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  1. #1
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Ignition question

    Question, are these electronic ignitions generally all the same? The reason I ask is I have a 46CC Brillelli with a CH ignition that I suspect is on it's way out. I have a spare ignition from a DLE 20 that I'd like to try and see if the problem is still there. The problem I'm having it that when I start the engine and keep the idle low, every thing is fine. But as soon as I push the left stick up, all the control surfaces start going nuts. Looks to me like a lot of RF noise. Will the DLE ignition run the Brillelli?

    http://youtu.be/Paa0bt-tgL8
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  2. #2

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    Check your spark plug and make sure it has a register spark plug, There should be a R in the model number.

    If you engine has fixed timing the DLE will work if you use a CM6 plug in the engine. The Brillelli has 14mm plug threads so you will have to use a 14mm to 10mm adapter to use the CM6 plug.

    Milton
    Contact Milton@rcextremepower.net
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  3. #3
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Good point. I didn't even think of them being different thread sizes. The plug that's in it is a NGK BPMR6F. I'm assuming the R is for resistor?
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  4. #4

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    Yes that is a register plug, So there is something else causing the RF, Make sure you have a good ground and the plug cap is completely down on the spark plug.

    Milton
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  5. #5
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Will do. Is there any minimum distance that the ignition should be from a servo? My throttle servo is only at best 1 1/2 inches away. BTW, thanks for taking the time to help.
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    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  6. #6

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    I would not run it that close, I am guessing you do not have a shielded plug cap, Also could have a crack in the porcelain on the plug.

    Also make sure you do not use a metal connector with a medal rod to to the carb.


    Milton
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  7. #7

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    Just looked at the picture you posted and throttle linkage looks ok,

    Looks like from the picture you have throttle coupling advance on the engine and if so for you to use a ignition that is not fixed timing you have to look the at 28 Deg before top dead ceneter
    Contact Milton@rcextremepower.net
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  8. #8
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    I'll move the ignition. The linkage has nylon clevis on one end and a nylon ( I think) ball link at the carb end. Is there a better set up for that? I'll get a new plug first and see if it helps before replacing the ignition.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  9. #9
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAzzMaxx View Post
    Just looked at the picture you posted and throttle linkage looks ok,

    Looks like from the picture you have throttle coupling advance on the engine and if so for you to use a ignition that is not fixed timing you have to look the at 28 Deg before top dead ceneter
    I was following along just fine till this. Lol. Could you explain? Sorry, still learning.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  10. #10

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    Looks like there is a rod going from the carb to the front of the engine that rotates a wheel to advance the timing, Can not tell for sure in the picture, If so you can not use a auto advance with the engine without locking the wheel to set the timing at 28 digress before top dead center.

    Milton
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  11. #11
    av8tor1977's Avatar
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    Well, conventional wisdom (and old recommendations from the radio mfg.'s) states a minimum of 12 inches, but in most modern radio installations that rarely happens. Certainly the grounding is critical as mentioned, and a resistor plug which you say you have. If you are running a 72 mhz system, you just might not be able to get away with having that throttle servo where it is so close to the ignition box and spark plug wire. A 2.4 gig radio system would probably be ok with it. Another thought, you could also try changing that throttle servo. Check the shielding on the spark plug wire, it's ground connection, and go from there.... For sure don't get frustrated and fly it unless it is perfect with no glitches on the range test at all.

    AV8TOR
    If it is not SCARY, it is NO WHERE NEAR powerful enough!!
    All R/C planes have expiration dates---> It's just not printed on them anywhere!

  12. #12
    av8tor1977's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAzzMaxx View Post
    Looks like there is a rod going from the carb to the front of the engine that rotates a wheel to advance the timing, Can not tell for sure in the picture, If so you can not use a auto advance with the engine without locking the wheel to set the timing at 28 digress before top dead center.
    Milton
    If you look close, you can see the sensor mount that is common on Poulan/Brillelli engines at the top of the pic. It goes to the two forward crankcase half screws. It's not mechanical advance. I don't think any of the Brillelli conversions were....

    AV8TOR
    If it is not SCARY, it is NO WHERE NEAR powerful enough!!
    All R/C planes have expiration dates---> It's just not printed on them anywhere!

  13. #13

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    I think what I am seeing is hooked to the choke.

