Saito FG-60R3
01-11-2016, 10:51 AM
#351
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: BlenheimMarlborough, NEW ZEALAND
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So, I thought I'd try a couple of different props on my R60. I have been trying to compare my engine tuning/performance with others but it is hard to do when you run different props. Here's what I've got:
1. XOAR wooden 22 x 10 6000 rpm
2. XOAR carbon fibre 22 x 10 6200 rpm
3. APC 22 X 10 6500 RPM
This all on the same day, same fuel, same tuning. I think I am done running this on the bench. Will wait for the airframe, mount the engine and fly it on the carbon fibre prop. Still think I should be getting a little more out of this engine, 6500 rpm on the APC still seems a little low compared to others, but time to move on.
1. XOAR wooden 22 x 10 6000 rpm
2. XOAR carbon fibre 22 x 10 6200 rpm
3. APC 22 X 10 6500 RPM
This all on the same day, same fuel, same tuning. I think I am done running this on the bench. Will wait for the airframe, mount the engine and fly it on the carbon fibre prop. Still think I should be getting a little more out of this engine, 6500 rpm on the APC still seems a little low compared to others, but time to move on.
01-11-2016, 11:30 AM
#353
The other thing that would be interesting to find out, is actual thrust numbers etc. RPM is one thing, but you would need thrust numbers and even a step higher would be maximum airspeed numbers to check how each prop actually behaves and translates to flight. I wonder if the Xoar props are just wider, and provide more thrust & pitch than say a Mejzlik or APC, or if they are less efficient designs and translate to lower RPM and performance numbers etc. Or vice versa...
I think APC props probably deform a bit towards the tip and flatten out the pitch, and hence provide higher RPM? But that's just speculation on my part. I prefer the Mejzlik props over Xoar myself - much better made props.
I really want to find someone who has the Ray English plenum mod on this engine, and see if the ~500+ rpm performance improvement is infact true.
I think APC props probably deform a bit towards the tip and flatten out the pitch, and hence provide higher RPM? But that's just speculation on my part. I prefer the Mejzlik props over Xoar myself - much better made props.
I really want to find someone who has the Ray English plenum mod on this engine, and see if the ~500+ rpm performance improvement is infact true.
01-11-2016, 11:34 AM
#354
You are actually right chorner, the APC obtains higher rpm because of its slender profile near the tips. When I tried to fly the engine at a 35C day, the plane could barely make the first turn at full throttle, despite the fact that the peak rpm on the ground was good and the motor did not overheat (temp sensors). Means that the thinner profile does not pull well in thinner air. Since this is a 4-st with lots of torque, probably a wider chord blade at the tips would fix this kind of thrust deficit...
01-11-2016, 12:23 PM
#355
Senior Member
So, I thought I'd try a couple of different props on my R60. I have been trying to compare my engine tuning/performance with others but it is hard to do when you run different props. Here's what I've got:
1. XOAR wooden 22 x 10 6000 rpm
2. XOAR carbon fibre 22 x 10 6200 rpm
3. APC 22 X 10 6500 RPM
This all on the same day, same fuel, same tuning. I think I am done running this on the bench. Will wait for the airframe, mount the engine and fly it on the carbon fibre prop. Still think I should be getting a little more out of this engine, 6500 rpm on the APC still seems a little low compared to others, but time to move on.
1. XOAR wooden 22 x 10 6000 rpm
2. XOAR carbon fibre 22 x 10 6200 rpm
3. APC 22 X 10 6500 RPM
This all on the same day, same fuel, same tuning. I think I am done running this on the bench. Will wait for the airframe, mount the engine and fly it on the carbon fibre prop. Still think I should be getting a little more out of this engine, 6500 rpm on the APC still seems a little low compared to others, but time to move on.
I've seen 300 RPM or more difference from day to day with the same engine/prop/fuel. I usually have an engine of known performance to run as a benchmark.
You seem to be making the same power as my FA-300TTDP running methanol/15% nitro with CDI which is quite good I would say.
01-13-2016, 02:58 AM
#356
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
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Hey guys,
I have been through the run in procedure (details in the Gas Radial thread), but I have been advised to run a break in additive with the Redline oil I used. Unfortunately, here in Dubai, that sort of thing is as rare as rocking horse p00. So I am going to run it as is. My break in procedure also included mounting the engine upside down for the last tank of fuel in rich state. That gave cyls 2 & 3 the opportunity to run hotter as in normal orientation only the 1 cyl was firing as accurately as it should have.
