DLE 55 weirdness...
01-29-2013, 02:05 PM
#53
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
Where would that be available for folks like me?
ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey
Or go to a lawn mower shop and get a 3 dollar rebuild kit with a new screen and other goodies
Or go to a lawn mower shop and get a 3 dollar rebuild kit with a new screen and other goodies
01-29-2013, 03:19 PM
#54
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
This will sound crazy..check the sensor for the electronic ignition by the prop hub. I have an engine that did the same exact thing as that. THe prop hub was running up against it and it shaved off the front of it and was giving the same exact symptoms you are stating. After I replaced it, it was fixed.
01-29-2013, 05:34 PM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
You need to quit chasing your tail and do what Pe reviers says..............take the carb apart and clean it. ...............more than likely your problem will be solved. I've ignored most of what has been offered here and concentrated on what you said............sounds like you have crap in there somewhere. I've run two strokes thousands of hours in all variety of conditions; alot of times when they start running bad, just turning the low and high needles in till they seat and then backing them out to the original setting will be all that is necessary to dislodge a chunk of crap that is blocking the fuel flow. It is a short term fix and does not take the place of cleaning the carb. All indications are pointing toward dirt or debris in the carb. When "Pe" speaks,........listen..........
01-29-2013, 05:49 PM
#56
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
Some good advise for lots of problems but again I mention. A dirty carb will not suddenly clear up and run good after cranking an arm off to start a engine. A dirty screen will not just get clean on its own and allow the engine to start!!! A small piece of dirt on the high or low needle can cause this but the likely hood it happens every week the same time then clears up and runs the rest of the day....
I think most people are over looking the part where after it starts running it is mostly fine till it sets for a few days then its back to cranking on it. Big difference in this compared to a motor that runs poor all the time or won't start at all.
I think most people are over looking the part where after it starts running it is mostly fine till it sets for a few days then its back to cranking on it. Big difference in this compared to a motor that runs poor all the time or won't start at all.
01-29-2013, 06:42 PM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
If it were a carb problem or any other fuel problem I doubt it will just go away and come back repeatedly. If you have a buddy with a spare ignition it only takes a few minutes to hook one up temporarily to see if it fixes it (make sure voltage is not too high).
I have a DLE 30 that had an intermittent miss that couldn't be solved. Swapped my DLE 55 ignition to it and it runs perfect. A lot easier to start here than to totally go thru engine, carb, fuel system, fuel types, oil ratio, props, needle settings, etc., etc.......
I have a DLE 30 that had an intermittent miss that couldn't be solved. Swapped my DLE 55 ignition to it and it runs perfect. A lot easier to start here than to totally go thru engine, carb, fuel system, fuel types, oil ratio, props, needle settings, etc., etc.......
01-29-2013, 06:42 PM
#58
RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
Are you sure the fuel metering diaphram is against the cover, and the gasket is between the diaphram and the carb body ? and the pin of the diaphram is against the pivot arm of the needle valve ? Just a thought... When in doubt, remove the welch plugs and clean those orifices out good, if it hasn't been done yet of course. Dennis
01-29-2013, 06:46 PM
#59
RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
ORIGINAL: thorpdrvr
If it were a carb problem or any other fuel problem I doubt it will just go away and come back repeatedly. If you have a buddy with a spare ignition it only takes a few minutes to hook one up temporarily to see if it fixes it (make sure voltage is not too high).
I have a DLE 30 that had an intermittent miss that couldn't be solved. Swapped my DLE 55 ignition to it and it runs perfect. A lot easier to start here than to totally go thru engine, carb, fuel system, fuel types, oil ratio, props, needle settings, etc., etc.......
If it were a carb problem or any other fuel problem I doubt it will just go away and come back repeatedly. If you have a buddy with a spare ignition it only takes a few minutes to hook one up temporarily to see if it fixes it (make sure voltage is not too high).
I have a DLE 30 that had an intermittent miss that couldn't be solved. Swapped my DLE 55 ignition to it and it runs perfect. A lot easier to start here than to totally go thru engine, carb, fuel system, fuel types, oil ratio, props, needle settings, etc., etc.......
