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Thread: ZEnoah G-62


  1. #26

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Thanks for the input fellows. It is definitely a G-62 with a walbro HDA 48c carb. I've owned several G-62s and it says Zenoah on one side of the cylinder and 3366 which I believe is the serial number on the other side. I don't know if the ignition is the old mechanical CH or not. I can't find any identifying marks. The ignition is mounted in an aluminum box on the back that takes the place of the cup mount. I don't think I know how to post a picture on this venue. I decided to get as close to the setup when I had it running 3 weeks ago so I checked the fuel tank (nothing wrong) and took out the gasket between the carb and phenolic block. its just like before. I put the choke on and flip til it fires (1 or 2 flips) then choke off and it fires up for maybe 4 seconds. I did find that in order to draw fuel with a empty carb I either have to choke it or turn it over faster with a starter (plug out, can't turn it with a starter with the plug in). Also when I turn it over by hand with my thumb blocking the velocity stack and the throttle open it pushes fuel out around the choke shaft and I don't get fuel running out of the plug hole. If someone wants to see a picture I could email it to you. mine is budnjoy@live.com, Incidentally this is a giant stinger I used to have a G-62 on but let someone talk me out of it to put on a warbird. I then put a 3W 60 on it but didn't like it as much as the G-62 so when I got a chance at this one I bought it. Bud

  2. #27
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62


    ORIGINAL: ron a norman

    I believe that there is something else going on here. In the original post the Op states that the engine has the old style mechanical timing advance.. A Zenoha has no mechanical advance.. i know that C&H made Electronic conversions . But these only replaced the mag coil and the flywheel. No mechanical advance, I'm Betting that this is not a G-62. Post a picture or two. Not claiming to know it all, ive just never seen a G-62 with a mechanical timing system. I'll bet it's in the ignition system.
    I bet this is an RCIgnitions conversion G62 with the electronic module inside the cup mount and the standard mechanical advance linkage.

    Brian Ray

  3. #28
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    If you are pulling the plug and the plug is dry then it's obviously only running off of the prime .
    DId you use the black pump and metering diaphragms in the carb?
    Did you blow-out all of the passage ways including LS&HS needles with carb cleaner or WD-40?
    Did you clean the screen?
    The float isn't stuck closed?
    The pulse port is unobstructed from the carb through the block and into the engine?

    The engine would have to be in real bad shape to not draw some fuel and run even poorly.


    Brian Ray

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Brian, you may be right on the ignition. It is inside of a square aluminum box that is in place of the standard cup mount. The repair kit that I got only had the tan pump diaphragm which was what was in it to begin with. The metering diaphragm is black. All the passages are clear, screen is clean, float valve free, everything checks out. I just don't understand why it won't draw fuel. Bud

  5. #30

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62


    ORIGINAL: ron a norman

    I believe that there is something else going on here. In the original post the Op states that the engine has the old style mechanical timing advance.. A Zenoha has no mechanical advance.. i know that C&H made Electronic conversions . But these only replaced the mag coil and the flywheel. No mechanical advance, I'm Betting that this is not a G-62. Post a picture or two. Not claiming to know it all, ive just never seen a G-62 with a mechanical timing system. I'll bet it's in the ignition system.
    The Zenoah had none, but the CH conversions had the mechanical advance. With life time warrantee!

    Pe, (www.mvvs.nl), MVVS, MOKImotor, RCexl, MTW, Xoar, Mejzlik.
    Blessing in ignorance? There is sanctuary in analysis.

  6. #31
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62


    ORIGINAL: Bud@Branson

    Brian, you may be right on the ignition. It is inside of a square aluminum box that is in place of the standard cup mount. The repair kit that I got only had the tan pump diaphragm which was what was in it to begin with. The metering diaphragm is black. All the passages are clear, screen is clean, float valve free, everything checks out. I just don't understand why it won't draw fuel. Bud
    The black one is more flexible and pumps the best but also is the first to harden-up. The blkue one is the next that's not a flexible but holds-up better to additives in the gas. The tan ones are the stiffest I believe(could be wrong). The kits I get have all three color pumps and I use either the black or blue ones. If it's a tought one to get to I put in the blue if it's easy the black.

    Brian Ray

  7. #32

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    The mylar (blue) is the stiffest with lowest fuel delivery. Still plenty for all engines.
    Pe, (www.mvvs.nl), MVVS, MOKImotor, RCexl, MTW, Xoar, Mejzlik.
    Blessing in ignorance? There is sanctuary in analysis.

