Dle 120 please help!!!!!
#51
it would be safer to fix the issue first provided you know what the issue is.
I would think you would like to make sure the restraint is good for what it will produce before you start messing around. There are always possible problems that could make it go to full throttle by accident.
I really dont think his problem is the reed bank. Needlessly messing with that can do more harm than good.
I would think you would like to make sure the restraint is good for what it will produce before you start messing around. There are always possible problems that could make it go to full throttle by accident.
I really dont think his problem is the reed bank. Needlessly messing with that can do more harm than good.
Sorry I'm not adding anything new here, just stating the obvious and how I would approach a problem. Do the easy stuff first and work to the harder stuff when necessary.
Good luck.
#56
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Know that feeling well, but only once, went and got me a starter after it. But the prop is not the only thing that can bite, aluminum around the cockpit can hurt real well also. Sliced three down to the bone.
#57
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Here is my insane way for checking for spark.
I remove the plug, stick a screwdriver in th the speark plug lead connector, grab the screwdriver and press my hand to the cylinder head and flip the prop. If my fingers curl up I know I have a spark.
If you try this make sure no other part of your body touches the engine or the ignition circuit.
I remove the plug, stick a screwdriver in th the speark plug lead connector, grab the screwdriver and press my hand to the cylinder head and flip the prop. If my fingers curl up I know I have a spark.
If you try this make sure no other part of your body touches the engine or the ignition circuit.
#58
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Sorry to see this led to an injury. If there is a bright side, it does give some clues. Usually an engine that kicks back is either too wet or has the timing advanced too much. Sometimes both. So you know you were getting fuel now. When you are up to it, check the timing. This would include making sure the hub has not shifted on the crank. Speedy recovery.
#59
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To the OP:
I know you said you changed plugs. Question is did you get rid of the as equipped Chineese plugs and go with plugs made in Japan? Next question is are you sure both plug caps are seated firmly on the plugs? Then the. Ext question is what input vtage is your ignition battery? Could be a switch that is bad as well. Also check the insulater from the carb to the engine and make sure it is not cracked or loose. It needs to be tight but not guerlla tight. Sorry about your injury. I got bit a couple of years ago and I feel your pain. I now wear a leather glove when starting a gas engine. Wish you well
glenn
I know you said you changed plugs. Question is did you get rid of the as equipped Chineese plugs and go with plugs made in Japan? Next question is are you sure both plug caps are seated firmly on the plugs? Then the. Ext question is what input vtage is your ignition battery? Could be a switch that is bad as well. Also check the insulater from the carb to the engine and make sure it is not cracked or loose. It needs to be tight but not guerlla tight. Sorry about your injury. I got bit a couple of years ago and I feel your pain. I now wear a leather glove when starting a gas engine. Wish you well
glenn
#60
Check the carb manifold.
I have a DA 150 that dates back to 98 that was flown in the 98 TOC (has over 2800 flights on it). Last week after a four minute flight and a dead stick it would not want to re start and when it did it ran very badly, card would prime, carb would drip but plugs were dry. I inspected the carb. gasket between the carb, the reed block housing, all the normal stuff. It was leaking air on the back side of the gasket. I made a new one and BAM...., Problem fixed! By chance, if you can get the motor running, try carb clearner and hit the gaskets, if you hear a rpm change you have an air leak. Also, doulde check the hall sensor pick and make sure it is not loose or has moved ( that was my other issue) and double check the little spings in the bottom of the silicon of the spark plug ingnition cap ( I fixed one for a club member several months ago and that was his problem, had spark but very weak and intermitten spark and that will change the timing).
Regards,
Bill H.
Regards,
Bill H.
Today I was maidening a 100cc edge with a new DLE 120 on it. It ran up good on the ground, 6100 RPM with a flacon 29x9 prop. First flight, it flew great for 5 minutes, then it died. After landing, it would not restart. We changed plugs, looked at the reeds, made sure it had a spark, etc. The weird part is, you can choke it till there is gas pouring out of the carb and continue flipping and the plugs will be dry as a bone. At no point was I able to get any fuel into the engine from the carb. The reeds opened and sealed up as they should with no cracks in them. Has anyone ran into anything like this before, because even our local engine guru is stumped on this one?
#61
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To the OP:
I know you said you changed plugs. Question is did you get rid of the as equipped Chineese plugs and go with plugs made in Japan? Next question is are you sure both plug caps are seated firmly on the plugs? Then the. Ext question is what input vtage is your ignition battery? Could be a switch that is bad as well. Also check the insulater from the carb to the engine and make sure it is not cracked or loose. It needs to be tight but not guerlla tight. Sorry about your injury. I got bit a couple of years ago and I feel your pain. I now wear a leather glove when starting a gas engine. Wish you well
glenn
I know you said you changed plugs. Question is did you get rid of the as equipped Chineese plugs and go with plugs made in Japan? Next question is are you sure both plug caps are seated firmly on the plugs? Then the. Ext question is what input vtage is your ignition battery? Could be a switch that is bad as well. Also check the insulater from the carb to the engine and make sure it is not cracked or loose. It needs to be tight but not guerlla tight. Sorry about your injury. I got bit a couple of years ago and I feel your pain. I now wear a leather glove when starting a gas engine. Wish you well
glenn
#62
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I have a DA 150 that dates back to 98 that was flown in the 98 TOC (has over 2800 flights on it). Last week after a four minute flight and a dead stick it would not want to re start and when it did it ran very badly, card would prime, carb would drip but plugs were dry. I inspected the carb. gasket between the carb, the reed block housing, all the normal stuff. It was leaking air on the back side of the gasket. I made a new one and BAM...., Problem fixed! By chance, if you can get the motor running, try carb clearner and hit the gaskets, if you hear a rpm change you have an air leak. Also, doulde check the hall sensor pick and make sure it is not loose or has moved ( that was my other issue) and double check the little spings in the bottom of the silicon of the spark plug ingnition cap ( I fixed one for a club member several months ago and that was his problem, had spark but very weak and intermitten spark and that will change the timing).
Regards,
Bill H.
Regards,
Bill H.
#63
When starting, I never touch the props w/o a very heavy leather glove. Also, a lot of folks are too quick to stick their hand back in on it after a flip w/o it starting. Got to have respect for these babies and never assume everything will go as planned. Good luck with that injury. Hope you went back and got 'er stitched up.
#64
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It sounds like you have checked everything and found nothing. The only other thing to check is the loose nut spinning the prop.
Send it back to the MFG or take to a friend that is good with engines.
Send it back to the MFG or take to a friend that is good with engines.
#65
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Yes 33 degrees is a bit much. Try setting to 28. That far advanced may have been the cause of the first flame out being that engines will run hotter with that much advance. Getting hot can also warp things and make them leak. I would also still advise you to make sure the hub key is intact and the hub did not slip on the crank.
#66
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Yes 33 degrees is a bit much. Try setting to 28. That far advanced may have been the cause of the first flame out being that engines will run hotter with that much advance. Getting hot can also warp things and make them leak. I would also still advise you to make sure the hub key is intact and the hub did not slip on the crank.
#67
Senior Member
stayph(sp).thirty eight days in advanced care hospital.Not trying to scare you but there are some nasty bugs around.
BCCHI.