01-29-2013, 06:50 PM
#60
RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
About the only thing I haven't seen mentioned; have you changed the plug to a NGK6 and not run the china made plug that comes with many DLE engines? I had tons of problems early on with some stock plugs on a 111.
Steve
Steve
01-29-2013, 06:54 PM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
Not to be argumentive but after looking at over 10 different types of 2 stroke oils of different flavors and colors both synthetic and non synthetic they all had a specified mix rate listed,Valley view does alot of warrantee work on the DLE stuff and I think his name is Jody has posted on numerous threads to the effect that anything above 87 octane in these engines may well be the cause of "PHANTOM" problems thats not to say that you don't have an issue somewhere else be it an ignition or plumbing problem etc. however , it never hurts to start with the basics and go from there, atleast you will have eliminated those as potential problems , troubleshooting 101 start at the bottom and work up from there.
troubleshooting an engine any engine is a systematic aproach that has to start somewhere by eliminating the variables one by one otherwise you'll hopscotching around indefinitely and never solve the problem, I do this every day in a different field entirely but the theory is still very sound and applies to anything that isn't working as prescribed, it's the things you take for granted or overlook that will keep you guessing forever, I'll be happy to give the latest example I'm currently dealing with.
troubleshooting an engine any engine is a systematic aproach that has to start somewhere by eliminating the variables one by one otherwise you'll hopscotching around indefinitely and never solve the problem, I do this every day in a different field entirely but the theory is still very sound and applies to anything that isn't working as prescribed, it's the things you take for granted or overlook that will keep you guessing forever, I'll be happy to give the latest example I'm currently dealing with.
ORIGINAL: 7kings
I'm sorry, but I have to disagree (which I hate to do when I've asked for help).
1: The DLE manual (which are actually the people who manufacture the engine, not Valley View), clearly states that their recommended fuel is between 87-93 octane, so this is not an issue per the manufacturer.
2: 2-cycle oil is not generally engineered to be mixed at a specific ratio to be effective. As I've stated, on many (if not most) 2-cycle oil containers, mix quantities are listed for various mix ratios. The proper ratio is determined by the engine manufacturer, who decides exactly how much oil is needed for their mechanical application to operate as intended. The oil does not care how it is mixed. On the oil I've been using (Husqvarna), it lists mix quantities for 32:1, 50:1, and 100:1.
3: Regarding the earlier statement that higher octane fuel is more likely to cause preignition on low-compression engines, it's just completely backwards. The higher the combustion chamber compression ratio, the more likely it is to cause preignition (caused by the heat generated by the compression of gasses), which is then countered by the cooler-burning of high-octane fuel. Low-compression engines are able to run low-octane fuel because they do not generate as much heat during the compression stroke, which is a leading factor when talking about preignition (there are other factors, but we're sticking to compression ratios here). Honestly, the only thing I would be concerned about by running high-octane fuel in a low compression (non-boosted) engine is the possibility of engine deposits down the road.
I'm not trying to be an *****, and I appreciate the help, but I just wanted to clear that up so we're not traveling down a false troubleshooting path.
Thanks.
ORIGINAL: warbird addict
Valid points for sure but from a troubleshooting standpoint you have to start with the basics of making sure the minimum requirements are met and eliminated as the problem and troubleshoot from there, the 93 octane we already know is a problem some would argue that point but it's already been clearly stated by the people who make the engines that it's not a good idea and has no benefit to use anything other than 87 octane.
The OP has already stated that he's been all over the map with the needle settings I'm just curious as to exactly what the specified mix rate is listed on the oil he's using, that coupled with the 93 octane could have a significant impact on the problems he's having, but before you can troubleshoot the problem you first have to address the basics specificly and eliminate those as the problem, troubleshooting starts with step 1 the basics and works forward to the solution
Valid points for sure but from a troubleshooting standpoint you have to start with the basics of making sure the minimum requirements are met and eliminated as the problem and troubleshoot from there, the 93 octane we already know is a problem some would argue that point but it's already been clearly stated by the people who make the engines that it's not a good idea and has no benefit to use anything other than 87 octane.