  8. #33
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    This should help. Dan.
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    Dan

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Dan dont appreciate you using my powerpoint. Bud take your DLE 30 carb and put it on the zenoah. Although the 30cc carb is smaller it will allow the zenoah to run. This will also allow you to eliminate if it is the carb.
    When all else fails pull the right stick down!

  10. #35
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Is that your powerpoint? Thanks. I was wondering where I got it. It's been very helpfull. Dan.
    Dan

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Yes I posted that along with other pictures and directions on how to rebuild a walboro carb
    When all else fails pull the right stick down!

  12. #37

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Ok Bud. I am a little hesitant to post my pictures here. But here is the full load. Also there are pictures showing the primary and secondary screens. I suspect that you have some debris in the main screen. That is why I asked you to swap your carb with the DLE carb.

    Go to your lawn mower shop and buy a rebuild kit. they are around 12 to 15 dollars.

    However I still suggest you swap carbs first.

    If all else fails send the engine to Antique and it will come back running like a top.

    Regards
    Glenn Williams
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    When all else fails pull the right stick down!

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    your carb may not have secondary screens. If it does. Do not remove them. Take your needles out and use carb cleaner to blow through the needle holes. Use safety glasses as well. Trust me on this.

    Regards
    Glenn Williams
    When all else fails pull the right stick down!

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    IF your Walbro has a Secondary Screen, it will be located on the "float" side of the carb. You will have to remove the 4 screws holding the float diaphragm cover, and remove the float diaphragm. If you see a brass insert as shown in the photo, there's a screen below that insert. DO NOT attempt to remove the insert & screen! You will damage both. All you need to do is BACK-FLUSH the screen through ONE of the tuning needles. The way to do this is, close off ONE of the needles, and remove the other. Using an aerosol carb cleaner pressurize the carb through the removed needle hole.

    CAUTION!!! Do not get carb cleaner in your eyes!!! I can't even begin to tell you how painful and damaging this is to your eyes! So please use a face shield! When the secondary screen is completely back-flushed, the carb cleaner will flow readily through the insert.

    When you're done, re-assemble the carb and adjust BOTH needles to the factory settings. This is typically 1.75 turns on each. Some kits include filter screens and some don't. If your kit has the screen use it.

    The Walbro Kit Number for all WT carbs is: K20-WAT

    Regards
    Glenn Williams
    When all else fails pull the right stick down!

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    I have a G62 with mechanical advance. Ralph set it up for me.
    Its a great running engine. Its getting a bit old now
    dirty old men need love too.

  16. #41
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Glenn, Thanks for the full set. Dan.
    Dan

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62



    Bud -



    I found this over on another page ... does your engine look like this?



    the RC Ignitions G62 Conversion
    Type:2-StrokeDisplacement: 3.80 cu in (62.0 cc)Bore:1.90 in (47.5 mm)Stroke:1.40 in (35.0 mm)Cylinders: Single - Chrome PlatedEngine Weight
    (w/prop nut & washer): 4lb 3oz
    (Stock G62 weighs 4lb 9oz)Stock Muffler Weight: 9 oz.Prop Range: 20x10 - 24x8RPM Range: 2,000 - 8,500Fuel:
    Gas/Oil mixMuffler Type: Stock or any Aftermarket
    G62 MufflerCylinder Type: RingCarb Type: Walbro HDA-48 DCrank Type: Ball BearingIgnition: Electronic – Mechanical Advance or Electronic Advance optionsBattery: 4.8v – 6v NiCad
    (500mah or more) Making a great engine better




    The RC Ignitions G62 Conversion is a standard Zenoah G62 2-stroke gasoline engine that has been modified with electronic ignition, a custom cup mount with integrated ignition module and a few other minor modifications. The custom electronic ignition module is completely encased in a strong aluminum cup mount pre-installed on the back of the engine.







