Ignition question
#1
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Location: Bristol, CT
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Ignition question
Question, are these electronic ignitions generally all the same? The reason I ask is I have a 46CC Brillelli with a CH ignition that I suspect is on it's way out. I have a spare ignition from a DLE 20 that I'd like to try and see if the problem is still there. The problem I'm having it that when I start the engine and keep the idle low, every thing is fine. But as soon as I push the left stick up, all the control surfaces start going nuts. Looks to me like a lot of RF noise. Will the DLE ignition run the Brillelli?
http://youtu.be/Paa0bt-tgL8
http://youtu.be/Paa0bt-tgL8
#2
Check your spark plug and make sure it has a register spark plug, There should be a R in the model number.
If you engine has fixed timing the DLE will work if you use a CM6 plug in the engine. The Brillelli has 14mm plug threads so you will have to use a 14mm to 10mm adapter to use the CM6 plug.
Milton
If you engine has fixed timing the DLE will work if you use a CM6 plug in the engine. The Brillelli has 14mm plug threads so you will have to use a 14mm to 10mm adapter to use the CM6 plug.
Milton
#5
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Will do. Is there any minimum distance that the ignition should be from a servo? My throttle servo is only at best 1 1/2 inches away. BTW, thanks for taking the time to help.
#6
I would not run it that close, I am guessing you do not have a shielded plug cap, Also could have a crack in the porcelain on the plug.
Also make sure you do not use a metal connector with a medal rod to to the carb.
Milton
Also make sure you do not use a metal connector with a medal rod to to the carb.
Milton
#7
Just looked at the picture you posted and throttle linkage looks ok,
Looks like from the picture you have throttle coupling advance on the engine and if so for you to use a ignition that is not fixed timing you have to look the at 28 Deg before top dead ceneter
Looks like from the picture you have throttle coupling advance on the engine and if so for you to use a ignition that is not fixed timing you have to look the at 28 Deg before top dead ceneter
#8
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I'll move the ignition. The linkage has nylon clevis on one end and a nylon ( I think) ball link at the carb end. Is there a better set up for that? I'll get a new plug first and see if it helps before replacing the ignition.
#9
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I was following along just fine till this. Lol. Could you explain? Sorry, still learning.
#10
Looks like there is a rod going from the carb to the front of the engine that rotates a wheel to advance the timing, Can not tell for sure in the picture, If so you can not use a auto advance with the engine without locking the wheel to set the timing at 28 digress before top dead center.
Milton
Milton
#11
My Feedback: (6)
Well, conventional wisdom (and old recommendations from the radio mfg.'s) states a minimum of 12 inches, but in most modern radio installations that rarely happens. Certainly the grounding is critical as mentioned, and a resistor plug which you say you have. If you are running a 72 mhz system, you just might not be able to get away with having that throttle servo where it is so close to the ignition box and spark plug wire. A 2.4 gig radio system would probably be ok with it. Another thought, you could also try changing that throttle servo. Check the shielding on the spark plug wire, it's ground connection, and go from there.... For sure don't get frustrated and fly it unless it is perfect with no glitches on the range test at all.
AV8TOR
AV8TOR
#12
My Feedback: (6)
Looks like there is a rod going from the carb to the front of the engine that rotates a wheel to advance the timing, Can not tell for sure in the picture, If so you can not use a auto advance with the engine without locking the wheel to set the timing at 28 digress before top dead center.
Milton
Milton
AV8TOR
#16
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, that is a choke rod your seeing, it has a pick up on top of the engine. When I get home from work I will first move the ignition, and maybe the throttle servo as well. I will also replace the old analog servo with a digital as well as re check my wiring and make sure there is proper spacing between ignition wires and any thing else. The plug cap isn't the old rubber type, it's like the newer ones. I'll post a pic. To me it looks to be ok, but then again if I knew, I wouldn't be here asking questions. One thing I DO know, this bird won't fly until it's straightened out. I have almost two years into building it and I'm not about to stuff it into a black garbage bag now just because I didn't want to wait . Lol. Heck, I won't even taxi it around the yard for fear that the throttle servo will start doing it too. I am confident that with all the help from you guys who know a lot more than me, I will get to the bottom of it. Here's the plug cap.
#21
My Feedback: (6)
Those type plug caps are notoriously hard to install and are well known for causing interference if they are not on all the way. When it is properly installed, it will completely cover the hex of the spark plug and pretty much cover the entire spark plug. Push hard and straight. I have had them come improperly assembled too, with a gap at the parting line. Make sure the halves of the plug cap mate properly. If not, carefully undo one of the crimps, push the cap halves securely together, and then re-crimp the holder. I had a problem with this very thing recently as a matter of fact....
Are you running a 72 mhz radio system or 2.4 gig?
AV8TOR
Are you running a 72 mhz radio system or 2.4 gig?
AV8TOR
#23
Senior Member
What radio frequency and modulation are you using? Also, what's the radio make? Hopefully it isn't AM and certaily not 27 MHz. Hopefully not an offbrand radio.
Check the ignition cable for chafed and broken shielding (the braided wire) especially where it enters the plug cap.
CH is still in business and they should be able to repair the CDI module if it needs repair. At minimum, you may want to send it in for them to at least look at it and see if something has changed.
EDIT...Good someone was thinking along the same vein as me. The radio doesn't seem to be the culprit in this case....
Check the ignition cable for chafed and broken shielding (the braided wire) especially where it enters the plug cap.
CH is still in business and they should be able to repair the CDI module if it needs repair. At minimum, you may want to send it in for them to at least look at it and see if something has changed.
EDIT...Good someone was thinking along the same vein as me. The radio doesn't seem to be the culprit in this case....
Last edited by MTK; 08-11-2014 at 08:12 AM.
#24
My Feedback: (19)
Read through this whole thread but I am still not clear on whether the new ignition plug cap is the CM-6 size or the one designed to fit the 5/8" BPMR6F plugs. If for the CM-6 it simply will not work on the larger plug and should be replaced with the correct size cap. I assume it is the CM-6 size as the ignition came from a DLE. Also, if from a DLE20 and if it is an older #4 ignition, it would have that horrible advance step that plagued the early DLE20 engines.