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Can someone please help me?????

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Old 02-21-2013, 07:47 PM
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giddyuperic
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Default Can someone please help me?????

Hello I have a DLE 30cc engine and it was bought from a friend and but it in a yak54 and it died and she went in. So cleaned up the engine and mounted it on a gold wing Extra 300LM now I can't get it to start it has spake and fuel and air but nothing??????? I was told that I should just buy a new ingnition I don't know if that is spelled right but you know what I mean. I am not in the money to go and just replace that because someone said so. You can hear a clicking sound coming from some where when you turn the prop over slowly but I don't know what that is and it gets really wet. I put the hight and low neddles back to factory settings and she still was soaking wet when we pulled the plug. Even cut the factory settings in half and it still get the plug wet not a wet as at the stock settings but still nothing not even a pop when you close the chock. I have a DLE55 that starts like a charm couple of flips of the prop turn her on and chock it and pop and then she fires right help. Any help would be great. Thank you for your time. Eric
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:55 PM
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i would try another ignition
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:00 PM
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Thanks even with good spark with the plug outside and grounded on the head????
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:20 PM
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Default RE: Can someone please help me?????

You should rebuild the carburetor. It sounds like the metering needle is not seating properly. You should always bring a spare ignition module and sensor to the field when you go flying. You can never tell when they will go bad. I always bring them and it has saved the day every now and then. If you fly at Prado, I can meet you there and see what's happening. I'm usually there at 7:30 on Tuesdays but any day is OK. Dan.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:29 PM
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I would take Dan up on his generous offer to assist you.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: All Day Dan

You should rebuild the carburetor. It sounds like the metering needle is not seating properly. You should always bring a spare ignition module and sensor to the field when you go flying. You can never tell when they will go bad. I always bring them and it has saved the day every now and then. If you fly at Prado, I can meet you there and see what's happening. I'm usually there at 7:30 on Tuesdays but any day is OK. Dan.
I've been running C&H Syncrospark on my Saitos for years & have never had a module fail.

I still use the 1st module that I bought in 1997. It has been through 2 severe crashes & outlasted the engine on which it was originally installed.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:38 AM
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When an Rcexl spark plug boot meets the dirt, very often there is internal damage that's impossible to see. Often you can hear it though? If you pull the plug and turn the engine over with the plug inserted in the boot, you'll see it sparking, but when it comes to sparking while under compression - it doesn't. It leaks to the boot - making the snapping noise you hear.

Replacement boots are available, not too hard to find, not too difficult to replace. MUCH less money than a new ignition.

Here's one source, 12.00

http://www.rcextremepower.net/ignitions.html
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:18 AM
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+1 on the spark plug boot. My Giant SS tail came up and the boot hit the ground. Would never run right after that. Hard to start as well. Replaced the ignition. No problems since.

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Old 02-22-2013, 08:30 AM
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Thank you guys so much I have places to start now. I have a box on of my DLE55 will that work just to check it? Thanks Eric
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:39 AM
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Plug and play! Great plan if you have a module that's not installed in something.....
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:46 AM
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Default RE: Can someone please help me?????

You could have an ignition problem, but I think you might have a carb problem too. If the metering/regulator diaphragm in the carb gets stiff, which they often do with today's gasoline, they can get stuck in the "open" position. That will flood the engine. If you change the ignition and the plug is still wet all the time, go for a carb rebuild. The kits are cheap and the carbs are not difficult to rebuild. Just watch carefully where everything is located upon dis-assembly, and put it back together the same way with new parts.

Note: Sometimes a diaphragm will get stuck in the "closed" position too, then the engine won't get any fuel at all. It is just "the luck of the draw" which position they happen to get stuck in when the diaphragm gets stiff.

AV8TOR
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: ahicks

When an Rcexl spark plug boot meets the dirt, very often there is internal damage that's impossible to see. Often you can hear it though? If you pull the plug and turn the engine over with the plug inserted in the boot, you'll see it sparking, but when it comes to sparking while under compression - it doesn't. It leaks to the boot - making the snapping noise you hear.

Replacement boots are available, not too hard to find, not too difficult to replace. MUCH less money than a new ignition.

Here's one source, 12.00

http://www.rcextremepower.net/ignitions.html
Al is correct. If the engine was involved in a crash, it is likely the plug boot will be damaged since in most cases the engine is installed upside down with the plug at the bottom. If you see any damage whatsoever such as a dent, don't trust the boot. The boot replacement kit is not expensive and not hard to do.