    A standard RCA Audio Cable is used to connect the ignition to your battery. Any NiCad of 500mah and up will run the engine for approximately 2 hours. The ignition will accept a 4.8v or 6v battery source with no regulator required. This engine is available in 2 different configurations, one with the automatic electronic timing advance (as shown), or with a standard mechanical timing advance mechanism.
    A custom carb block replaces the stock one to rotate the carb for easier throttle linkage in aircraft applications. Therefore, the throttle linkage is already set up for a straight shot back to the firewall and includes a ball-link linkage pre-installed, ready to go. Another advantage of this custom carb block is that it is only 3/8" thick, about half of the thickness of a stock block, allowing you to squeeze into tighter cowl restraints.
    The choke lever is stock and provides for a straight shot out the side of the cowl, unless you decide to modify with your own preferred bellcrank and linkage to change the line of pull. The custom prop shaft/hub can be made to whatever length you require. The average shaft provides a distance of 6-5/8" from firewall to spinner backplate.
    Initial observations of this engine is that it appears to be of very high quality as it starts with the bullet-proof reputation of the Zenoah engine line, and is further enhanced with some high-quality engineering and features from RC Ignitions.
    At approximately 6 ounces lighter than the stock Zenoah G62 (Magneto), the engine already provides more power to weight ratio than its stock counterpart. Add to that the easier starts and smoother idling traits of an electronic ignition and you have a great combination. Many satisfied customers have made claims that the engine simply runs smoother, stronger and faster than any G62 on the market today.
    Here's another big plus with this conversion engine... warranty. There is a lifetime guarantee on all ignition parts and mount, including crash damage! While it does not cover the Zenoah components, RC Ignitions will straighten cranks for $40 plus shippping.


    ... I DO read the instructions ...

  18. #43
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Bud sent me some pics of his engine. It's a conversion by someone, RCI , CH, ??

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    Brian Ray

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Well fellows here's what happened. I cleaned the carb as directed by Glenn Williams. One small piece of junk came out of the high side. Today I got it started at a low RPM but it would die in transition. Both needles set at 1.75 open. I let it run a couple minutes at low idle and then slammed the throttle open and I got full RPM. when I tried to back off from full throttle it would run rough and die at about 3/4 throttle. I tried about 1/2 turn either side in 1/8 increments on both needles I was able to get it to run a few more times in idle and wide open (seemed to run good wide open). But the needle adjustments didn't seem to make much difference, I never could get it to run in mid range. Any ideas? or just send it off to Ralph. Thanks, Bud

  20. #45

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Have you rebuilt the carb using fresh parts? I did not see you posting about that. It seems like your carb has a hardened or misplaced regulating diaphragm.
    Pe, (www.mvvs.nl), MVVS, MOKImotor, RCexl, MTW, Xoar, Mejzlik.
    Blessing in ignorance? There is sanctuary in analysis.

  21. #46

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Yes It's rebuilt. I even moved the timing back and forth. I could tell if I got too far off it wouldn't start or would backfire, etc.

  22. #47

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Have you normalized the carb?
    When all else fails pull the right stick down!

  23. #48

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Just reread your post. If it is dying going from idle to wide open then close the low speed needle more and leave the high speed needle alone. Keep doing this to the low end needle until you get a smooth transition to wide open. Also ensure your plug gap is set properly.

    Bear in mind both needles come into play about the midrange area. however playing with both is tough. You may find that you have to open the high speed needle a tad after the engine is warm and on the top end.

    Being that you have a new ring installed I would let the engine idle for awhile say2 to 5 minutesthen go to full speed for about 30 to no more than 60 seconds and back down to idle. Turn off the engine and allow it to cool for at least an hour or 2. Repeat this process about 15 times. This will allow the engine to heat cycle and help seat the ring.

    If the engine is not responding to needle settings you might want to invest in a new carb as either the needles are worn out or the needle seats in the carb or worn.

    Also normalizing the carb if you have not done so will help when the engine is flying. If you do not know how to do this let me know. I will walk you through it.

    Regards
    Glenn Williams
    When all else fails pull the right stick down!

  24. #49
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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    Glenn, normalizing the carburetor is a new term for me. How is it done? I’ve been involved with the Walbro WTs only and except for changing the parts that come in the rebuild kit and tuning the needles I don’t know of anything else that can be done. What am I missing? Dan.
    Dan

  25. #50

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    RE: ZEnoah G-62

    A very common problem with cowled in engines is, the air pressure in flight changes the "natural" pressure on the float diaphragm. This causes the engine to run rich in flight. There are several possible fixes available. Most of the time you can simply tune your engine for flight by trial & error. However, the easiest fix is to open up the cowling around the carb area to lower the air pressure. You may also rotate the cover to different positions to see if that works. The "BEST" fix is to solder a piece of brass tubing where the vent is, and route the vent line to a better location. I normally route it into the fuse going through the firewall. It works perfectly every time! Plus, your ground tune doesn't change in flight!

    Regards
    Glenn Williams
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    When all else fails pull the right stick down!


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