jstanton

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CustomPC,

I hear what you are saying and I agree with you 100% but I really like this little engine and I think it will work on my Seagull Cap232 if I could only fine the right prop. I picked up an Evolution 14x8 prop today and install it and I and getting 8900RPM with it. I hope to try it again tomorrow at the field if it is not to windy

jstanton

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Well here is another flight report. I changed to prop to a MAS Simitar 15x6 prop and this little engine really likes this prop. I am getting 9000RPM with a good idle of 1800rpm. My Seagull Cap 232 is flying like I remember. I did have a little trouble but now with the engine itself. I did not secure the muffler like I should have and I lost it on the 5th flight. I hope I can get another one Give this little engine some break-in time and she will run really well. I like the design of these NGH engine I went ahead and ordered the NGH GT25b from Agape Racing & Hobby it should be here Monday.

jstanton

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Good news it looks like Agape racing & Hobby has spare parts in stock for this NGH GT17. I e-mailed Jim and I got a reply right away saying he had the stock muffler in stock and it was only $18.99 so I went ahead and ordered one. I hope it is here this week so I can fly my Cap 232 this weekend.

jstanton

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Well I went flying again this last weekend with my Cap 232 and the NGH GT17 engine. Again the engine ran without any issues and is getting better after each run. I am now getting a good 1700RPM idle and hitting 9000RPM with a APC 14x8 prop. This engine really likes the 14x8 & 15x6 props. I am still having an issue with the muffler coming lose again after about 4 flights. I have lock washers and red loctite on the bolts and with all of that the muffler is still coming loss. I am going to drill a 3/32 hole into each hex bolt and run a wire through each bolt so there will be now way for the bolts to back out. Earle did you have any issues with your muffler getting lose while you where flying?

irocbsa

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Safety wire is a great option, but give high temp red silicone a shot. Just a dab on each of the bolts will prevent them from backing out. A lot of us have had good luck with this method.

jstanton

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Thanks for the tip on the Red Silicone high Temp stuff. I'll give it a try. Will this work on all nuts & bolts you don't want to come lose?

jstanton

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This is a good ruuning little engine and has never gien me and trouble with the way it runs. It does has a problem with the stock muller staying together. I can finelly get the muffler to stay bolted to the engine but it keeps coming apart being a two piece muffler. The back third of the muffler that has a bolt that going from the front to the rear of the muffler keeps coming apart and I have nylon lock nuts of it. I have desided to order the new pitts muffler for the engine from Jim at agape hopping that this new pitts muffler will stay bolted to the engine

jstanton

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I now have the new pitts muffler but the bolts are recessed and not extend out so you cannot drilled a hole threw them to install a small rod to stop them from backing out. I still installed the pitts muffler and test run it on the ground in my Cap 232 and the bolts came loose and I used the Red Loctite on them. I then found some longer bolts and used a steel washer so they would extend out so I drilled a small hole into each one and installed a small rod so they could not back out. Now the muffler stays in place and does not come apart.

I am moving this NGH GT17 to a Great Planes Escapade 61. I think this will be a good airframe for this little engine. This is still a great running little engine!

jstanton

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Here is a pic of the Great Planes Escapade.

dirtybird

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Does it have needle bearings on the rod bottom end?

jstanton

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I have been tolf in other threads on the engine it does not have needle bearings. I an not really that savey on the mechanics of this engine all I know is that it is a great running little gas engine but I have trouble keeping a muffler from coming lose. I am going to try a DLE-20 muffler on it. Another RC'er says he is using tat muffler on his.

