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DLE30 Starts and Dies by no reason

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Old 05-18-2014, 06:14 PM
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mvarzoni
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Default DLE30 Starts and Dies by no reason

Dear friends,

I have a DLE30 engine, I made 3 flights with it, than I keept the engine for over a year and now it is sitting on an ultra stick 120.
After that, it ran for about 20 minutes, and after that, it easylly starts for about 15 seconds and all of a sudden, it shuts off, restar and same thing for about 10 times.
After that I get angry and give up.

Could anyone please help me?

Thank you
Mauricio
Old 05-18-2014, 06:40 PM
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Hossfly
 
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You say it was flown and then put away for some time. Now it starts for a few seconds and quits. Have you removed the throttle side cover and cleaned the screen?
I had same problems when I started flying my first gas burners. Then an old timer gave me this same advice. Now I do let some models sit a loonnngg time. Generally they act just like you say your's does, so I remove that cover and BE CAREFUL as that screen is very small and will fly away on its own! Place it in a cup and use some cleaner. I mostly use rubbing-alcohol to remove the "gel" that is usually there. Replace the clean screen and usually its good to go, at least for me. Good luck!
Old 05-18-2014, 07:09 PM
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All Day Dan
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Mauricio,
The cover that Horrace is talking about is the one with the large single screw securing it. It’s a good place to look first. Dan.
Old 05-18-2014, 07:17 PM
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mvarzoni
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Dan,
I did it that you just adviced to do, but I had no luck, I also checked the fuel tank sltutyde and fuel flow.
One idea is to remove the screen at all.
What do you guys say?
Old 05-18-2014, 08:12 PM
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All Day Dan
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I do believe that Brazil uses 25% ethanol in the gas. All the diaphragms in the carburetor may have deteriorated by now. Get a rebuild kit for the carb and give that a try. Leave the screen in. If it is clean it has no effect on the engine. Dan.
Old 05-19-2014, 02:31 AM
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mvarzoni
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Dan,
There is a techinic to remove ethanol from gasoline. But I do agree that I should replace the diaphragm.
Could you please tell me what is the code for the rebuilding kit?
Or even the best suitable carburetor for replacing this current one?
Thank you.
Maurício
Old 05-19-2014, 04:20 AM
  #7  
ahicks
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Have you checked the charge on the battery suppyling power to your ignition? It would need to be pretty low to do what you describe, but it can happen.
Old 05-19-2014, 05:04 AM
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mvarzoni
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Ahicks, I checked that.
I'm not using any opto switch or anything like that.
I do believe It is a carburetor matter, but I haven't discarded a ignition cause yet.

Maurício.
Old 05-19-2014, 05:39 AM
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ahicks
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You checked the battery voltage under load, or static? One with a dead cell may read in the normal range with no load?

What about a tank venting issue? That's been checked to make sure there are no restrictions?
Old 05-19-2014, 06:14 AM
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JRgraham
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I would suggest looking over your fuel system very carefully, in that the smallest puncture or break in a line or loose fitting, or clunk off the line in the tank would give just enough fuel to run after primed, but loose suction after a few moments running, since its not drawing fuel properly.
Old 05-19-2014, 09:39 AM
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open needles

and i'd guess your clunk lines broken .. or your vent's clogging up ... and your geting vabor lock or your sucking air in that clunk pick up something along those lines

thats if its not getting hot....


open needels regardless
Old 05-19-2014, 02:05 PM
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mvarzoni
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I´m at work now. I´ll leave in 56 minutes and head home for testing everything you guys are telling me to do.
Old 05-19-2014, 02:09 PM
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Mauricio, here is how to remove the ethanol from the gas. You may have to change it for the percent used where you live.

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewto...p?f=15&t=14679

Contact the organization that sells the DLE engines in Brazil. They probably have rebuild kits available or will tell you which one of the Walbro carburetors is equivalent. Or start another thread on RCU asking which of the Walbro carburetors is equivalent to the one on the DLE30.

I run ethanol free gas through my engines at the end of the day and flood the carburetor with it. You can get it in quart size containers at all of the places that sell lawn mowers and chain saws. It is too expensive to fly with but all right for a few seconds of running. If you know which of the Walbro carbs is the same, you can get rebuild kits there also.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...nd-tear-of-e10

Dan

Last edited by All Day Dan; 05-19-2014 at 02:12 PM.
Old 05-19-2014, 02:40 PM
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mvarzoni
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Dan,

My recipe is 50ml of pure water for each liter of regular gas.
I usualy get 300ml of water/ethanol.

