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Saito FG-60R3

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Old 08-23-2018, 12:07 PM
  #1801  
Warbird AL
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Originally Posted by Jeffryz View Post
With a 4minute warmup to get #1 up to 200f, and 10 minute flights, i recharge about 340mah per run for the ignition batt. It is a 2000mah 2s life.
I also run a pair of 1300mah 2s life batts with voltage regulators and schotkie diodes. They get about 170mah recharge each per flight.
this setup is in a 30% yak and i fly acrobatic and pattern style. It turns 6700rpm static.
Do you recharge your ignition after every flight? For me being a cowled engine makes it a lot of work to take the LiPo out I have to remove the wings... I am wondering how many flights on a full battery for the ignition?
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Old 08-23-2018, 12:39 PM
  #1802  
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No. I fly two or three flights on each charge cycle. I monitor the voltages after each flight and how many mah each battery takes on recharge. (also the cell balance). That gives me the confidence to fly three flights on these batteries/sizes.
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Old 08-23-2018, 06:54 PM
  #1803  
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I woudn't trust the 1300 for more than one flight before I recharge.
https://www.buddyrc.com/high-quality...iver-pack.html
Try these priced right at <$30
While you are at it, order an extension chord to recharge in the plane and you don't have to disassemble the plane.
I recommend the CellPro4 since you only charge through the balance wires.
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Old 08-24-2018, 05:33 AM
  #1804  
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I agree in that 300-350ma per flight sounds about right and is similar to what I get. I use a single high quality 2500 A123 to power everything in both the P47/FG60 and my 3D planes. The 3D planes are way more power hungry than the P47 and still get 3-4 flights before even half the battery capacity is used.
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Old 08-24-2018, 08:46 AM
  #1805  
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Originally Posted by elmshoot View Post
I woudn't trust the 1300 for more than one flight before I recharge.
I use a 2S 1500 LiFe to power the ignition. Three flights uses less than 1/2 the battery capacity.
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Old 08-24-2018, 04:36 PM
  #1806  
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I like the LiFe or A123 batteries because they hold their charge, have high discharge capability, and no fear of charging the batteries while mounted in the plane. Best thing since sliced bread! We're having our Nat;l Model Aviation Day at the field tomorrow. Hope to get a few flights in on the ole piece of junk.... ($200 P47 with a $1000 engine!) LOL
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Old 08-28-2018, 07:41 PM
  #1807  
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Can someone please tell me what temps are you are seeing with a cowling on? I've run the engine in without a cowl but I need to install it now and I would like to see what you guys are getting. I'm sure I'll have to baffle it but I'm not worried about that. Also how are you all reading temperature? I have a temp gun but with the cowl the access is limited, do you run it at wot then kill it and check? I'd imagine that trying to get a temp through a spinning prop would cause an error in the gun. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 08-29-2018, 05:38 AM
  #1808  
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Cowl off yesterday 90f outside, humid. Zoar 22x10 6300 RPM 280's measured with a IR gun all cly within 10F.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:25 AM
  #1809  
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Originally Posted by JLink125 View Post
Can someone please tell me what temps are you are seeing with a cowling on? I've run the engine in without a cowl but I need to install it now and I would like to see what you guys are getting. I'm sure I'll have to baffle it but I'm not worried about that. Also how are you all reading temperature? I have a temp gun but with the cowl the access is limited, do you run it at wot then kill it and check? I'd imagine that trying to get a temp through a spinning prop would cause an error in the gun. Thanks in advance for the help.
Really didn't have time to read through this thread, huh? Try this.... use the "Search this Thread" function above and search on the term "temperature". That should give you about 50 posts that have discussion.

The only way to get good inflight temp data is with a telemetry sensor of some sort.
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:10 PM
  #1810  
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Default Saito FG84R3



I cannot get my Saito to run right. Throttle is wide opened and I can only get up to high 3000rpm. Lean in and lean out and still it does not get to 6000 rpm. When I broke the engine on a bench it was running fine at high and low rpm. Initially, I thought it was because I had the fuel tube too long inside the motor box and the carb pump could not pull the gas. So I shortened the tube and it kinked so no fuel to the engine. So I decided to run the part of he fuel lines outside the box so it will not kink. Yet it still cannot reach optimal high rpm. What am I doing wrong? Please help. Thanks.
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:14 PM
  #1811  
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What are your carb low and high jet settings? Also, when did you last adjust the valves?
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:18 PM
  #1812  
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Check to make sure you've got your ignition wiring on the proper cylinder also.
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:44 PM
  #1813  
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As mentioned by 757jonp, you more than likely have the ignition plug wires connected incorrectly. Viewing the engine from the rear (pilots view) the firing order is 1, 3, 2, see illustration on page 2 of manual in attached PDF.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
SAIEG84R3D-Manual.pdf (2.90 MB, 5 views)
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:27 AM
  #1814  
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Originally Posted by ForcesR View Post
As mentioned by 757jonp, you more than likely have the ignition plug wires connected incorrectly. Viewing the engine from the rear (pilots view) the firing order is 1, 3, 2, see illustration on page 2 of manual in attached PDF.
i think that maybe my issue. Let me recheck. Ill post update of my findings.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:12 AM
  #1815  
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Originally Posted by radfordc View Post
Really didn't have time to read through this thread, huh? Try this.... use the "Search this Thread" function above and search on the term "temperature". That should give you about 50 posts that have discussion.