So, now I am going to mount it into a plane and go through the leaning up process, and then she will fly. For the break in, I used a 20x10 prop and since it was never going to over rev in fully rich mode, I assume that the light load would help minimize load. Now that I am putting it in a plane, I cannot find any 22x10 props locally. Would you recommend a 23x8 as a suitable replacement for now? It is going in a very light Yak-55M el cheapo, so it is not going to need a lot of top speed. It is going to be puttering around with some inverted flight, figure 8's etc. I want it running smoothly and reliably before it goes into a warbird.
I have been through the run in procedure (details in the Gas Radial thread), but I have been advised to run a break in additive with the Redline oil I used. Unfortunately, here in Dubai, that sort of thing is as rare as rocking horse p00. So I am going to run it as is. My break in procedure also included mounting the engine upside down for the last tank of fuel in rich state. That gave cyls 2 & 3 the opportunity to run hotter as in normal orientation only the 1 cyl was firing as accurately as it should have.
So, now I am going to mount it into a plane and go through the leaning up process, and then she will fly. For the break in, I used a 20x10 prop and since it was never going to over rev in fully rich mode, I assume that the light load would help minimize load. Now that I am putting it in a plane, I cannot find any 22x10 props locally. Would you recommend a 23x8 as a suitable replacement for now? It is going in a very light Yak-55M el cheapo, so it is not going to need a lot of top speed. It is going to be puttering around with some inverted flight, figure 8's etc. I want it running smoothly and reliably before it goes into a warbird.
01-13-2016, 03:53 AM
#357
No worries, a 23x8 will be OK. Don't forget, this is a 4stroke with plenty of torque to turn longer props. Also, the absence of load during break in is not always beneficial, in that the increased cylinder pressure (load) helps bed-in the rings much better..
Happy flying,
Hector.
Happy flying,
Hector.
01-13-2016, 04:00 AM
#358
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dubai, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
Posts: 500
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Yeah I suppose so, my thinking was that in the richened condition, it wouldn't develop a lot of power to bed in. My thinking was more along the lines of making sure that there was lube sloshing around in there before I put it under significant load....you make a good point, but once it is leaned off for rich(ish) flying, there will be some load on it with the 23" prop. Appreciate your feedback, have followed your run in experiences a lot in the other thread.
Regards
Regards
01-14-2016, 07:19 AM
#359
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Espanola, NM
Posts: 273
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01-14-2016, 08:30 AM
#360
My Feedback: (3)
My dream of monitoring cylinder temps has come true, I hope! I bought an Eagletree eLogger V4 from Tower Hobbies, along with the on-board LCD panel, and three remote temperature sensors.
I'm going to either JB Weld or use some sort of thermal adhesive to glue the sensors to the area behind the glow plug. Then I'll hook it all up. I should be able to output to the LCD panel in real-time all three cylinder temps.
Plus it logs the temps for 45 minutes I believe so I'll be able to see what went on in the air.
If I want to get crazy then I can buy the transmitter device and receiver and watch the temps from the ground!
Probably a little overkill but it will be a fun device to have. I'll report on how it runs once I hook it up to my test bench and break the FG-60R3 in. I'm just waiting for a day that it is near 40 degrees, because its currently in the single digits here in Wisconsin. I think that breaking in the engine at this temp would cause the engine to never heat up to proper break-in temperature.
Thanks to all of you who replied with the details on break-in. Can't wait to get started!
I'm going to either JB Weld or use some sort of thermal adhesive to glue the sensors to the area behind the glow plug. Then I'll hook it all up. I should be able to output to the LCD panel in real-time all three cylinder temps.
Plus it logs the temps for 45 minutes I believe so I'll be able to see what went on in the air.
If I want to get crazy then I can buy the transmitter device and receiver and watch the temps from the ground!
Probably a little overkill but it will be a fun device to have. I'll report on how it runs once I hook it up to my test bench and break the FG-60R3 in. I'm just waiting for a day that it is near 40 degrees, because its currently in the single digits here in Wisconsin. I think that breaking in the engine at this temp would cause the engine to never heat up to proper break-in temperature.
Thanks to all of you who replied with the details on break-in. Can't wait to get started!
01-14-2016, 09:03 AM
#361
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Espanola, NM
Posts: 273
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My dream of monitoring cylinder temps has come true, I hope! I bought an Eagletree eLogger V4 from Tower Hobbies, along with the on-board LCD panel, and three remote temperature sensors.
