speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Have you flown the engine? Results?

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

Yes I have but the results weren't to good, mainly because the engine was not yet broke in. It was delaying drop to idle time and I dropped the stick to idle position to soon trying to anticipate a good landing speed and the result was a stall with a minor crash. Since then I have been bench running the engine to brake it in. So far I have a gallon of fuel through it and it as started to behave like it should. Don't know if I'll fly it anymore this season. DLE manual says brake in takes 4-5 gallons, hard to believe as that is going to take a long time, a gallon of gas go's a long time. So I'll bench run her some more while my no heat shop is warm enough.

Thanks
Bob

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Bob, 2 things. First, the problem you're describing (called "high idle hang") is telling us you're still too lean on your low speed setting. Not a lot (1/16 -1/4 turn tops!), but you can minimize/eliminate that problem by richening the LS adjustment up a screwdriver blade width at a time until it stops doing that or maybe it'll do that for just a second prior to dropping down.

Second, don't believe anyone that tells you that you need to have gallons of fuel through the engine prior to flying it. That's absolute B.S. Many of us will give the engine a preliminary tune, then go fly (on the second or third tankful?) knowing full well the engine isn't going to be set right. The final tune settings will be set according to what it's doing in the air. Just like dialing it in to deal with the high idle hang issue? Just keep it slightly rich like we were talking about earlier. Let it 4 stroke a little on the level, as long as it will clean up into a 2 stroke when you pull the nose up. If you get it too lean, it's going to quit. Be prepared for that and you'll be fine.

Best of luck, -Al

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

After a short tuning session, if an engine is running well I usually take to the air with less than a tank of fuel through a new engine. I couldn't imagine running an engine on the ground for several gallons of fuel. Especially a small engine that doesn't burn much fuel. Frankly, I don't know where I would go to run the engine that much without driving someone (and myself) completely crazy.

Now as a point of reference .... do you run a new weed whacker, chainsaw or blower for several gallons before you use it? What makes an airplane engine any different? My last new Stihl saw probably ran for all of a minute before it hit wood for the first time.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Sometimes I think some manufactures call for long bench break in just so you can use up half the engines lifespan quickly. LOL.

757jonp

My Feedback: (48)

I had the exact same symptoms on a DLE 20 with the early ignition running an A123 battery. Regulated it down to 5 volts and the high speed misfire went away and stayed away....

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

Al, I have long since solved the issues I had describedto speedracerntrixie, what I told him happened before I messed with the carburetor. It is a long story, when I got the engine I thought there was something wrong with the carb because of the way it ran new out of the box. The first mistake I made was listen to someone on a forum post I read said set the carb needle lever even with the carb body, I thought that meant the carb block surface which I did and of course is wrong which I found out later. The DLE 20 carb is a Walbro WT clone, so I bought their 500-13 gauge and corrected the lever setting. I have ran a gallon of gas through the engine since then and it is behaving like it should. I get a stable idle at 1800 rpm, good transition to WOT, and transition back to idle without any problems. I had thought the rough running was a problem until you told me about 4 cycling, I now understand why this happens and is no longer an issue. My DLE 20 is now ready to pull my revolver 70 with authority.

Thank You Al
Bob
[h=1][/h]

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

Mine ran great right out of the box. I had it under propped.. it was turning 12000 rpm. I had about 20 inutes on when I started flying it. I cant believe the improvement on these mills over the gas motors we had in the 80's.

thailazer

Dirt bikers have conversion kits, so will have to be on the look out for a smaller fuel injection version. I think the 17 dollar price tag of a normally aspirated carb would be out the window!

I have experience with a lot of two stroke dirt bikes and other engines in the past, but have to admit the Tartan Twin is a different animal when it comes to tuning. Idle mixture is very very critical for vibration, and the high speed needle always needs to be on the rich side for a normal run. Still learning and appreciated everyone's posts on this thread.

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

Al, what brand of synthetic 2-cycle oil would you recommend for the DLE 20, or is there much difference in them?

Bob

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I generally don't recommend one over the another. I do like synthetic, but I've nothing against good dino oil either. Bottom line, no loyalty. I buy name brand. Whatever is easy to get and reasonably priced.

So you could put me in the doesn't make a difference category.... as long as it's decent oil.

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

OK, I kinda thought the same. I am going to switch to synthetic next gallon buy. I like what Red Line syn claims, think I will try it if I can find it locally.

Bob

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Like ahicks, I really have no brand loyalty. I currently use Stihl Ultra HP and switched to it from Pennzoil some years ago when that was the trend. No reason really as the Pennzoil was working extremely well for me and was certainly much cheaper than the Stihl. There has been no reason to change from Stihl as it works 100% as advertised and it has a very good reputation. If I had to choose a new oil today it would probably be Red Line simply because it is readily available, is cheaper than Stihl and it enjoys a very good reputation .... just like Stihl and some other oils. Pick one and use enough of it and it will probably perform without any problems.

