get the diodes to do the work yourself?

SpinnerRow

I've been running a single LiFe battery for radio and ignition for over two years now. I put a single diode between the battery and ignition to drop the voltage down some (0.6Volts to be exact). I picked up 10 1N5401 diodes at a local electronics surplus shop for 9 cents each. I've also run a capacitor to filter the signal some but I have as many models with the capacitor as I do without it and haven't noticed any difference.

Tone Price

We all usually alternate at certain events so I'll have to see when my it's my turn! I was at Toledo 2012 and the IACP 2012. Thanks for the link, I'm talking to Gene about carrying them as a cheaper alternative for pilots.

SpinnerRow, excellent post, thank you for the info!

For those still interested in the all in one solution, (realized this after seeing the opto kill in your diagram) you can get everything (opto kill and regulator) in one package for $50 with the Wike R/C IBEF: http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/WRCIBEFV2.1.html

I realize this is much more expensive than just having the diodes and possibly an opto kill but this does it all right off the receiver. It's nice seeing all the different ways to skin the cat!

Len Todd

I have two DLE 111s. One CDI unit was rated for at least 8.4 Volts and the other is rated for only 6 volts. I have run 2S Lipos direct, via the optical kill switch, into the high voltage unit without any problems. I just barely caught the differences between the old and new units the other day. My the second one is a low voltage unit. And, the second one was bought several months after the first. Lesson Learned: You have to read the CDI box to determine if regulation is needed. Do not assume your new DLE has a high voltage CDI. Fortunately, for the second one, I had bought SmartFly's Optical Kill Switch with regulation.

4*60

My Feedback: (41)

I bought 100 diodes for about a buck.  I have a few extras!!  But postage wouldbea buck.  You need two of the ones I bought.  You can also get inexpensive 3 amp and 5 amp ubecs from hk.  Some voltage selectable.

stuka

My Feedback: (62)

Does anyone have a sketch for they way to make these up yourself? Are you installing them between the CDI and switch or between the battery and the switch?

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I solder the diodes (1N4007, 5 packs less than 5.00 at Radio Shack) right into the output leg of the opti switch (I use Rcexl). One diode for LiFe or NiMh is all I've ever used. Have never blown an ign. module yet!

Tone Price

Check out SpinnerRow's post here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...anchor/tm.htm#

He also uses a capacitor though he's not sure if it's absolutely necessary. He's going after the switch before his opto kill. The stripe determines how to hook it up inline as mentioned in his image.

Here's an awesome write up I found searching Google for more info on diodes: http://www.mobileinformationlabs.com...odes_Intro.htm

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Put the diode/regulator/whatever last between the ignition and the input power lead.

raptureboy

Well I'll throw some gas on the fire and share this from Steve Anthony at NoBSBatteries. He has been building batteries for many years for the military and UAV industry. since I have $600-$1000 invested in a plane, do I really want to cheap out on buying another battery for $40-$50? Most planes need nose weight so why not add some safety while your at it.

*

A: Over the past 30 years I've seen several 'ignition battery eliminator' setups come and go... they are usually a small module that sits between the switch and the Rx and port power to the ignition module. They don't normally require any extra connectors on the pack. Some have voltage step-downs to regulate power to an acceptable range for various ignition types. I haven't seen any of them that has cabling on them as large as our switches or packs.. and to work, the IBEC hasto pass power to your Rx through their circuit board, cabling & connectors... another set of potential failure points.

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I won't use one and I don't recommend them. One of the more common failures on larger gas powered models is ignition modules.. when the module shorts out from vibration and heat the ignition battery pack goes dead a few moments later.. leaving the pilot with an engine out 'dead stick' landing. With an ignition battery eliminator,if the module shorts, more often than not the pilot is left without power for the Rx too. That's not a dead stick landing. That's a dead aircraft arrival, not arecoverable situation.In all commercial RPV's, military drones, etc, the telemetry system has its own power supply, as does the engine ignition system and the crafts Rx/Servo system. Separation and redundancy.. in larger models, much preferred over combining systems on one pack.

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For the most part, folks that pursue the ignition battery eliminator attempt to justify it as a weight issue.. reality proves that concept as wrong-headed... lets look a small 30cc powered12 poundbird. 12 pounds x 16 ounces to the pound = 192 ounces. The plane likelycarries 20-28 ounces of fuel. An 1100ma 123 pack weighs 3 ounces. The three ounces won't have any material impact on the performance of the airplane.. however saving those three ounces could easily cost you the entire investment. Of course if your determined to save the three ounces.. you could put a tad less fuel in the tank when you fill up.

SpinnerRow

Servo freaks/shorts out and pulls the battery voltage down to nothing. It all ends the same way if you have a dedicated ignition battery or not. There's sooo many ways to crash a plane and I have experienced a lot of them but so far no death by ignition failure.