oil
#4
I only use the good stuff at present,. Stihl HP Ultra synthetic oil for air cooled engines. Redline has one that works too. I think there is another, but I forget its brand name at the moment. I tried some cheaper oils and they didn't work out for me on the engines I was using it in (engines that didn't have needle bearings on the connecting rod).
But depending on your engine's brand and model, your oil should be OK. What oil did the engine manufacturer suggest for your engine?
But depending on your engine's brand and model, your oil should be OK. What oil did the engine manufacturer suggest for your engine?
#7
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I only use the good stuff at present,. Stihl HP Ultra synthetic oil for air cooled engines. Redline has one that works too. I think there is another, but I forget its brand name at the moment. I tried some cheaper oils and they didn't work out for me on the engines I was using it in (engines that didn't have needle bearings on the connecting rod).
But depending on your engine's brand and model, your oil should be OK. What oil did the engine manufacturer suggest for your engine?
But depending on your engine's brand and model, your oil should be OK. What oil did the engine manufacturer suggest for your engine?
The oil I have says it meets ISO EGD and JASO FC
The brand is MasterPro
#10
If you have a NGH 9cc, 17cc, or 25cc gas engine, you do not want to use the MasterPro brand oil in the engine.
ref http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2385&ppt=C1941
Sorry, it just isn't safe to use, you have a high risk of the connecting rod failing as they do not use needle bearings on the small NGH engines and the rod needs all the oil and the best oil you can get.
The other issue is carbon deposits, the mineral oils tend to leave a lot more carbon deposits on the engine and with the little engines that carbon can quickly affect performance and foul the spark plugs out too.
I have attached a pic from when I used some cheap oil in one of my NGH 9cc gas engines.
So I have a little bit of experience with it.
ref http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2385&ppt=C1941
Sorry, it just isn't safe to use, you have a high risk of the connecting rod failing as they do not use needle bearings on the small NGH engines and the rod needs all the oil and the best oil you can get.
The other issue is carbon deposits, the mineral oils tend to leave a lot more carbon deposits on the engine and with the little engines that carbon can quickly affect performance and foul the spark plugs out too.
I have attached a pic from when I used some cheap oil in one of my NGH 9cc gas engines.
So I have a little bit of experience with it.
Last edited by earlwb; 04-24-2014 at 04:30 PM. Reason: add more info
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Dirty bird:
Would like to know what engine you have that you are going to use the oil in. Also to be honest 25:1 is probably a good ratio if the manual says to use that ratio, that is what I would go with. However if you find that after using it that you have excessive carbon build up, you may want to start using a different ratio like 32:1. Also with that much oil at 25:1 you may not get all available power out of the engine and as such can lead to excessive carbon.
Wish you well either way. I personally use Stihl Ultra on all of my engines mixed to 32:1. I even use this on my weed eater and blower lawn equipment. No issues at all with that oil.
Glenn
Would like to know what engine you have that you are going to use the oil in. Also to be honest 25:1 is probably a good ratio if the manual says to use that ratio, that is what I would go with. However if you find that after using it that you have excessive carbon build up, you may want to start using a different ratio like 32:1. Also with that much oil at 25:1 you may not get all available power out of the engine and as such can lead to excessive carbon.
Wish you well either way. I personally use Stihl Ultra on all of my engines mixed to 32:1. I even use this on my weed eater and blower lawn equipment. No issues at all with that oil.
Glenn
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dirty bird:
Would like to know what engine you have that you are going to use the oil in. Also to be honest 25:1 is probably a good ratio if the manual says to use that ratio, that is what i would go with. However if you find that after using it that you have excessive carbon build up, you may want to start using a different ratio like 32:1. Also with that much oil at 25:1 you may not get all available power out of the engine and as such can lead to excessive carbon.
Wish you well either way. I personally use stihl ultra on all of my engines mixed to 32:1. I even use this on my weed eater and blower lawn equipment. No issues at all with that oil.
Glenn
Would like to know what engine you have that you are going to use the oil in. Also to be honest 25:1 is probably a good ratio if the manual says to use that ratio, that is what i would go with. However if you find that after using it that you have excessive carbon build up, you may want to start using a different ratio like 32:1. Also with that much oil at 25:1 you may not get all available power out of the engine and as such can lead to excessive carbon.
Wish you well either way. I personally use stihl ultra on all of my engines mixed to 32:1. I even use this on my weed eater and blower lawn equipment. No issues at all with that oil.
Glenn
#14
Does the NGH 25cc engine have needle bearings on the connecting rod or not? I think that the earlier engines did not have needle bearings on the rod whereas the later engines did. I say this as I am not sure what version Hobby King is selling so a person could wind up with one or the other version of the engine. I think they refer to the engine with the needle bearings on the rod as a "B" model.
Last edited by earlwb; 04-26-2014 at 07:51 AM. Reason: add more info
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Does the NGH 25cc engine have needle bearings on the connecting rod or not? I think that the earlier engines did not have needle bearings on the rod whereas the later engines did. I say this as I am not sure what version Hobby King is selling so a person could wind up with one or the other version of the engine. I think they refer to the engine with the needle bearings on the rod as a "B" model.
I got it from Agape, not Hobby King
#16
You're probably better off popping a backplate off. Probably take less time and then there's no question one way or another. It's pretty obvious if it does have a needle bearing or not.
#18
#19
well it is easy to remove the backplate and take a look. There are only four screws holding it on. Nothing special and nothing in the way either.
Just don't overdo it when tightening the screws back up. If you are uncertain as to what you are looking at, take some pictures and post them here in the forum so we can all take a look and advise you.
Just don't overdo it when tightening the screws back up. If you are uncertain as to what you are looking at, take some pictures and post them here in the forum so we can all take a look and advise you.
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I guessing that they reformulated it to make one oil work for both for economic reasons. If the air cooled oil specs are tougher due to cooling and lubricating requirements, they could call the oil multipurpose and recommend it for both. The water cooled lube requirements are probably surpassed by the air cooled specs. So, they can save money by using one formulation and packaging. Also makes more shelf space in the store. I use it in all my planes. At 40:1 it doesn't make much difference to me. I don't put enough time on any one engine to worry about carbon. I also have a backup bottle of Walmart oil if needed.