bcchi

Sorry,
Is the spark plug cover going down all the way down on the plug,snap ring all the way past the hex on spark plug.Have you changed the hall sensor. I thought for years that the pulse switch(hall sensor)either worked or didn't. I had one give me a real fit a few times.Had a engine that would act up at times.One day when running bad I pushed down on hall sensor and engine strightned (sp).out.Just a few 0.00difference made the engine run like crap.Usually this is one of the first things I change when having your kind of problem.There is a bit of slack up and down in the sensor bracket. Sometimes I will shim them down with a cut off wire tie.See what Tom says at VV.Don't junk the engine,I will buy it if not banged up too bad.I can make it run,I no I should not have said that.
BCCHI AMA 2500. Grumpy no two.

eleft36

+1 on the plug cover snap down, it's also a tough thing to get off.
Al
PS I have the 21cc

j301

My Feedback: (12)

I sometimes have to remember which thread I'm on; the other thread I was talking about this motor and it's issues was the thread about the air frame it was in. I went into more detail on the other one, so its easy to forget "who knows what," as well as how much detail. I do appreciate all the suggestions here, as well as on the other thread. I don't think the motor was harmed in the crash, and I plan on sticking with it. As far as the cap and hall sensor, I did time it using the Rcexl tool, and checked it with a different ignition and plug, and got accustomed to cutting the palm of my hand on that *$&%^ sharp, exacto-blade-cap-ridge Rcexl designed making sure it was all the way on. The issues were sporadic, and sometimes seemingly unrelated, like checking the oil to see if you have a flat tire. It would go from only running choked, to only running not choked but off idle, then idle but not accelerate, or only run through its prime; hand starting to needing a starter, sometimes only on the air frame, some times only on the bench. I thought I had the bugs all chased out as I had one great flight, but obviously I only moved something around enough to make it work once. I need to pull the entire carb/intake assy. and strip it I guess. Perhaps there is something fishy with the reeds, or one of the gaskets or diaphragms is whack-a-do. I would though rather send it back if Tom would take it so they could put their eyes on it. The brand new $$$ Top Flite is really still a sore spot for me (and its the 4th bird I've lost this summer! having "one of those runs") so I apologize if I seem a bit short at times.

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

You can obtain packets of electrical lube to put on the plug before putting on the boot over the plug. Most auto parts stores have this and it is cheap. It really eases removal when you need to remove the plug, etc.. A LITTLE DAB WILL DO YOU!

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Finally, got a chance to try out the new ignition. Worked as expected, no glitches what-so-ever. THANK YOU TOM AT VALLEY VIEW. The engine ran flawlessly thru my little part of our annual "Kids Day" today.
I will certainly have customer loyalty when treated like this!

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Thats good news Gizmo.
Put mine back on the bench today.
You know, back when I was an aircraft tech in the AF (8 yrs, EL/EN 2A656), once in a while a plane would come in with a write-up saying there was an issue with a system and I, or we, would arm/activate/actuate (whatever) that system and run it through, sometimes several times under several conditions, and not get the system to fail or repeat whatever it was the driver said it was doing. They (the pilots) really hated to see "CND," or "could not duplicate" as a sign off in the aircraft forms. If it was non essential, they would just have to take it. If it was an essential system, or a multiple repeat, then we would have to start playing swap-tronics to chase the gremlin away.
So why the warm fuzzy story (you are asking yourself right now)?
Of course, the engine ran fine on the stand again. Didn't take much to get it to idle at 1,500 and max out and stay at 8,500 with an APC 15/8. It did die suddenly once while I was adjusting the high speed needle, but that was also a "CND,"
So the issue is now do I send it back to VV knowing they will look at it, just like me with those pilots, and not be able to do anything because its fine on a bench; do I keep it and "hope it doesn't happen only in flight?" (again just like those pilots I "tormented" with CND sign off?)
I'm thinking I might try a generic knock off bird, like one of those old style, ex-Hangar 9 "Marie" mustangs, at least then its not a Top Doll...I mean, Top Flite getting dug out of a smoking hole, right?

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I'd fly it, but some guys maintain a Stick or trainer test beds to build some confidence in their engines?

lean-run

Yes I have a Stik that has everything from Saito .65 to now RCGF20cc.(84" about 8lb) Will give my VV20 a run in it soon. I don't worry about running engines in with it , just when I can't wait to run a motor before it goes into its own set-up.

j301 I think you're on the right track trying to isolate the problem. Give it a chance, if it runs good sometimes, it must be something in power/fuel supply rather than a faulty motor. They are a neat, well made looking engine.

Hope it all works out........

(Off for a flight before work)

j301

My Feedback: (12)

I had a Giant Stick that I used as a test bed for a couple of motors; cycling through some menus between flights after an engine change to adjust sub trim idle I didn't realize I bumped the elev. rev. option (one of the steps you have to get past to get to the idle trim,-really questionable program feature I now think). Needless to say the next flight was confusing as hell (the "center" became "1/2 up") as well as quite short until I gathered the pieces and realized what happened. (And I have since learned how to lock that feature, and changed my every pre-flight procedure!) That was one of the 4 losses, and my favorite "don't have to worry about and just go fly" planes.

So now I'm thinking that I might get a 60 size stick to throw this motor on, a bit over kill, but I have a four stroke that needs a home anyway. If its good, I think I might have to go with something round cowl, p 47, f4u, etc. as it could be it doesn't like the tight space of a mustang. ( I also have a Yak 54 that has a G20 on it I could swap out, but its harder to find a 60 size home for the Zenoah.) If it still doesn't run, then I will punt and send it back.

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Flew about 20-25 mins yesterday. The engine ran flawlessly with the new ignition, took care of the problem with the ignition without a doubt.

j301

My Feedback: (12)

Tom had emailed me and wanted to see the motor. I told him what exactly happened and he agreed it was an odd thing. I also told him about the plan to put it on a stick but he still wanted to look at it, so off it went. Got an email today saying he got it, but that the tech was on vacation until the 2nd. Should have sent it in sooner I know, but oh-well, at least I know its there and hopefully they can pinpoint what is going on. After telling Tom about the issues, I am leaning toward agreeing with the idea of a bad hall sensor or lead. If by re-routing the pickup wire I either opened a short or closed an open, vibration on the second flight might have caused the "temp fix" to go bad, or something similar. Just guessing, hope to hear some good news soon.

qspilotcmh

Will the DLE-20 gasket set fit the VVRC20 engine? My carb is spraying or leaking a little fuel and I would like to try a new gasket set. I emailed VVRC yesterday morning regarding it but have yet to hear back from them.

Thanks

karolh

Did you ever get the issue with your engine finally sorted out, and if so what was the root cause ??

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Just the other day I found an intermittent connection on a hall sensor by using one of those timing/test devices they sell. I put the hall sensor right over the magnet with the tester hooked up. The light came on and the buzzer sounded. But when I wiggled the wires, I could get the light and buzzer to go off, which of course it shouldn't do. I then cut into the insulation, etc., and found a bad solder joint on the hall sensor. It's a good trouble shooting procedure, though the sensor can be bad without having a poor connection too. BCCHI once told me that "Hall sensors usually either work, or they don't, but about 5% of the time they just go "whacky."

http://www.milehighrc.com/Ignition_Items.html

AV8TOR