slither

That is good to hear, chorner! I have one of these that I plan to try...

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gian...odel-50cc.html

Hope it works well for scale-like flying and aerobatics.

luckymacy

how good is the hardware and instructions and what if anything Has to be done to make the Saito engine length work?

slither

Haven't started it, yet, Macy... hope to begin in about a month's time, or so. Hardware seems decent, but there is a comment or two in that link I posted, which suggest(s) the fasteners for the ball links are sub-standard. (There is a photo of this comparing the two.) I will check that on mine. Overall, it looks to be pretty awesome for the price! And I can tell you that Yong Li is a stand-up guy. I had an issue and he made it right without hassle.

luckymacy

I'm going to be in your area at some point next weekend. Is there a RC club down there active in turbine jets?

Whats the distance from the firewall to the front of the cowl? Is there a built in option to mount the rudder servo in the tail or is there enough material in the rear to do it yourself?

I'm not up on which Chinese company makes what ARF for which different brand names. Is this the same thing as a Goldwing or one sold by chief or redwing?

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Hey guys,

I have this engine in two planes. It has good power for both and I am very happy with it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBgVk6hBrcw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0tCoehxsVY Both Hangar9 and Topflite did great jobs on the kits and the engine fits both nicely. The beaver needs minimal cutouts to get the cylinders to fit.

Rev

slither

Unfortunately, I do not have much of an answer for you on these questions...

No active turbine group of which I am aware. Mississippi Coast Radio Control Modelers - MCRCC.net is the place to go for info, though. New Orleans and Mobile maybe?

The kit is boxed up and in storage... won't be able to get that info until I start.

I do not know the answer to the manufacturer question. However, I would imagine that Yong Li could answer the last two questions quite handily. As I recall, he usually responds to email within a day.

slither

What props are you using, Reverend? Have you tried both props on both planes? What do you notice about the differences?

Reverend

My Feedback: (3)

Slither,

The Beaver has a Biela composite 20x8 threeblade. Mainly because of the lack of ground clearance. The Thunderbolt has a MenzS 22x10.

The P-47's AUW is about 12kg because I have a smoke system and some other optional stuff on board. The 22x10 is perfect. The Beaver has an AUW of 11kg and performs very similar to the P-47 despite the slightly less efficiant threeblade.

rev

slither

Looks good! Seems that they both have good "get-up-n-go."

By the way, you do well threading the needle on that thin little landing strip! The mountain backdrop of your field is spectacular!

luckymacy

Yong did reply that he knew about what other brands are selling the same thing. If it is the same as Goldwing, here's a video with the saito installed in one. Seems like the firewall/cowl work out without much effort. And I'll throw in his build threads for entertainment.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2PTz-mLoqw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7alTn-Ij_M

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjxXxSGFpPI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gE62DzeK-r0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxdEw3ruUyg

slither

I did not realize that the Red Wing kit came from the same factory in China. There may be some slight differences. I do not recall the phenolic root ribs on the tail sections. Will need to check that when I start.

Unfortunately, Tom lost the Yak due to leaving out a wing bolt. Looks like it was a good combo, though!

luckymacy

Here are some pics of the kit as I first opened it up and unpacked it to check for damage and missing items because the top of the box was barely hanging on by a couple of pieces of tape - all the rest of the tape on the box top had split as if someone had cut half of it open to peel the lid up and look inside. However, everything appears to be there and undamaged. The picture of the engine is deceiving as in the real world I think it will fit inside without cutting out for the rocker covers but it's going to be close even if it does fit totally inside. Note there is a hidden location on the left side I took a picture of for a direct rudder servo which will be needed to help offset the extra weight of the heavier saito up front over a DLE or a DA 2 cycle engine. The instructions are on a generic 50 cc model pdf you copy out of the CD. The wing tube and stab tubes fit very nicely, no slop as I think I read some had. There is that G10 type material to cap off the root ribs of the horizontal stabs. For $439 shipped to the door I think it's a really good deal. Just needs some extra tape put on the boxes prior to shipping.

Yes, I know I need to do some cleaning up and organizing. I've got undone projects laying on top of undone projects. Need a lazy rainy day for clean up motivation...

https://lucmac.smugmug.com/Yak-55sp/i-JHPLb4Z

slither

Looks good, Macy! My wing-tube is a bit loose, even with the carbon fibre tube... a little old-fashioned masking tape should fix it up. By the way, he must have changed boxes, as mine came in a double box - inner and outer...