The OP has already stated that he's been all over the map with the needle settings I'm just curious as to exactly what the specified mix rate is listed on the oil he's using, that coupled with the 93 octane could have a significant impact on the problems he's having, but before you can troubleshoot the problem you first have to address the basics specificly and eliminate those as the problem, troubleshooting starts with step 1 the basics and works forward to the solution
1: The DLE manual (which are actually the people who manufacture the engine, not Valley View), clearly states that their recommended fuel is between 87-93 octane, so this is not an issue per the manufacturer.
2: 2-cycle oil is not generally engineered to be mixed at a specific ratio to be effective. As I've stated, on many (if not most) 2-cycle oil containers, mix quantities are listed for various mix ratios. The proper ratio is determined by the engine manufacturer, who decides exactly how much oil is needed for their mechanical application to operate as intended. The oil does not care how it is mixed. On the oil I've been using (Husqvarna), it lists mix quantities for 32:1, 50:1, and 100:1.
3: Regarding the earlier statement that higher octane fuel is more likely to cause preignition on low-compression engines, it's just completely backwards. The higher the combustion chamber compression ratio, the more likely it is to cause preignition (caused by the heat generated by the compression of gasses), which is then countered by the cooler-burning of high-octane fuel. Low-compression engines are able to run low-octane fuel because they do not generate as much heat during the compression stroke, which is a leading factor when talking about preignition (there are other factors, but we're sticking to compression ratios here). Honestly, the only thing I would be concerned about by running high-octane fuel in a low compression (non-boosted) engine is the possibility of engine deposits down the road.
I'm not trying to be an *****, and I appreciate the help, but I just wanted to clear that up so we're not traveling down a false troubleshooting path.
Thanks.
01-29-2013, 07:02 PM
#62
RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
ORIGINAL: StevL
About the only thing I haven't seen mentioned; have you changed the plug to a NGK6 and not run the china made plug that comes with many DLE engines? I had tons of problems early on with some stock plugs on a 111.
About the only thing I haven't seen mentioned; have you changed the plug to a NGK6 and not run the china made plug that comes with many DLE engines? I had tons of problems early on with some stock plugs on a 111.
Sorry, after reading the entire thread I forgot you posted that you were using genuine NGK plug in your very first post.
Steve
01-29-2013, 08:14 PM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
If not the fuel mix, prop or ignition....I would say you probably have a faulty reed valve.
http://downloads.hobbico.com/evpl/dle/dleg0055-evpl.pdf
See part #11
I had a DL that would show the same kind of ups and downs, finally stripped the carb down in disbelief since it was new only to find the metal casting of the reed valve was so badly pitted the actual plastic reed could not seal properly causing crazy grief with the fuel flow.
Good luck let us know what you find in the end.
http://downloads.hobbico.com/evpl/dle/dleg0055-evpl.pdf
See part #11
I had a DL that would show the same kind of ups and downs, finally stripped the carb down in disbelief since it was new only to find the metal casting of the reed valve was so badly pitted the actual plastic reed could not seal properly causing crazy grief with the fuel flow.
Good luck let us know what you find in the end.
01-30-2013, 06:31 AM
#66
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey
D20-WAT is the rebuild kit part number, they are sold all over the place
D20-WAT is the rebuild kit part number, they are sold all over the place
01-30-2013, 06:34 AM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
I will bet you a thousand dollars that it is your ignition module. I have had this exact problem on my engine that has an RC Excel ignition. Both times it did it, I replaced the ignition module and the engine ran perfect. I asked around the web and nobody could help. I received the exact same advice you did but nothing fixed the problem until I replaced the ignition module. Incidentally both times i left the pick up sensor and switches in place and only replaced the module. Try it and I would be willing to bet that your problem disappears. Here is a link to a video that I made.... does it look familiar?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlHyOeMV9L0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2XcAEKraTg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlHyOeMV9L0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2XcAEKraTg
01-30-2013, 06:40 AM
#68
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
ORIGINAL: warbird addict
Not to be argumentive but after looking at over 10 different types of 2 stroke oils of different flavors and colors both synthetic and non synthetic they all had a specified mix rate listed,Valley view does alot of warrantee work on the DLE stuff and I think his name is Jody has posted on numerous threads to the effect that anything above 87 octane in these engines may well be the cause of "PHANTOM" problems thats not to say that you don't have an issue somewhere else be it an ignition or plumbing problem etc. however , it never hurts to start with the basics and go from there, atleast you will have eliminated those as potential problems , troubleshooting 101 start at the bottom and work up from there.
troubleshooting an engine any engine is a systematic aproach that has to start somewhere by eliminating the variables one by one otherwise you'll hopscotching around indefinitely and never solve the problem, I do this evey day in a different field entirely but the theory is still very sound and applies to anything that isn't working as prescribed, it's the things you take for granted or overlook that will keep you guessing forever, I'll be happy to give the latest example I'm currently dealing with.