Thanks

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Most red Loctite will start to break down around 250 degrees. There are some formulas that will go a bit higher. Two things to keep in mind, no Loctite is going to work if the screws and threaded holes have been oil contaminated. The threads of both need to be cleaned with acetone prior to Loctite application. At this point the threads in the cylinder may be damaged to the point where nothing is going to work except to install a helicoil. Any time I have had an issue with a muffler coming loose I found that I was letting the engine get too hot.

jstanton

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I will clean out the thread for the muffler with acetone and then apply the high temp loctite. The engine is not in a cowl so I don't think it is getting to hot. I am still flying it on the rich side. Thanks for your help

spitflyer ch ch

The ngh 17 is great in the 61 escapade 14-8 ma fly at half throttle many flights no problems safety wired muffler have fun

jstanton

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I am going to saftey wire the muffler ass you said. If a wire is going threw the bolts then they cannot backout. Thanks

dirtybird

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Most engines use aluminum for he cylinder even if they use a steel sleve. Then They supply steel bolts When the engine gets hot the aluminum expands more than the bolt. The aluminum threads deform and the bolt is loose when the engine cools down. No locktite or silicon seal can stop this.
On my NGH 26 I installed a copper plate under the bolt heads, then put silicon seal on the bolts to keep them frm backing out. It seems to work for me.

jstanton

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I also have the NGH GT25 for my next project. Did you have trouble with the meffler coming lose on your NGH 25 before you did this?

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

!00% correct. The high temp silicon may even work better then Loctite. In reality a well executed cowled installation runs cooler then an engine out in the open. Fluid dynamics dictates that air will go the path of least resistance, this means around the cylinder unless there are baffles that direct airflow through the fins. Most don't go to that extreme so a little rich off peak, slightly lower prop load and a tad bit more oil in the mix is used. problem is that when new is when the engine will run it's hottest.

jstanton

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Just finished getting the NGH GT17 into my Great Planes Escapade. I test run the engine with a evolution 14x8 prop and it is spinning that prop at 9100RPM with a solid 1900RPM idle. I think I have my muffler issue solved using the high temp silicon on the bolts. I also used bolts that I have drilled and used a metal wire threw each so they cannot back out. I hope to do the maiden flight this Friday

jstanton

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Here are a few pics of what I have done to the stock muffler so that it will not come lose any more. I have used a product call quick steel that I hope works better than JB weld.

jstanton

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I flew the Escapade yesterday and this NGH GT17 is a good fit for this plane but I lost part of this 2 piece muffler again. I have the main body of the mufflr saftey wired to the engine but the bolt that keeps this two piece muffler together keeps coming apart in flight. How are you guy's keeping the muffler together while it is in flight. I flew the last two flight without half of the muffler. Sounded real nice but noisy.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Thoroughly clean all the parts with acetone, reassemble with red Loctite and reduce the operating temp of the engine.

jstanton

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Thanks for the input but I have one question? I am running Sthil HD synthic oil at 25x1 ratio. Should I increase the ratio to 20x1 to lower the temp on the engine? I can richen it up some maybe that will lower the temp some.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Are you getting oil residue on the airplane? If so your oil ratio should be good. Have you checked the timing? Having the timing advanced or retarded will increase operating temps. Typical timiming is set to 28 degrees BTDC. If you are running the upper limit of the prop size, the additional,load will create more heat. Last thing and nothing you can really do here I'd that the carb is blocking a good deal of the cylinder and the fins are not very deep. Not a great design IMO. One thing just came to mind. If everything else checks out you could run higher octane gas to help cool things down a bit. Not feasible on this airplane but on a coweled installation using baffles to direct the airflow through the cylinder fins helps a great deal. On open installations such as yours the air just flows around the cylinder and it gets less efficient cooling.

jstanton

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I just recieved another muffler from agape RC. There is no sleves inside the muffler to prevent over tighting of the bolts. This time I am going to cut some brass sleves and put inside the muffler so I cannot over tighten the bolts and cause the body of the muffler to bend. I know I have bent the body of the muffler in the past. I hope this will help with keeping the muffler together. I will also put som JB weld on the lock nuts that hold the two piece muffler together.

I have checked everyting you have suggested and I really do appricateyour help. The engine is running really good now and I am getting 9000RPM with a evolution 14x8 prop. Running this engine with just the main body of the muffler bolted to the engine has let it running but boy is it load!