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Old 12-25-2017, 06:59 AM
  #576  
SWORDSN
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Keep us posted tyor
Old 12-25-2017, 09:34 AM
  #577  
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Done a little more today. Black heat resistant paint on the ring. and startet on the scale part of the ekshaust. It will end on each side where the wastegate was on the fullsize. I wanted to take it out back in front of the tailwheel also, as the main ekshaust is on the fullsize. but so much pipe will add a lot of weight.
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:53 PM
  #578  
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first start with the engine mounted in the plane. needs some tuning

Old 02-25-2018, 12:31 PM
  #579  
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Default Problems in the march of the Moki 250 cc

Hello friends of the forum, I am Ariel from Argentina and I am in contact to see if any of you have information about a cut in the march of the Moki 250 cc due to high temperatures or lack of ventilation in cylinders or ignition, what can I say is that the latter I have installed just behind one of the cylinders, removed about 8 inches back. On the side of the ventilation of the same, I think they are with enough air flow both input and output, the model is a Gee Bee r3 of 128 inches in span, I hope someone can tell me something about it, thank you very much, greetings to all.-
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Old 02-25-2018, 02:10 PM
  #580  
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You need to baffle the engine.
All the cool air is going past the cylinders, and out the vents.....and not giving any cooling :-)
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Old 02-26-2018, 05:00 AM
  #581  
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Default Ariel from Argentina

Originally Posted by SJN
You need to baffle the engine.
All the cool air is going past the cylinders, and out the vents.....and not giving any cooling :-)
Originally Posted by extramini
Hello friends of the forum, I am Ariel from Argentina and I am in contact to see if any of you have information about a cut in the march of the Moki 250 cc due to high temperatures or lack of ventilation in cylinders or ignition, what can I say is that the latter I have installed just behind one of the cylinders, removed about 8 inches back. On the side of the ventilation of the same, I think they are with enough air flow both input and output, the model is a Gee Bee r3 of 128 inches in span, I hope someone can tell me something about it, thank you very much, greetings to all.-
Thank you SJN, very much
Old 06-15-2018, 12:45 AM
  #582  
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Wanted to show off my 3D printed dummies on the baffles for the Saito FG33R3 in my Phoenix 180cm Corsair but I'm new here and the forum won't let me..... :-(

Hope to maiden this weekend. Breakin has been done last year and the build is now almost done, took my time on the ringexhaust, motormount and the retracts.
Old 06-15-2018, 01:13 AM
  #583  
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Her is a video of maiden with p47 from cy-models. The variprop did not make enough power and the plane take off to early before it had enough speed. so I almost lost it.

Next test with a 24x10 2blade prop. And it was like another plane. flies great. but I have problem with the engine getting to hot. so I am making some baffeling now.
Old 06-15-2018, 01:46 AM
  #584  
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Looking good! Bit hairy on the first take-off, good save!

How did you break the engine in? Recommended very rich running for a few tanks?? My 33 did an hour very (VERY) rich running and after that a half hour or so somewhat leaner, al on the stand. Built it in the airframe since then and ran for the first time with the ringexhaust in the plane two weeks ago. Ran for half an hour or so and now I'm very carefully leaning everything out, still a bit on the rich side of things. Now all cilinders start to play along together nice (temps are starting to match). Running a smallish adviced prop 17x8 two blade. Would love to go 18 or 20 inch three blade, but got the advice to hold back on a big prop until a lot more running hours are on the engine....

Will post pictures / video when allowed.

Keep it in one piece!

Last edited by Reennie; 06-15-2018 at 01:48 AM. Reason: Typo's
Old 06-15-2018, 02:39 AM
  #585  
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I run in the engine as recomended in the manual. have used the engine in 2 different planes before. so it have som runtime now
Old 06-15-2018, 04:44 AM
  #586  
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Did you do some of the manifold mods? Or are you running stock? And if so; is the engine performing as to be expected?