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

No one in my little town sells Red Line oil, so I settled on AMSOIL Saber but I can't trust the SABER ratio of 100:1 so I will use the 32:1. If anyone has used this oil I would like to hear from them about the ratio they have used and on what engines.

Bob

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Well Skinny Bob, you've asked a question about one of the least favored oils for model engine use. It was once fairly popular as it was recommended by several of the larger engine companies but over time, many users discovered problems. Probably the most common problem was the oil's tendency to produce a very hard carbon, almost a plating inside the cylinder and on the piston. Stuck rings were also common. In short, 100:1 or anything close to that was just not good for the average modeler unless cooling was perfect. Used at higher oil ratios, for example 50:1 or 75:1, the carbon just got thicker and equally hard to remove. And this doesn't even address bearing life, etc.

My only experience with Saber was with a used engine I bought that had been run on that oil. As I do with any used engine, I disassembled it for clean up and inspection. The carbon was all but impossible to remove, the ring was almost stuck and all the bearings were rusty which I have never seen in any gasoline fueled model engine. My quick cleanup ended up requiring all new bearings, a wrist pin, ring, etc.

Based on my one time experience with this oil and what has been extensively written about Saber, I wouldn't use it in anything at any ratio. On the other hand, I have had some experience with Amsoil Dominator which seems to be a fairly good oil and not at all like Saber. Of course all of this is just my limited experience with these products but I would recommend further research on your part in the various model forums.

Red Line is available online from dozens of sources and from quite a few auto parts stores. Even if they don't have it on the shelf they can get it for you. There should be a Stihl dealer not too far from you to go that route. If nothing else, there is nothing at all wrong with Walmart or dozens of other 2 stroke oils if you use enough of it in the mix. Unless you're 100 miles from nowhere, there has to be a decent oil available to you not far from home and certainly not far from the brown truck or post man. I'd use anything before I would use the Saber.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Agreed, I once was on the Amsoil bandwagon that came through town. It ended up costing me a complete rebuild of a DA 150.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I had a case of one of the Amsoils (Interceptor, Dominator, or Saber, don't remember) do a number on the VES valves in the snowmobiles I was running (extensively) not too long ago. This after running Amsoil on and off for 20 years. Whichever one I was using did the carbon thing on these valves like I couldn't believe, causing them to start sticking in half the mileage of what might be considered normal. It's not unusual to have to clean them on occasion but what I encountered was not normal. It was not hard to figure out this stuff was not like anything I had run previously.

Since, not being able to remember which I was using, I don't use any of them, but I will confess to using Amsoil branded as just "Injector" oil on occasion. I wouldn't be scared of that stuff run at the engine manf's recommended ratio in our little guys today.

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

This is becoming quite a learning experience for me, I guess I'll order Red Line from Amazon and pay the shipping, OH well !.

Thanks for the info.
Bob

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

You don't have a local discount auto supply that sells 2 stroke oil that says "approved for used in air cooled motors" somewhere on it?

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

Not discount but,CARQUEST and NAPA. I clerked at a CARQUEST store not long ago and a lot of people used their 2 cycle oil, I could use that. I just wanted to switch to synthetic There are some syn's at these stores, I'll visit them again.

Bob

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

My local CITGO station sells their SUPERGARD 2 cycle semi-synthetic for air cooled engines, anyone have any comments on this oil for or gassers?

Bob

thepamster

One should not have to order oil for these engines. There must be a local chainsaw dealer/service center near you judging by where you live.
Go there, walk in the door, and it should be obvious what is the main brand of oil they sell for 2 stroke lawn care equipment. Buy that, follow the instructions, and go fly.
People make way to much about oil on these forums. These engines don't really care so much about brand names just as long as there is enough oil mixed in with the gas.

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

Homelite is good brand from Home Depot running in a billion over worked chain saws global.

Checklst

OMG....... I thought I was alone thinking like that. Like Pamster says local 2 stroke air cooled oil made for any weed wacker,chain saw, blower.... ect....The engine MFG oil ratio is the only thing you should pay attention to..

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

I looked at many forum posts on the subject, STIHL HP Ultra received a lot of favorable testimonies. I have a STIHL dealer in town and a chain saw takes a lot of abuse, so I decided to go with their oil. I hear what you are saying but when I was braking in my DLE 20 with LawnBoy oil at 30:1 there was a slimy oil mess coming out, which is ok for brake in. I have run a full gallon with that ratio and I hope that is enough. This season is over here, so I am looking at starting next season with a synthetic oil and less crankshaft fuel pooling and a lower than 1890 idle rpm.

Thanks
Bob