I'm going to either JB Weld or use some sort of thermal adhesive to glue the sensors to the area behind the glow plug. Then I'll hook it all up. I should be able to output to the LCD panel in real-time all three cylinder temps.
Plus it logs the temps for 45 minutes I believe so I'll be able to see what went on in the air.
If I want to get crazy then I can buy the transmitter device and receiver and watch the temps from the ground!
Probably a little overkill but it will be a fun device to have. I'll report on how it runs once I hook it up to my test bench and break the FG-60R3 in. I'm just waiting for a day that it is near 40 degrees, because its currently in the single digits here in Wisconsin. I think that breaking in the engine at this temp would cause the engine to never heat up to proper break-in temperature.
Thanks to all of you who replied with the details on break-in. Can't wait to get started!
I'm going to either JB Weld or use some sort of thermal adhesive to glue the sensors to the area behind the glow plug. Then I'll hook it all up. I should be able to output to the LCD panel in real-time all three cylinder temps.
Plus it logs the temps for 45 minutes I believe so I'll be able to see what went on in the air.
If I want to get crazy then I can buy the transmitter device and receiver and watch the temps from the ground!
Probably a little overkill but it will be a fun device to have. I'll report on how it runs once I hook it up to my test bench and break the FG-60R3 in. I'm just waiting for a day that it is near 40 degrees, because its currently in the single digits here in Wisconsin. I think that breaking in the engine at this temp would cause the engine to never heat up to proper break-in temperature.
Thanks to all of you who replied with the details on break-in. Can't wait to get started!
I've been building my test stand the last couple days and I'm ready to start the break-in! I really wanted to be able to monitor the temps of each cylinder like Hector does but the sensor he has costs almost $400 so I was a little bummed! Your post couldn't have come at a better time Is the RC Hobby shop still on the main drag in Waukesha? Used to shop there quite a bit back in the 80s'.
My other favorite shop was Cudahy News and Hobby!
Sure miss flying out at Lakeland and off the ice on Pewaukee
Eh?
Dan
01-14-2016, 10:36 AM
#363
My Feedback: (3)
Yah ABC RC I used to buy stuff there too back in the late 80s and early 90s. They are close down now. Cudahy News and Hobby moved over to Greenfield News and Hobby and that just closed last year. So I buy everything from Tower Hobbies or Horizon now. Yah I was ice fishing on Pewaukee last Winter and I noticed there were guys flying off the ice behind me!
You are right, that fancy meter that the other guy on here has is too expensive and I can't keep it on the plane. So I bought this stuff. I don't know how well its going to work yet, so I'll let everyone know once I have it all setup. Here are the parts I bought:
[TABLE="width: 95%, align: center"]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8032[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems eLogger V4 w/Integrated Connectors[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]59.49 [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP9010[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Power Panel LCD Display[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.49 [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8002[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Micro Temperature Sensor[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]3[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.47 [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Don't know if I will JB Weld the temperature sensors onto the big fin behind the glow plug, or if I will use something like "Arctic Silver Arctic Alumina 5g Thermal Adhesive "
You are right, that fancy meter that the other guy on here has is too expensive and I can't keep it on the plane. So I bought this stuff. I don't know how well its going to work yet, so I'll let everyone know once I have it all setup. Here are the parts I bought:
[TABLE="width: 95%, align: center"]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8032[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems eLogger V4 w/Integrated Connectors[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]59.49 [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP9010[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Power Panel LCD Display[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.49 [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8002[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Micro Temperature Sensor[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]3[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.47 [/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Don't know if I will JB Weld the temperature sensors onto the big fin behind the glow plug, or if I will use something like "Arctic Silver Arctic Alumina 5g Thermal Adhesive "
You da Man Timbers I've been building my test stand the last couple days and I'm ready to start the break-in! I really wanted to be able to monitor the temps of each cylinder like Hector does but the sensor he has costs almost $400 so I was a little bummed! Your post couldn't have come at a better time
Is the RC Hobby shop still on the main drag in Waukesha? Used to shop there quite a bit back in the 80s'.
My other favorite shop was Cudahy News and Hobby!
Sure miss flying out at Lakeland and off the ice on Pewaukee
Eh?
Dan
I've been building my test stand the last couple days and I'm ready to start the break-in! I really wanted to be able to monitor the temps of each cylinder like Hector does but the sensor he has costs almost $400 so I was a little bummed! Your post couldn't have come at a better time Is the RC Hobby shop still on the main drag in Waukesha? Used to shop there quite a bit back in the 80s'.
