spitflyer ch ch

Been flying my escapade with the ngh 17 long time no problems great engine.

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

Did you guys break your engine on the ground or in the air and what fuel mixture did you use for the break in and after the break in?

waynex

I have had issues with my stock NGH GT17 muffler leaking out around the barrel join and at the ends where the nylock nuts hold the barrel together. My solution has been drastic but works - aluminium brazing. I'm only using the engine in 1 plane, my SIG 4*60, so I brazed the barrel in with its outlet pointing in the best direction for the 4*60. Used aluminium brazing rods and a propane torch from a local hardware store. Almost melted the barrel away in one place but am overall satisfied with the result (see pics). I like your DLE20 muffler solution, don't think its shape will fit on my 4*60. Also the NZ hobby store online websites don't seem to mention the 32mm mounting bolt spacing, in fact one site has the DLE20 bolts spaced at 27.7mm (hobbyhangar.co,nz).

the pope

Just checked my 20dle for u . 32mm bolt spacing . Got to look after a fellow anzac even if they do beat us in rugby ! Cheers the pope

waynex

Awesome to hear from the pope! Thanks for the 32mm confirmation.

waynex

Another post as I wasn't fully satisfied with my brazed muffler repair so bought a DLE20-RA muffler after the pope confirmed the size. Fits perfectly on the NGH GT17 gas motor. The rear-carb DLE muffer shape fits my 4*60 better than the front-carb muffler. Take a look at the pics, yet to be test run.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Just did the maiden flight on my Phoenix Ryan STA with this NGH GT 17. The plane flew great great and had plenty of power with the Xero 15x8 prop. I did have one problem I was flying with a 32 to 1 oil to gas mix and on the 3rd flight the engine ceased up. Got parts on order and will is 25 to 1 from now on.

waynex

Yep, 25:1 would keep it much happier, that's what I use in mine on the 4*60, running well. It puts out some black residue but that's a good thing, oil is doing its job. I clean it off the Solartex covering with kero & a rag. By the way, the DLE20-RA muffler works a treat, no leaks.

PS: I like your Patriotic 4*60, nice bird

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Here are a few pics of the GT17B in my Phoenix Ryan STA. I think you can see how well the Valley View DLE-20 muffler works on this model. I did mess up the cowl but I have a new one on order.

waynex

Thanks for the pics Jim. Looks like the motor fits nicely in the cowl. Your NGH must have a slightly different carb model than mine, with the blue anodized intake. Recent issues I've had with mine are the spark plug clip vibrating off the plug and regular idle adjustments needed most days, but these are minor.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

The spark plug issue of coming lose is why I went to the OS#5 gas glow plug. It runs really well with the plug. I am getting 8000 rpm with a XOAR 15x8 prop.

p3arljam

My Feedback: (5)

I finally took out my NGH 17 and mounted on my break in test stand. I have a DLE 20 muffler and if I mount the muffler pointing down the muffler exhaust tube hits the side of the motor mount and if I mount it pointing up the top of the muffler hits the engine mounting screws. I have a DLE 20 and I noticed the distance from the engine mount holes to the muffler mount area is farther than the NGH 17. The mount I am using is about as small as you can get do you guys have any suggestions?

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

R U using a stock DLE-20 Muffler? Valley View sales muffler for a DLE-20 that works great but it neither mounts up or down. It mounts straight out and work great. Take a look at my Ryan STA pics and you can see it. Hope this helps.

embinc

My Feedback: (1)

Where did you find the timing specs for this NGH GT17 engine?

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

You can call Agape racing an ask them but 30 deg BTDC is the typical timing on the majority of 2 stroke gas engines. I couldn't find written timing specs on the NGH17b but mine is set to 30BTDC like all of my other engines.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

If this is the muffler I'm thinking of, they were made for a twin (DLE 40), to allow for the exhaust to exit straight down. They're also popular with guys running side mounted 20's, as in profile type 3D planes. Available anywhere DLE parts are sold.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

I use the 20cc profile muffler that I bought from Valley View RC .
https://www.valleyviewrc.com/vvrc-20...rofile-muffler

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

And here's the one for a DLE 40 twin - which uses 2 20cc DLE 20 cylinders
https://www.valleyviewrc.com/dle-40-left-1-hole-muffler

No, it's not polished, but it's a lot easier to find one.....

embinc

My Feedback: (1)

I assume need to adjust my timing, its at 50 deg BTDC out of the box. I have to start this engine with electric starter, no way it will flip start with a chicken stick. Looks like the only way to adjust it to 30 deg will be to move the sensor past the drilled mounting holes. Any ideas on how to do this without drilling and tapping new holes? I can do that but wonder if someone has better ideas than me. I see from searching online that an adjustable ring with the magnet embedded looks to be the easy way to do this with set screws. Again I am sure open for ideas. The engine does run at this timing setting. Seams to idle fine with the small amount about 40 oz of Amsoil fuel 25:1 that has been run so far. Thinking of switching to Stihl oil to see how the oil residue looks, Amsoil Saber is kinda thick and nasty at 25:1. I don't think Amsoil meant for this stuff to be mixed at 25:1 The Amsoil chart goes to 50:1 and they boast 100:1 for weed wacker. Anyway just my thoughts on the oil. Hope you guys have some information on the timing. I was thinking it my help to start this little engine a bit easier.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

embinc , I'm not implying anything here but are you checking the timing correctly while rotating the crankshaft counter clockwise ? If you are checking it by rotating clockwise it will be about 50 deg . Also if you are using an audible device the timing location is determined when the tone turns off after rotating passed the sensor.

embinc

My Feedback: (1)

Yes turning CC but assumed the spark triggered when the tone started not stopped. It should be real close when the tone turns off. The lack of information on these little engines is astounding. I really am grateful for the help that all of you are providing. I have been told that Amsoil is not the best for these engines because of the heavy 25:1 oil mix for break-in. Hope you guys can help shed some light on this. So far Amsoil has been slow and not much help yet.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

I prefer the Stihl over the Amzoil . I used Amzoil exclusively in my planes for many years ( a buddy talked me into it as he was an Amzoil dealer then) and was very pleased at first but after several years of use it was taking its toll on my engines . Piston rings were begining to stick and carbon was building up . I have always used Stihl oil in my saws at 50:1 so I started using it in my planes as well and very quickly found they ran cooler and smoother.

embinc

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, CK1 you think that the Stihl for this little NGH17 for break-in @ 20:1 as per manual specs will be ok? Then 50:1 after? or should I stay with 25:1 as per recommended by manual? If this little motor performs as I hope, I would like it to last for several years of intense fun.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

I would go by the manual for 20:1 especially during break in .The ngh17 is the only engine I have that I run at 25:1 after break in . This engine doesn't use bearings on both ends of the rod so I would keep it at 25:1 after break in .

embinc

My Feedback: (1)

A big thank you CK1.