DLE 20 ra mounting
#3
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SydneyNSW, AUSTRALIA
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I have the DLE-20RA and have just set it up using Great Planes 70-1.20 mount.
The muffler clears the screws easily.
Depending on the required distance from firewall to prop hub you might have to cut the cross beams on the mount to clear the carb.
I have the DLE-20RA and have just set it up using Great Planes 70-1.20 mount.
The muffler clears the screws easily.
Depending on the required distance from firewall to prop hub you might have to cut the cross beams on the mount to clear the carb.
#4
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Singapore, SINGAPORE
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u can juz flip the carb 180deg so the needles are facing upward unobstructed by the muffler, dun worry e engine will run fine wif carb either side as the pulse passages are built into both sides of the reed valves, its not like those engine where the carb can only face one side to have the pulse passage properly connected to engine with a short external fuel line
#6
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Dryden, ON, CANADA
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I have the DLE-20 side exhaust and my LHS sold me the GP mount, though it is long enough on the beams to mount the engine, I do not have that much distance between my firewall and my prop hub location to use this mount, I will have to open a hole through my firewall for the carb, so I will also have to use the Dubro 120 soft mount. Need to visit a shop before I can mount.
#7
My Feedback: (19)
I like the Hanger 9 metal motor mounts. Allows clearance all the way to the firewall and much less flexible than the GP mounts that I've also used with success.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/ultra-m...-61-22-han2033
https://www.horizonhobby.com/ultra-m...-61-22-han2033
#8
I'll second the motion for the H9 Aluminum mounts!
They're a great option for beam mount engines in that size range. I have been running a DLE 20RA on those mounts for for the past coupla years. I find that engines seem to run a bit cooler with the added heat sink they provide.
I prefer the slotted mounting holes for the engine bolts for two reasons. First, I'm lazy, and second, they make adjusting spinner back plate to cowl spacing a real breeze.
Unless you break em' in a crash, they can be reused on a new build, something the composite plastic ones aren't so good for.
Pete
They're a great option for beam mount engines in that size range. I have been running a DLE 20RA on those mounts for for the past coupla years. I find that engines seem to run a bit cooler with the added heat sink they provide.
I prefer the slotted mounting holes for the engine bolts for two reasons. First, I'm lazy, and second, they make adjusting spinner back plate to cowl spacing a real breeze.
Unless you break em' in a crash, they can be reused on a new build, something the composite plastic ones aren't so good for.
Pete
#9
My Feedback: (9)
I've used the black mount shown above a few times. But I glued the tabs together on each end, cut out the center section and just used the beams. Looked like and overgrown CG mount when I was done.
Looking at your picture I would not fly it with the washer against the muffler. I think with a small ball peen hammer you could gain enough clearance reshaping the muffler to make it work.
David
Looking at your picture I would not fly it with the washer against the muffler. I think with a small ball peen hammer you could gain enough clearance reshaping the muffler to make it work.
David
#10