Big Windy

I have changed so many things at once I am not sure what the root cause might be.
Background:

DLE 30 flown as a side carb for a year with no issues.

Just incorporated the rear carb conversion
1st rear canister installation (which seems to be ok)
The engine was running hot and unreliable so I O.H. and cleaned the carb (a K10 WAT kit installed). Found sand in screen.
Hall pick up was intermittent so I replaced it
Timing adjusted to 28BTDC, then moved to 32.

Using multiple batteries to make sure there is not a power issue. The main ship is a 2 cell LiIO stepped down to 5.9V. Then I used a 4 cell NMHI directly to make sure all is well with the power supply.

The carb needles have been reset to 1.5 plus and minus many times.

At one point I had it running with a vey slight top end verbal, but good idle and acceleration. Ran out of fuel, now It is hard to start and does not want to run above 2500 - 3000 RPM.

What am I missing here? Is there something about the conversion I missed? Do I need to do something with timing? Should I use a K20 WAT OH kit again?

Any thoughts would be appreciated as I am really stumped…

DaveE61

The DLE 30 V2 rear carb timing is normally set to 46 deg. This might help

Big Windy

I will try that tomorrow . Thanks!

Rocketman_

46 degrees BTDC? You might want to avoid hand flipping the prop.

Big Windy

Understand. Is there any difference in timing as a result of the rear carb modification? I think not, but want to confirm.

I also plan to change the CDI to see if anything changes.

DaveE61

I actually own and fly a DLE 30 V2. It is set at 46 deg and runs very well. You might want to go to this address and learn what is in the manual.
http://manuals.hobbico.com/dle/dleg0030-0031-manual.pdf

Indiomike

My Feedback: (5)

That is just plain wrong. The Hobbico manual says 46 degrees and is incorrect but they have never corrected it. That engine should not be advanced more than 35 degrees max and will run better anywhere from 28 degrees to 35 degrees.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you own one of the DLE 30's and it runs with the timing set at that figure? You don't know how to set timing any more than the person that wrote that worthless manual.

If you turn the prop backwards you will get that 46 degree reading for a timing setting but what you are reading is not correct. The spark is triggered when the magnet leaves the sensor and if the engine is running in the correct direction, you will find that the timing is actually set in the low 30's region.

bcchi

Maybe he is like our customer who could not find top dead center as we instructed because his engine was mounted inverted.
28 to 30 degrees BTDC is the magic no. We can time up to 34 BTDC on some engines,we are at 5400 ft ASL.
BCCHI

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Why did you change it to rear intake if it ran so well with a side intake?

Big Windy

I thought I was going to use in a narrow cowl installation. That turned out not to be the case. The side mount had a mid high burble I never could sort out, but could fly around it.

I also have a DLE 50 and another rear DLE 30 that perform well.

Yes, I have no trouble finding TDC.

Big Windy

I absolutely agree and that is exactly what I am reading. 46 degrees and 30 degrees reading on the plastic wheel.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

My side-intake 30 had the same mid-range burble til I gapped the plug at .024. It's been fine ever since.

captinjohn

another amazing happy ending....Merry Christmas in advance! Oh its about 46 degrees temp here today...soon will drop to about 30 degrees................

Big Windy

Cold here too, 64, but climbing back to near 80 by the weekend. Floridians welcome Snow Birds for the next several months!! Bring you toys or come fix mine! Plenty to go around…

rmh

Ignition timing setups are different -depending on what type ignition is used
however they all will -if set correctly - have a full advance of up to 30 degrees when running at over about 3000rpm and will be retarded to maybe about 5 degrees at cranking rpm.. I have one of these here -which I am sticking on a model -for a friend
The ONLY time I ever ran 46 degrees full advance was on a 283 Chev with an 097 Duntov cam - this thing was lousy at low rpm and had to have lotsa advance
switching to a Engle 95 - required much lower settings and pulled like a freight train from about 3000 to 8000

captinjohn

+1

captinjohn

I hope it works out so we can go too Florida this winter. It feels good when you get there...but you gotta feel good enough too travel that far......

DaveE61

I also have a DL50 and a DLE 20 and a PTE36R. The DL 50 is set at 32 deg using the same method I used to check the timing on the DLE30. I can't check the timing dynamically and obvoiusly you can't either. I was very surprised when I checked the timing on the DLE30 and actually found mine at 45 deg.. I did reset it to 32 deg and it would not reach peak rpm. I set it back to 45 deg and it continues to run and idle very well. I do know how to find TDC; I checked the timinig on the bench and I actually know which the engines turns.

I guess you should write to the engineers and the folks who wrote the manual and tell them their engines won't run.

DaveE61

There is also the ignition module to take into account. I have no idea what it is doing with the timing.

Big Windy

I rechecked the timing and adjusted it to all extremes and found 30 TDC to be easy starting and great idle; However, I cannot get the engine RPM above 6,000 regardless of mixture. It suddenly dies out at 6K and runs fine back 2 to 4 K.

I changed plugs to another NGK CM 6 from my DLE 50, tested the hall sensor which tests good and looks like a constant spark on the tester at 6K and above.

New CDI from my known good DLE 50, New plug and then a known good plug from the DLE 50, Carb rebuild, and new rear exhaust conversion.

At this point I have convinced myself the timing is correct and fire is good, it must be fuel air carb related. I am overhauling again to see if I have missed something. I am not convinced the internal jet is modulating as it should, though I am not sure what the impact would be if not functioning correctly. I have noticed every time I open the cover it is flooded with fuel. it seems unusual and excessive to me.

Anything there I investigate or verify??

Thanks all for your suggestions.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

They don't know any more about engines than you do? I'll let you tell them. This is not a new discovery, it has been kicked around on here for several years. It is in the other DLE 30 thread somewhere?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

What prop are you running and how does the engine sound? Is the engine sagging or is it blubbering rich?

Big Windy

Mejzilk 18-8 carbon fiber prop. I do not think the prop has any effect as it was flown at 8K RPM with this prop before.

When you try to accelerate it acts normal to mid throttle (5.5K RPM) and then quickly stops like it is fuel starved. If I return to 5K or less all is immediately fine. I have opened high jets to 3 plus turns and the low jets to the point where it will not run, and all points in between.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

There's 2 things I know of that might cause what you're talking about. One you've been messing with, but could still be the root of your evil. It's regarding fuel flow? You can have the HS needle 10 turns out, but the engine isn't going to get any more fuel than what your fuel system can pass? There could be a restriction - somewhere, anywhere - between the fuel pick up in the tank and the carb passages leading to the venturi? An air leak would do the same?

The other thing is regarding the voltage the ign. module is getting. If it's low, it's going to go into "limp" mode, shutting down at higher rpm as the voltage drops below minimums (acting for all the world, JUST like a carb issue!). this has nothing to do with the static voltage of the battery, it's about what's available with a draw on it?