DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I just installed this on my top flite fw190. Pretty cool set up, no instructions. Did a quickie photo series. Its available from milehighrc.com

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

I have one on my EME 55. Works flawlessly.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Well that's a pretty neat product for a very good price, and you made an excellent presentation of it.

I guess some of the scale guys would like it, as I would for a sport plane myself just for grins, but the 3D guys won't want the weight.

Cool.

AV8TOR

Whistling Death

They sell the starter and the controller separately. Why?

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

I had to add 1lb14oz to the TF GS Corsair. How heavy is this set up with the battery you picked?

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

What Size of Battery does it require? Volts & Mah?

rcguy59

My Feedback: (8)

Hi, Chris. Mike here. We met at the Flying Heritage Collection a few weeks ago. I have one of these starters on a DLE55 in a TF GS P-47. I use a 1800 mah 3S LiPo that will give 150+ starts on a charge. I was able to remove ALL of the nose weight. If you put the battery up front ahead of the firewall, you should be able to lose all of your ballast.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Who sells them and what is the cost?

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Never mind I see it in the first post.

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

For those inquiring about the weight of the system, the starter, battery (3S 1700 mAh), and relay added 1.1lbs to the nose of my ESM Fw-190. That allowed me to remove all of my ballast so it was a net weight gain of about 1 oz in the nose.

If you don't want to pay $30 for that controller, it's easy to rig up a system using a switch and an SPDT relay that will cost you all of $5. That's what I did since when I bought mine they had not release the controller yet.

Cheers to the OP for the nice write up!

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

1.1 lbs. is quite a bit actually. I wonder why they used a heavy, old tech, brushed motor??

Also, I think whomever designed it should have made it wider in one area or added a brace somehow so that it would automatically sit square on the engine. The OP's instructions show how it needs to be mounted square; this would be very important because it determines the gear lash between the reduction gear on the starter plate and the reduction gear mounted on the engine shaft.

But, all in all it is still neat. Could someone tell me what the outside diameter of the front snout on a DLE 55 is?? (Where the starter mounting plate goes.) I want to see if it will fit any of my engines that are not DLE 55's.

AV8TOR

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

It's not that much for a short nosed warbird that need the nose weight anyway. Might as well add ballast with something functional.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Very true.

Front bearing snout outside diameter dimension anyone??

Thanks,
AV8TOR

capnduane

My EME 55 is 1.54ins, 39.2mm outside diameter.

chadxp1

My Feedback: (2)

is there a one way bearing in the idler gear or final gear? Obviously adding gears is going to rob power from the engine but Im not sure how much. You could even set this up to recharge you battery's if where a generator

capnduane

Starter has one way bearing. http://www.milehighrc.com/EME_E_Start.html

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Is that a misprint? Do you mean "DLE" 55? If so, thanks!

AV8TOR

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

No, he means EME. The DLE has the same dimension though.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks,

AV8TOR

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Would Pnuematic Brakes on the Main Gear on any of the 50cc size Warbird, like the TF FW190, P-40, etc; be enough to hold the Plane while the Engine ran up a bit, the reason I ask, how cool would it be if you had one of these Electric Starters in one of the these Warbirds and from your Radio you could totally start the Engine, run it up and taxi and take off without ever having to hold the plane, talk about a scale presentation.

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

I am afraid that two things would likely happen. One, since nearly all WW2 warbirds were taildraggers with the exception of the P-39, that when trying to run up the engine just against wheel brakes the airplane would just nose over and destroy an expensive prop. If that didn't happen, the wheels would almost certainly just slide when high power was supplied.

A while back I saw a video of a plane sitting on one of those big wooden starting stands. The stand was about 3 feet high or so, and had wheels on the front two legs, but not on the back two legs. It had two wood vertical uprights that the wing went up against. The guy starts up the plane, steps back from the stand, and adds power. Incredibly, he taxied the airplane AND the stand it was on to about 40 feet away. Even more incredibly, he then added rudder, turned the stand around, and taxied it back. This was all on a grass field where it would be tougher to drag the stand than it would be on pavement.

I just looked for half an hour and can't find that video. Anyone else here seen it?

EDIT: Never mind, I found it. I was wrong, it only has one back leg without a wheel that gets drug, but still....
Check it out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGfvi...layer_embedded

AV8TOR

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Yes, thats exactly what I figured would happen, nose over for sure, but how sweet it would look if it would work!

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Maybe a tail hook device like carrier planes?? That could hold the plane while you ran it up....

AV8TOR

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

I want one of these for my TF GS P47, are you able to energize the SPDT relay to start to motor from your transmitter, or is it a physical on/off switch on the plane?

irocbsa

My Feedback: (12)

The relay is a energized by a momentary switch that is depressed by a servo connected to the momentary switch on my transmitter.