qspilotcmh

Thanks I was thinking the reeds as well. I did the mod on my DLE20 but I was hoping the VVRC20 would not require it.

I took the engine off my airplane for a closer look. One of the carburetor mounting screws was slightly loose which could cause this issue. I also found one of the three backplate screws was loose. Now for the BIG problem - The engine housing threads are stripped not the screw. I assume they put these on with thread lock so It must of broken loose and took the threads with it.

Guess I will call Tom to see what my options are.

I do like the setup so far on the 20CC profile. It's pretty fun for an $820 airplane package! Bummer on the engine - I will in Tampa and we fly year round. I was supposed to fly this weekend.

Chris

karolh

What engine housing threads are you referring to? Are these the threaded holes in the engine crankcase to accept the cylinder bolts?

qspilotcmh

There are 3 - 3MM bolts that attach the backplate to the crankcase.

top gun reed

I tell you what I have that vvrc 20 in my hellcat 60 size and man I can tell you this is a sweet engine I mean it really pushes my hellcat around really fast and it sounds great I would buy another one In a heart beat great engine and mr tom is really a good guy he,ll help with any question you my have I love mind

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

What prop are you using on your Hellcat?

top gun reed

hey buddy sorry about the delay I,m running a 16/8 classic series on that vvrc engine and man I cant tell you the difference in flight performance im seeing with this vvrc engine. Hell before I had it way under powered, by running a os75. But now with this new engine she screams down the flight line, and has endless verticle. So let me know if you decide to get this engine, I promise you you will not go wrong. And by the way thanks for your help with my p-40, and if you will pm me back, and let me know what prop you think I should run on this Dle20cc. Because im stuck between a 16/8, and a17/6 which one you think will give me the best performance on this p-40?

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I have several Dle 20's and 1 VVRC 20. All are on various .60-size warbirds, and most use the Master Airscrew 16x8x3. Not necessarily the best performance, but they look great. Try one!

If I buy any more 20's, it will be the VVRC version. Better price, and from what I have seen so far, a better engine.

(On a side note, would you be any relation to C.W. Reed, III from Kansas City?)

top gun reed

no relation but what about the dle 20 what prop are you using to fly it with on these warbirds and do you have a p-40warhawk 60 size by top flite and have you tried a 17/6 on your dle to fly these 60 size birds

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

As I said, the MA 16x8x3. I have also used the APC 17x8N with a lot of success. Yes, I have the TF .60-size P-40 as well as the same class TF P-47. All with 20cc gas engines. I use the Xoar 17x6 on my DLE 20 powered PT-17 biplane. A 17x6 doesn't seem to move the fighters fast enough for me. I prefer 8 inches of pitch for them.

20cc gas fighters:

H9 P-40
H9 Corsair
H9 Hellcat
H9 P-47
TF P-40
TF P-47
TF SNJ
GP PT-17

Deceased:
H9 Spitfire

If the full-scale had a 3-blade prop, I use the MA 16x8x3. All the rest use 16x8 2-blade props, except the PT-17. I intend to try a 4-blade Beila 20x10x4 on my DLE 55 powered Tarheel Hal as soon as it warms up outside.

qspilotcmh

Here is a picture after a 9 minute flight. Take note of all the excess fuel / oil on the firewall.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Send it back to them with a letter of explanation. They are good people and I am certain it will be repaired for you.

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

Sometimes a velocity stack can help with fuel spit back from the carb. That's the typical method of dealing with it on side carb piston-port engines.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Properly working reed-valve engines cannot spit fuel out of the carb. Side-inducted engines are completely different and spitting fuel can be expected. The use of a velocity stack is a good idea on side-ported engines but won't help in this situation. I suspect there is a flaw in the reeds or the assembly that retains them.

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

Yeah, I didn't think that would work due to the architecture of the reed valve system as you said. Probably shouldn't have mentioned it, but I know they can have a very small amount of spit back though. I have an engine that will spit a small mist occasionally and the reeds are in perfect shape. You're right though, after looking at the picture full size, that is a ton of oil.

Since the carb is so accessible, why don't you pull the reed cage out of it and see if there are any small burrs on the face of it? Are the reeds sitting perfectly flat against the face of the cage? If there are you can fix it by gently sanding the cage with some 100 grit sandpaper that's taped to a flat surface. There's a write up on that procedure somewhere if you need some visual aids.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Think Frank Bowman (rings) has a procedural writeup available

T-man49 in Al

Ernie Misner

Run a search for "reed block mod" and it will come up right here on RCU. This is VERY common on the Chinese reed induction engines. All you do is pull the carb, then reed block out of the crank case. Remove the reeds, then place some fine sandpaper on something really flat like a piece of glass. Make a few passes over the faces of the block and that will remove any burrs or high spots that are causing the reeds to not fully seat. Then when you reinstall the reeds put a drop of locktite on the screws, and turn the reeds over so they put the most closing pressure on the block before installing the screws. Usually if you have leaky reeds the engine might be slightly hard to start, and not want to idle perfectly well. You can still get some spit back through the carb even with properly working reeds, usually at high rpms with the reeds begin to float or hang open a bit. Lots of guy install a Bowman ring AND do the reed block mod at the same time and say they have never run better.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Rather than pressing the reed onto sandpaper, you could also use a fine or extra-fine (flat) stone of the type used for sharpening knives - if you have one, of course - and pressing lightly, move steadily down the reed or in small circles with the stone, while the reed is laying on a flat, hard surface. That will remove burs nicely, and help insure the surface remains as flat as possible. You can also use oil while you work it with the stone.

~ Jim ~

bcchi

100 Grit too rough,use 400 or finer.
BCCHI

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Just ordered a 20 from them last night, looking forward to puting it in a topflight Corsair

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

I have mine in a .60-size H-9 F6F. I'm using a Master Airscrew 16x8x3 prop. It flies terrific.

w1nd6urfa

My Feedback: (4)

Wow!
Mine is overpowered with a Saito 100 and a 14x7x3, can't imagine how fast it goes on the 20cc!

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

I have an old weed eater engine, but this is my first real rc gas engine, so it will be some trial and errer"

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

The MA 16x8x3 is NOT a very efficient prop. A 2-blade 16x8 will run a lot faster. I like the 3-blade for the look, and the flywheel effect for a smooth idle. I'll throw on an APC 16x8 when someone wants to see speed.

qspilotcmh

Thanks for the feedback! For those running the 20 did you have to alter your timing? How was the compression? Mine is still loose after a gallon of gas running Stihl Ultra HP 32:1.

If I can get rid if the carb spray and rough midrange I will be happy. It appears to be a nice engine with a true Walbro carb, rcexl ignition, and NGK plug.

Rick-p

Case - I'm working on 2 planes right now - 1-aerowks Edge 540 50cc and an Extra 330 SC by aerobeez. Problem is I need to run both exhausts through a single, medium size ProFlo canister. I've got the ProFlos already. I need the plumbing - headers, "Y" connector and pipe extension to get back to the can. I've just about exhausted all my options. Where do I go from here? I talket to Tim at VV & he told me that the plumbing for the 40cc twin was made especially for that engine and can't be altered to fir anything else. I asked him for the name of the co. that made them in hops that I could get them interested. I'd really be interested i9f you or your friends could point me in the right direction. Thanks, Rick-p