    Milton
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  14. #14
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    The most important aspect of this is out of the picture. Steve, can you post a picture of the plug cap?

  15. #15
    av8tor1977's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
    The most important aspect of this is out of the picture. Steve, can you post a picture of the plug cap?
    It won't tell you anything. The earlier CH Ignitions just had a rubber cap like is on most weedeaters, blowers, chainsaws, etc. From right near the rubber cap, a lead from the shielding exited, and it was to be securely grounded to the engine.

    AV8TOR
    If it is not SCARY, it is NO WHERE NEAR powerful enough!!
    All R/C planes have expiration dates---> It's just not printed on them anywhere!

  16. #16
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    , that is a choke rod your seeing, it has a pick up on top of the engine. When I get home from work I will first move the ignition, and maybe the throttle servo as well. I will also replace the old analog servo with a digital as well as re check my wiring and make sure there is proper spacing between ignition wires and any thing else. The plug cap isn't the old rubber type, it's like the newer ones. I'll post a pic. To me it looks to be ok, but then again if I knew, I wouldn't be here asking questions. One thing I DO know, this bird won't fly until it's straightened out. I have almost two years into building it and I'm not about to stuff it into a black garbage bag now just because I didn't want to wait . Lol. Heck, I won't even taxi it around the yard for fear that the throttle servo will start doing it too. I am confident that with all the help from you guys who know a lot more than me, I will get to the bottom of it. Here's the plug cap.
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    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  17. #17
    Lifer's Avatar
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    On another note, that is a fine looking airplane. It's a Speedster, right?
    AMA #77967/CD/LM

  18. #18
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    Yeps.Rearwin speedster it is.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  19. #19

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    Put the plug cap on the spark plug just like you had it when you was running the engine and post a picture.

    Milton
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  20. #20
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    I'll do that later after work. Thanks.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  21. #21
    av8tor1977's Avatar
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    Those type plug caps are notoriously hard to install and are well known for causing interference if they are not on all the way. When it is properly installed, it will completely cover the hex of the spark plug and pretty much cover the entire spark plug. Push hard and straight. I have had them come improperly assembled too, with a gap at the parting line. Make sure the halves of the plug cap mate properly. If not, carefully undo one of the crimps, push the cap halves securely together, and then re-crimp the holder. I had a problem with this very thing recently as a matter of fact....

    Are you running a 72 mhz radio system or 2.4 gig?

    AV8TOR
    If it is not SCARY, it is NO WHERE NEAR powerful enough!!
    All R/C planes have expiration dates---> It's just not printed on them anywhere!

  22. #22
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    2.4 GHz. Spektrum Dx7S with a AR9000 DSMX receiver. There is a little gap on the parting line. I usually put a hose clamp toake sure the boot stays on
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1

  23. #23
    MTK's Avatar
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    What radio frequency and modulation are you using? Also, what's the radio make? Hopefully it isn't AM and certaily not 27 MHz. Hopefully not an offbrand radio.

    Check the ignition cable for chafed and broken shielding (the braided wire) especially where it enters the plug cap.

    CH is still in business and they should be able to repair the CDI module if it needs repair. At minimum, you may want to send it in for them to at least look at it and see if something has changed.


    EDIT...Good someone was thinking along the same vein as me. The radio doesn't seem to be the culprit in this case....
    Last edited by MTK; 08-11-2014 at 11:12 AM.
    Regards,
    MattK
    (Rcmaster199@aol.com)

  24. #24

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    Read through this whole thread but I am still not clear on whether the new ignition plug cap is the CM-6 size or the one designed to fit the 5/8" BPMR6F plugs. If for the CM-6 it simply will not work on the larger plug and should be replaced with the correct size cap. I assume it is the CM-6 size as the ignition came from a DLE. Also, if from a DLE20 and if it is an older #4 ignition, it would have that horrible advance step that plagued the early DLE20 engines.

  25. #25
    stevegauth30's Avatar
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    No,its the ignition that is sold with the engine.I only asked if an ignition from a dle 20 would work.
    CUB BROTHERHOOD # 151, CORSAIR BROTHERHOOD # 80, CLUB SAITO # 804, WACO BROTHER #242, P-47 BROTHER #98, GLOW HEAD #1


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