New to gas, considering DLE20
#54
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Depends on the gasoline you use. At some places in the country, 100% gas is available (without the oxygenating chemicals like ethanol). This stuff is stable long term.
At some places (like mine here in New Jersey) you are hard pressed to find 100% gasoline. The regular or premium car gas available tends to break down in a few weeks.
I use AVGAS for this reason and another key reason for me....Avgas smells great and doesn't stink the whole house. BTW- AVGAS works great in our small gassies and its stability is measured in years not weeks.
It's less convenient to purchase tho because you usually need to go to your small muni airport to buy it. It's trivial for me since I have several munis close and even a couple regional airports within 20 miles of my house.
At some places (like mine here in New Jersey) you are hard pressed to find 100% gasoline. The regular or premium car gas available tends to break down in a few weeks.
I use AVGAS for this reason and another key reason for me....Avgas smells great and doesn't stink the whole house. BTW- AVGAS works great in our small gassies and its stability is measured in years not weeks.
It's less convenient to purchase tho because you usually need to go to your small muni airport to buy it. It's trivial for me since I have several munis close and even a couple regional airports within 20 miles of my house.
#57
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Do you guys use two servos for the engine, one for throttle and one for choke? I can't see where I'd have enough room in the fuse to put three separate servos. (Throttle, choke, rudder.) And I don't think my 6 channel Spektrum has any open ports!
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Hello all. I've read a lot of threads here on gas engines, and I want to make sure I'm on the right track. Just bought a Phoenix Models Extra 330s .60-.90. I have a Saito 100 I was going to put on it, but I have the itch to go to a gas engine, and the DLE20 looks like a good match.
The problem is I've always been a glow engine guy, so I know what there is to know. I have compiled a small list of stuff I'll need to get based on the threads here, and I was hoping to get some feedback.
Some brown DuBro fuel tubing
A few clunks and fuel filters
The NGC spark plug for the DLE20
2 stroke oil
New 16x8 prop (Might want a 3-blade, haven't decided)
I already have batteries for the ignition
Am I missing anything? Thanks for all the great info so far!
The problem is I've always been a glow engine guy, so I know what there is to know. I have compiled a small list of stuff I'll need to get based on the threads here, and I was hoping to get some feedback.
Some brown DuBro fuel tubing
A few clunks and fuel filters
The NGC spark plug for the DLE20
2 stroke oil
New 16x8 prop (Might want a 3-blade, haven't decided)
I already have batteries for the ignition
Am I missing anything? Thanks for all the great info so far!
Last edited by Skinny Bob; 08-01-2014 at 11:45 AM.
#59
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On some engines it's a little tricky, but you can mount a push rod to the choke and operate it with the cowling on. It may need a bracket or two, but it's a good option.
Unless you want to be able to shut the engine off via choke servo, the choke is only used to draw fuel to start the engine.
It won't run with the choke closed
Unless you want to be able to shut the engine off via choke servo, the choke is only used to draw fuel to start the engine.
It won't run with the choke closed
#60
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So you keep the choke closed, turn a few times, then open the choke to start it? I mean I'm sure I can look all this stuff up, especially in the manual, but first hand experience never hurts.
#61
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I am running a cable to a hatch on the side of my plane for the choke. You can run this cable anywhere you like, but I prefer a cable to a solid piece of music wire. It would seem the most popular method is to run this music wire pushrod forward, but this does not work well with the DLE 20. I solder a blind nut on the end of my cable, for something to grip on to. On a model this small, I would not put a servo on the choke, although I love that set up on my DLE 55.
Here is my starting procedure: Close choke, Full throttle, Rock prop spinner back and forth 10-15 time to get fuel drawn up, ignition ON, flip prop until it fires (it will die quickly), open choke, close throttle to high idle, flip again. Should be running within 5 flips. After this, it should start first flip most of the day, unless it sits a long time between flights.
#62
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You'll find it easy to start this engine. A few flips with closed choke, ignition on and a few more flips until it fires and then you can open it and it should start right up.
Most people never have any problems with interference, but it's a good idea not to use any metal push rods near the engine and ignition box.
At first start it might take some time to get fuel into the engine, an electric starter helps a lot until you got the needle settings figured out. Once set, you don't need to touch them for the rest of the season or longer
Most people never have any problems with interference, but it's a good idea not to use any metal push rods near the engine and ignition box.
At first start it might take some time to get fuel into the engine, an electric starter helps a lot until you got the needle settings figured out. Once set, you don't need to touch them for the rest of the season or longer
#64
Will Castor oil mix with Gasoline? When as a boy I mixed my own fuel for diesel engines (ether, kerosene, castor oil) if you mixed the kerosene and castor oil together it would not go into solution until ether was added then it was all OK.
Also on a different note if you read the small print on two stroke oil containers it "says" it contains a fuel stabilizer.