Mine is running quite alright and I wish to keep it that way. :-) I've read all kinds of doom stories about underperforming Saito radials and / or running hot problems or breakdown problems with them.

Good luck with your P47!
Old 06-15-2018, 07:17 AM
  #587  
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Running stock. only made ringexhaust myself. The trick to adjust the saito radials is to monitor the temp on the sylinder 1. and dont adjust it to lean on the higspeed needle. the manual said 2 turn on the fg84. I use 4.5turn and adjust the midrange with the lowspeed needle.
Old 06-15-2018, 10:46 AM
  #588  
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Thanks for the advice! I'm already very careful with the mixture. Was obvious during first breakin that #1 is the leanest, with the very (very) rich mixture it is the only cilinder that gets luke warm. The others stayed almost completely cold. Now they are almost even.

With my 33cc engine the base setting in the manual is on the rich side. To get all cilinders to fire you have to lean the mixture. This is on the full throttle setting and mid range.

Will maiden this weekend (if all is well). Will try to get some video.
Old 06-15-2018, 12:05 PM
  #589  
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Good luck. Please get some video I also have 2x fg19 in a A26.
Old 06-16-2018, 10:14 PM
  #590  
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Very beautiful plane tyor!

Sound of the twin radials is also very beautiful!
Old 06-17-2018, 12:51 PM
  #591  
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Maidenflight is on Youtube. Still not allowed to post links, but if you look for "Reennie" on Youtube it's the first video in the list when you're interested. Will post the video directly when allowed.


Everything went well. Bit windy today, so kept the risk down to just one flight.
Old 06-17-2018, 01:15 PM
  #592  
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Congratulation. Nice plane and nice flying
Old 06-17-2018, 01:54 PM
  #593  
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The goal for today was to keep it in one piece. Step by step.... 😊
Next up is hovering and the 3D blender.... 😎
Old 06-19-2018, 11:44 AM
  #594  
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The goal for today was to keep it in one piece again. Failed this time. Not enough power / speed, forced it up (stupid me), stall and lots of small pieces of wood in the grass. Hope the engine is not damaged (at first glance not). Plane has gotten off worse. Will get back...
Old 06-19-2018, 07:26 PM
  #595  
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Unhappy Oh no!!

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. That is always tough.
Old 06-24-2018, 02:35 AM
  #596  
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Engine tested on the stand yesterday. Everything fine and dandy. Messed around with the needle settings and the engine is picking up much better now. Received plywood for the plane and glassfiber and resin for the new to be fabricated cowl. Now see to get some time for the rebuild. Will get back.
Old 06-24-2018, 09:01 AM
  #597  
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good your engine is fine. wood and epoxy can be replaced
Old 06-24-2018, 06:35 PM
  #598  
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Yes, glad the engine is OK! The wood can be fixed/replaced...
Old 07-28-2018, 05:18 AM
  #599  
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Flying with the thunderbolt yesterday. IT is 30degree celsius so the engine run a little hot.
Old 07-30-2018, 09:06 PM
  #600  
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Question for you FG84 and FG90 owners: I have an 84 RE Mod and have flown a stock 84 engine as well. Both have a characteristic “miss” in flight. The RE Mod just recently starting doing this after what I’d consider it just being broke in.
I have not researched this yet I just wanted to post a question and see if anyone has a solution.
Currently the engine has had a valve adjustment and all new NGK CM6 plugs. The exhaust is “clean” and mush less sooty or black than just a couple tanks ago which is why I consider it to be over the break in hump. I have also noted a small loss in peak RPM compared to just a few tanks ago.
It was over reving a Xoar 24x14 at 7400rpm so I switched to a Beila 23x12x3 and 6880 rpm. When I noticed less rev’s I changed back to the Xoar last weekend. Lately the weather around here has been hot with low humidity and I have adjusted the carb on the day as needed. Temps have been under control.
So basically I’m just looking to see if this jives with others experiences and if there is an adjustment or other solution.

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