Mike
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:02 PM
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Here is the link with photos on how to replace the boot. Excellent post by JediJody.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...tm.htm#9513934
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: giddyuperic

Hello I have a DLE 30cc engine and it was bought from a friend and but it in a yak54 and it died and she went in. So cleaned up the engine and mounted it on a gold wing Extra 300LM now I can't get it to start it has spake and fuel and air but nothing??????? I was told that I should just buy a new ingnition I don't know if that is spelled right but you know what I mean. I am not in the money to go and just replace that because someone said so. You can hear a clicking sound coming from some where when you turn the prop over slowly but I don't know what that is and it gets really wet. I put the hight and low neddles back to factory settings and she still was soaking wet when we pulled the plug. Even cut the factory settings in half and it still get the plug wet not a wet as at the stock settings but still nothing not even a pop when you close the chock. I have a DLE55 that starts like a charm couple of flips of the prop turn her on and chock it and pop and then she fires right help. Any help would be great. Thank you for your time. Eric
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: flycatch


Quote:
ORIGINAL: giddyuperic

Hello I have a DLE 30cc engine and it was bought from a friend and but it in a yak54 and it died and she went in. So cleaned up the engine and mounted it on a gold wing Extra 300LM now I can't get it to start it has spake and fuel and air but nothing??????? I was told that I should just buy a new ingnition I don't know if that is spelled right but you know what I mean. I am not in the money to go and just replace that because someone said so. You can hear a clicking sound coming from some where when you turn the prop over slowly but I don't know what that is and it gets really wet. I put the hight and low neddles back to factory settings and she still was soaking wet when we pulled the plug. Even cut the factory settings in half and it still get the plug wet not a wet as at the stock settings but still nothing not even a pop when you close the chock. I have a DLE55 that starts like a charm couple of flips of the prop turn her on and chock it and pop and then she fires right help. Any help would be great. Thank you for your time. Eric
Some friend.
Thank you all for your help it was the box I swaped it with one that we knew worked and it lit right up. But now the carb is all out of tune. It is kind of hard to tune all by your self with out loosing you fingers or a hand and yes I had her tied to a poll. So now I just have to get it tuned right and a new box and it should be good to go. What do you guys have you high and low set at? And the gap on the plug it says 18-20 so I went with 19 is that okay? What does some friend mean??? Any way thank you all for your time and input.
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:25 PM
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that happen to me i checked the carb and found the carb screen dirty so jut take it out and clean it ck all the wireing then try it hope it works
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Old 02-22-2013, 05:30 PM
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Okay I will do that I am going to get the new box that will take up to 8.? volts with out reg on it. $69 bucks can't beat that. Thanks I see what you mean by some friend I don't blame him for any of this Planes crash!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: giddyuperic

Okay I will do that I am going to get the new box that will take up to 8.? volts with out reg on it. $69 bucks can't beat that. Thanks I see what you mean by some friend I don't blame him for any of this Planes crash!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Too many people off load their junk on their buddies and when it doesn't work they always say never had a problem.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:39 PM
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Please..... Every carb on every engine, on every airplane, in every locale needs tuned in every case. There are no such things as "factory settings" being correct for anything more than hopefully getting the engine started. Your ideal tuning settings will be different from anyone elses due to fuel, oil, atmospheric, prop, installation, temperature, barometric pressure, altitude, and more factors. Each engine is a bit different, so your ideal setting could even be different from a buddy's airplane that has everything identical to yours.

Start at the factory settings, then tune the engine to the ideal settings for your setup. There are tons of sources for tuning info, so I won't bother re-typing them all here.

Good luck and glad you got it going,
AV8TOR
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:06 AM
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In other words, even if somebody gives you a set of settings that are working great for them, do not assume they're going to work well, or even be close to what works best for you!
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:28 AM
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Here's just one example. I had thoroughly test run an engine for my newest 50cc Extra on my test stand. I had the carb adjusted perfectly. Then I installed it on the plane and finished the plane up. When I test ran the engine on the airplane with the cowl on, it was far too rich and the high speed needle had to be closed nearly one full turn.

The reason? This particular engine is a side carb, not rear carb like the DLE's, etc. On the test stand, the prop blast was blowing the reversion, or stand-off away from the carb throat and the carb had to be adjusted richer to allow for that and run properly. With the cowl on, the carb is protected from the prop blast, and sucks a good portion of the reversion/stand-off back into the engine, hence needing a leaner needle adjustment to have the correct mixture.

Now if I had just taken someone's word for "X" and "X" needle settings, how do you think my engine would have run? As I said, the various factors causing the need for each engine installation to be properly tuned are many.....

AV8TOR
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:52 AM
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Okay thank I understand that all the things come together like tuning with out the cowl will be little different then with it on. I will start then at 1 and 1/2 on high and one 1 on the low and go from there. Thanks every body for your help.
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