Also on a different note if you read the small print on two stroke oil containers it "says" it contains a fuel stabilizer.
#65
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Will Castor oil mix with Gasoline? When as a boy I mixed my own fuel for diesel engines (ether, kerosene, castor oil) if you mixed the kerosene and castor oil together it would not go into solution until ether was added then it was all OK.
Also on a different note if you read the small print on two stroke oil containers it "says" it contains a fuel stabilizer.
Also on a different note if you read the small print on two stroke oil containers it "says" it contains a fuel stabilizer.
#66
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+1 there are lengthy discussions about 2 stroke oil on here. It pays off to spend some extra money to get a high quality oil.
A few years ago I bought a used 4 stroke engine from someone who used lots of castor oil. When I took it apart, residue was everywhere and about to plug up some of the lubrication channels. So I use a low percentage castor and synthetic oil mix on my glow engines and they run great and you could not find any wear on them.
Imo there is no benefit in using castor oil in a 2 stroke gasser.
A few years ago I bought a used 4 stroke engine from someone who used lots of castor oil. When I took it apart, residue was everywhere and about to plug up some of the lubrication channels. So I use a low percentage castor and synthetic oil mix on my glow engines and they run great and you could not find any wear on them.
Imo there is no benefit in using castor oil in a 2 stroke gasser.
#67
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+1 there are lengthy discussions about 2 stroke oil on here. It pays off to spend some extra money to get a high quality oil.
A few years ago I bought a used 4 stroke engine from someone who used lots of castor oil. When I took it apart, residue was everywhere and about to plug up some of the lubrication channels. So I use a low percentage castor and synthetic oil mix on my glow engines and they run great and you could not find any wear on them.
Imo there is no benefit in using castor oil in a 2 stroke gasser.
A few years ago I bought a used 4 stroke engine from someone who used lots of castor oil. When I took it apart, residue was everywhere and about to plug up some of the lubrication channels. So I use a low percentage castor and synthetic oil mix on my glow engines and they run great and you could not find any wear on them.
Imo there is no benefit in using castor oil in a 2 stroke gasser.
Remember, get the thing tuned and fly it. Gassers are not to be broken in on the ground as they get hot without the airflow. If you need to make adjustments, you need to go by how they are reacting in the air.
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On some engines it's a little tricky, but you can mount a push rod to the choke and operate it with the cowling on. It may need a bracket or two, but it's a good option.
Unless you want to be able to shut the engine off via choke servo, the choke is only used to draw fuel to start the engine.
It won't run with the choke closed
Unless you want to be able to shut the engine off via choke servo, the choke is only used to draw fuel to start the engine.
It won't run with the choke closed
#69
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Another question. On my phoenix models Extra 330, the firewall is already drilled so that the engine mount will attach to it diagonally. I've always had my engines upside down. Is that going to be a problem with a DLE 20? People have talked about attaching the carb upside down so now I'm lost. I've learned so much over the past few days that my brain isn't processing this.
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Another question. On my phoenix models Extra 330, the firewall is already drilled so that the engine mount will attach to it diagonally. I've always had my engines upside down. Is that going to be a problem with a DLE 20? People have talked about attaching the carb upside down so now I'm lost. I've learned so much over the past few days that my brain isn't processing this.
#73
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Don't over think it. Mount the engine at the best angle dictated by the structure and the cowl. During the process of flight it will see every conceivable attitude. The engine doesn't have to be straight up and down or left and right. Fit the engine to the airframe, not the other way around.
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If the answer is that it would facilitate hooking up the throttle linkage, then by all means go ahead and flip the carb. Otherwise, leave it alone.
The carb is secured to the engine with two bolts, remove these and flip the carb making sure that the pulse ports are lined up and unobstructed. Replace the bolts and you're good to go. Do not damage the gaskets in the process, otherwise you will have to replace them. Damaged gaskets will result in air leaks which will cause you no end of grief.
#75
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I'll wait until I am ready to mount the engine and see if it requires flipping the carb.
I fiddled led with it last night. The motor mounts that came with the ARF are too short to fit the engine, and the only other mounts I have would hit the triangle stock that's reinforcing the firewall unless I cut some of either the triangle stock or engine mount away. That's to fit it diagonally as per the instructions. Otherwise I'd have to fill in those holes and drill new ones. The blind nuts are epoxied in and would be a real pain to get out, not to mention the limited space to work in there.
Thoughts?
I fiddled led with it last night. The motor mounts that came with the ARF are too short to fit the engine, and the only other mounts I have would hit the triangle stock that's reinforcing the firewall unless I cut some of either the triangle stock or engine mount away. That's to fit it diagonally as per the instructions. Otherwise I'd have to fill in those holes and drill new ones. The blind nuts are epoxied in and would be a real pain to get out, not to mention the limited space to work in there.
Thoughts?