After separeted, I never use the gas portion close to the division line.

I keep that bad ethanol for lightning my barbecue place.
Old 05-19-2014, 03:18 PM
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All Day Dan
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If you are putting in 50ml of water and getting out 300ml of water and ethanol, you are removing 250ml of ethanol which is 25% of the liter. That is what it should be. Good. I would still rebuild the carburetor. Have you looked at the reeds or changed the spark plug? Dan.
Old 05-19-2014, 03:38 PM
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You guys rock!! Lov you all. All very good answers. Keep up the great work. The carb needs an overhaul done. I see it all the time. Also I removed all my screens. I use the in tank chain saw type filters. I use one in my can. Two in my tank. One on fill side and one on carburetor pick up!!! My cousin owns a mower shop. And ethanol is very bad stuff!!! You all know. It runs good. But don't like to sit like dads and grandad chain saw. They always started right up!!
Old 05-28-2014, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by All Day Dan
Mauricio,
The cover that Horrace is talking about is the one with the large single screw securing it. It’s a good place to look first. Dan.
Thanks much A.D.D. I never can remember all the right parts! Just last week I did same procedure to my G-26 powered Eindecker. Fired 'er up and she ran like a dream. Went to Fly-In on Sat. and flew it several times, no problems. First Flight since last November. That screen was about 1/16" thick with gummy stuff, but cleaned up well very easily in some rub. alcohol.

I used to remove screens, but now I also - as does warbird72 - use the chain-saw filters in my gas can. I don't do much gas burner stuff, and removing the screen scares me, so cleaning once a season works for me.

Last edited by Hossfly; 05-28-2014 at 09:18 AM. Reason: add "remove screens..."
Old 05-28-2014, 09:38 AM
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Nice, cleaning a screen is definitely one of the better problems to come across! I wouldnt suggest removing the screen either. Its too easy to clean it out once in awhile rather than having to rebuild or replace a carb in the off chance some debris flows through and clogs a jet that the screen would have prevented!

I run filters from the fill container to the plane, but no filter between the tank and the carb. I know putting a filter between the tank and carb is more ideal, but I try to keep my system(s) is simple as I can. Its rare that I ever see any crud in my carb screens though.. maybe once every 3-4 times I check, and I check them every couple months.
Old 05-28-2014, 11:51 AM
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All above answers are going to get you running again! I use the chain saw type filters in my fuel tanks. They have a weighted clunk built right in them. I use the 3 line system. One for fill and drain. And one for the carb pick up! As well as one im my gas can. I will install the filters and run my engine's. After they pull fuel threw them for about a tank full. I then remove my carburetor screen. I do that so any fibers that may be lose in the filters will get filtered before going threw the needle and seat. Rotary makes the filters im taking about! Never had any dirt in any carburetor to date.. they work well. Ethanol is mean stuff. Guys. Give it a try. Your going to be happy you did. Good luck. And happy flying.
Old 05-28-2014, 12:03 PM
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JRgraham
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What is the benefit in removing the carb's screen though? I only see potential negative's doing that..
Old 05-28-2014, 10:13 PM
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I like to think it has a little more fuel flow. You don't have to remove them. That's just how I do it. But mainly if the carb needs rebuilt. That's when I removed the screen. I watched my buddies plane go in Monday right after take off. Gone. Reason clogged screen.
Old 05-28-2014, 10:34 PM
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warbird72
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I like to think it has a little more fuel flow. You don't have to remove them. That's just how I do it. But mainly if the carb needs rebuilt. That's when I removed the screen. I watched my buddies plane go in Monday right after take off. Gone. Reason clogged screen.
Old 05-29-2014, 06:14 PM
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The screen is the absolute last defense the carb has against crud in the fuel. If you remove it, any crud will still be there and just pass through and plug the very fine metering passages in the carb. Is that what you want to happen? Really? If anyone has a screen that gets plugged with crud, it is because of other problems in the fuel system, not the fault of the screen. The screen is just doing its job. Please, don't remove the screens unless you want to start replacing carbs.
Old 05-30-2014, 03:11 AM
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I have to agree. If there is a concern regarding fuel flow, and this filter is clean, the problem lies elsewhere. For starters, keep in mind how many of these filters are in place, on planes running just fine?

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