My other favorite shop was Cudahy News and Hobby!
Sure miss flying out at Lakeland and off the ice on Pewaukee
Eh?
Dan
01-15-2016, 09:03 AM
#364
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Espanola, NM
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yah ABC RC I used to buy stuff there too back in the late 80s and early 90s. They are close down now. Cudahy News and Hobby moved over to Greenfield News and Hobby and that just closed last year. So I buy everything from Tower Hobbies or Horizon now. Yah I was ice fishing on Pewaukee last Winter and I noticed there were guys flying off the ice behind me!
You are right, that fancy meter that the other guy on here has is too expensive and I can't keep it on the plane. So I bought this stuff. I don't know how well its going to work yet, so I'll let everyone know once I have it all setup. Here are the parts I bought:
[TABLE="width: 95%, align: center"]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8032
[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems eLogger V4 w/Integrated Connectors
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1
[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]59.49
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP9010
[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Power Panel LCD Display
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1
[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.49
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8002
[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Micro Temperature Sensor
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]3
[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.47
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Don't know if I will JB Weld the temperature sensors onto the big fin behind the glow plug, or if I will use something like "Arctic Silver Arctic Alumina 5g Thermal Adhesive "
You are right, that fancy meter that the other guy on here has is too expensive and I can't keep it on the plane. So I bought this stuff. I don't know how well its going to work yet, so I'll let everyone know once I have it all setup. Here are the parts I bought:
[TABLE="width: 95%, align: center"]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8032
[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems eLogger V4 w/Integrated Connectors
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1
[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]59.49
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP9010
[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Power Panel LCD Display
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]1
[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.49
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[TD="align: right"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR="bgcolor: #F0F0F0"]
[TD]ETRP8002
[/TD]
[TD] Eagle Tree Systems Micro Temperature Sensor
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]3
[/TD]
[TD="align: right"]25.47
[/TD]
[TD="align: center"][/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Don't know if I will JB Weld the temperature sensors onto the big fin behind the glow plug, or if I will use something like "Arctic Silver Arctic Alumina 5g Thermal Adhesive "
I'm chompin at the bit so will probably run at least one tank thru her while I'm waitin
Dan
01-15-2016, 10:44 AM
#365
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Espanola, NM
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Before I start this engine for the first time, I want to pull the spark plugs and put some Amsoil in the cylinders, oil the valve assms' and shoot some into the breather!
I know 20mls should go in the breather but how much should I put in the cylinders via spark plug hole?
I know 20mls should go in the breather but how much should I put in the cylinders via spark plug hole?
01-15-2016, 10:55 AM
#366
My Feedback: (3)
Sorry to buy up all of the temp sensors, hopefully they come in soon for ya. If you don't want to wait you can always buy one off of Eagletree's website it looks like.
Cool I hope this works out for us! I'm thinking that I will need to secure the temp sensor somehow so it doesn't vibrate too much when the engine is running. I don't want the wires to vibrate out of the sensor part. So I'll have to rig something up when I get my order in.
Ya I'm excited to fire the engine up too. Waiting for some warmer temps here though so the engine can get to proper break-in temp. I'm going to do the same thing, oil the crap out of everything before turning it over.
Cool I hope this works out for us! I'm thinking that I will need to secure the temp sensor somehow so it doesn't vibrate too much when the engine is running. I don't want the wires to vibrate out of the sensor part. So I'll have to rig something up when I get my order in.
Ya I'm excited to fire the engine up too. Waiting for some warmer temps here though so the engine can get to proper break-in temp. I'm going to do the same thing, oil the crap out of everything before turning it over.
01-15-2016, 11:28 AM
#367
I ran another tank of gas through my engine yesterday. I kept the engine at full power for most of the run with some periods idling as well. I think I have the needles just about right...it idles at 1400 and then picks up to full power without hesitation. I'm keeping the top end pretty rich for now. With a Top Flite 22x10 the engine peaked at a little over 6000 and I backed it off to 5800 and it seems to still have plenty of pull for my TF P-47. I'm working on getting the engine installed in the cowl today. There is just barely enough room for the engine to fit and it has to be located in exactly the right spot. If I used a 1/4" prop spacer I could move the engine back and get a bit more clearance in the cowl.