MDavis28

Hi guys, so I finally got my FG-60 all back together. I did my first flight on my P-47 since May on Sunday. I didn't get above 1/2 throttle after take off and the engine temp climbed up to 371*. My sensor is on the back of cylinder no.1. So Sunday evening and Monday morning I made a baffle to fit closely around the FG-60 and tight against the cowling. I flew it again on Monday. It was 95* out and with the new baffling it only got up to 335* with some full throttle action. Still to hot in my book so I took some construction foam and glued it in on the back side of the baffle and left it long so that it would rest against the sides of the cylinders. Also used it to close up a gap on the bottom of the baffling and to make an air dam in front of the exhaust exit hole so it would pull hot air out of the cowling. I flew it today and on long full throttle runs it would only get up to 324*, it was only 90* out but cooling off to 88* by the time I left the park. The only thing left I want to try is to add exhaust header wrap on the exhaust ring. I think this will aid in keeping the heat down in the cowl. Will add pick later. All in all, I'm pretty happy with how well it is cooling. Yesterday I tested to see how hot it would get just sitting on the ground. At idle it got up to 177* and stayed there. It would heat up more as I opened the throttle but would cool back down to 177*. Again I think the header wrap is going to help. Will see soon.
MD

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

MD, did you do a full ground break-in before flying?

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

Keleo exhaust vs stock flex exhaust

Ok I had a keleo exhaust after about 10 flights two of the headers broke off. I e-mailed keleo and was told they would fix it for $65.00, if I sent it in with $65.00. No thanks I am not paying for a repair that should not have happened. Any way I put on the flex pipes and this is what I found. It did not sound as good at idle, but it idles better, transition is great and it picked up 600RPM. So the stock flex pipes work better.

MDavis28

Redford, when I first had the engine I did. Went by the book. However with the cylinder replacement I did not. The engine was getting too hot after 5 min of a full rich setting and keeping the rpm's below 4K at wide open throttle. With cowl off it got up to 380* and was still climbing so I re adjusted to a more normal mixture setting but left it on the rich side and did a 3.5-4 min flight and in flight it was still getting to hot. I can tell the new cylinder is settling in as it needs a re-tune now only after 30 min of flying and about 10-15 min of on ground testing. I am going to go ahead an check all valve settings and lean it out a little. Plus I will put on the header wrap on the exhaust ring while I have the cowl off.

Ok im going to fess up to a theory I have. I believe the prop hub is not designed correctly. What I mean is that the magnets are not placed correctly. No1 and the reset magnets are fine but I think #2 &3 are wrong. I think #2 is firing too early, leading to cylinder failure and #3 is a little late leaving power on the table. I really want to make a new hub using my figures and see how it runs. I am willing to bet it will have a lower idle and more pull thru out the rpm range. Maybe I'll get to making one or have one made.
MD

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

Ok im going to fess up to a theory I have. I believe the prop hub is not designed correctly. What I mean is that the magnets are not placed correctly. No1 and the reset magnets are fine but I think #2 &3 are wrong. I think #2 is firing too early, leading to cylinder failure and #3 is a little late leaving power on the table. I really want to make a new hub using my figures and see how it runs. I am willing to bet it will have a lower idle and more pull thru out the rpm range. Maybe I'll get to making one or have one made.

Put a degree wheel on it and see where it is timed at

MDavis28

I did put a degree wheel on it. I double checked it with the back cover off. From what I can tell no.2 is 17* early and no.3 is 10* late. I figured this by looking at the no.1 cylinder. The magnet is at the pick up and it is 33* before TDC. So I checked this same scenario for each cylinder and measured each compared to its TDC. So no.2 is 50* and no3 is 23*. So in my mind it is causing a pre-detonation condition. Mix that with excessive heat and you have a cracked cylinder. This is just my opinion on my findings.

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

there are two ways you can correctly set timing 1 with a degree wheel and timing light 2 a degree wheel and a tester that tells you when the plug fires. Next time I have my cowl off my Zero I will check the timing and post results. I have checked many singles and have not found even one that is timed right.

SrTelemaster150

I just screw a plug into a metal glow plug wrench (1/4-32 plug) & listen for the spark as the degree wheel passes the pointer. With a grounded shield on the plug lead there is no need to ground the plug on the engine. With larger plugs the metal fixture can be eliminated.

SrTelemaster150

And when you go to replace the flex pipes periodically and frequently, they will cost over $40 each.

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

and where have you seen it discussed that the stock pipes break??????

SrTelemaster150

There are posts all over the forums about flex pipes breaking. I have personally had 2 do just that. If they are not secured < 1 diameter from the ends, they will break.

aquaskiman

My Feedback: (46)

mine are secured at the bottom with the clamp that came with it, then a bracket to the firewall