mrfx2001

My Feedback: (2)

Hay folks, I just went on a hunt for Slimline stuff and found the site down, everyone that stocks the stuff can't get it and cannot contact anyone there. I don't want much, just a o-ring kit for the M4 manual fuel pump pro cap260. Any idea where I can get the rings or the spec for the parts. [email protected]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Match the O rings up at the hardware store

mrfx2001

My Feedback: (2)

Yep, already thought of that. Rings so old, dia. and thickness are not even close to be measurable. (not to mention broken and segments missing). Material is unknown to me also. I'm sure someone has done the research and knows a source. Like my 9cap crow program, i will post the solution once I know of one.
TKS for the reply. Fearless

mustangman177

Just getting into gas engines,( DLE 35 RA), and looking at my gas can set up, I see I am doing it all wrong.

What I was using is a metal "gas" can that is not sealed from the atmospheric air. The fill line is always open. Also, the gas is not treated with sta-bil stabilizer.

After reading this tthread, I invested in a plastic 2.5 gal blitz gas can, treated my ethanol free gas with sta-bil stabilizer, and sealed the fill line. similar to earlwb's system.



Any additional modifications I need to make here to keep fuel fresh ? Thanks for this informative thread. Engine was surging after full throttle and returning to idle, but has not done this since taking the fuel precautions. Possible solution to the problem ? I also richened the low end needle valve that was also suggested as a possible cause.

Thanks

Cary

spaceworm

Mix only what you expect to use over a couple week period. Use aviation gas if possible; no ethanol, and blended to stay "fresh" for log storage periods. Plus it smells a lot better than auto pump gas. I use Coleman lantern fuel (white gas) in my G23, but it is low octane (50) and not recommended for higher compression engines by the engine Mfrs. Good luck

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Your setup looks nice, but let me know if you ever find a glue that will keep holding that pump to the gas can like that. Never found one yet. Though I have yet to try Shoe Goo.... That might work; just haven't got around trying it yet. That silicone you've used will eventually come loose.

AV8TOR

mustangman177

This particular gas can set up is not mine, but rather a picture of "Earlwb" set-up that I copied ( See post #9). I "Zip tied" My dubro hand crank fuel pump to the handle. I don't know how he got the hand crank to stay there. Tough glue !!

On another note, I inspected the carb. filter screen, and found it to contain alot of debris. Took a Q-Tip and cleaned out along with compressed air (being careful not to dislodge the screen). I'm sure this was contributing to the surging as well !!! Learning as I go with these gas engines.

Thanks for the help.

Cary

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

It's not hard to take that screen out and clean or replace it, what's hard is not losing it in the process. A hobby, or Exacto knife can be used to gently pry it out of it's home, then you can clean it with carb spray. Then the back handle end of the hobby knife works perfectly to carefully push the screen back into place. That screen can have a covering of a clear, shellac like deposit that you can't see but is effectively dissolved/cleaned with carb spray.

AV8TOR

mustangman177

Thanks for the tip. To get to the carb.filter screen, I have to remove the engine from the plane, then the muffler before I can get to the back plate.