01-15-2016, 11:33 AM
#368
My Feedback: (3)
Do you have the TF P-47 Tarheel Hal version? I think they are the same anyway. Have you figured out how to make the spinner work on the FG-60R3? I looked at mine the other day and it looks like I may have to drill out the center of the spinner to make it deep enough. Maybe it won't work at all.
Did you find that having the prop hub out 172mm from the firewall like the instructions say will not work for you?
Did you find that having the prop hub out 172mm from the firewall like the instructions say will not work for you?
I ran another tank of gas through my engine yesterday. I kept the engine at full power for most of the run with some periods idling as well. I think I have the needles just about right...it idles at 1400 and then picks up to full power without hesitation. I'm keeping the top end pretty rich for now. With a Top Flite 22x10 the engine peaked at a little over 6000 and I backed it off to 5800 and it seems to still have plenty of pull for my TF P-47. I'm working on getting the engine installed in the cowl today. There is just barely enough room for the engine to fit and it has to be located in exactly the right spot. If I used a 1/4" prop spacer I could move the engine back and get a bit more clearance in the cowl.
01-15-2016, 01:57 PM
#369
Mine is a kit, not the ARF. The back of my prop needs to be 7 3/8" from the front of the kit motor mount.
I was able to make the scale spinner work. I had to bore it out about 3/4" deep on a lathe to get it to clear the Saito prop nut. You can drill it out if you have a 5/8" drill bit. A 1/2" isn't large enough to clear the nut.
I was able to make the scale spinner work. I had to bore it out about 3/4" deep on a lathe to get it to clear the Saito prop nut. You can drill it out if you have a 5/8" drill bit. A 1/2" isn't large enough to clear the nut.
01-15-2016, 04:03 PM
#371
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Espanola, NM
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Hi all
Got a lot of info from your thread so I thought I would add some back. A couple of months ago I got a Saito FG-60R3 with a specific project in mind. I am building a T-28 80 inch and wanted a radial to go inside the cowel run great sound great and have scale exhaust and prop. My project led me to a Saito FG60 engine . I then read your thread and decided to get the engine and see if I could solve some of the problems tunning . I have talked with Morris from Morris Mini Mototrs and he agreed to making me a Walbro carb set up and adaptor for this motor. i have now got the motor running with this carb and it is fantastic. tunning is easy with a high and low speed needle ,an idle stop screw and Adaptor that they made me. Pulse is from intake pulse that the adapter provides and works great . After breaking in the motor I am getting very even temps on all cylinders and runs fantastic . with a 22-10 APC prop I get 7000 RPM ,i tried to richen as this is at the high end of the range but all it did was start to run bad . I thought it was going to lift the table I had it tied down to. Hope to post some pictures soon and get this plane in the air it should screem in a 23 LB plane. I am also running a Kelio exhaust ring that we customized with 3 outlets on both sides at the scale outlets for the plane . the sound is perfect for a radial scale plane.
Got a lot of info from your thread so I thought I would add some back. A couple of months ago I got a Saito FG-60R3 with a specific project in mind. I am building a T-28 80 inch and wanted a radial to go inside the cowel run great sound great and have scale exhaust and prop. My project led me to a Saito FG60 engine . I then read your thread and decided to get the engine and see if I could solve some of the problems tunning . I have talked with Morris from Morris Mini Mototrs and he agreed to making me a Walbro carb set up and adaptor for this motor. i have now got the motor running with this carb and it is fantastic. tunning is easy with a high and low speed needle ,an idle stop screw and Adaptor that they made me. Pulse is from intake pulse that the adapter provides and works great . After breaking in the motor I am getting very even temps on all cylinders and runs fantastic . with a 22-10 APC prop I get 7000 RPM ,i tried to richen as this is at the high end of the range but all it did was start to run bad . I thought it was going to lift the table I had it tied down to. Hope to post some pictures soon and get this plane in the air it should screem in a 23 LB plane. I am also running a Kelio exhaust ring that we customized with 3 outlets on both sides at the scale outlets for the plane . the sound is perfect for a radial scale plane.
Dan
01-16-2016, 07:21 AM
#372
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Espanola, NM
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worth a look-see!
https://www.youtube.com/user/173shat...view_as=public
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Morri...29927123734795
And here's a pic for the conversion I ordered:
https://www.youtube.com/user/173shat...view_as=public
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Morri...29927123734795
And here's a pic for the conversion I ordered:
01-17-2016, 02:37 AM
#375
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Berlin, GERMANY
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I had the same problem with the spinner on corsair ended up buying a cheap and cheerful china made one. Worked out really well.