New to gas, considering DLE20
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New to gas, considering DLE20
Hello all. I've read a lot of threads here on gas engines, and I want to make sure I'm on the right track. Just bought a Phoenix Models Extra 330s .60-.90. I have a Saito 100 I was going to put on it, but I have the itch to go to a gas engine, and the DLE20 looks like a good match.
The problem is I've always been a glow engine guy, so I know what there is to know. I have compiled a small list of stuff I'll need to get based on the threads here, and I was hoping to get some feedback.
Some brown DuBro fuel tubing
A few clunks and fuel filters
The NGC spark plug for the DLE20
2 stroke oil
New 16x8 prop (Might want a 3-blade, haven't decided)
I already have batteries for the ignition
Am I missing anything? Thanks for all the great info so far!
The problem is I've always been a glow engine guy, so I know what there is to know. I have compiled a small list of stuff I'll need to get based on the threads here, and I was hoping to get some feedback.
Some brown DuBro fuel tubing
A few clunks and fuel filters
The NGC spark plug for the DLE20
2 stroke oil
New 16x8 prop (Might want a 3-blade, haven't decided)
I already have batteries for the ignition
Am I missing anything? Thanks for all the great info so far!
#3
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Can I use the standard plastic fuel tanks I already have? So far in my cart I have a couple of Dubro gas conversion stoppers, a few feet of Neoprene 3/32 tubing, a few 3/32 clunks and some 3/32 clamps. I don't think Tower sells the NGK spark plugs.
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Also, what about a vibration reducing motor mount? A lot of people are talking about beefing up the engine box because of vibration. Would a DuBro vibe-reducing mount be better? The engine box on the Extra I'm building is already reinforced.
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I have a DLE 30 and a NGH26. I prefer the NGH. It has the carb up front like a glow engine. Without the stand offs you can mount it on a standard mount and does not have those finicky reed valves. You can get one from agape hobbies. Thats agaperacing.com, The US distributor.
As for a soft mount you have to make up your mind if you want to shake your airplane or your engine.
I use the best available soft mount. Its a Hyde mount from cenralhobbies.com.
As for a soft mount you have to make up your mind if you want to shake your airplane or your engine.
I use the best available soft mount. Its a Hyde mount from cenralhobbies.com.
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http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/engi...-glow-how.html
I have couple of gas engines I'm planning to run Gas/Glow. All you really need to get is the plug adapter insert:
http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=1237
I have couple of gas engines I'm planning to run Gas/Glow. All you really need to get is the plug adapter insert:
http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=1237
#12
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#13
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Thanks, Tande. Just ordered two feet of 1/8" ID, 5/16" OD, 3/32" Wall Viton tubing. I'll have to get some Dubro Tygon line now. Is 3/32 size ok for the Tygon? I haven't been able to find any specs on fuel tubing size for a DLE 20.
#14
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Sorry....my quotes apparently were misleading......neoprene & alcohol don't get along over time......if you want to use the best fuel line material for gas application, this is what most of us are using.....especially inside the tank......FWIW
#20
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Pete,
I sell some of the best gas line available. It is polyurethane based similar to some, except it is far more flexible and stays that way for years, inside the tank or out. The typical neoprene from the LHS breaks down after a few weeks. The Tygon from LHS becomes stiff quickly and can be unmanageable.
Viton is excellent for gasoline but is expensive as heck. The gas line I sell has the good features of Viton but not the price tag (compare 4$+ to 75 cents a foot). I also sell plastic fittings to outfit your own tank made from a standard Fiji water bottle or similar juice bottle. For gasoline applications you won't find anything simpler or better.
Contact me direct at my email address
I sell some of the best gas line available. It is polyurethane based similar to some, except it is far more flexible and stays that way for years, inside the tank or out. The typical neoprene from the LHS breaks down after a few weeks. The Tygon from LHS becomes stiff quickly and can be unmanageable.
Viton is excellent for gasoline but is expensive as heck. The gas line I sell has the good features of Viton but not the price tag (compare 4$+ to 75 cents a foot). I also sell plastic fittings to outfit your own tank made from a standard Fiji water bottle or similar juice bottle. For gasoline applications you won't find anything simpler or better.
Contact me direct at my email address
#22
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Pete
I'm new to gas also, this is what I recommend, for gas engines products go to http://www.rcexl.com/ I would highly consider using a welder's glove when starting a gas engine http://www.homedepot.com/s/welders%20glove?NCNI-5
Most of all, have fun and be safe.
I'm new to gas also, this is what I recommend, for gas engines products go to http://www.rcexl.com/ I would highly consider using a welder's glove when starting a gas engine http://www.homedepot.com/s/welders%20glove?NCNI-5
Most of all, have fun and be safe.
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I put a DLE 20 in an Aeroworks Extra 300 .60-.90 and found a XOAR 16x8 prop to be just too fast. The 17x6 allowed it to slow down and was much more manageable. Instead of running a separate ignition battery I use one of these, http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec, gives you a remote ignition kill and allows you to keep the weight down which is really important on these small planes. I never tried a soft mount but the vibration isn’t too bad. Just make sure the firewall is reinforced and that you balance the prop and spinner.
May also want to bring your electric starter with, my DLE20 was a pain to start by hand.
May also want to bring your electric starter with, my DLE20 was a pain to start by hand.
#24
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I put a DLE 20 in an Aeroworks Extra 300 .60-.90 and found a XOAR 16x8 prop to be just too fast. The 17x6 allowed it to slow down and was much more manageable. Instead of running a separate ignition battery I use one of these, http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec, gives you a remote ignition kill and allows you to keep the weight down which is really important on these small planes. I never tried a soft mount but the vibration isn’t too bad. Just make sure the firewall is reinforced and that you balance the prop and spinner.
May also want to bring your electric starter with, my DLE20 was a pain to start by hand.
May also want to bring your electric starter with, my DLE20 was a pain to start by hand.
#25
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Hi,
I have a DLE32 in a 1/4scale Airsail Auster. Look at how you mount the carb. I've turned mine over so that the pump side (assuming the 20 has a Walbro-type carb) is on top. That way I can get at the pump diaphragm through a hatch on top of the cowling, and take it out to soak in gasoline overnight if the engine has been standing for a week or so. My planes are in a heated hangar (aka a laundry room!) and the gas evaporates, the diaphragm dries out and then won't suck gas from the tank. This is a common gasser problem, but easily fixed if you've set up the carb orientation so that you can get at it. Alternatively, slacken the pump cover screw a bit and blow into a tank fill line to force gas into the pump side of the carb. Tighten screw, leave overnight and next day the pump will draw and the engine will start. Simples.
The DLE32 is a very good engine. It puts out black oily crud at first, but now run in is very clean. I bet the 20 is as good.
I have a DLE32 in a 1/4scale Airsail Auster. Look at how you mount the carb. I've turned mine over so that the pump side (assuming the 20 has a Walbro-type carb) is on top. That way I can get at the pump diaphragm through a hatch on top of the cowling, and take it out to soak in gasoline overnight if the engine has been standing for a week or so. My planes are in a heated hangar (aka a laundry room!) and the gas evaporates, the diaphragm dries out and then won't suck gas from the tank. This is a common gasser problem, but easily fixed if you've set up the carb orientation so that you can get at it. Alternatively, slacken the pump cover screw a bit and blow into a tank fill line to force gas into the pump side of the carb. Tighten screw, leave overnight and next day the pump will draw and the engine will start. Simples.
The DLE32 is a very good engine. It puts out black oily crud at first, but now run in is very clean. I bet the 20 is as good.