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Old 10-17-2016, 05:07 AM
  #901  
radfordc
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Is the part just a simple plastic tube? If so why not make one. Anyone with a lathe could knock one out in minutes.
Old 10-17-2016, 05:44 AM
  #902  
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Originally Posted by radfordc
Is the part just a simple plastic tube? If so why not make one. Anyone with a lathe could knock one out in minutes.
It is made out of a Phenolic material to dissipate heat
Old 10-17-2016, 10:33 AM
  #903  
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Yeah, well I have to take responsibility for the crash. Let it get too slow, but it did surprise me and my bunch of interested onlookers as it didn't give a hint of instability during the slow circuits I did before attempting the landing. Most didn't think I was much slower than previous approaches.

Cest le vie
Old 10-17-2016, 10:35 AM
  #904  
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"Is the part just a simple plastic tube? If so why not make one. Anyone with a lathe could knock one out in minutes."

Thought about that, might try that yet. I could certainly get a bit of Teflon turned up at work. I guess it might be impervious to fuel and be a reasonable thermal insulator.

Last edited by ALFIEV; 10-17-2016 at 10:38 AM.
Old 10-17-2016, 10:36 AM
  #905  
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"The piece you are talking about in not pressed in... it is held in place by very small allen set screws that are red Loctite in place you have to heat to remove them. Then the piece comes right out."


Ohhh! I'll have to take another look. Never noticed any small allen screws. Must be getting blind in my old age!!!

Last edited by ALFIEV; 10-17-2016 at 10:39 AM.
Old 10-17-2016, 08:13 PM
  #906  
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Even by undoing the grub screw and freeing everything up, that part is likely to crack. I had to take mine out in pieces when I did the walbro conversion.
I have gone back to the saito carb and to get that part I bought Bakelite rod and had someone turn it down for me. I also did some Teflon ones and although they worked, the Teflon needs to be turned down to a slightly larger OD as it is more flexible. The Bakelite works well. I had a drawing with the dimensions, I will try digging it out for you.
Sorry about the plane, it happens to the best and worst of us :-)
Old 10-17-2016, 09:02 PM
  #907  
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Default Carb Tube - Diagram

Here you go....
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:05 PM
  #908  
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BTW, don't waste your time with Horizon, I bought a gasket set and a set of pushrods, and some odds and ends. All in 7 small Saito packets. I got RAPED US$80 to ship it to me in Dubai, the goods cost US$90. I will present my nutsack for them to look at before I ever place another order with them. Got rid of my Spektrum kit for JETI Systems, so that I can escape from HH. The sun has set on that Horizon for me. For saito parts, just mail RCJapan. Reasonable shipping rates and although their website is a bit weird, their service and response is good.
Old 10-18-2016, 10:28 AM
  #909  
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Thanks cathurga, very helpful. Maybe I will try RCJapan in spite of their website, or try to get some Bakelite. Yeah, I just don't get Horizon. They posture as if they are interested in international trade, but clearly they aren't really bothered. No doubt they are good if you live in the US.
Old 10-18-2016, 08:30 PM
  #910  
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Alfie, rcjapan won't have that part, I asked a few months ago. That might have changed now, but I doubt it. That's why I had one made. I found the Bakelite at a building supply joint and it was cheap. Getting someone to turn down such a small part might be the difficult part....
Old 10-19-2016, 10:48 AM
  #911  
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Originally Posted by cathurga
Alfie, rcjapan won't have that part, I asked a few months ago. That might have changed now, but I doubt it. That's why I had one made. I found the Bakelite at a building supply joint and it was cheap. Getting someone to turn down such a small part might be the difficult part....
Wow!!! Am I ever regretting the purchase of this fine Saito product!!. The only outfit that appears to stock them wont sell or ship to me because I don't live in the USA. I have contacted RCJapan and am waiting for an answer. Sounds like that will be a blank as well.
Will start trying to source a suitable material to turn one up.

Unbelievable!!!!
Old 10-19-2016, 11:10 AM
  #912  
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If you can't find what you need "down under" I would be happy to make the part and send to you. Or even act as a go between to buy the whole carb from HH for you
Old 10-19-2016, 11:44 AM
  #913  
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Allie, sorry, what I said might have been misleading. Rcjapan will be able to get you the carb barrel with the tube in it, what they won't get you is just the tube.
Sorry about the confusion, rcjapan will get back to you I'm sure.
Old 10-19-2016, 12:16 PM
  #914  
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Here is your part. Send me your address and I'll get it in the mail. No guarantees that it will work...I didn't have bakelite, so I used nylon. Should be OK?
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:14 PM
  #915  
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Got my engine running properly tonight, tacho is showing 6100-6200rpm with a 3W wood 22x10 after 3 litres of 15:1, still needs very fine tuning with the TF FW190 heavy spinner but I'm really impressed with the ease of starting, lack of vibration and general running of a radial when set up properly

