Kill switch question
#26
Senior Member
RE: Kill switch question
ORIGINAL: [email protected]
Hi guys. I'm still new and learning about gas engines. I have a DLE 20 and am not a fan of not being able to kill it without first catching it. I bought a cheap little GP servo operated kill switch and am unclear on something. So it only has two wires. The package says one to the engine for ground, and one to the ign. Ok, so do I put that wire in between the battery and engine. I figured as much, but wanted to be sure before I just went ahead and tried and burned something out. Thanks for any advise or tips, Steve.
Hi guys. I'm still new and learning about gas engines. I have a DLE 20 and am not a fan of not being able to kill it without first catching it. I bought a cheap little GP servo operated kill switch and am unclear on something. So it only has two wires. The package says one to the engine for ground, and one to the ign. Ok, so do I put that wire in between the battery and engine. I figured as much, but wanted to be sure before I just went ahead and tried and burned something out. Thanks for any advise or tips, Steve.
This thing gives you remote control over arming and disarmingyour ignition. Very convenient and safe. All ofmy gas planesare set-up this way.... Cost is moderate at around $40, directly from Tech Aero or distribution
#27
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RE: Kill switch question
ORIGINAL: m hargrove
Could just closing the choke work?
Could just closing the choke work?
To use it to stop the engine on the ground for safety in the event of a runaway, etc...is not a good idea.
#29
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RE: Kill switch question
THATwas a "poorly-tuned engine", to be sure!!!!!
ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey
I've seen an engine running on choke run long enough to shoot across the pits and take a chunk out of a chain link safety fence.
The fence did its job, the choke however wasn't seating correctly.
I've seen an engine running on choke run long enough to shoot across the pits and take a chunk out of a chain link safety fence.
The fence did its job, the choke however wasn't seating correctly.
#30
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RE: Kill switch question
Wow. Who would have thought this would be such a hot topic. I'm seeing that there are many different ways of killing a gas engine. Some better than others, but every one has their own ways of doing things. I chose to go with the opto, and it does just what I want it to do. Thanks to every one who took the time to answer my questions. Steve.
#32
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RE: Kill switch question
ORIGINAL: littlera
I will ALWAYS use an optical kill switch on any gas engine. The electronic ignition affords a measure of safety not available with glow. In the case of loss of signal, even momentary, will kill the engine. You can kill it from the Tx too, in case of any linkage or servo failure. Not expensive, and affords great peace of mind for me.
I will ALWAYS use an optical kill switch on any gas engine. The electronic ignition affords a measure of safety not available with glow. In the case of loss of signal, even momentary, will kill the engine. You can kill it from the Tx too, in case of any linkage or servo failure. Not expensive, and affords great peace of mind for me.
CR
#34
My Feedback: (11)
RE: Kill switch question
ORIGINAL: Charley
I don't want a momentary loss of signal to kill my engine. What if I get control back and the model is too far downwind to glide back to the field? I would rather that the fail safe reduce the engine RPM to low idle.
CR
I don't want a momentary loss of signal to kill my engine. What if I get control back and the model is too far downwind to glide back to the field? I would rather that the fail safe reduce the engine RPM to low idle.
CR
But if thats your choice, then setting the proper fail safe will give you what you want, kill -on/throttle - low
#35
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RE: Kill switch question
My experience with Fail Safe setups has proven to me that it only really creates an illusion that the pilot *may* regain control before the crash, or during it.
A "sort of" properly functioning radio is really worse than one that just dies, at least from my experience.
Fail safe if "intermittent" could leave you with a killed engine, and no means of restarting it if you did "get it back". I prefer that a radio failure just crash the thing, ending any doubt.
A "sort of" properly functioning radio is really worse than one that just dies, at least from my experience.
Fail safe if "intermittent" could leave you with a killed engine, and no means of restarting it if you did "get it back". I prefer that a radio failure just crash the thing, ending any doubt.
ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey
I would always rather err on the side of a dead engine. If you're experiencing enough signal loss with a modern radio to invoke fail safe, you're probably not going to get signal back. If you are getting yourself in that situation where it comes and goes, then your power system is probably inadaquate for the flight load.
But if thats your choice, then setting the proper fail safe will give you what you want, kill -on/throttle - low
ORIGINAL: Charley
I don't want a momentary loss of signal to kill my engine. What if I get control back and the model is too far downwind to glide back to the field? I would rather that the fail safe reduce the engine RPM to low idle.
CR
I don't want a momentary loss of signal to kill my engine. What if I get control back and the model is too far downwind to glide back to the field? I would rather that the fail safe reduce the engine RPM to low idle.
CR
But if thats your choice, then setting the proper fail safe will give you what you want, kill -on/throttle - low
#36
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Older thread but good topic. I'm new to gas too. I have a DLE 30 and a Spektrum DX7s. There is only throttle return on failsafe. What I did was a combination of things mentioned above. Great planes mechanical switch, re soldered to N.C. as above, operated by throttle servo arm with dubro servo saver spring installed to allow servo arm movement beyond throttle stop position. This cuts power to optical kill switch. I had to bind the receiver with my throttle trim all the way down (enough to actuate the mechanical switch). Then set the idle trim after binding. I then set my throttle kill to work off trainer button (-20%) to kill the engine on the ground.
This set up allows me to keep the throttle stop and return spring on the DLE carb. Kill the engine conveniently with trainer switch at any time and kill the engine in case of signal loss. If the servo fails I'm out of luck, but I could kill it even if I lost the whole linkage.
This set up allows me to keep the throttle stop and return spring on the DLE carb. Kill the engine conveniently with trainer switch at any time and kill the engine in case of signal loss. If the servo fails I'm out of luck, but I could kill it even if I lost the whole linkage.