Not to be argumentive but after looking at over 10 different types of 2 stroke oils of different flavors and colors both synthetic and non synthetic they all had a specified mix rate listed,Valley view does alot of warrantee work on the DLE stuff and I think his name is Jody has posted on numerous threads to the effect that anything above 87 octane in these engines may well be the cause of "PHANTOM" problems thats not to say that you don't have an issue somewhere else be it an ignition or plumbing problem etc. however , it never hurts to start with the basics and go from there, atleast you will have eliminated those as potential problems , troubleshooting 101 start at the bottom and work up from there.
troubleshooting an engine any engine is a systematic aproach that has to start somewhere by eliminating the variables one by one otherwise you'll hopscotching around indefinitely and never solve the problem, I do this evey day in a different field entirely but the theory is still very sound and applies to anything that isn't working as prescribed, it's the things you take for granted or overlook that will keep you guessing forever, I'll be happy to give the latest example I'm currently dealing with.
ORIGINAL: 7kings
I'm sorry, but I have to disagree (which I hate to do when I've asked for help).
1: The DLE manual (which are actually the people who manufacture the engine, not Valley View), clearly states that their recommended fuel is between 87-93 octane, so this is not an issue per the manufacturer.
2: 2-cycle oil is not generally engineered to be mixed at a specific ratio to be effective. As I've stated, on many (if not most) 2-cycle oil containers, mix quantities are listed for various mix ratios. The proper ratio is determined by the engine manufacturer, who decides exactly how much oil is needed for their mechanical application to operate as intended. The oil does not care how it is mixed. On the oil I've been using (Husqvarna), it lists mix quantities for 32:1, 50:1, and 100:1.
3: Regarding the earlier statement that higher octane fuel is more likely to cause preignition on low-compression engines, it's just completely backwards. The higher the combustion chamber compression ratio, the more likely it is to cause preignition (caused by the heat generated by the compression of gasses), which is then countered by the cooler-burning of high-octane fuel. Low-compression engines are able to run low-octane fuel because they do not generate as much heat during the compression stroke, which is a leading factor when talking about preignition (there are other factors, but we're sticking to compression ratios here). Honestly, the only thing I would be concerned about by running high-octane fuel in a low compression (non-boosted) engine is the possibility of engine deposits down the road.
I'm not trying to be an *****, and I appreciate the help, but I just wanted to clear that up so we're not traveling down a false troubleshooting path.
Thanks.
ORIGINAL: warbird addict
Valid points for sure but from a troubleshooting standpoint you have to start with the basics of making sure the minimum requirements are met and eliminated as the problem and troubleshoot from there, the 93 octane we already know is a problem some would argue that point but it's already been clearly stated by the people who make the engines that it's not a good idea and has no benefit to use anything other than 87 octane.
The OP has already stated that he's been all over the map with the needle settings I'm just curious as to exactly what the specified mix rate is listed on the oil he's using, that coupled with the 93 octane could have a significant impact on the problems he's having, but before you can troubleshoot the problem you first have to address the basics specificly and eliminate those as the problem, troubleshooting starts with step 1 the basics and works forward to the solution
Valid points for sure but from a troubleshooting standpoint you have to start with the basics of making sure the minimum requirements are met and eliminated as the problem and troubleshoot from there, the 93 octane we already know is a problem some would argue that point but it's already been clearly stated by the people who make the engines that it's not a good idea and has no benefit to use anything other than 87 octane.
The OP has already stated that he's been all over the map with the needle settings I'm just curious as to exactly what the specified mix rate is listed on the oil he's using, that coupled with the 93 octane could have a significant impact on the problems he's having, but before you can troubleshoot the problem you first have to address the basics specificly and eliminate those as the problem, troubleshooting starts with step 1 the basics and works forward to the solution
1: The DLE manual (which are actually the people who manufacture the engine, not Valley View), clearly states that their recommended fuel is between 87-93 octane, so this is not an issue per the manufacturer.