Just a note to add, I'm not a novice with gas/glow but this is my first radial, it scared me at first but after a while I learnt it runs and tunes just like any other gas engine, small adjustments etc, still got a long way to go but I'm getting to know the engine and I'm really happy with it
Old 10-19-2016, 02:55 PM
  #916  
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Originally Posted by radfordc
Here is your part. Send me your address and I'll get it in the mail. No guarantees that it will work...I didn't have bakelite, so I used nylon. Should be OK?
Thanks radfordc, you are very kind to offer this. I have PM'd you my address.
Old 10-20-2016, 02:27 AM
  #917  
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Hello
After a lot of reading and searching i bought the FG-60 to put in my new plane (TF P-47) and despite all these i have read about several problems i think it worth a trying. I understood that the major problem is the difference of the temperatures at the cylinders during breaking in and i solve it by buliding a stand with a metal plate that i can rotate the engine during operation and bring all the cylinders in every position i wanted, also when it came in my hands and before doing anything i put 10ml of oil into throught the breathing nipple and then start to check the valves clearance as i do in every 4 stroke engine that i own. I found two of them to be of the recommended clearance and i set all of them at 0,05mm also one spark plug was of the clearance and i set it to 0,6mm after that i start the engine using 15:1 Red Line 2T Racing oil and i had full suxess!!!!! While i was turning the engine the No1 cylinder which temp was at 95-98c become No2 and No3 become No1 and also the temperatures changing at the cylinders and every time one cylinder come to up position becomes hot and then goes to other positions and the temp get lower..... So i had an engine that all three cylinders during 2 lit of gas become hot and cold for the same period. I will post some photos of the stand and also i have a video showing how i can rotate the engine during operation... After 2 lit i found that the valves of the engine need again to be set correct because some of them now have clearance about 0,09mm to 0,10mm. I am very satisfied antil now and i think that it worth the buying.

Haris.
Old 10-20-2016, 10:33 AM
  #918  
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Originally Posted by aquaskiman
The piece you are talking about in not pressed in... it is held in place by very small allen set screws that are red Loctite in place you have to heat to remove them. Then the piece comes right out.
So I had another look at the rear case for any other set screws I might not have seen. No, there are only the two. One goes through a small support bracket, the other is diametrically opposite. When attempting to remove the broken tube I had both of those screws out and on the table, so the difficulty in removal was not caused by set screws. I do wonder whether the locktite used to secure the set screws might have partially bonded the tube into the rear case.
Old 10-20-2016, 10:59 AM
  #919  
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Here is a short video of the rotating motor stand.

(by mistake there is no sound on video)
https://www.facebook.com/Haris.Gavan...5512258335734/

Haris
Old 10-22-2016, 05:59 AM
  #920  
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Hmm, maybe we need to bolt the crankshaft to the firewall and allow the cylinders to spin,like the WW1 radials.Just kidding
Old 10-22-2016, 12:06 PM
  #921  
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Today, in flight, my engine suddenly starting running very rough and lost all power. I immediately thought, "broken cylinder". I killed the engine and landed. With the cowl on I could see that the engine was not broken so that wasn't the issue. Pulling the cowl showed that the exhaust ring had broken away from all three exhaust header pipes. One of the exhausts was blowing directly on the wire from the timing sensor pickup and had burned through all the insulation allowing the wires to short together.

I sent an email to Keleo and to my surprise about 10 minutes later he called me on the phone to discuss the problem. The first thing I told him was that I had wrapped the exhaust with heat tape and he said that was definitely the problem. The heat tape prevents the aluminum pipes and ring from cooling properly and weakens the metal. He said that repairing the exhaust probably wouldn't work because the aluminum had lost it's strength and would just break again. Since the problem was of my own making I didn't expect him to honor the warranty but he agreed to give me a 50% discount on a new exhaust. This is probably as good as it gets for "customer service".

He asked me to make sure that everyone knows not do anything that prevents air from flowing around the exhaust system.
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Old 10-22-2016, 12:46 PM
  #922  
aquaskiman
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Originally Posted by radfordc
Today, in flight, my engine suddenly starting running very rough and lost all power. I immediately thought, "broken cylinder". I killed the engine and landed. With the cowl on I could see that the engine was not broken so that wasn't the issue. Pulling the cowl showed that the exhaust ring had broken away from all three exhaust header pipes. One of the exhausts was blowing directly on the wire from the timing sensor pickup and had burned through all the insulation allowing the wires to short together.

I sent an email to Keleo and to my surprise about 10 minutes later he called me on the phone to discuss the problem. The first thing I told him was that I had wrapped the exhaust with heat tape and he said that was definitely the problem. The heat tape prevents the aluminum pipes and ring from cooling properly and weakens the metal. He said that repairing the exhaust probably wouldn't work because the aluminum had lost it's strength and would just break again. Since the problem was of my own making I didn't expect him to honor the warranty but he agreed to give me a 50% discount on a new exhaust. This is probably as good as it gets for "customer service".

He asked me to make sure that everyone knows not do anything that prevents air from flowing around the exhaust system.
Mine did the same thing I through it in the trash and used the stock pipes. I picked up 600 rpm and it runs much better.
Old 10-22-2016, 07:34 PM
  #923  
radfordc
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It appears the part damaged by the hot exhaust is only sold as part of a complete electronic ignition system....to the tune of a couple hundred bucks. Anyone have and idea where I might buy just the cable I need? The part is listed as 153-2 in the engine manual.

Otherwise I'll try to repair the cable by cutting out the bad section and soldering the wires.
Old 10-23-2016, 05:40 AM
  #924  
marksp
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Has anyone tried the Saito designed/manufactured titanium exhaust ring?

http://www.saito-mfg.com/parts-files...r-foreign.html

For some reason they only appear available in U.K.
Old 10-23-2016, 06:30 AM
  #925  
radfordc
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Horizon has them: http://www.horizonhobby.com/fg-60r3-...ca-saig60r3171


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