The only way to get good inflight temp data is with a telemetry sensor of some sort.
Actually I've read this entire thread multiple times and still had the question so that's why I asked. My engine is running fine, thanks for your oh so very helpful reply!
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:49 PM
  #1816  
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I've read this thread several times and decided to pull the trigger and get the Saito 60cc. Engine came in and got all my tools together unboxed and went to work at the kitchen table. First thing I checked was the cylinder screws. They were all tight. I removed one and it had red thread lock on the threads and a washer under the screw. New thread lock and reinstalled. Moved on to the valves. Removed all the rocker covers and checked the clearance on the rockers. Several I couldn't get the feeler guage under. To tight. Reset all valves as recommended. Spark plugs were set at 0.020 and reinstalled. Built a plywood test stand like someone had earlier in this thread and mounted everything up. Mixed Red Line oil 15:1 ratio with 91 ethanol free gas. Installed 22x10 prop. Here we go. Carb was set at 2 turns open on the main and 7 turns on the low. Motor would not stay running. Would die after about 2 seconds. Would burn off the gas in the carb barrel from choking and die. Pulled motor back off of stand and removed carb. Took carb apart and noticed the diaphrams were installed worng from the factory. These things are clear and hard to see. My recommendation to Saito would be to have a blue tint so they can be easy to see and install like the Walbro carbs. Put back together and cranked right up. Ran smooth even with a rich idle. I opened up the main about a 1/4 more turn and ran 24oz of fuel through it. I would increase speed to about half throttle to clear it out and then back to idle every 3 or 4 minutes which was a little high around 1800. I did get it to idle at 1300 to 1400 but preferred 1800 with the rich needle settings. Highest temp noticed was 189 checked with my pyrometer at half throttle. It ran around 160 at 1800rpm. Forgot to mention I installed the Keleo exhaust ring that I ordered when I ordered the motor. Sure does sound good. On another note in my opioion I would recommend to everyone that has this motor to slowly increase the engine speed from a idle to wide open throttle to give the cylinders time to clear out to prevent any hydraulic lock from being loaded up during idle from rich needle settings. Going to build a Top Flite Corsair over the winter months to put this motor in. I will further test and adjust during after flying. Not worried about wide open throttle until I get it in the air. Now I am building a Hangar 9 Carbon Cub with the Saito FG-21. Got this motor to test and run later. Back out to the shop to run some more fuel through the 60. Hope this post helped somebody.

Later Jeff
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Old 09-22-2018, 03:17 PM
  #1817  
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Wire 2 and 3 were switched!

Big thank you. That was it. Shes running good now!

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Old 09-22-2018, 04:10 PM
  #1818  
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Liemtran 75, great to know you got it running. It's common for a few flyers to get # 2 & 3 ignition wires crossed. You sure have a nice smooth throttle transition from idle to full throttle and the exhaust note sounds great too!
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:49 AM
  #1819  
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Jeff,
Good write up. Thank you. My FG 60 was no problem out of the box. I guess I was lucky.
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:57 AM
  #1820  
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Liemtran 75.... Thanks for letting us know that's all it was, sounds just great!
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:48 AM
  #1821  
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Originally Posted by BobH View Post
Jeff,
Good write up. Thank you. My FG 60 was no problem out of the box. I guess I was lucky.
Thanks Bob. I'am not a very good writer so I probably forgot to mention a few things but this is a really nice engine. The only draw back I see is the carb. It is very sensitive to needle settings so a little patience is needed to get it going and find the sweet spot so to speak. I just ordered the carb conversion from Morris Mini Motors in England for the FG-60 which appears to be a walbro carb. Once I get it in and do a little testing I will post a review on my findings. I have bought other conversion kits for my OS twins from Morris Mini Motors in the past and they are great to deal with so anxious to try it out on this motor.

Later
Jeff
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Old 09-23-2018, 11:29 AM
  #1822  
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Originally Posted by 757jonp View Post
Liemtran 75.... Thanks for letting us know that's all it was, sounds just great!
Liemtran 75, I agree with 757jonp, you are the only one in recent memory who has reported back to this forum with your findings concerning insufficient RPMs after others also recommended to check the ignition wires to confirm if they were connected incorrectly. I guess the others who had the same problem as you were to embarrassed or didn't give a crap about letting us know. Everyone makes mistake every now and then and it's nothing to be embarrassed about. Reporting back on the cause of a problem helps everyone who may experience the same problem in the future. Well that's my rant for the day!
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:00 AM
  #1823  
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Originally Posted by stroker280 View Post
Thanks Bob. I'am not a very good writer so I probably forgot to mention a few things but this is a really nice engine. The only draw back I see is the carb. It is very sensitive to needle settings so a little patience is needed to get it going and find the sweet spot so to speak. I just ordered the carb conversion from Morris Mini Motors in England for the FG-60 which appears to be a walbro carb. Once I get it in and do a little testing I will post a review on my findings. I have bought other conversion kits for my OS twins from Morris Mini Motors in the past and they are great to deal with so anxious to try it out on this motor.

Later
Jeff
It will be interesting to follow your experience with the Walbro carb.
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Old 09-24-2018, 08:37 PM
  #1824  
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I know you have spent the money but I find the Saito Carb up to the task. so no need to change the carb IMHO.
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Old 09-25-2018, 04:31 AM
  #1825  
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Originally Posted by elmshoot View Post
I know you have spent the money but I find the Saito Carb up to the task. so no need to change the carb IMHO.
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The one problem with it is there is no choke. I'll never understand why they did it this way.
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