bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I have 2 new DLE 20s (2 gallons thru each).......they are very hard to start for the first time. I have to choke 1 around 30-35 flips before it fires (I can live with that). The other, I have to flip 80-110 times before it will fire. Once it fires, I don't have to choke it for the rest of the day. The engine runs well (idle, good transition, good peak power). Any ideas????????? I have richened the low end to the point of poor idle. I know the choke is closing completely. There is only 3 inches of fuel line between the carb and tank. I have tried a stock DLE replacement carb (no difference). I've owned many gas engines (20cc-111cc) and have never had this problem.

Any help would be appreciated................

allans

My Feedback: (11)

Any more data? Is it getting fuel? What happens if you prime it first?

kork

My Feedback: (65)

in my learning, bowman is the name to remember when it comes to china engines, much better compresion

skillet92

Have you soldered the hole closed on the choke plate? On these smaller engines it helps with fuel draw. I solder all mine closed. I have one on a funtana 125 within 10 flips it pops, open choke and it is running with in 3-4 flips.

s3nfo

My Feedback: (14)

Bowman reed block mod too, if the petals aren't sealing well, you won't get good pumping action.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

It is slow to draw fuel......I can remove the plug, squirt some fuel in the plug hole and get it to start faster.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I thought about plugging the hole with a small screw. It will still draw air when the choke is closed????? I usually set my throttle at 60-70% when choking.....should I try something else?

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I checked the reed block when I changed the carb.....it seemed to seal fine. The engine runs great once you get it started.

What is the Bowman reed block mod?

skillet92

Yes it will still drawl air when closed if that hole is there. And these smaller gas engines do not have the vacuum that the larger ones have. I close the hole on all my gas engines no matter the size. I close choke, turn ignition on, open throttle all the way and flip till it pops. It will cut it self off without air. Open choke, and set throttle at 2 to 3 clicks above idle. Usaully starts within a few flips.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

Thanks for all of the help...................keep it coming.

kork

My Feedback: (65)

The china engines come with a very hard ring that may never break in, simply by installing a new frank bowman ring( 11.00 dollars and some shipping) and the plane will come alive. 2 flips you will have fuel to the carb... Not to mention,Frank will send you the instructions how to do the reed cage fix.

plaurence

My Feedback: (2)

are you talking about the hole in the brass butterfly ? The movable part?

thanks

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I would at least have a look-see at the reed block and reeds.

Some of the DLE's have a "as-cast" reed block that sometimes does not seal well. Easy to fix yourself.

My DLE 20 has always been flawless. I changed to a NGK spark plug before ever trying to start it.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

I have changed all of the spark plugs on my DLEs also. What do I look for on the reed valves (they looked fine to me) and how do I fix it?.

skillet92

Yes that hole. And +1 on changing the dle spark plug. Go to a ngk cm6. World of difference.

raptureboy

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10607246 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...m.htm#11396471 ok now you have all the info. email Frank for an updated price list and follow the excellent tutorial on fixing your reed blocks, but I have 4 of these engines and no problems with any of them. NGK plugs 32:1 oil and reg gas and they start within a few flips. All of them are stock. Iwould look for dirt in the screen and also small metal particles in th carb from machining. Air leaks around the fuel lines and tighten all the bolts too. set your needles back to factory settings and try it again

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

bushhong - since you have changed the spark plug and the engine runs once it does get started it sounds like your spark is ok. Actually, are you using a fully charged 4.8 NiMh battery? That works fine with my DLE 20. You may want to check the choke plate - it's not uncommon on these DLE's that either \ both the choke and carb plate comes slightly loose, and then becomes off-center inside the carb throat - and thus can't close properly. Sounds like more the choke plate in your case (if it was the carb plate you would not be able to kill the engine with the throttle, or get a reliable low-idle.) I recently installed a Frank Bowman ring (read too many good things about them) - have only run the engine on day with it so far, but it sounds VERY healthy now. On the reed-block issue, I saw that my original reed was elevated off of the block - no suction at low idle. Replaced it with a new one from Tower. Or you can get instructions from Frank Bowman (when you buy a ring) on how to fix that block.

Also you might want to change your fuel tubing - may be an air leak. Also, are you using a fueling port? Those things are notorious for air leaks (happened to me).

When you are starting the engine with full choke and WOT you should see the gas moving through the line towards the carb - should not take more than 10 strokes. Anything more than 15 and somethings wrong (no suction). Let us know what you find - starting problems are FRUSTRATING.

Mike

FSFLYER

My Feedback: (12)

These engines don't draw fuel well. I had the same problem. Fill the tank through a "T" in your line going to the carb. Once it's full cap your vent line and run your fuel pump a bit. While leaving your pump attached, close the choke and flip the prop about 6 times. This will somewhat pressurize the fuel system and it gets fuel to the carb easier. After the first run of the day the engine always starts on one flip without choking. Great little motor.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

My last 2 DLE's were equipped with Bowman rings before the first start. Both engines started on the 2nd flip and really seated fast. The 55 has incredible compression and pops like an ABC engine even when flipped dry. I'm utterly sold on these rings and factor their cost in on all future engine purchases.

Seating the reeds hasn't been necessary but looks simple to do if you are comfortable taking the back of the engine off.

bushong572

My Feedback: (59)

Thanks for all of your help.


I think I will solder the hole in the choke plate closed and modify the reed block. Since I've tried another carb, I'll bet the reed block is the problem.


Thanks

jmpups

My Feedback: (1)

I have found that many of the smaller CC engines 20-26 do not start as easily as the larger ones. The remedy is really an electric starter. I have experienced the same with Fuji and Zenoah. jmpups

karolh

+ 1 as this first start of the day method works quite well.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I had the same problem with my DLE 20 when I first started running it. Soldering the choke plate cured it though and now it starts within 5-6 flips. I like to rock the prop back and forth to get the fuel moving as well. I had to use an electric starter at times before the solder job.

I do not think it is a good idea to use a T fitting to fill fuel though. As has been discussed before, you are putting unfiltered gas to the inside of your filter clunk. This may be OK if you have a filter on your fuel line coming out of your can, but I rarely see these. Just something to keep in mind. The was a thread the other day of someone that had clogged the screen in his carb using a 3 line system.

colesifer3d314

My Feedback: (9)

the reed block mod is a must..it will look fine, but should be done anyway and will notice big gains.

also, why not just hit it with the starter for the initial choke..after that, i have found that choke isnt needed and will start after 1-3 flips..i have also ordered a bowman ring and plan to change that when it arives..

i have never soldiered any hole on any of my carbs..they run fine and i dont belive that any of us know more than walbro about their own carb.

different strokes for different folks

Cole

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I do not like the negative effects electric starters have on my spinners for one. For two, I do not want to deal with another piece of equipment like a starter and battery if I do not have to.

There are so many things that are not engineered 100% to work exactly as they should. I do not know why Walbro puts a hole in the choke plate. Maybe so the priming button will work better on the weed wacker.

I am going to bet soldering the choke plate is far easier than modifying the reed block. I have never done that to any of my gassers. I have soldered the choke plate on all of my gassers and it is truly a solution that works.

But like you say, Different strokes.