2: 2-cycle oil is not generally engineered to be mixed at a specific ratio to be effective. As I've stated, on many (if not most) 2-cycle oil containers, mix quantities are listed for various mix ratios. The proper ratio is determined by the engine manufacturer, who decides exactly how much oil is needed for their mechanical application to operate as intended. The oil does not care how it is mixed. On the oil I've been using (Husqvarna), it lists mix quantities for 32:1, 50:1, and 100:1.
3: Regarding the earlier statement that higher octane fuel is more likely to cause preignition on low-compression engines, it's just completely backwards. The higher the combustion chamber compression ratio, the more likely it is to cause preignition (caused by the heat generated by the compression of gasses), which is then countered by the cooler-burning of high-octane fuel. Low-compression engines are able to run low-octane fuel because they do not generate as much heat during the compression stroke, which is a leading factor when talking about preignition (there are other factors, but we're sticking to compression ratios here). Honestly, the only thing I would be concerned about by running high-octane fuel in a low compression (non-boosted) engine is the possibility of engine deposits down the road.
I'm not trying to be an *****, and I appreciate the help, but I just wanted to clear that up so we're not traveling down a false troubleshooting path.
Thanks.
01-30-2013, 06:44 AM
#69
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
ORIGINAL: Ih82crash
I will bet you a thousand dollars that it is your ignition module. I have had this exact problem on my engine that has an RC Excel ignition. Both times it did it, I replaced the ignition module and the engine ran perfect. I asked around the web and nobody could help. I received the exact same advice you did but nothing fixed the problem until I replaced the ignition module. Incidentally both times i left the pick up sensor and switches in place and only replaced the module. Try it and I would be willing to bet that your problem disappears. Here is a link to a video that I made.... does it look familiar?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlHyOeMV9L0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2XcAEKraTg
I will bet you a thousand dollars that it is your ignition module. I have had this exact problem on my engine that has an RC Excel ignition. Both times it did it, I replaced the ignition module and the engine ran perfect. I asked around the web and nobody could help. I received the exact same advice you did but nothing fixed the problem until I replaced the ignition module. Incidentally both times i left the pick up sensor and switches in place and only replaced the module. Try it and I would be willing to bet that your problem disappears. Here is a link to a video that I made.... does it look familiar?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlHyOeMV9L0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2XcAEKraTg
01-30-2013, 06:58 AM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
Hi,
I have had a couple of dle motors, and friends at the field have had a few.
Had similar symptoms on two of my motor and found the screw that holds the choke butterfly had loosened up and it would be hit or miss were it ended up. Gave me a head ake for a while before i found it. Take the screw all the way out and add a drop of lock tight. Motors are great running and problem free now.
Do the same for the throttle butterfly as well, had one of these loosen up and hung the throttle at about half, had to run it out of fuel and dead stick it in, LOL.
Oh and i believe there is a de - dent that holds the butterfly in a certain position so make sure that is were it needs to be before you tighten it down.
Let me know what you find here. I am not the only one at the field to experience this problem, one other guy did as well.
Good luck
01-30-2013, 07:18 AM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
ORIGINAL: rcmadnessp51
...these loosen up and hung the throttle at about half, had to run it out of fuel and dead stick it in...
...these loosen up and hung the throttle at about half, had to run it out of fuel and dead stick it in...
01-30-2013, 07:44 AM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
Ya, it seemed like it took for ever, That was almost 30 min of hell. LOL. It was the end of the day and it was a gamble weather the battery would die before it ran out of fuel LOL.
Now have a spark switch on it just in case lol.
Have a good one.
Now have a spark switch on it just in case lol.
Have a good one.
01-30-2013, 10:35 AM
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RE: DLE 55 weirdness...
it's one of two things and i am leaning towards the carb has dirt in it.or it is your ignition DLE has had some problems with there ignition in the past.
also i would like to know where i can buy a carb rebuild kit for three dollars.
also i would like to know where i can buy a carb rebuild kit for three dollars.